Iam about half way through my winter projects and need some information.
I have a 1990 L98 with 70,000 kms on it. all bone stock except for flowmasters and a K&N filter.
#1 I would like to change the Plugs Cap and wires. What make do you guys suggest.?
#2 Also my thermostat is sticking . Should I go with a 160 or 180 deg and what type of coolant.?
#3 When the car was warm last summer I was getting quite a bit of engine ping on acceleration. I run 94 octane gas most of the time. How do I fix this?
#4 last but not least I would like to change the ATF fluid.I have a Vert which has the cross brace, how do i drop the pan?

Thanking you in advance for any info supplied. Mark

p/s I rebuilt the headlight gears this weekend with info from this site. Made the job easy.

OK...
1# Since you are stock, AC Delco parts should be fine. I like Delco Rapid Fire #5 plugs for my 91.

#2 You could do either, but if you temps are running high, I'd clean the area between the radiator and condensor.

#3 Start by checking the timing.

#4 Sorry, I don't know. I have a coupe.

Bill

Thanks for the info Bill. I keep a close check on that garbage collection area.

In order to change the tranny filter you need to get the car up in the air and remove the X-brace on the vert. You can buy the kit to include the new filter and gasket at a local GM dealer, www.corvettecentral.com or www.gmpartsdirect.com
Gordon Killebrew recommends synthetic fluid such as that made by Mobil 1. I saw him demonstrate how to change the tranny fluid on a A4 C4 once at a Corvette show. He removed the transmission fluid line that attaches at the radiator and secured a rubber hose over the end and placed the other end in a large tub. He then started the car in neutral and let the fluid run out until it started to sputter. He shut the car off. He then removed the intake line and ran a hose from that into a gallon of Mobil 1 tranny fluid. He started the car and ran it in neutral until he could see the new, clean fluid start to discharge into the tub. It was a couple of years ago and I don't remember too well but it seemed like he had to add another quart or so to the Mobil 1 jug cause the tranny might hold more than 1 gallon of fresh fluid. He did say to drive the car a few miles and then check the fluid level at that time and then to check it again after another hundred miles or so. With this method you do not remove the tranny pan or replace the filter.

Good info above. Get the right tranny fluid for your year of GM car. Most any brand is fine IMO. I suggest NGK plugs if you are going to change them often. Copper core plugs (like the NGK's) if you are going to change often, platinum or iridium if you are going for plug longevity. To remove the brace, there are 4 bolts at each of the 4 corners, then 2 nuts on each side in the floorpan area, toward the rear from center of the brace. You do not need to remove the nuts that are in the center of the X. When it comes down you will see that there are aluminum spacer blocks that were between the brace and the car that the rear x brace bolts go up through. Don't lose them. It is simple. I remove the bolts with the car on the ground, then jack it up to do the work. I then jack the car down and reinstall the bolts. That way the chassis isn't slightly twisted when I tighten the bolts. I noticed if I have the front jacked way up when I try to reinstall the bolts they don't line up very well. With the car sitting as normal on the ground the bolts line right up. Also, my X brace was bent up in and hitting the exhaust so I laid the corners on blocks and bent the center down just a little for clearance and it worked fine.

Thank You very much guys!!!!!
Great info. I plan on finishing the rest of the work in the next couple of weeks so if this snow ever melts I am ready to go.
Mark