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Abbreviation for the 3rd generation of Corvettes built from 1968-1982....
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   All Posts (Big_John)




Re: 1991 Corvette Syracuse, NY area
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Car is Sold!!!!!

Posted on: 2013/7/25 19:06
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Re: 1991 Corvette Syracuse, NY area
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See this car at Vettes on the Beach in Sylvan Beach this Sunday and make me an offer!

http://syracusecorvetteclub.tripod.co ... atthebeachshow/index.html

Posted on: 2013/7/24 23:17
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Re: 1991 Corvette Syracuse, NY area
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Price drop to $7900.

Posted on: 2013/7/11 12:01
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Re: 1991 Corvette Syracuse, NY area
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More pics.

[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/Big-John/media/Corvette/IMG_2067_zps63eba0d4.jpg.html]Resized Image[/URL]
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/Big-John/media/Corvette/IMG_2056_zps87c9baff.jpg.html]Resized Image[/URL]
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/Big-John/media/Corvette/IMG_2055_zps74da3375.jpg.html]Resized Image[/URL]
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/Big-John/media/Corvette/IMG_2066_zpsfba78ff0.jpg.html]Resized Image[/URL]

And this could be your view from the driver's seat!

[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/Big-John/media/Corvette/IMG_2059_zpsb7179119.jpg.html]Resized Image[/URL]

Posted on: 2013/6/26 9:58
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1991 Corvette Syracuse, NY area
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1991 Corvette. 69K miles, L98 auto. I had the trans rebuilt a couple year ago. FX-3 Suspension, power drivers seat, Alpine deck with Boston Acoustics speakers (I have all the stock Bose radio etc) Red with red interior. Two tops with storage bag, translucent top is just about perfect. Flannel lined California Car Cover. Service manuals and whatever else I got kicking around.

Usual wear on the driver's seat bolster and drivers carpet treshold. Decent Yokahama tires, Hawk brake pads. A few paint chips here and there, but the paint is otherwise pretty good.

This is a really reliable, solid, clean, almost bone stock Corvette that I would drive anywhere tomorrow.

Resized Image
Resized Image

I can take pictures of any part of the car if you're serious. Located in the Syracuse, NY area and for Sale locally for $8300, but I'll entertain any serious offer.


Posted on: 2013/6/22 23:16
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Re: F/S 1991 Corvette near Syracuse, NY
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With the input of my wonderful wife, we have decided to keep the car.

Many thanks to those people on this and other forums that supported my decision not to sell the car to that buyer.

We have too many great memories with this car, and we took this incident as a sign that its not time to let it go.

Posted on: 2010/7/11 1:24
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Re: F/S 1991 Corvette near Syracuse, NY SOLD!!!
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I backed out of the sale. Its a long story, but I decided not to sell the car to this particular buyer. Let's just say I have had too many friends killed by drunks and I'm not going to sell my car to a potential killer.

The car is still for sale to people that appreciate Corvettes and don't have to drive with a drink in their hand.

Posted on: 2010/7/9 11:15
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Re: F/S 1991 Corvette near Syracuse, NY SOLD!!!
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Car is sold.


Edit: I canceled the sale. See below

Posted on: 2010/7/8 18:58
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F/S 1991 Corvette near Syracuse, NY
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1991 Corvette.

Red with red interior. FX-3, L98, 67k miles, auto trans (rebuilt @62K miles) with shift kit, Yokohama tires, Hawk brake pads, power driver seat. Alpine stereo with Boston Acoustics speakers (stock Bose with speakers etc included). Usual wear on the driver's seat bolster and carpet thresholds. Two tops- painted top and mint translucent top with carrying bag, California flannel lined car cover, bra, service manuals, and whatever else I have kicking around.

I'm the second owner of this car. This is a never molested, never crashed, clean, solid, dependable almost stock Corvette. I would drive this car anywhere.

Car is for sale in the Syracuse, NY area and I'm asking $9,900 or best reasonable offer.

[IMG]http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd172/JohnandSandy/Corvette2smudge.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd172/JohnandSandy/Corvette3smudge.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2010/7/4 2:49
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RE:Hey guys!
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Hey Bender!! :thumbleft: :thumbleft:

Posted on: 2007/2/4 17:00
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RE:BATTERY
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Most likely its the alternator, but you should check all the connections to the alternator and especially check the battery connections. Make sure there is no corrosion there and the terminals are tight. Check the engine grounds too, although you probably would be having other electrical "issues" if the grounds were bad.

Posted on: 2007/2/4 16:21
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RE:4+3 transmission issues
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By not going in to gear, do you mean that the clutch isn't disengaging enough to allow it? Or do you mean the trans won't shift?

If its the clutch, it sounds like there's still some issue with the hydraulics. Perhaps it wasn't bleed correctly. What does the dealer have to say?

Posted on: 2006/11/27 13:59
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RE:front end clunk
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Here's a couple random thoughts.

It doesn't sound like a frozen caliper to me. Clunking noises are signs of something loose. I would check all the bolts on the calipers to make sure that there's no problem there.

Did you retorque the wheels after driving them? I have seen the same symptoms on a car that the wheels were starting to come loose after being taken off and not retorqued after driving.

Posted on: 2006/11/27 13:50
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RE:Who here is going to Carlisle?
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You guys ought to think about splitting that room. The're not cheap, but more important, they are really hard to get.
Just a thought.

Posted on: 2006/7/18 14:46
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RE:Hey!
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Hey Cosmo!!!

How the heck are you?

Posted on: 2006/7/10 18:58
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RE:I need to unhook my ABS
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Geez, I've been meaning to say something since I was working on my ABS.

The sensor for the rear brakes along with the tooth wheel is right where you get at the bolts for the bearings. If you'll remember where we had to get the socket in between the axle shaft and the rear carrier, the sensor is right there. I hope we didn't damage it when we took that bearing apart.

The ABS sensor comes out with a screw and clamp. You'll see it on the back of the upright when the wheel is off. We can check the resistance of the sensors at the rear compartment also.

Sorry, I forgot all about this.

Posted on: 2006/7/7 1:27
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RE:roger made it over
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lol

Posted on: 2006/7/4 23:37
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RE:my 87
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Looks great!! :thumbright:

Posted on: 2006/7/4 16:15
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RE:i really like
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This is much, much better. :thumbright:

Posted on: 2006/7/4 15:28
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RE:Out with the old, in with the new.
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This is a LOT better!! My old eyes thank you! :thumbright:

The whole look of the site is brighter. It gives a more welcoming, less somber appearance. Good job!

Posted on: 2006/7/2 12:33
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RE:Need shifter help & parts
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I haven't found an aftermarket shifter. I have seen the shifter and rods listed on Ebay.

Posted on: 2005/12/3 2:21
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RE:My Christmas present (Cant wait)
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Quote:
An H or X pipe is neither more or less restrictive then the duals. What it does do is equalize exhaust pulses from side to side which allows for better exhaust scavenging from the cylinders and will also reduce some resonance.

I run 2 1/2" true duals with an H pipe. I don't have any major engine mods, but I could sure tell a SOT difference with the exhaust mod.


That is what I meant, I misspoke and I should not have said less restriction with X or H pipes. :D

Posted on: 2005/11/30 1:19
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RE:My Christmas present (Cant wait)
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Quote:
You know Ive learned about this after I did the mod. Theory wise Im not so convinced since its less restrictive with true duals, but Im not a expert ill see how the new mods work with the exhaust.


I can't see how the x-pipe would cause any restriction. That said, what I would do with an existing system like yours is to add an H-pipe. Less noise and less restriction than the duals. The best place to add the crossover can be found by spraying a little regular paint (not high temp) on the pipe past the collector. Where the paint stops burning off is supposed to be the ideal spot for the crossover.

Posted on: 2005/11/27 15:50
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RE:dana 44
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[url]http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1240403&highlight=beam-plate&forum_id=55[/url]

Here ya go.

Posted on: 2005/11/27 13:19
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RE:Exhaust questions
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Quote:
Run 3" collectors back to a 3" X-pipe, then into 3" mufflers. An excellent choice for race mufflers are Twister race mufflers. I've put a few pair on race cars, and have had lots of positive feedback. Details on my website.

Good luck to you!


I didn't see a price on your website for those mufflers. I did a little looking and its got me curious.

I'm still undecided, but I'm leaning towards 3" with an x pipe.
Thanks

Posted on: 2005/11/4 2:15
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Exhaust questions
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I need a few opinions here. I have my '85 Corvette that I'll be using 1 3/4" primary Hooker 2151's with 3" collectors. Yea, I know 1 5/8 is better..what ever, I got a deal on these. Anyway, we'll be using the car for autocross only with no street driving, so no cats will be used.

The rules I have to follow are simple, I have to run mufflers and the exhaust has to end behind the driver. I'll use some Dynomax race mufflers that are basically glass packs. From past experience, the cars are a little quieter with turndowns pointed at the pavement, so I'll use those too ending under the car just past the driver. I'm looking for mid range power and torque here.

So..this brings me to my questions. After the collector, should I run 3" or 2 1/2" pipe to the muffler. Mufflers can be had in 3" BTW. Should I run a X-pipe?

Posted on: 2005/11/2 21:30
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RE:Mini Starters
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I went back and read the rules again. Good news, I can run an aftermarket starter after all.

Posted on: 2005/10/26 16:34
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RE:Torsional Damper
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As far as clearance, its real tight, it should come off. The rental from Autozone will essentially be free, so its worth trying before you have to buy the Chevy prescribed puller or one similar. You will need a puller, no way around it.

Do you have a service manual for this car? If you don't I strongly suggest you invest in one. I think it may really give you some insight on this and other projects. John

Posted on: 2005/10/24 16:53
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RE:Torsional Damper
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You'll have to remove the bolt in the center and use a harmonic balancer puller to get it off. The puller will bolt to the three bolt holes and push against the center. Rent one at Autozone, if you don't want to buy one.

Posted on: 2005/10/24 2:51
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RE:Mini Starters
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Quote:
oh. rules... gee... do you think they would crawl under there and check?

If it's a bottom bolt fitment, I would think it's worth a try.

It looks to me like my LT1 starter would fit on bastet44s 87 L98...


Well, they probably wouldn't. Autocross rules, especially on the local level are more of an honor system than anything. Its like anything else though, if you're competitive, the other racers start to look.

Posted on: 2005/10/23 17:12
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RE:Mini Starters
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To tell the truth, I haven't even been under this car since I bought it last month, so I can't tell you how the starter bolts in. I would assume its from the bottom, like the older SBC's.

I have some rules I have to comply with, I'm autocrossing this car, and they may not allow me to use an aftermarket piece. I can buy at cost at the NAPA store my son works at too, so using a stock replacement may save a couple bucks too.

Posted on: 2005/10/23 16:58
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Mini Starters
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I'm trying to understand the whole mini-starter thing. I have an '85 with the 4+3 trans that I'm putting Hooker Headers on. It looks to me that a smaller starter would be in order. From what I've been able to find out, later models (88?) had a smaller starter. My question is will this later model starter work or do I have to go with an aftermarket unit?

As with everything else on this car, I'm looking for the most bang for the buck.

Thanks in advance, John

Posted on: 2005/10/23 16:37
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