I decided to call Ecklers yesterday and ask if I could speak to a tech to tell me or email me directions as to what pieces go where on this kit. They told me they would need to submit a service ticket and I'd hear back soon.

Here is the entire email I received today:

"This kit goes in the order of: bushing, cushion then spacer."

The kit came with cups, large washers, smaller washers, cushions, bolt and nut.. I called again and also e-mailed back (starting the email with hello and ending with thank you and my name" asking for further clarification. No response

Just thought I'd pass this info along. My suggestion would be to avoid this kit and try one of the kits that the manufacture of it knows how to install.

Yes.... DO NOT follow the instructions with the bronze gear & bushing. Get some background before you start. There is a wealth of knowledge here and a YouTube video that walks you through it all. Had I done that first I would not have run into such a frustrating time. I truly expected to have to buy a rebuilt plus pay the core charge because of disassembling that motor itself. I stayed with it and you all helped me a ton.

This job is extremely easy and almost anyone could successfully do it in about 45-60 min per side. Following the guidance located here and that YouTube video.

BTW - I called Ecklers today about that leaf spring kit which had 14 pieces and no instructions or even a graphic showing what order pieces go in. They had no idea how to do it and I'm suppose to hear from a tech "soon"

Thanks again.

I rebuilt this car with my now 8 year old daughter and we've won several first and second place trophies with it but the time together has been priceless. While I had the car on the jack stands for the past few weeks I taked her through her first oil change. I've had a C5, sold it for a C6 that was too expensive when the economy slowed down. I sold it to take care of my family and as soon as I could I bought something that I'd own and not have to worry about the payment. Truth be told at this point I could have bought another C5 or C6 with what we've spenton this but every dime was worth the togetherness this C4 brought to my family.

Thank to you all the help

All adjusted and better than it ever was. Everything contours with the hood perfectly

Let me just say you people are awesome... Everything is together and works perfect. My biggest mistake was following the instructions that came with it... With the advise from you guys and a decent video I found on YouTube it was really a very easy job.

The driver side headlight cover lined up perfectly without even trying. The passeneger side is close but i would like to fine adjust it. Any tips?

Thanks again

I FOUND IT!!! It is actually quite amazing that I found it because I always try to work very neat and organized constantly cleaning up so I thought it really was gone. I found it about 30 feet from where it was taken apart.

Got the motor itself back together in minuets. I will let you know if it actually all works once its in.

BTW I saw some posts somewhere where people were asking how to hold the brushes in place under the load of the spring while sliding the motor case and shaft in place. I took two pieces of dental floss wrapped each around the wire at the brush. Pulled them back. Slid the housing in place and the simply pulled the floss out. Just thought I'd pass that along if anyone falls into the same issue

Thank you.... Thats what I thought... Time to search the garage floor... If I can't find it any idea where to get one? I have sprongs for watercraft carburetors but they are mor the style of a pen spring

Hi...
So it's now 4:21am here and I have made some progress over the last few hours... I put the passnger side headlight gear upgrade on hold and moved over to the driver side which thanks to suggestion here and a youtube video I saw went MUCH smoother and is back together.

When I did the passenegr side I followed the instructions that were with the upgraded gear and it led me to taking the electric motor itself apart.... Trying to put it back together I had a few issues.

First one of the bolts snapped. Although not pretty I was able to drill it and get a nut and bolt on the broken side so that should be solved.

Second was a small ball bearing that came out and I had know idea where it went. I beleive this bearing goes at the end of the worm gear between it an what looks like the end of a bolt. So I think that issue is solved.

Now here is the last issue/question before I reassemble everything. The two electrical wires go inside the electric motor casing and have the brushes attached to them. One of the brushes has a small spring behind it that keeps tension on the brush to continuesly make contact with the starter shaft. The other brush has no spring behind it so it floats in there and I am not sure if it is suppose to.

Has anyone disassembled one of these or rebuild the electric motor itself to know if this is correct?

I am almst there! Any help, advice, schmatic (I have the service manual and it shows nothing) would be a great help to get this finished up tomorrow.

I just need to know if there is a spring missing or not.

Thank you all again!

Do you know where the small ball bearing goes? Also are both of the motor electrical brushes suppose to have springs behind them/ Only one if mine does and I am not sure if it was never there or got lost when i opened the motor case itself

Thanks

I keep getting this when I click on anything

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Hi again....
Well today hasn't gone well so far...

I attempted to replace the worn headlight motor gear on my 1992 Coupe and one thing after another went wrong. It looks like someone may have already been in to it at some point.

First the gasket for the gear case that they said "Do Not Rip" because it needs to be reused wasn't even there... Next, according to the instructions, I have a type one style which indicated the motor had to be disassembled also. During removal of the two bolts for the motor case one snapped and trying to drill it out so far is failing. A small ball bearing fell out and I'm not sure where that goes. Also when I look at the electrical brushes both were hanging out of their spot but I only found one spring that sat behind the brush. Should there be two springs or did that bearing have something to do with it?

In short I'm now lost... Any directions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Jim

Thanks for all the input..... Since I could not find any installation instructions and the nuts that came with the kit were not the nylon type ( they freely spun up and down the bolt) I decided to reuse the original bolt, nut and cotter pin. I used the smaller washer and bushing provided in the kit and reassembled it. Unfortunately I won't be driving the car for a while due to the weather. All I was able to do was move it about 15 feet forward and back. When I took the driver side apart that was actually in worse shape than the passenger.

Thanks again... Now on to the next project!

There were no instructions and Ecklers said they did not have any tech info.

Do either of these set ups look correct??

I did look at the new nut and it is not a nylon nut. Just a reg nut

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Thanks again.... I had thought about the tension on the spring so I had already put the jack under it to hold it in place....

The kit I got was the Ecklers one but of course no instructions so I was not 100% sure on the placement of all the cups, and the two different size washers... Since I wanted to retain the original ride hieght I thought about just reinstalling with the original bolts that use the cotter pin. I did notice some wear on the original bolt just as you mentioned... Any issue on the new bolt & nut loosening over time?

If I go with all the new piece do you know of any directions as to what order to install the cups and washers in? Is there a benifit to going with this set up if I want to keep the original hieght?

I wanted to check with you guys before I tightened anything up.. From what I can tell I use the small washer on top of the new bushing.

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Thank you.... I'm going to look into these.

Is this as easy as unbolt, remove, replace, rebolt??

Thanks... Everything I've found is to lower the car. Can I set it up at the stock height with this ?

Is it this kit?

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corvet ... -rear-long-1984-1996.html

Do I need to do anything to the front as well or can I just replace the rear?

Thanks

Jim

Hi everyone...
I have the passeneger side rear wheel off my 1992 coupe and noticed a piece of this bushing (the lower one marked in red) was dried and missing. I figured while the wheel is off I would replace it and also check and probably replace the other side as well. Is this something that can be purchased at an auto parts store or something specific I need to special order? Any procedure to replacing it or just remove and replace?

Thanks Jim

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Hi
Just a quick update... I got a call from the shop today with the quote. I might have more detailed info when the assembly comes back but from what I remember they are redyeing the plastic, rewebbing the belt, replacing the factory patches (I think these are the cloth ones on the belt) and replacing the retractor (I think he said there were two). They said the chrome looked excellent and they wouldn't suggest rechroming. Everything shipped back was about $245.00. They said normal turn around is two business days but they were slightly behind so it should be on the way back to me Monday/Tuesday. I will let you know how it looks and post pictures when it arrives

Hi
They actually had the receiver also but it was to significant of a difference between the way it looked compared to my passanger size assembly which is all brand new. As far as function my driver side assembly works 100% but it looks like the door has been closed on it several times, fraid webbing, color is faded almost white and a large number of grease stains. I had it cleaned by a detailing shop last year but it's not much better than before.

Now for the good news... I found a seat belt restoration place that says they can completely redo them including rechroming the chrome pieces. I packaged up the belt assembly and receiver and shipped it off. I will let you all know once I get it back.

Oh well the search for a 1992 beige driver side seat belt continues. Thank you for the pictures and help

Hi
I checked them today and they are completely different...

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Hahaha....

Thanks! I think it is the receiver piece but I'll compare these tomorrow and let you know.

Thank again

Thanks!!!! Any chance of getting a picture of the receiver also? I'm going to compare these to mine and also measure mine in case it's a size difference. My passenger side I got last year was new old stock.

Thanks again I really appreciate this and will definetly let you know what I find

Jim

Hi everyone
Does anyone with a 1995 or 1996 have a picture of the seat belt latch they can post or email me?

I have been looking for a beige driver side seat belt for my 1992 coupe and just located a new in the box belt for a 1995. Thanks to help here I know it will fit but I've been told the latch assembly on the '95/96 coupe is different than the '92. I'm trying to see how different they are to decide if this will look acceptable together.

Thanks to everyone who has helped me with this project since getting the car a few years ago

Jim

Great thanks!

Hi
I've been searching for a new replacement driver side seat belt assembly for my 1992 coupe in beige. I just found a new one in beige for a '95/95 coupe. Am I correct that this should fit a 1992? From the picture of them it looks like the cover at the top of the pillar is black and mine are beige but that looks like the only difference. Does anyone know if this will fit correctly?
Thanks
Jim

Thanks! I raised the back driver side and the front was off the ground a good amount too so I put jack stands on the front and rear.

Do you know what the rear caliper gets torqued to?

Thanks again
Jim

Hi
I'm going to be doing some work on the rear wheel wells and brake rotors. Where is the best spot to place the floor jack and where should the floor jacks be placed?

Thanks
Jim

Thanks everyone...

Bogus I took your advice and used some epoxy and then JB Weld on it and it's working and all back together again. Vetteoz got me the correct part info so I am ordering it to have incase it breaks in the future. The horn did not work from when I bought the car and now i know why..

I have the car up on stands so I can remove all four wheels and give it a good cleaning in the wheel well area. I hope to post some pictures as soon as I finish.

Thanks again...

Hi,
I pulled my steering wheel tonight to replace it with a restored one and found that the sleeve (located on the steering column) that the contact wire for the horn goes to is broken. The sleeve has a channel in it that the horn wire pushes into and then the wire hooks in place under some pressure from a spring to keep electrical contact. Does any one have any idea where I can get this piece or the proper way to disassemble the column at this point?

I removed the C-Clip from the shaft and could feel there is some type of spring behind it so I put the clip back in place while I checked with the experts here..

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Just wanted to give a little feedback.... I decided to have Ecklers do the steering wheel restoration and it arrived today and I have to say it looks and feels awesome. I know they farm the work out but who ever does the actual work did a first rate job. With this last piece it now finishes the interior... Now if I can just get the original one off and the replacement on without breaking anything or setting the air bag off! That's the weekend project. Thanks to everyone

Hey Bogus..
Is this the rebuild kit you were referring to?

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corvet ... ?crosssell=Product_Viewed

Thanks biggrizzly

Hi
It's a 1992 that I've fully restored and replaced everything with the exception of the steering wheel because I wanted to wait until it was off the road for the winter. I did try (great guy there) as they actually supplied me with some brand new hard to find parts but they didn't have anything in new condition.

Hi,
Has anyone used Ecklers or Corvette Central for steering wheel restoration? I know they both have someone else do it for them (not sure if they use the same person). My car is finally in for the winter and I am ready to pull the wheel and send it out

Thanks
Jim

Hey corvetteronw
Did you get your steering wheel back yet? How did it come out?

Hi,
I have two questions I am hoping someone can help with.

First does anyone know of any online instructions for removal and installation of the steering wheel on a 1992 C4?

Second question is does anyone know of a good steering wheel restoration service? Really what I would like is someone who could could make the steering wheel slightly thicker and custom wrap and stitch. If that's not available restoring to original but I'd prefer to match it to the new seat stitching.

Thanks
Jim

Found it... It was the purple ignition wire to the starter exposed and touching a piece of metal. Thanks to everyone for the help. As suggested the test with the meter at the shifter found it

Sorry I was referring to the stereo amps...

And tonight it started all over but the shifter cable did not burn up yet. Drove it today for about 20 min. Shut it off for 5 started it up and drove another 10 and all was fine. Tonight I drove it for 45 min shut it off. When I tried to start it I got the chatter, it turned over & started. Tried again and when you turn the key nothing.

Also cleaned and replaced the ground strap from the bell housing. It was covered in udercoating and fiberglass resin from some work done prior to me getting it. We also added another 2" wide ground strap to the block

Saturdays Update: finished replacing both the negative & positive battery cables today. Both original cables appeared to be fine but we replaced them anyway. The new cables are slightly bigger than the originals. Also replaced the starter motor. I have not had the original starter tested yet but I'm going to take it and see if we can have an amp draw test done on it. I spoke to a GM tech and he said if it's drawing more than 250-300 amps that might be the issue. Reassemled everything and test drove it for 15 min and everything seems ok so far. I did leave all the stereo equipment unhooked for now and am now testing that to make sure everything is ok with it. I did a continuity test from the positive power line (unhooked) to the frame and I'm getting a signal which I shouldn't be. I tested from the connector at the battery to the first block where the line split and when I disconnected from the block to the amps I lose continuity. So that issue (if it is one) is between the spliter and amps. It's possibly pulling a ground from something connected to it

Quick update.. Removed the negative battery cable and it looked perfect. New cable is going in tomorrow anyway because I already bought it. Then going to move on to the positive battery cable (bought that also). Got a new starter also just in case.

Well the third shifter cable is connected. Left the console open hooked up the battery turned the key and as soon as the starter kicked over sparks out of the shifter cable. Amp & capacitor are unhooked

No burn marks on either cable. The first (original) cable was a clean break where the cable meets the metal portion at the bracket for it in the console. The rubber coating was melted but just as if someone held a lighter to it. The grommet looks good and no marks or melting. Nothing in the console is melted. We did find the cig lighter fuse blown but I am thinking one of the strans of the cable hit it as it came undone since it is right next to it. That trans wire you mentioned looks fine as do all the other wires and looms I've looked at. Since you phrased it that way it did sound like a chattering sound.

Thank you to everyone for helping with this.

vis_croceus you are welcome to it. Just let me know where to send it

Starter motor possibly?

hmm you asked "You didn't hear any arcing?"

Possibly the buzzing I heard when I turned the key?

Thank you for all the input here... I'm going to wrap the cable with some heat shield just in case. All the temps and charging voltage seem to be normal. Both new cables I installed are about 1 1/2" - 2" away from the exhaust so it's not laying on it but I don't know if any leak is in the area blowing on it. I think if that was the case I would see some sign of melting in that area though?

Also both times this happened I got in the car which had been off for about 15 min the first time and an hour the second time and when I turned the key the motor did not turn over. Everything lit up but the starter never turned over. The VAT system is bypassed with a resistor. When it happened the second time the first time I started the car that day I did get a strange noise from the starter almost like a loud buzzing but it did turn over and start right up. I actually shut it back off right away and tried to start it again and it did the same thing. The starter not turning over is what confuses me and adds the element of mystery

You mentioned the digital multimeter. Any idea where or how I would test it?

Also all three cables (just installed another) have 2" of clearance to the exhaust. Believe me I want it to be that simple but when I factor in the car not turning over both times, the cable smoking in the console (the car had been off for an hour) and two heavy cables melting at the same spot I'm kind of thinking he is right?

Hi. The stereo has been in for a year and this just started last week. I only think possibly the amps or capacitor because they ran directly to the battery and it seems like it would have to be a big power supply.. I'm totally with you on the heat from the exhaust (this is what I originally thought when the original cable melted and broke last week) but if you look at the pictures this new cable & the original broke and melted at the shifter in the car. The section that bolts to the trans has no damage. And both times this happened I turned the key and the car did not turn over. Then smoke out of console

Thanks.. I found the one that has the strap going just under the master cylinder (next to the battery). I'm not sure if that goes to the belhousing or block but both ends looked good but I cleaned them anyway. I can not locate the other main one though