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SJW '94 LT1 clutch, flywheel, etc.
Guru
Central Maryland
51 Posts
Member since:
2005/9/16 0:00



Offline
Hey, everyone.

I need to pull my '94 LT1 down for some maintenance items this winter. On the docket are:

Clutch
Shifter boot
Tailshaft seal (and possibly bushing) for the ZF-6.
ZF-6 lube change.
Corsa exhaust (to replace the B&B that's on the car now).

I'm seeking advice about the clutch job. Questions on my mind include:

1. Flywheel choice. I'm not a big fan of dual-mass flywheels. Their cost and susceptibility to premature failure leave me less than thrilled about buying and installing one as a replacement. I know that I do not want an aluminum SM wheel, but I've heard talk of steel single-mass flywheels that can be used instead. My understanding is that minor machining of an F-Body steel single-mass wheel can make it a direct bolt-in replacement for the Y-Body DM unit. Can anyone offer any rock-solid factual info about this? Also, just how bad is the gear rattle likely to be with a steel SM wheel in a '94 LT1 car?

2. Clutch choice. OEM? Aftermarket, and if so, which one? Upsides and downsides to any aftermarket options would be most useful to know.

3. What are the issues associated with balancing the clutch/flywheel assembly? How is this affected by either staying with an OEM DM unit, or switching over to a modified steel F-Body SM unit?

4. I'm aware of the C-Beam plates, and they seem like a wise expenditure. Is there anything else that's useful to know beyond what's addressed in the FSM?

Many thanks in advance for any insights.

Live well,

SJW
Posted on: 2007/11/1 20:33
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bogus RE:'94 LT1 clutch, flywheel, etc.
Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
San Pedro, CA
20859 Posts
Member since:
2005/9/7 0:00



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To hit the points:

1. The DM does not prematurely fail... it dies at 120k. Done. The problem is that the DM acts much like the spring in a conventional sprung hub clutch friction disc, that wears, so does the DM... sad, really. With that said, yes, the F-body SM will work, just cut .090 off. You will use a Corvette pressure plate and an Fbody friction disc.

2. Are you cranking out 450hp? If not, stock, organic clutches are just fine and maintain easy street drivability.

2a. Whatever you do with the clutch, if you go away from the DM, you will have to get the SM "match balanced." This is when the intentional out of balance of the DM is applied to the SM. If not, serious vibrations will ensue. Sad, really.

3. I have beam plates. I like them. If for no other reason than it makes reinstalling the c-beam that much easier. It also helps cut down on the swing to the right the rear end does under hard acceleration.

I would consider doing u-joints.
Posted on: 2007/11/2 4:05
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Strick RE:'94 LT1 clutch, flywheel, etc.
Guru
Lake Wylie, SC
129 Posts
Member since:
2005/11/26 0:00



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I totally agree with bogus on the merits of staying with the dual mass flywheel, unless you have 400 plus ponies under the hood and you intend to use slicks at the drag strip. I changed my clutch, flywheel and release bearing out at 40 K due to an oil leak from the rear of the intake manifold. Oil got all over the clutch and it was slipping badly. When you do remove the clutch, you can check the dual mass flywheel for excessive rotational play, just checkout the Helms Service manual. I got a good deal on e-bay on a flywheel, clutch and release bearing from a crate engne that was going into an automatic. Paid around $450 for all of it.

Balance---very critical on LT1s from 92 and up as this is an externally balanced engine and the flywheel is used to quiet the vibrations in the LT engines. There is a series of holes around the outer edge of the dual mass flywheel that weights are driven into to achieve balance. You have to match these weight filled holes with your old dual mass. While you're in there, replace your rear main seal, yours is getting old. I went further and replaced the oil filter adapter gasket, rubber O-ring and since it was easy to get at, replaced the fuel filter. Yes. beam plates are a good thing. Now would be a great time to install a new short shifter like a Hurst. Don't forget to flush out the hydraulics in the clutch.

Oh, I forgot, if you want to know what a single mass flywheel sounds like at idle, just find a small box and put several large ball bearings in it and roll the box over and over. It's embarrassing when you pull up to a Mustang at a light.
Posted on: 2007/11/3 13:09
_________________
92 LT1, 6 speed, 3.54 rear, headers, B&B catback, Hurst shifter, polished ZR1 5 spoke wheels, Meziere electric water pump, other mods.
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SJW RE:'94 LT1 clutch, flywheel, etc.
Guru
Central Maryland
51 Posts
Member since:
2005/9/16 0:00



Offline
Quote:
To hit the points:

1. The DM does not prematurely fail... it dies at 120k. Done. The problem is that the DM acts much like the spring in a conventional sprung hub clutch friction disc, that wears, so does the DM... sad, really. With that said, yes, the F-body SM will work, just cut .090 off. You will use a Corvette pressure plate and an Fbody friction disc.

2. Are you cranking out 450hp? If not, stock, organic clutches are just fine and maintain easy street drivability.

2a. Whatever you do with the clutch, if you go away from the DM, you will have to get the SM "match balanced." This is when the intentional out of balance of the DM is applied to the SM. If not, serious vibrations will ensue. Sad, really.

3. I have beam plates. I like them. If for no other reason than it makes reinstalling the c-beam that much easier. It also helps cut down on the swing to the right the rear end does under hard acceleration.

I would consider doing u-joints.


Thanks for the advice, Andy. My LT1 has only ~49k miles on it. If the rotational slop in the DM checks out okay and it's otherwise good (not scorched, etc), would you recommend leaving it alone? Considering the labor involved, I'd been planning to just go ahead and replace it while I had it all torn down.

If the F-Body SM wheel is used, where do you remove the .090"? From the pressure plate side, or from the crank-mating surface?

My LT1 is stock, but the original clutch is very near end-of-life at only 49k miles. This is why I'm considering aftermarket alternatives.

I think the beam plates are a no-brainer. I'll go with 'em. U-joints on the driveshaft also sound like a no-brainer, considering it'll be out of the car. Good advice.

Live well,

SJW
Posted on: 2007/11/8 20:52
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SJW RE:'94 LT1 clutch, flywheel, etc.
Guru
Central Maryland
51 Posts
Member since:
2005/9/16 0:00



Offline
Quote:
I totally agree with bogus on the merits of staying with the dual mass flywheel, unless you have 400 plus ponies under the hood and you intend to use slicks at the drag strip. I changed my clutch, flywheel and release bearing out at 40 K due to an oil leak from the rear of the intake manifold. Oil got all over the clutch and it was slipping badly. When you do remove the clutch, you can check the dual mass flywheel for excessive rotational play, just checkout the Helms Service manual. I got a good deal on e-bay on a flywheel, clutch and release bearing from a crate engne that was going into an automatic. Paid around $450 for all of it.

Balance---very critical on LT1s from 92 and up as this is an externally balanced engine and the flywheel is used to quiet the vibrations in the LT engines. There is a series of holes around the outer edge of the dual mass flywheel that weights are driven into to achieve balance. You have to match these weight filled holes with your old dual mass. While you're in there, replace your rear main seal, yours is getting old. I went further and replaced the oil filter adapter gasket, rubber O-ring and since it was easy to get at, replaced the fuel filter. Yes. beam plates are a good thing. Now would be a great time to install a new short shifter like a Hurst. Don't forget to flush out the hydraulics in the clutch.

Oh, I forgot, if you want to know what a single mass flywheel sounds like at idle, just find a small box and put several large ball bearings in it and roll the box over and over. It's embarrassing when you pull up to a Mustang at a light.


Thanks much for the advice, Strick. The LT1 is stock, and I don't run slicks or drag radials. The clutch chatters, and that may or may not have anything to do with the DM. No way to know until it's torn down, of course.

Does a steel SM cause that much gear rattle? I know the aluminum wheels do, but there's no way I'd install one of those in my street driver anyway. I was hoping a steel SM would be livable in terms of how much gear rattle it would cause. I can deal with a bit of gear rattle, but if it's excessive it'll get on my nerves for sure.

Live well,

SJW
Posted on: 2007/11/8 20:58
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bogus RE:'94 LT1 clutch, flywheel, etc.
Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
San Pedro, CA
20859 Posts
Member since:
2005/9/7 0:00



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at 49k, it's questionable. Techincally, they last about 120k, so it look at it from a time issue.

From that perspective, I would use it. Hell, at 49k, you have atleast 50k more to go... and I don't get the feeling you drive it that much.

Simply scuff it clean and go for it.
Posted on: 2007/11/9 2:25
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SJW RE:'94 LT1 clutch, flywheel, etc.
Guru
Central Maryland
51 Posts
Member since:
2005/9/16 0:00



Offline
Quote:
at 49k, it's questionable. Techincally, they last about 120k, so it look at it from a time issue.

From that perspective, I would use it. Hell, at 49k, you have atleast 50k more to go... and I don't get the feeling you drive it that much.

Simply scuff it clean and go for it.


It doesn't have all that many miles on it, but some of those miles haven't exactly been easy miles. The DM might be contributing to the clutch chatter, but I won't know that 'til I've pulled it down and had a look at everything.

It is true that I haven't driven the car as much since I bought the LT4, but it does still see some miles. This year I drove it to St Augustine in May, the Carolinas in June, and Maine in September (as well as some local cruising). Hoping to run it to Key West again this coming March...

Live well,

SJW
Posted on: 2007/11/9 17:04
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