Seattle had snow a few weeks ago so I decided to see how the 93 did. By the end of the block I was sideways and needed a push to get it pointed back to the garage.
I have heard both good and bad things about corvettes in the snow.
What is the trick to getting them to hook up like they should?
Jeff

I am just looking at his setup. 1lpm injected into the intake air stream. HHO is a different animal than hydrogen. You can't store it. It goes flat and looses it's ability to burn within about four hours.
The formula for water is H2O and it is very stable but anything you can do to make it something other than H2O means that it it is no longer water and most likely a flammable gas of some sort since it is made from hydrogen and oxygen.
Not trying to challenge anyone's education and I would certainly like to find a few explanations for its bizarre behavior.
If you want to have some fun build a generator and make some for yourself. Impress your friends melt a basalt rock with a 1/2" flame or set up an experiment to watch a flame give off a voltage. Main stream science is going to get caught with their pants down on this one.
Jeff

The purpose of making small quantities of HHO is not to run the engine on water. HHO has an amazingly fast flame front and it generates electricity when burned. Putting a small quantity into your engine can act as an accelerant for the remaining gasoline air mixture. Since the fuel is ignited faster you don't need as much spark advance. 5-7 degrees
The engine runs cooler and you waste a lot less power pushing the piston up as the combustion process begins. 20-30 degrees of travel with a lot less pressure on the piston.
There are other challenges to overcome however. The exhaust tends to be very lean and the O2 sensor tends to try to comp your savings right out of existence. A wide band sensor and a little exhaust gas recirculation to pump back in some of those nice long chain hydrocarbons you just built should merit some exceptional mileage.
Jeff

HHO is he coolest gas ever ignored by main stream science. Have you seen the work done by the kid in Idaho?
The thought of a gas that gives off electricity when it burns can really change things. People start to think that you have lost it however if you start to talk about your observations too much!! Keep an open mind and don't make more gas than you can afford to have blow up!
We put some in a zip lock sandwich bag then set it off by melting a hole in the bag with a propane torch. My hair moved at 10 feet away. It also burns so fast that it will tulip and invert the bottom of a water bottle without pushing enough gas out the neck to move the bottle.
Jeff

I have been wondering the same thing. My intent was never to open up the muffler but instead do some surgery through one of the holes like this. Can someone verify the flow path.
[img align=left width=300]http://groups.yahoo.com/group/c4corvette/photos/album/4208344/pic/682730277/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc[/img]

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http://corvetteactioncenter.com/galle ... e/1985-l98-engine/cat/557

Is this close to your engine?
If so the drivers side valve cover has the PCV valve seated in a rubber grommet in it just behind the air pump. it should just pop out. At idle you should be able to feel it sucking. if not replace the PCV valve and check the tube, it connects to manifold vacuum.
The other valve cover has a breather port. It usually connects to the air cleaner side of the throttle body. If you pop it out at idle you should be able to feel a slight suction on the valve cover hole. If blow by gasses are escaping from the hole then either the engine is really tired or the suction side isn't working.
Hope this helps
Tech

It doesn't really matter how much vacuum you have. you just need enough to keep up with the blow by and a little bit more to pull some fresh air through the block to keep the oil from getting too watered down with fuel vapors. My concern was that you might have a little pressure building up in the crank case pushing oil out through the seal.
Tech

If your PCV system is functioning it should prevent most oil leaks above the oil line from ever showing up due to the slight negative pressure in the crank case. Check your PCV valve to make sure it still sucks.
Tech

This is what I purchased. There is one set left.
Thanks for the help
tech

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hawk-H ... 22QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts

My question of the morning.
Are the heavy duty and regular front brake pads the same part number / dimensions on 93? AutoZone and Napa only list one size.
Tech

I polished out the top today. 600 grit wet dry followed by 3M rubbing compound and a power buffer finished with Mcguires plastx polish. I still have a few swirls from the 600 grit but it looks great. Next time I would not drill the small hole to stop the crack and I would apply the Weldon 4 one drop at a time to both sides. I still have a faint trace of the crack on the inside.
The center console is cleaned up and reinstalled.
I took the center pad off and bonded it back together.
When you pay $2200 for a 93 vet you know that the repair list is a long one.
Tech

I started the day by installing 8 fresh 24lb Bosch3's. They cleaned up most of the idle lope, it starts great and My O My it makes some serious power.
Next was the cracked sun roof. Some Weldon 4 and the cracks appear to be repaired. It is spending the night inside though so I won't know how well it holds until it sees the cold.
Finally I replaced the drivers seat motor. It is fairly comfortable now that I can see out the window!!
Tech

I like the Stag classic beef. It has the most recognizable ingredients and not too many fillers. It is easily doctored with some ground beef, browned onion, stewed tomatoes, cumin and other spices to taste.

Sounds like you need to get them synched up so that you can see if they agree at other throttle positions.
Even just idling in the drive way with a single throttle blip should let you know if there is an offset or not. I think the wide band should warm up fairly fast but I would still warm it up first. Also one data set may have a lot more smoothing / averaging than the other. If you running on the original narrow band its job is to see how fast it can switch between rich and lean so a fast sampling sensor will pick this up but a slow well averaged signal will just give you a nice curve that is easy to view and understand.
What is your impression of the LM2?
Tech

Mine is just a hair line crack not wide enough to get a finger nail wedged into but it does leak. Warning up the panel before I bond it to minimize the gap is probably a great idea.
Tech

I also have a crack and have been doing some research into acrylic repairs. Other fields deal with cracks all the time. racing, aircraft and marine. They drill the small hole at the end of the crack and then use weld on 3 or 4 to wick into the crack and repair it. Both 3 and 4 are wicking /water thin. 3 is very fast but can cause a white haze. 4 is a little slower but doesn't haze. I couldn't find 4 at my local hardware store so I ebayed it and it should be here in a few days. If all goes well I should have a near perfect repair. I don't have much to loose someone clear coated it and it is totally crazed. A couple hours of sanding and I am back to acrylic. let the buffing begin!
Tech

If it also has trouble at WOT it can be a week ignition/ low voltage. It takes more energy to fire at higher compression pressures.
If it does it at all rpms it can be the valve train. It is a fixed relationship. Has it been over reved?
A carbon tracked cap will usually have issues at all rpms.
Arcing plug wires sometimes show up in the dark.
If it sputters like you need a new accelerator pump when you give it a little gas but runs fine if you punch it, it can be a worn throttle position sensor with a flat spot in it.
Tech

It appears that I have two separate problems. The park cable linkage was really sticky causing the key to be difficult to remove. I also see traces of silver dust / grindings at the tilt joint so it must be really worn out.
Tech

http://www.performancedistributors.com/index.html
These guys build great stuff. It drops in the hole and runs.
If it does fail, stock parts still fit so you can get home.
Tech

Using a string to pull the second wire over worked great.
I put the string on the inboard wire.
Seated the outboard wire in its retention clip
pulled on the string while pushing in on the head rest
You can feel the wire sliding across the clip.
It goes click and you release the pressure.
If I thought that the seat back was coming off any time soon I would have tried tucking the string in along the edge of the seat.
Tech

I just purchased a 93 coupe. The steering tilt joint allows the wheel to move down and to the right or left about an inch. Also it takes some finesse to get the key out of the ignition and the shifter button doesn't pop up in park.

It appears that my options are:
Two separate problems miss adjusted park cable and a pin has fallen out of the joint or it is cracked?
The screwed up joint takes the park cable out of adjustment?
The column has been compressed and should be replaced?
The PO attempted a pin repair and now it needs some TLC?

What is the most likely scenario and what is the proper course of action to fix it?
Tech

Thank you for the pics
That is just what I needed.
Could I use the string trick to put the top clips in??

Loop the string around the right wire
Tape the string ends to the left side so they don't get lost
Install the left wire into the seat clip
Pull on the strings
push in on the cushion to seat the right wire
Release one end of the string and pull it through
Tech

Hello

I am new to CG and a new 93 coupe owner. I Ebayed a set of factory sport seat inserts to help clean up the interior. The bottom cushion is easily popped out.
My question is how do I pop the top cushion off the back frame?
Tech

I thought about using the ammonia and garbage bag method but I didn't want to deal with straight ammonia and I didn't think that the garbage bag would stick as well as the cling wrap to the nearly horizontal surface so I opted for more soak time and less harsh chemicals with the Windex.
Tech

This is how I did it. I sprayed a zone of the hatch with Windex and covered it with a sheet of cling wrap. I covered the entire surface this way. Eight hours later I took off the cling and the tint came off in big sheets with most of the adhesive. I had to repeat the process in a few areas that had dried out over night. The remainder of the adhesive was cleaned up with Windex and paper towels.
Jeff