CentralCoaster wrote:
Quote:

iCorvette wrote:

I think I will do what you did and file down the arms, I see it easier to do faster and correctly than trying to file/cut/grind down the polys...will try in the morning and this job is WAY too much for me...in over my head.

Yup, that's why I took the aluminum down a bit. I used my bench grinder to get a nice even surface. Wouldn't be a bad idea to pick one up for $60 or so if you don't have one, it'll pay for itself in frustration saved.

Or with a lathe, modifying the bushings might be the way to go if you're squeamish about defiling your car, assuming they cut easily.. you'd only have to do one side if the shoulder is thick enough. Obviously you'd want all the suspension pieces at the shop or whatever to test fit them.

You actually understand how the bushings work, congrats. I found that to be rare when seeking advice on this exact issue. I'd feel bad for you if you hadn't already read all the stuff posted prior. :tongue:

bogus wrote:
I am in Torrance... and have a nearly small scale machine shop in my garage... lathe, vertical mill/drill press and a hydraulic press. If you can get this thing back on the road and down here, we can get the next round fixed easier.

Or, bring the poly bushings down that are currently giving problems, machine them down a bit, plus the other ones.

I am available tomorrow and Sunday.

Tech wrote:
If your PCV system is functioning it should prevent most oil leaks above the oil line from ever showing up due to the slight negative pressure in the crank case. Check your PCV valve to make sure it still sucks.
Tech

biggrizzly wrote:
Not to hijack but to add hopefully...
I installed the '96 Grand Sport Caliper upgrade up front with 13" drilled and slotted rotors a couple of years ago. I installed new Hawk HPS pads front and back a goodridge brake lines. Should I install the DRM brake bias spring?

ouiroc wrote:
i have a 90 l98 had a 160 t stat for years then moved north and needed more heat even with a 185 installed the temp never gets above 140 on the highway oat from 22f to 90f at idle it will warm up and fans kick on.
any thoughts
thanks tim

bogus wrote:
If you have access to a small lathe, anything is possible.

astock165 wrote:

I'm happy to announce that we are now an authorized distributor of the entire Seals-It product line!

This means that we are now offering our C4 rear suspension kits with the rod end boots you'll need for added protection and near zero maintenance.

In addition, we are offering boot only kits for those of you have already purchased our suspension kit(s) and might want to add them.

We'll be integrating the entire Seals-It product line into our online store in the coming weeks and months.

BillH wrote:
Quote:

iCorvette wrote:
are Hawk HPS overrated?( in 5 months time so it seems) .

15k on mine, probably 3/4 pad thickness left. I'll probably get 35-40k out of a set.

bogus wrote:
I wouldn't race it... but for street it will hold up a while longer. Remember, it will eat up your tires.

They are not cheap, but replacing isn't hard. Just needs some tools... a big ass socket and a t-55 torx.

WW7 wrote:
I just found out yesterday these MAF sensors have to be calibrated when there rebuilt. I guess this is where they can differ, a lot...WW

CentralCoaster wrote:
Yeah, there's other rod end kits out there. The unique part of the banskis is you don't need a huge fucking crescent wrench to mess with jam nuts for adjusting them. Those are hard to fish in there without pulling the wheel.

Honestly though I don't adjust my suspension anyways. But hey, I can with just a 1/4" box wrench.

CentralCoaster wrote:
BTW dale, even the steering rack poly bushing from Energy fucked me.

The inner sleeve wasn't long enough so when I tightened the bolt down, it just clamped down on the poly. Of course over time the poly compressed a little, so it loosened up and moved with whatever slop was there between the bolt and sleeve. This made for about a few inches of play right in the center of the wheel... completely annoying.

So I'm left to either pull the rack out again to shave the bushing or rack, or else just keep tightening it every 8 months until the bushing compresses enough to actually allow the bolt to clamp onto the metal sleeve like god intended.

*Sigh*

Dale1990 wrote:
Quote:

iCorvette wrote:

sounds like what was done to the care is classic and basic, handling oriented mods, elaborate on the "flat out don't like it",

does it swerve? bottom? hop? skip? jump? dive? skid? push? tail happy? stiff? soft? twitchy? creak? rattle? squeak? moan? groan? slide? jar?

fwiw, I have VBP 32mm front bars with poly and rear 26mm with poly and this transformed the car.

I am surprised you went the other way first, everything but the bars...

There's quite a few things that I don't like about it. The only car I have to compare it to is an 86 w/ Z51, aftermarket shocks (can't remember the brand) and less than 60k miles. By comparison, the 90 feels very loose and seems to wallow - not unexpected for 180k miles I suppose. It doesn't respond well at all to bumps. The body seems to jump up too far (like it overreacts) then drop back quickly and settle almost immediately - very disconcerting. I could provide a better comparison when I get the 86 back on the road this weekend, hopefully. The poly squeaks but it isn't bad enough to bother me over the rest of the rattles, creaks and buzzes in the car (exhaust is rubbing on the x-brace).

As to the order of mods, I had a diff seal start leaking and it dissolved the rear bushings. Since I also had a ujoint on its way out at the same time I decided to just get the kit and do the whole rear end. When I did the lowering (purely for aesthetics) it was only a few more bolts to get to the front bushings and I already had the shop press.

This isn't really at the top of my fix-it list so I am not planning on working on it anytime soon.

bogus wrote:
You know, at 157k, if you have replaced none of those parts, I would consider doing a full front end refresh.

New ball joints, new bushings, new rack, new tierod ends, new PS hoses... Just do it and it will be done. It's not an expensive fix, just time consuming.

As for the rear, I always will recommend the Banski kit. That thing has redefined the feel of my 92. Love it.

Dale1990 wrote:
Quote:

CentralCoaster wrote:

Dale, lowering on its own should not effect ride quality as long as it's not bottoming out. I would suspect your stock rubber bushings have turned to rocks. This will really stiffen up the suspension. Also if the front wedges and shims aren't setup right the spring can contact the frame.

I don't want to hijack but...

The front and rear control arm bushings on my car are poly - I used the whole kit from Energy Suspension sans the steering rack bushing. Sway bar bushings and endlinks are still OE rubber circa '90. I'm contemplating getting NOS replacement arms from Corvette Recycling for the front and going Banski for the rear. Shocks are new Bilsteins, too. I flat out do not like the way the car handles right now.

I haven't stuck my head under the car to check out the wedges lately but I wouldn't be shocked if they became unglued, too.

CentralCoaster wrote:
I don't understand why anyone would bother with coilovers in back. The only benefit I see is ability to run progressive rate springs. Yet most aftermarket coilovers I've seen don't have that.

The rear spring is a pure cantilever setup, so there isn't any binding like the front one.

Another thing to keep in mind is when going coilover in front you're losing the front springs anti-sway ability, which according to GM engineers makes up something like 25% of the total anti-sway. I think a sway bar with adjustable end lengths would be bitchin on these cars.

Dale1990 wrote:
I lowered my 90 with longer bolts in the rear and trimming of the front rubber mounting pads with wedges. I wish I hadn't. The ride quality suffered, I have problems with speed bumps and the handling on poor roads is significantly worse. Some of that is probably from the poly bushings I also installed, though.

If I were to do it over again I would have just found a matched set of springs, sway bars and shocks and called it a day.