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Also known as the Grand Sport.

A one year special. 1000 were made to honor both the end of the C4 and the original racers, called Grand Sports, fr...
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VOTE, DAMMIT! (We're finally making some progress!)
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Just by voting everyday, I'd brought us from 17th back to 9th. Now I see we've slipped back to 11th. How about a little help here? :angry1:

Posted on: 2007/8/10 22:07
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RE:Corvettes America Show
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I won't be able to make it but it sure looks like it'll be a good one. :thumbright:

Posted on: 2007/8/2 21:32
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RE:Yokohama Tires
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Quote:
Ok fair enough
How about a recommendation based on your experience


No problem. The best handling street tire I've had on my car was the Kumho MX. I found it to be as good, and even more predictable, than the Goodyear F1 Supercar which is another great tire I've tried. And they're much less expensive too, needless to say. The Kumho doesn't have a high wear number, but for your purposes, it'll likely harden with age before you can wear it out. And although rated as a dry and warm weather tire, as long as the tread is still pretty good, it won't be scary should you ever be caught in the rain.

Posted on: 2007/8/2 21:28
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RE:So, have y'all given up on this place?
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Even though this is not a super busy site, the tech info here is great.
C4Guru is a site that is appreciated by many :thumbright:


Me included. That's why I don't understand it. The site is fairly well known over on another (and large) forum that I'm sure we're all familiar with.
That shout box is a waste of band-width IMO. What's the point of that? It's more bother to read than it's worth, so I don't fool with it.

Posted on: 2007/8/1 22:11
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RE:Yokohama Tires
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I have a 90 coupe 77k. Just dropped $2800 to replace head gaskets and assorted other work. It now runs great but tires are the next issue.
I am a weekend driver and put 3000 mile a year on the car. Don't drive in the rain if I can avoid it.
Handling, ride comfort and noise level are my main thing. And, ofcourse price. Also the car tends to sit in the garage more then it's driven. How do I avoid flat spots on the tires??

I'm not going to suggest any tires simply because tire noise is something that I just don't pay attention to. I've had quite a few different kinds of tires on mine and I could tell you a lot of things about any of them, but noise isn't one of them.
They do make some things that you can park on that are supposed to prevent tire flat-spotting in cars that sit. Once again, never been a concern for me. Mine is driven constantly.

Posted on: 2007/8/1 22:05
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So, have y'all given up on this place?
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I check in daily but there's not much going on. It's a good site. I'd sure like to see it take off.

Posted on: 2007/7/29 16:49
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RE:Yokohama Tires
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Which Model of Yokohama Tires did you buy??

Good question. It's hard to offer an opinion by brand only. Also knowing the OPs specific needs and purposes would be required to offer any advice of significance.

Posted on: 2007/7/28 1:55
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RE:help with my 1993
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I don't have a book on early LT1s but knowing that your engine's is of a batchfire design, "quad drivers" sounds like it is a code having to do with that, since batchfire systems fire one bank at a time. "Drivers" is a term associated with the ECM, as in "injector drivers." You definitely need access to a factory service manual.

Posted on: 2007/7/17 3:30
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RE:LT1 350 1996 Chevy
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Bogus is right, pull the plugs. Apparently you're getting coolant in (at least) one cylinder if you've seen white smoke on occasion. But at this point, it doesn't seem to have been enough to cause hydrostatic lock-up. If it had, you'd know it. But from the white smoke and the way you describe that it's pushing coolant out of the expansion tank and even the reservoir, it sounds like a forgone conclusion that compression is leaking past one or more of the fire rings in your head gasket(s) for whatever reason.
BTW, I got your PM and am answering it here. Good luck with this and feel free to let us know if we can be of any further help.

Posted on: 2007/6/20 22:54
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RE:LT1 350 1996 Chevy
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At best it sounds as if you've blown a head gasket. The next step is to pull the heads and see what's wrong. Hopefully a gasket problem will be apparent. But even if it is, have the heads checked for cracks and for being warped. Also have any affected cylinders checked carefully. And of course, we'd assume at this point that the blown gasket is the result of the overheating and not the initial cause. So check the cooling system thoroughly. Sad to say but your friend ain't much of a mechanic if he's going to write off the entire engine before pulling the heads to learn the extent of the problem(s). I'd highly recommend finding someone else to do the work for you if you're unable to do it yourself.

Posted on: 2007/6/18 21:46
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RE:New Member from CO
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What kind of tires are you looking at? You'll likely not find your best deal at a local tire store. Check online with tirerack.com, discounttire.com etc. to find the best deal on whatever you're considering. Tire Rack also has a lot of great info on the tires they sell, technical, reviews and full specs. They're an excellent resource.

Posted on: 2007/6/10 14:23
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RE:shock removal
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No impact gun and yes, the shock turns while I try to loosen the nut.


Sometimes with an impact you can 'outrun' the turning of the shock. An extra large pair of Channel Locks might be able to hold the upper part of the shock so you can break the nut loose too.

Posted on: 2007/6/6 23:17
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RE:New Member from CO
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The Helms is a must, good plan! ZR1s rock, welcome aboard!

Posted on: 2007/6/6 23:11
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RE:shock removal
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I'm going to guess that you don't have an impact wrench. Will it not come loose or is the shock turning with the nut? Anyway at this point, why not cut it? You get new nuts and washers with the shocks so anything that's damaged is going to be replaced, regardless.

Posted on: 2007/6/5 23:00
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RE:Heat Shield for L98 Starter Motor
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This is a legitimate concern. Excessive heat is slow death to a starter and many other things. I'm not sure if it'd work on the L98 starter but on my dinky LT1 starter I used a heat shield for a 5" exhaust pipe from a large diesel truck. They are used on the trucks where a hose or wiring harness may need to pass fairly close to the pipe. They attach to the pipe (or your starter) with one large hose clamp. These shields are just about the length of the starter and work great. I can also still remove the cable and wire from the starter w/o even having to remove the shield. The shield's easily removable too, if need be. Mine is stainless but some truck manufacturers use aluminum ones too. Any truck or truck parts dealer should have them.
Stay away from wrapping headers on a street car. The wrap will trap moisture and rot the pipes. Of course coated headers are always an excellent idea but even then protecting the starter and other things is always a good thing. I also have any wiring, hoses, etc. in that area covered with a flexible, reflective covering.

Posted on: 2007/5/28 19:48
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RE:Melrose LT's with "X"?
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All reports I've read from those who have them have been favorable. They certainly look like a well engineered product to me. I think the entire system is a pretty good deal for the price, for anyone doing exhaust mods from scratch. Simply add the mufflers of your choice and you're done.

Posted on: 2007/5/28 19:26
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Re: exhaust
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any advantage to my 91 l98, stock, to replace the exhaust with a stock one off a lt1?


see ya on the road

Yes, the L98 system is crap. Considering how cheaply the LTx systems can be picked up, you'd be hard pressed to achieve more bang for the buck. If you run across an LT4 system, it already has a crossover. If you use an LT1 system, add an X-pipe or a crossover for maximum benefit.

Posted on: 2007/5/5 2:49
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RE:700r4 (4l60) Lock up info
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Thanks Pete. If not, I've been meaning to wire up a maunual switch for it anyway. But this would be handy for my daily driving since I drive on a lot of winding roads where I live. BTW, what's your take on using a lock-up full on such as when drag racing. Is this hard on the trans if it's beefed?

Posted on: 2007/4/24 22:04
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RE:700r4 (4l60) Lock up info
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I can see where that'd be useful. Does it apply to the 4L60E too, perchance?

Posted on: 2007/4/23 19:17
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RE:Honda Civic inquiry
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I agree, check to see if the manifold can be welded.

Another option, depending on where you live, is to find a used part at a salvage yard. The only risk here, the EPA makes selling used cats illegal. Odd, isn't it?

I donno about "cutting" the cat off. This means someone has to make a manifold.

One last option would be an aftermarket header. Never know... could fix the problem and add 50 hp!

I've had cast welded successfully before. For many cases and in competent hands it can work well. Only thing is, I once lit off a cat while heating at a slip-fit joint to separate it from the header. (It was pretty cool, actually! ) And cast has to be pre-heated before you can weld it.
I've got a friend who owns a junkyard so if he had a used one, I'm sure he'd let me get it.
I thought about a header too. Just what this 10 year old POS needs! If it's cheap enough though, that and a cheap cat might get it done.

Posted on: 2007/4/23 19:13
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Honda Civic inquiry
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My neighbor has a '97 Civic with the base engine. It's got a cracked exhaust manifold. It appears to me that the manifold and a cat are made together as one unit. If so, I assume this is an expensive part to buy. Does anyone know if this is the case? I can't see it real well because of a heat shield that encompasses the portion of this part in question. The real problem is, is that we have plug-in emissions testing here for OBD II cars, as this one is. The crack is causing an occasional code to be thrown for the upstream O2. If the code's present or has recently occurred, the car will not pass come test time for her this summer. I just discovered this today while doing some maintenance on the car so we have some time to work with. Hopefully I can find her one that's reasonably priced. She's a divorced mother of modest means, you know how it goes. Any insight on the matter is greatly appreciated.

Posted on: 2007/4/19 2:21
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RE:Anyone ever heard of Doug Thorley headers for an L98 C4?
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I didn't know Doug Thorley made C4 headers...I checked before I went with Hooker 2151's. Are these Tri-Y by any chance? ...or 4-into-1?

Well they don't anymore. No, they are not tri-Y design.

Quote:
I know the name, don't know their quality.

They are of very high quality. 3/8" flanges, very heavy gauge pipes, etc. The only thing that is not to my preference is that they are nickle-chrome plated. I would much prefer that they were coated or even better, stainless steel.

Posted on: 2005/10/1 15:46
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Anyone ever heard of Doug Thorley headers for an L98 C4?
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They're not made anymore and I don't know how long it's been since they were made, but I recently acquired a set. They have never been used and are of extremely heavy construction. A friend of mine has some EM headers. He said they weigh 10 lbs. a piece. By comparison, these weigh 18 lbs. per. They appear to have longer primaries than any other header I've seen for the C4 with the possible exception of LPEs, which might be close. They also seem to be pretty close to equal length which is also something that most C4 headers I've seen don't offer. Even though I've already got nice headers on my LT1, I'm tempted to give these a try. They have the L98 a.i.r. hookups but I can plug them, I don't use them anyway. I'm just curious if anyone's ever heard of these, used them or knows anymore about them. I thought I knew of every full length header ever made for these cars but I guess I didn't. BTW, they have 1 5/8" primaries which I also like.

Posted on: 2005/9/24 21:09
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