Here's a 11 sec vid of the inside view.

There is a HSR under the hood. The only thing that hits on the stock hook hood when using a HSR is the throttle body forward

Thanks Pete! No need for any apology. We all now your very busy. I'm only 1 out of probably a thousand people looking for your help.

Anyone seen him around? I'm sure he's busy, but I need his help.
thanks

Thanks guys for your replies. After 3 hours of troubleshooting I am happy to report I've found the problem. After reading bogus I went back to the grounds again. Only this time into a bit more depth. Even though I would read voltage using the D1 and 3 pins along with being able to zero out the two pins... what if it was either intermitant or they couldn't handle the load... meaning a bad connection or wire. So I took two paperclips push them into the connector then connected a wire direct to battery ground and woolah problem solved. Now I have a nice new ground wire connecting both to a easily accessible ground point.

65k
you'll like this one
http://s60.photobucket.com/albums/h5/ ... view¤t=100_0017.flv

So it you think its outside the cluster where would you start looking if the voltages coming in seem to be correct?
Should I start checking the inputs to the pin connector? tach,and so on.

This cluster has been going nuts and driving me nuts for 2 months now.
Heres the problem, cluster lights up fine with the key in the on position, once started it lights up like a xmas tree and goes crazy.
see video


if the vid doesn't work: http://s60.photobucket.com/albums/h5/ ... view¤t=100_0102.flv

Now, I've already sent it out for repair and was told the center LCD was bad ($275), got it back and it did the same thing. So I sent it back. They put it in a car and it worked fine.
Got it back again with the same problem.
All tests done at the pin connector:
My grounds are fine D1 and D3 zero'd out using the ohm meter.
With key on,engine running Alt hooked up I get
14.7 volts from C16,D16 to D1 and D5 to D1
With key on,engine running Alt disconnected
12.1 volts from the same points as above.

Cluster still goes crazy. Would you think its a cluster or car problem? I think cluster still.
Any ideas on what to check next?
thanks guys

[quote="CentralCoaster"]Quote:

Let me rephrase the point I was trying make.
Deionized water is typically monitored as resistivity not conductivity. Thats and industry standard. I'm not saying you can't measure the quality of the water using conductivity or even TDS for that matter. Resisitivity, imo is an easier unit of measure.

Quote:

Deionized water is read as Resistivety not conductivity..

Reverse Osmosis is fine for drinking a very healthy for you. Much more than bottled water.. The theory is that it still leaves some minerals in the water and a person can not consume enough to harm them. It would take a lot of drinking RO to even begin to effect a person.
Now DI or Distilled your absolutely right... not a good idea to drink.

By the way if your pH is 6.8 going into the RO it will be the same coming out.

Since i am a "water guy" I'm gonna throw my 2 cents in here and give you my opinion. I install and sell water systems for hemodialysis use in the Northeast and am quite familiar with RO and DI. To give you and idea of how dialysis works once you remove all the "impurities" out of the water it then acts as a magnet sort of speak. When passed through a dialyzer , blood is passing through the other side. The only thing seperating the two is a membrane that has tiny pores that only bacteria can pass through. Blood cells are two large. Anyways since pure water acts as a magnet it pulls the bacteria from a persons blood through a membrane. Since thats out of the way....
Would I use RO or DI in the coolant system? NO WAY... why? whats your block and internals made out of? Metal... metal will leach into the water because the water is "pure".... in turn it will create havic and damage to your engine. All metals will leach into the water guranteed!
RO water is not as pure as DI.. RO will remove up to 99% of all impurities while DI water is "perfect" water at 18 meg.
For this reason is why I don't use car washes.... they use either RO or DI and with enough washs will eventually ruin the paint... believe it or not. Best thing to use is soften water with a carbon filter pre...
www.qualitywatersolutions.com
sorry had to do it

for an explantion of Reverse Osmosis you can go here
http://e-watersystems.com/faq.htm
never thought I could plug my ownsite on a corvette forum!

Quote:

That was my fault for typing something I guess I wasn't suppost too. Xtrememotorsports: Sorry for getting that locked on you.

I was only trying to make a point that I like the flash setup. Its not setup for "realtime" tuning but for a DIY tuner I like it. Even though mine isn't for realtime its one less piece of hardware I had to worry about. When I was shopping around for a setup it got confusing for me with all the stuff thats available. Flash just seemed easier in the long run. Change the .bin and just with a simple click it gets downloaded to your ecm. No more chips to buy.

This is why they make a seriel to usb adapter. Its not uncommon. Thats what I've used as many others have too.

why buy one when you can build your own for a few bucks.

http://winaldl.joby.se/aldlcable.htm

Well fortunetly for me our vettes are just pleasure cruisers. We don't use them for DD.
I'm gonna take CFI's advice and just get a motor prepped to install in the next couple of years.
But at least by doing this it gives me an idea of what shape the motor's in. I may go ahead and do it on mine as well. Mine however only has 67k. Not that it makes in any better, but it doesn't hurt to check.

Thanks CFI, thats the info I was looking for. I had a feeling that by putting the reconditioned heads on it would create more problems than whats its worth. The smoke bothers me not her... I'm sure we can keep it going for another year or so.
The engine core idea is good maybe rather than pick up an extra crate for it, I'll just get a core to build myself... its a good learning experience.

Quote:

The engine was hot when I first did my checks and I ended up doing them a few times as the engine cooled down. Those set of numbers were taken when the engine was still warm.
Last summer I noticed that when she started the car up it would blow smoke until it warmed up so at the time I assumed it needed a valve job.


NorCal86- "Do it Right" to me means to get a replacement crate motor for it.

Hey guys,
See a bunch of you over here.
Anyways my project this time is on my wifes 84, her car has 219k on it and does run rather well. Last spring I replaced the heads on my 84, I took those and sent them out to get redone in hopes of putting them on hers. But before I do I wanted to do at least a dry/wet compression test.
These are what I came up with.
Cyl Dry Wet
1 150 152
3 140 155
5 160 158
7 145 150
2 155 155
4 150 150
6 180 180
8 155 179

It looks like I do have some ring wear which would be normal since the mileage is high. So what do you think: can I get by with just the reconditioned heads or should I just pull it and do it right?