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Thanks for the welcome. I've been a member for a few years but I have had such a hard time logging in. When I can log in, I can't find how to change my password to something easier to remember. Really frustrating, so I ended up spending my time on other Forums.

So if someone can tell me how to change my password and have it SAVE, I'll be on more often.

Disregard the password business. I found what I needed to know.

Jake

Guys post fairly often about a problem like this; other Forums are loaded with such exchanges.

Some continue to believe the Opti can ONLY go on ONE WAY, but you'd be surprised at just how many choose the WRONG location and install it wrong.

Right up until the time the guys realize they selected the wrong pin location that post that they're ABSOLUTELY SURE they installed in correctly.

Shoebox's, GrumpyVette's websites (and probably others) show exactly where the pin goes. I've got the photo saved if you need me to track it down and post it here.

In the meantime I suggest you go back over all your work before putting the problem off to a BAD new Opti. What I mean is EVERYTHING AND PAYING EXTREME ATTENTION TO DETAIL.

Hope this helps.


Jake

Scorpions: 1.7 ratio, 7/16", NON-Self Aligning on my 388 CID and 1.7/1.65 ratio, 7/16" NON-Self Aligning Full RRs on my son's. Both cars are 96 LT1 Vettes.

They are extremely quiet. Noise is somethning that many don't factor in when choosing their brand. Then comes the torrid of posts about how noisey their, for example, Pro Mags are.

Jake

Many guys get tripped up on this procedure based on their posts on other Forums.

Part of it is lack of reading comprehension or just not paying attention to detail. I'm really BIG on Attention to Detail.

In your case, you're REALLY close to doing it right.

Remember, for the engine to immediately fire, there must be some small amount of timing advance set (base/initial) when the distributor is finally flush with the intake. Anywhere along the lines of 4 degrees to 10 degrees BTDC work equally well just for starting purposes.

Once the #1 piston has been set at TDC ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE (COMPRESSION STROKE BEING THE KEY HERE), AND the distributor tip pointed NOT AT EXACTLY THE #1 CAP TERMINAL BUT, INSTEAD SLIGHTLY BETWEEN THE #1 AND #8 CAP TERMINALS, you're good to go.

Chances are with that done, the distributor won't drop in all the way flush with the intake, which is no biggie. The distributor and cam gears are meshed at this point, so any movement of the distributor or engine won't effect the settings you just struggled to achieve.

All I do at that point is to slowly bump the engine with the ignition key. At some point the distributor and oil pump drive slot will align and BINGO! the distributor will drop all the way down, flush. LIKE MAGIC, LOL.

Sure, you can pull the distributor, use a long screwdriver, turn the oil pump drive rod, etc, but that'll call for re-doing the rotor positioning, etc.

MUCH EASIER just to bump the engine and, maybe with your (or someone else's) hand lightly on the distributor.

I've done it this way for decades and it flat out works everytime.

Oh, and don't let my Post Count throw you for a loop. I've got thousands on other Forums where I've been spending most of my time.

I like this Forum so you'll be seeing me here more and more often.

Hope this helps.

Jake

I tried adding an avatar but have a RED "X" in the box and won'tlet me.

How do I add a pic/correct the problem?

Thanks,

Jake

ISKY sells adjustable guide plates.

Others have resorted to cutting and re-welding their plates.

DART sells slightly modded plates to address the slight re-positioning of their valves on their PRO1s. DART's site and literature say the slight off-set is NOT a problem. IIRC the offset distance is .030"

Hope this helps.

Jake

Anyone read TPIS' positive results by setting preload at TWO FULL TURNS FROM ZERO?

Jake

To me "settled" is when all the temps, pressures and idle become predictable and consistent. No code, no leaks and no flucuations from day to day.

Jake

I had a similar problem when I built my 388. The stock covers wouldn't drop all the way down to the head due to poly-lock clearance. Locks were too tall.

I tried shorter poly locks and even clearancing the inside of the cover but still not enough clearance.

So I went with ProForm 1/4" taller covers from Summit; black krinkle with red CHEVROLT logo. The passenger side dropped down all the way and buttoned up fine, but not the driver's side; the alternator became the obstable.

So I used a Sharpie and marked the area on the alternator where the cover hit, removed the alternator and, using a grinder, ground off the offending area. That's all it took.

I first masked off all the openings in the alternator so no aluminum chips would get inside.

Jake

I try to follow the law of diminishing return.

Jake

Break-In: Moly rings seat almost instantly, but I did do a break-in procedure. I primed the hell out of the new engine, turning the crank every couple of minutes. Even after I no longer saw any signs of air being forced out, I kept priming.

Yep, changing oil frequently is what I did too. I followed Golen's recommendation and used Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil, 20W50; NOT synthetic. I cut open the first two oil filters during the oil changes just to see what's what, looking for any silver or copper glitter.

I also loaded and unloaded the engine many times. Doing that at idle won't get the job done; engine needs a load on it.

I drove the car onto the interstate, brought the speed up to around 50-60 MPH in 2nd gear (auto) using moderate throttle pressure, then took my foot off the gas and let the engine pull down to around 20 MPH. I did this many times.

Of course, you'll need to be in an area that's relatively free of traffic so as not to get rear-ended while doing 20 MPH on the interstate.

Watch your temp and pressure gauges like a HAWK until everything settles in.

This is just how I did mine.

Jake

I'm running ARPs head bolts on the 388 I built last spring and didn't retorque them.

I did go over them all several times before buttoning up the engine for installation. I waited about 24 hours before I went through them for the last time. That allows the head gaskets to take any "set", just as with the intake manifold gaskets. I used a stretch gauge on the rod bolts rather than relying on torque; stretch is much more accurate.

Be careful about over-torquing the head bolts! Use the procedure and spec ARP recommends to prevent distorting the cylinder walls with too much torque. If you measure the bore diameter both before and with the heads are bolted on you'll see the walls move due to the head bolt torque, That's why blocks are bored and honed with torque plates in place. They'll measure out of round with no head bolted on, but round with the heads in place.

I use Permatex #2 thread sealant- that dark brown really gooey stuff - and because of how it works, I wasn't concerned about breaking any seal it provides.

I built the engine in Park Forest, Illinois and after a 100 miles or so of both street and shorts stints on the Interstate, I headed for Dallas. The only problem I've had since the build was a stuck closed thermostat a month or so after I arrived in TX. I went with a Fail-Safe model to prevent that problem in the future.

When the stat failed in the closed position, the engine got as hot at 260F before I was able to make it home. Even at that temp, no damage resulted. Even after a year from the stat failure, engine is still as tight as Dick's Hat Band.

Jake

As a good rule of thumb, you're always better to run your engine a little too rich than a little too lean. 14:1 is too lean; you'll have no wiggle room running that lean. 12.9 to 13.1 would be my recommendation. I believe you need to strike a balance between best power and keeping the engine alive. A few seconds at high RPM, WOT and lean and BANG! you're done.

Power adders add to the necessity of keeping the A/F ratio from going lean.

I run 0-40 Mobil 1 for everyday use, although I did follow Golen's (and others) recommendation for break-in by using - Valvoline VR1 Racing 20-50.

Just my thoughts.

Jake

I'm one of those who had been a Corvette Forum member for many, many years.

I cancelled my membership last year because of their policies -banning members and removing posts - and haven't been back since. The only reason I'd ever log back on to that Forum is to use the PARTS FOR SALE board. It's turned into an AWFUL Forum.

JAKE

I primed mine with the Proform model. I also installed a pressure gauge to the block to get a handle on the pressure the drill was creating.



Jake

I went with the Cloyes set from Summit and left everything else as stock; water pump, reluctor, etc.

I considered going with an electric W/P, but decided against it, even though I had already bought a Cloyes True-Roller set. I just sold the T/R to another Forum member who was happy to get it at such a super price.

Jake

I removed my EGR on my 86 and also deleted it on my 96 LT1.

On the 86 I did it to clean up the front of the engine (I removed the AIR too at the same time) and had it turned off in the PROM.

I'm running a modded LT1 intake on my 96, which had the EGR removed and the mounting location welded up. PCMFORLESS did the PROM/PCM mods so I wouldn't get any SES codes.

Whether it's beneficial or not was never a concern for me, I just wanted a few less things to worry about failing.

Jake

My car is a 96, so it's a straight swap. Only Down-Side is all the dash pieces I had to remove to swap them.

I then had to clear the 'SYS' codes which set. That's a piece of cake once I read my FSM to see which buttons to push.

Jake

http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r21/JCAMERON266/



Me, with my son, 2nd year cadet at West Point.

Here's how my Vette looked before I painted the stripes and added the chrome Z06 wheels.




Jake

Well, I did it. Took several hours - lost count on exactly how many - which I spread over a two day period.

Looks and works GREAT! Now I can keep track of my RPMS up top. Well worth the effort.. I found it on eBay; $279 plus $20 shipping.

Jake

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Absolutely. I bought one from a wrecking yard for $10 for my 86. Worked like a charm. Just be sure to take your old one with you to find a match. Doesn't have to come off a Vette either. Many other makes use the same one.

Jake

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Right. From memory, it's forward of and slightly above the oil filter housing. There should be several wires grounded to the block by a single bolt. I can't remember specifically, but the head of the bolt is pretty large, something like 11/16" or 3/4".

Also there is another single ground wire that runs to the frame in the same area.

Jake