TommyT-Bone wrote:
Intercooler?

Ultraman wrote:
I think on star can track even if the engine is off as long as the battery is hooked up. It has to be outside though.

bam wrote:
Quote:

tjpreul wrote:
Was the pcv hose that connects to the tb full of oil?

No it wasn't, it did have a coating of oil though. The PCV on the LT1 actually attaches to a bung on the intake, the hose looks like a U shape, one part of the U attaches to the PCV valve the other to the intake bung. I don't know where it vents, but it is inside the intake somewhere. Maybe some will chime in who knows more about the PVC and how it works on the LT1 and how it might pull oil into the intake. Would oil coming in the PCV puddle on the closed intake valve? There was oil in the TB though, and in the tube that comes from the valve cover to the TB, for oil to get all the way back to the TB when there should be only vacuum there must mean that pressure in the crank case must of overcome the vacuum from the PCV valve right?

toptechx6 wrote:
LT4 part numbers are 12553510 for the dipstick, the tube is 12551155, those numbers are the same for 94 through 96 LT1.
I have no idea what the difference is between the early LT1's could be something as meaningless as the mounting bracket or even the handle, I think the one on a 96 is yellow?

95vette wrote:
Wonder if the tube and stick from an LT4 would work for you?
If so I can help you out.

bogus wrote:
How many miles? And how much do you drive it?

If it is older, with a lot of miles, and the core is messed up, I would replace or consider getting a new radiator.

bam wrote:
No one has commented on the oil on top of the valves, I am thinking it might be the guides, is there any other way for oil to get there besides that? I am thinking that the new hot cam and raising my rev limiter to 6200rpm was just too much for my motor with 100,000+ on it.

BillH wrote:
Quote:

tjpreul wrote:
The factory set up for balancing is internal/external. Which is internal up front, so then the balancer has a neutral balance. The external for the rear means there is a weight (on the flywheel) to balance it out. If you switch the rear to internal you won't have this weight on the flywheel. It was an extra $150 for the added slugs to make mine an internal. However I left it as external so I didn't have this cost.

It's been said all over the internet that the balancer is neutral,Tyler.

But it's not true. The balancer is weighted at the factory and is not neutral.

bam wrote:
Quote:

flyboy wrote:
Just a thought. Don't know what your budget is. At least you know exactly what you're getting. Warranty, no waiting.
Brand new. Forged crank. GM.
http://www.jegs.com/i/GM-Performance/ ... -1?parentProductId=749884

I think that short block is for the pre LT1 motors, right? I would love to just buy a short block but there aren't any for the LT1, at least from GM.

biggrizzly wrote:
Tyler - you will probably shoot me!!! Especially after packing up and shipping your tach filter.

Apparently just by moving the tack filter away from making contact with the coolant hose and other hot engine parts it has started working properly. I have not seen the needle bounce once since I went in there and moved the harness around and moved the tach filter away from the coolant hose.

Oh well.. I'll hold on to it for a while and see what happens but if you want it back at any time let me know.

biggrizzly wrote:
Quote:

tjpreul wrote:
Check the output voltage on your alternator. A month after I bought my car the tach started jumping, so I bought a filter. Before I installed it I noticed the alternator was charging at 16v. I put on a new alternator and the tach stopped bouncing. I still have the filter in its package, but it is 92-93 only.

94 uses the same part no. as 93. I'm just curious if that is the actual problem or not. Would you be interested in finding a new home for it?

biggrizzly wrote:
Do the 92 and up have a tach filter? I'll have to look that one up. Didn't know we had one

tjpreul wrote:
Here's one that was listed for $6500 last week, but now it is $5500.

Red '93, 6speed, 180k

http://columbiamo.craigslist.org/cto/2524838595.html

Eagle223usa wrote:
My car is getting harder to fire up every time. I put Bosch platinmuns in it last year, Hhmmmm...

BillH wrote:
Tyler, the pic was supposed to be the engine bay.

BillH wrote:
Quote:

LittleBill wrote:
Ok, I am curious why the green? color coordination, better wires? Personal preference?

Green wires have less resistance to electrical flow, hotter spark......

Ah.......that's just Tyler.......his thing is green, in the engine bay.

He'll have to post a pic.

BillH wrote:
Quote:

LittleBill wrote:
2.Bill H. thanks for the parts # and source for the wires. Will be on the Summit website.
3, tjpreul- I am sure I have no clue about your response but will have someone who does guide me through it.
.

When you look at the wires, note that you can get them in different colors.

The routing that TJ is talking about is on the drivers side of the opti. It's easier to pull the belt and the tensioner to get the wires on the opti.
The drivers side is somewhat of a pain because the wires go behing the power steering pump.

istter1 wrote:
What type of Bosch were you using? What NKG are you using now.

Steve

95vette wrote:
Are you sure? They are probably worth more than that for scrap, plus shipping to me would likely cost you more than $25.

BillH wrote:
Quote:

TommyT-Bone wrote:
I prefer to pick them up at discount after the restorer has had their fun. Like kit cars, they cost a fortune to build. It's best to pick it up third hand. IMO

Yea, the key words are "a fortune to build" , this goes double for the project cars.

I prefer to buy a good one to start with. The money's way better spent.

Tyler's example @ $5,500 sounds good but I'll bet big $$$ that you'll put another $5k in it with in 6 months.

Or, do you find a nice 93, second or third owner that keeps it covered in a garage and has all the service records for $10,500 ?

I paid aa couple grand extra for my car, I rarely work on my car, just drive it.

Just sayin'.