All Posts (SJW)
Re: VATS lubrication..... necessary? - 1992 |
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I got into the habit years ago of wiping both sides of the ignition key on my pants (unless they're sweaty or grungy!) before inserting the key into the lock cylinder. No VATS problems so far here!
Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2012/10/10 23:50
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Re: My brother just called. |
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High praise, coming from the young 'uns.
 Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/9/9 2:44
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Re: Finally - Garage Build |
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Okay, I'm envious. My one-hole garage just ain't enough...
Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/8/23 20:57
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Re: Enjoyed my car tonight!! Finally |
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Congrats on getting her back on the road, Don. I'd love to see your car in person one of these days.
Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/8/11 1:53
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Re: Single mass flywheel w/unsprung clutch hub |
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Guru
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I can't speak from personal experience (I'm running a sprung-hub Stage 2 Spec clutch with their extra-weight billet steel SMF in my '94), so I can't comment on driveabilty issues, but I would be very wary of installing a solid-hub clutch disc in a car with a SMF. Those hub springs help to soften driveline shock, and without them, or the springs in a DMF, I'd be worried about grenading gearboxes, D44s, driveshafts and halfshafts.
Did Spec recommend you go ahead and install that solid-hub disc with your SMF? Live well, SJW Edit: Looks like the previous reply got there while I was typing mine. So... What he said! Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/7/21 21:33
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Re: 86-96 C4 No Flex Frame Stiffener Bar System |
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I have no experience with these bars, but I can see how they'd add some rigidity to the frame rails. It appears to me that they would effectively increase the height of the rails. Think of it as the difference between a six-inch high I-beam, and an eight-inch high I-beam.
Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/7/19 23:58
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Re: Does this look ok to you guys? |
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I feel your pain. What was the foreign object that the cylinder swallowed?
Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/7/19 23:52
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Re: Need to buy a new opti ... *ACK* |
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I was fortunate that when the opti began misfiring on my '94 back in 2004, the Dynaspark was still being built by DynoTech Engineering, and that's what I installed. The car's been running flawlessly ever since. Sadly, I've been seeing almost nothing but bad reports from Dynaspark users since Phil sold the product line off some years ago.
If I were needing a replacement spline-drive opti, I think I'd probably go with the MSD unit, despite the mixed reviews I've read about them. If I were needing a replacement pin-drive opti, it'd be a toss-up between the MSD and OEM, and I'd probably tilt toward the OEM unit because the quality difference is smaller, and the price difference is larger. But I'd caulk the unit up with RTV before I installed it... Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/7/16 14:18
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Re: Another exhaust option |
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Guru
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If you have any interest in a B&B triflow exhaust, drop me a line. I have one I'll let go at a very reasonable price, if I don't have to ship it.
Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/7/3 14:23
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Re: Well it died on Saturday (engine) Carnage Picts added to last post |
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Dayum. Every time you think you've seen it all, somebody's gotta go and prove ya wrong. Sorry it was you! Major misfortune there. That's about as freaky as any engine failure I can recall seeing...
Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/6/16 2:02
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Re: New Leather Seats |
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Guru
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Mighty fine looking seats!
Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/6/13 22:42
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Re: 1996 "bogging" issue. ASR? |
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Guru
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2005/9/16 0:00 From Central Maryland
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Sounds like a fuel starvation issue to me.
Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/6/7 3:21
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Re: Driveshaft slip yoke not slipping! |
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Quote:
Hmm... This makes me wonder if the tailshaft bushing might have a burr on it, or have some sort of fabrication flaw that alters its inner diameter or concentricity. Odds are it was replaced during the rebuild. To the extent that it's possible to do so, I'd suggest trying to peek at it through the gap between the shaft and seal, using a bright penlight. Is there any chance there's a layer of grease on the external splines of the tailshaft, and/or the internal splines of the yoke, that could be causing an airlock to form in the cavity of the yoke? Or a buildup of grease or some other foreign material in the yoke cavity? I'm in the Greenbelt area, and a member of FSCC. I worked in G-burg for around 12 years, then in Columbia for around 8 years. We oughta get together for a chilly-pop and some bench racin' one of these warm summer evenings. Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/5/17 2:13
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Re: Driveshaft slip yoke not slipping! |
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Yah, that doesn't sound right. I'd pull it back out, and inspect everything carefully. Is there grease, or some foreign material in the cavity of the slip yoke? Is this the same yoke and driveshaft that was in the car before you pulled it apart? Have the trans or diff been altered in any way since the shaft was last in the car?
Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/5/16 11:28
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Re: Rims for c4 |
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Whether or not they'll fit (doubtful) is only one of the questions you need to ask yourself.
Another is whether or not you'll like the look of them on the car. I suggest you either get somebody who's good with Photoshop to fake them into a photo of your car for you, and/or prop them up alongside of your car and take a look/photo from an angle that places them where they'd be, and see how you like the look. Obviously everybody has their own preferred aesthetic, but a 22" rim on a C4 is not a look that would appeal to me. A third question is whether or not you can get tires in the size that you'd need for this application. A fourth question is whether you really want a tire profile that is as low as you'd need it to be in order to fit these rims on this car, if they can be made to fit at all. Installing a tire that has so little sidewall is a heinous bitch of a job (I had a minor wrestling match just installing the 40-series and 45-series Pilot Sports on my LT4 car recently), and each increment lower you go in profile introduces an increasingly harsh ride, as well as less impact tolerance. Super-low profile tires on a street cruiser can be punishing to the occupants, and potholes can be lethal to both the tires and rims. A 40-series tires is as low as I'd ever want to go on a street-driven vehicle. Going any lower in profile, there's just so little to be gained in terms of handling, and so much to be lost in ride quality and hazard forgiveness, that, IMHO, 40-series is the tipping point in this trade-off, unless it's a track car that won't see road hazards. Finally, would these rims become a tempting target for thieves who sell into the ghetto markets? Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/5/15 18:16
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Re: Any tips for manually turning the engine from underneath the car? |
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Guru
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A flywheel turner is a tool that the average DIY won't use all that often, but even if you only use it once, it's worth the purchase price.
Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/5/15 18:01
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Re: Badest IRS in the land....so far |
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Guru
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Think he'll toss me the keys?
Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/5/8 14:40
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Re: What tires to get? |
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Guru
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Both of my C4s had Michelin Pilot Sports on them when I bought the cars, and they have been fantastic. I recently installed a fresh set on my LT4 car, and that's what'll go on my '94 when the time comes. These tires are quiet, they grip like stink, and they last a very long time for performance tires. I've gotten over 30,000 miles on each of two sets so far. They aren't cheap, but if you plan to keep the car for the next 25K-plus miles, the price tends to level out versus cheaper tires that won't last as long.
Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/5/5 0:45
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Re: Additional Security Measures |
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Quote:
Very easy, if you're any good at soldering. If not, you can hand the task off to somebody who is. I bought a lighter plug, and soldered it to the output wires from the float charger. Make sure you get the positive wire (+12V) connected to the center contact on the plug, and the ground wire connected to the outer spring contacts. Here's what the finished product looks like: [IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c300/SJW2/Battery%20Tender/DSCN7001.jpg[/IMG] Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/5/4 1:40
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Re: Additional Security Measures |
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Guru
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Quote:
Sure you don't mean "PKE"? Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/5/3 22:19
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Re: Additional Security Measures |
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Guru
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Quote:
This raises a very good point... A battery disconnect switch will disable the alarm system. A bad idea, IMHO. Far better to go with a battery tender. Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/5/3 22:18
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Re: Additional Security Measures |
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Guru
Joined:
2005/9/16 0:00 From Central Maryland
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Quote:
Yep, I sometimes don't lock my ragtop car when it's parked, just for this very reason. VATS will keep the car from being started by someone who smashes the column, and I hate the thought of somebody knifing my top, only to have the alarm go off when they then open the door. Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/5/3 22:15
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Re: Additional Security Measures |
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Guru
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2005/9/16 0:00 From Central Maryland
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Quote:
Gotta agree with Bogus. I've spent a lot of time on various Corvette forums and mailing lists since '95, and I just don't hear of C4s being stolen in recent years. VATS is pretty effective, and the C4 just isn't a desirable car for thieves these days. You're far more likely to have something stolen FROM the car, or to have the car vandalized, than to have the entire car disappear while parked. All C4 Corvettes have side-terminal batteries. As Bogus noted, a high-quality battery tender (I like the Shumacher brand) is a good investment for a car that spends more than a couple of weeks sitting unused. I modified mine with a cigarette lighter plug for easy, no-hassle (and safer) connection/disconnection. Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/5/3 2:45
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Re: Any Corsa install tips? 94 LT1 |
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Guru
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As Bogus noted, it's pretty straight-forward. The installation instructions are available on Corsa's website. Follow them, and it'll generally go pretty well.
I did have to shave around a half-inch off of the end one of the pipes to make everything fit well on mine, but YMMV. Other than that, it all fit pretty well on my car. I did a lot of fussing around to get things positioned as well as could be done, but all in all, it wasn't a particularly bad job. I didn't weld anything, and I won't, as I'd prefer to be able to remove the system in pieces, rather than having to wrestle the entire cat-back in/out as a unit (not an easy proposition when working without help on a Kwiklift, as I do). Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/4/27 2:03
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Re: vert owners, I need some help |
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Guru
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I ran across some chatter on CF that seemed to indicate that you'd headed off to camp. Hard to imagine what could have been behind that. Seemed to me that you were always one of the more cordial inhabitants there. Needless to say, I was most surprised and quite puzzled.
Do I understand correctly that you're now holding the reins hereabouts? Glad to hear you've both been doing well. Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/4/21 1:04
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Re: vert owners, I need some help |
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Guru
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2005/9/16 0:00 From Central Maryland
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Thanks, Andy. It has indeed been a while. I took an extended vacation from all forums (fora?), and have only recently found my way back to CF and even more recently, to here. It's been a busy life lately. Hope all's been well with you and 44!
Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/4/21 0:36
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Re: vert owners, I need some help |
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Happy to help out. Good luck with it.
Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/4/20 4:30
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Re: vert owners, I need some help |
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Guru
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I'm not seeing anything that looks like those pieces on my '94, but there are two relatively small pieces that are used at the upper end of the B-pillar (or what there is of one on a ragtop car).
I'm wondering if either: 1. They sent you a carpet kit for a different model year of C4, that might have been different in this area? or, 2. The maker of the carpet kit took a cheap way out, making a cheesy replacement for this part on each side? Here are three pix I shot tonight. I hope they somehow help, although it's not easy to shoot any quality pix of this area without removing the ragtop completely from the car. This one attempts to capture the passenger's side, with a camera angle shooting from the opposite side, and behind: [IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c300/SJW2/Hatch%20Release%20Lever/DSCN8331.jpg[/IMG] This one attempts to capture the driver's side, from behind: [IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c300/SJW2/Hatch%20Release%20Lever/DSCN8330.jpg[/IMG] And this one is taken of the driver's side, from a more frontal position: [IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c300/SJW2/Hatch%20Release%20Lever/DSCN8332.jpg[/IMG] On my carpet set, the two smaller pieces that cover these areas have an attached channel that grips the pinch-weld area along the traling edge, and I can't see how they're attached at the leading edge without some disassembly. Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2011/4/20 2:04
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Re: vert owners, I need some help |
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Guru
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Here are the only three I have on file. They are model year '94. I can shoot more if needed.
Live well, SJW [IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c300/SJW2/94/DSCN0346.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c300/SJW2/Hatch%20Release%20Lever/HatchReleaseLever.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c300/SJW2/94/DSCN0348.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 2011/4/19 2:17
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RE:Plug wire replacement |
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Guru
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2005/9/16 0:00 From Central Maryland
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Casey has given you some good advice.
If the Opti is known to have a lot of miles on it, consider replacing it with the MSD unit while you're in there. Otherwise, leave it alone. The factory wires for the LT4 engine were red, are of good quality and will fit perfectly. You might want to look into acquiring a set of these. Below is a set of tech tips I wrote up some time ago about swapping the plugs & wires on an LTx engine: Changing the plug wires on an LT1/LT4 Corvette is not a lot of fun, but it can be done. Here are a few tips: 1. Raise the front end of the vehicle to a more comfortable working height. 2. Remove the inner fenderwell center panel on the driver's side. This will allow you to both see and do the job much more easily on the driver's side. You may also find it helpful to remove the wheel. 3. Unbolt the ASR bracketry from the frame, so that you can slide the ASR unit around to get it out of your way. 4. Unbolt the power steering pump so that you can move it forward around a half inch. This will make it much easier to sneak the plug wires in/out behind the pump. 5. Remove the serpentine belt and tensioner. 6. Use dielectric grease in the boots at both ends of the wires. Be sure to "burp" the air out of the boots after you get each of them pushed firmly into place, so that the trapped air doesn't try to push the wires off later. Some guys report that they've had decent success accessing the Opti-end of the plug wires from underneath of the car, and that this saved them the trouble of removing the belt and tensioner. I haven't tried this, so I can't comment. Take your time, work with care, and pay attention to what you're doing. The OEM replacement plug wires from your Chevy dealer are high quality parts, and will route (and fit into the wire looms) correctly. Run the new wires properly, and make sure they stay away from anything that moves, is sharp, or gets hot. The passenger's side is not such a bad job. The driver's side is a Queen Royal Bitch (mostly because all of the belt-driven accessories are hanging on the driver’s side of the front of LT1/LT4 engines, and they leave little room for you to work or see what you’re doing). With plenty of patience, beer and Band-Aids, you'll get it done. The spark plugs on the driver's side aren't so bad, when you've got things apart to do the wires. The passenger's side, however, is not so easy. The number 8 plug in particular can be a real headache, but with good tools and enough patience, you can get it done. Because there isn’t room for a ratchet on top of the spark plug socket, I use a plug socket that has a hex head on it so that it can be turned with an open end or box end wrench. It's useful to have more than one plug socket to choose from, as some will work better than others due to differences in length, wall thickness, etc. Be sure to apply a small amount of anti-sieze compound to the threads of the new plugs before you install them so that they won’t seize in the cylinder heads in the future (this is especially important with aluminum heads). Just make sure none of the compound gets onto the electrodes or insulators of the plugs. I apply a very thin stripe of compound across the threads in one spot, and it spreads itself around the threads as I screw the plug into the hole. Also be careful that you don’t pick up any of the grunge that may have accumulated over the years around the spark plug hole in the cylinder head on the new plugs’ electrodes/insulators/threads while you’re installing them – try your best to get the tip of the plug straight into the hole on the first shot. For OEM parts at great prices, contact Chris May at Superior Chevrolet (1-800-728-8267), and tell him you're a C4Guru forum member. Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2007/11/27 22:08
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RE:'94 LT1 clutch, flywheel, etc. |
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Quote:
at 49k, it's questionable. Techincally, they last about 120k, so it look at it from a time issue. It doesn't have all that many miles on it, but some of those miles haven't exactly been easy miles.  The DM might be contributing to the clutch chatter, but I won't know that 'til I've pulled it down and had a look at everything.It is true that I haven't driven the car as much since I bought the LT4, but it does still see some miles. This year I drove it to St Augustine in May, the Carolinas in June, and Maine in September (as well as some local cruising). Hoping to run it to Key West again this coming March... Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2007/11/9 17:04
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RE:HELP TO REPLACE A DISTRIBUTOR FOR A 96 VETTE |
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Guru
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2005/9/16 0:00 From Central Maryland
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Quote:
http://www.dynaspark.net/ If I recall correctly, that page has been on their website as-is for at least several months. Seems to me that's the way it read when I last visited some months ago when I got curious about whether or not they were still in business. Although I've heard no confirmation about it one way or another, I strongly suspect that DynaSpark has gone Tango Uniform as a company. Wonder if anyone's answering the phone there these days... Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2007/11/9 16:58
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Re: I guess I'm not very observant... |
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Quote:
Yes, the dim light on the underside of the mirror is a floodlight to illuminate the shifter, cupholder/ashtray/lighter area, etc. It'll be on whenever you have parking lights or headlights on. Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2007/11/8 21:34
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RE:shock removal |
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Guru
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I haven't yet needed to try this on a C4, but back when I was wrenching for a living in a previous life, while changing shocks on older GM cars if I ran into such a stubborn nut that refused to spin free, here's how I'd solve the problem:
I put a deep-well socket onto my longest 1/2" drive extension bar (it's around 36" long), slipped the socket over the nut, and yanked the extension bar back and forth a few times. With the leverage the extension offered, I was easily able to break off the upper stud of the shock below the nut. It quickly ended that annoying obstacle. FWIW... Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2007/11/8 21:15
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RE:HELP TO REPLACE A DISTRIBUTOR FOR A 96 VETTE |
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Guru
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Consider the MSD as an alternative to an OEM replacement unit. The second-gen Opti in your car is much better (and less expensive) than the lousy first-gen units were, but if you want to hedge your bets, go with the MSD. If DynaSpark is still in business (which seems to be in doubt these days), consider their product as well. I installed a Dyna in my '94 back in 2004, and have been very pleased with it.
If you have a good set of general mechanic's tools, and decent mechanical skills, you can tackle the Opti swap yourself. No special tools are required. Here are a few tech tips I wrote up some time ago about doing an Opti swap: -------- Get a Factory Service Manual, and follow the procedure it lays out. A few tips (I'm going from memory here, so I'll probably forget a few things): Drain the cooling system. Disconnect the MAF sensor and IAT sensor and remove the air intake duct with the MAF and IAT as an assembly. Disconnect the ECT sensor and remove it from the water pump. Remove the serpentine belt and tensioner. You may find that you’ll need to unbolt the coil/ICM bracket from the front of the right cylinder head. I can’t recall for sure whether or not I did. Unbolt (but don't remove) the power steering pump. This will help you to sneak the new plug wires in/out behind the pump, but may also be somewhat helpful when working on the water pump/Opti. If you want more room to work, you can remove the radiator, but it isn't strictly necessary, and it involves considerably more work to remove it (I left mine in place). The FSM will tell you that you need a special Kent-Moore puller to remove the crank pulley/damper. You don't. Here's how to get it off: 1. Raise the front of the vehicle enough that you can get under the car (it's also helpful to have it at a more comfortable height while you're working from above). 2. Remove the three bolts that secure the pulley/damper to the hub. 3. Mark the damper and hub so that you can easily see how to realign them to each other later. 4. Slide under the car with a long pry bar or hardwood dowel (I use a jumbo Snap-On screwdriver that's around two feet long) and a mallet. 5. Place the tip of the pry bar against the rear face of the damper, as close to the hub as possible (Ideally rest the tip alongside of the hub). 6 Give the pry bar a few whacks with the mallet, and with any luck the damper will pop off without too much of a fight. You may find it helpful to apply a few whacks, then rotate the crankshaft in 120* increments, whacking it a few times at each interval (I haven't needed to do this). It's also helpful to, if possible, shoot a bit of penetrating oil where the damper meets the hub, a day or more in advance of doing the job. After you get the damper off, clean the damper/hub mating surfaces to remove all corrosion, etc, and apply a very thin coating of anti-seize compound to these surfaces before you reassemble the damper to the hub. This should make it a lot easier to get the damper off next time. Once the damper is removed, rotate the crankshaft so that one wing of the damper hub is at the six-o'clock position. This will position the other two wings at around the ten- and two-o'clock positions. In this orientation, the Opti will clear the hub as it is being removed/installed. The Opti basically unbolts and pulls off as you'd expect, once you have the water pump and damper out of the way. Once the Opti is out of the way, inspect the shaft seals for the Opti, water pump, and crankshaft. If they show any signs of leakage, replace them now. When you install the new Opti, be sure to align it correctly with the cam gear, and don't force it into place against the timing cover (do NOT use the bolts to draw it into place). At most, give it a gentle bump with the heel of your hand to encourage it to pop into place. Reassemble everything else. Follow the cooling system refill procedure in the FSM carefully, and you'll have no problems with this. In particular, be sure to bleed the air out of the system as it's being refilled. Hope this helps. Best of luck with it. Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2007/11/8 21:08
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RE:'94 LT1 clutch, flywheel, etc. |
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I totally agree with bogus on the merits of staying with the dual mass flywheel, unless you have 400 plus ponies under the hood and you intend to use slicks at the drag strip. I changed my clutch, flywheel and release bearing out at 40 K due to an oil leak from the rear of the intake manifold. Oil got all over the clutch and it was slipping badly. When you do remove the clutch, you can check the dual mass flywheel for excessive rotational play, just checkout the Helms Service manual. I got a good deal on e-bay on a flywheel, clutch and release bearing from a crate engne that was going into an automatic. Paid around $450 for all of it. Thanks much for the advice, Strick. The LT1 is stock, and I don't run slicks or drag radials. The clutch chatters, and that may or may not have anything to do with the DM. No way to know until it's torn down, of course. Does a steel SM cause that much gear rattle? I know the aluminum wheels do, but there's no way I'd install one of those in my street driver anyway. I was hoping a steel SM would be livable in terms of how much gear rattle it would cause. I can deal with a bit of gear rattle, but if it's excessive it'll get on my nerves for sure. Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2007/11/8 20:58
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RE:'94 LT1 clutch, flywheel, etc. |
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To hit the points: Thanks for the advice, Andy. My LT1 has only ~49k miles on it. If the rotational slop in the DM checks out okay and it's otherwise good (not scorched, etc), would you recommend leaving it alone? Considering the labor involved, I'd been planning to just go ahead and replace it while I had it all torn down. If the F-Body SM wheel is used, where do you remove the .090"? From the pressure plate side, or from the crank-mating surface? My LT1 is stock, but the original clutch is very near end-of-life at only 49k miles. This is why I'm considering aftermarket alternatives. I think the beam plates are a no-brainer. I'll go with 'em. U-joints on the driveshaft also sound like a no-brainer, considering it'll be out of the car. Good advice. Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2007/11/8 20:52
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Hey, everyone.
I need to pull my '94 LT1 down for some maintenance items this winter. On the docket are: Clutch Shifter boot Tailshaft seal (and possibly bushing) for the ZF-6. ZF-6 lube change. Corsa exhaust (to replace the B&B that's on the car now). I'm seeking advice about the clutch job. Questions on my mind include: 1. Flywheel choice. I'm not a big fan of dual-mass flywheels. Their cost and susceptibility to premature failure leave me less than thrilled about buying and installing one as a replacement. I know that I do not want an aluminum SM wheel, but I've heard talk of steel single-mass flywheels that can be used instead. My understanding is that minor machining of an F-Body steel single-mass wheel can make it a direct bolt-in replacement for the Y-Body DM unit. Can anyone offer any rock-solid factual info about this? Also, just how bad is the gear rattle likely to be with a steel SM wheel in a '94 LT1 car? 2. Clutch choice. OEM? Aftermarket, and if so, which one? Upsides and downsides to any aftermarket options would be most useful to know. 3. What are the issues associated with balancing the clutch/flywheel assembly? How is this affected by either staying with an OEM DM unit, or switching over to a modified steel F-Body SM unit? 4. I'm aware of the C-Beam plates, and they seem like a wise expenditure. Is there anything else that's useful to know beyond what's addressed in the FSM? Many thanks in advance for any insights. Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2007/11/1 20:33
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RE:GP***Tapered Rear Wheel Bearing***GP |
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I may very soon be needing a RW bearing/hub for my LT4 coupe. Can anyone vouch for the quality/durability of these new assemblies? I'm intrigued by the tapered bearing design. Seems to me that's the way they should have been built all along.
What are the differences between the install procedure for these as opposed to the OEM-style bearings? TIA. Live well, SJW
Posted on: 2007/11/1 20:18
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RE:Corvette Weekend at Ocean City, MD October 12-14 |
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Ah, my old club (Free State). Hope your all doing well. I think it's hotter up there right now than down here in Florida. Say hello to anyone there that remembers me (Carey Mandell). Hey, Carey. How long ago did you move away, and drop out of FSCC? Are you coming up for Ocean City weekend? Be well, SJW
Posted on: 2007/7/23 18:42
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Corvette Weekend at Ocean City, MD October 12-14 |
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Free State Corvette Club's 21st annual charity fundraiser Corvette Weekend will be held the weekend of October 12-14 this year. We expect to have over 800 Corvettes registered for this event, with Fun Shows, Rallyes, Parties, and everybody's favorite: The Boardwalk Parade of Corvettes. Last year we put 627 Corvettes down the full length of the boardwalk in what was our largest parade ever. This year we're sure it'll be bigger still. Come on out and play with us!
This is a non-profit event -- all proceeds go to our very worthy charities, and we thank you so very much for your support and participation. Details: www.freestatecorvette.com See y'all there! Be well, SJW
Posted on: 2007/7/10 20:49
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It's time for some serious troubleshooting. You either need to get this car to a competent mechanic, or get a Factory Service Manual and learn to do your own work.
Start by fully charging the battery again. Get yourself a voltmeter. Measure the voltage at the battery. Fully charged, it should read at least 12.6 volts DC. If the car won't start with a charged battery, begin the troubleshooting process. Measure system voltage while attempting to crank. If it falls below around 10 volts, either the battery won't take a full charge, or there's a high resistance somewhere in the system. This can be chased down with a voltmeter, but you need to have a decent understanding of basic electricity and/or a troubleshooting guide in a service manual to sniff out such a problem. Be well, SJW Quote: Seeking anyone?s help in my dilemma.
Posted on: 2006/3/31 15:06
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RE:Brakes 101 |
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I too found the high pedal effort on my C4 to be a bit unnerving until I got accustomed to it.
Bottom line is: If you can stomp on it hard enough to activate the ABS, everything's probably normal. If you can't get into the ABS even when standing on the pedal, look for something that's amiss... Be well, SJW
Posted on: 2006/3/27 18:36
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RE:Installing vented Opti in '93 |
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If you haven't already purchased parts for this conversion, consider the DynaSpark instead. It's a direct bolt-on, and is better than any of the OEM Optis from GM. It will save you much labor, etc.
I installed a DynaSpark on my '94 back in 2004, and am very pleased with it. Be well, SJW
Posted on: 2006/2/10 18:50
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RE:I find it funny... |
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All good points except for the not very noticable difference between the looks. I have always thought the wide body made quite a difference in the ZR-1 and the wheels with the large deep rear end dish was always quite stunning. Under the hood was also quite and impressive look too! No argument here. I wasn't suggesting that the ZR1 looked no different or better than a base C4, only that at a glance, the average person wouldn't take any more note of the car than they would of a base C4. The Z16, however, really leaps out at even the casual observer. There have been times when I've seen a ZR1 from some distance, and not even realized that it wasn't a base C4 until I got a lot closer to it. I don't think that'll ever happen with a skunk... Be well, SJW
Posted on: 2006/2/5 18:58
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Believe me, I was bummed too that it all wouldn't transfer over, but it was something that needed to be done. It seemed like the forum feel flat on it's face after that and we have been chasing it ever since. If you're referring to the console lid repair how-to, no, regrettably I didn't think to shoot any pix during that repair, so all I had was text. If you're interested, I can shoot that text to you... Be well, SJW
Posted on: 2006/2/5 1:46
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RE:I find it funny... |
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I guess I've always been a bit of a contrarian.
I'll always admire the ZR1, but I don't aspire to owning one. But I'd have a skunk without hesitation. Preferably a ragtop with black guts, but with only 137 of 'em out there, I don't think it's too likely I'll ever end up with one of those. The Z16, BTW, is a bit more than just a paint job. Upgraded calipers, unique wheels, fender flares (on the targas), special embroidered upholstery, special emblems and badging, its own VIN sequence, etc. The fact that only 1000 Z16s ever existed makes it highly desirable, too (and quite a bit more than just a paint job) IMHO. The ZR1 is a legend. There can be no contesting this. But, given its complexity, parts-availability issues, the difficulty of finding anyone who knows how to do the work on one that I'm just not equipped to do, etc, it's one legend I'm content to admire when somebody else holds title to the car. If the ZR1's level of performance were my goal, I'd buy a Z06 or hotrod an LT1 or LT4. The fact that the ZR1 isn't all that visually distinct from the base C4 probably enters into the picture for me a little bit, too. A skunk will instantly grab anyone's attention, and the LT4's performance, while a half-tick below the LT5, is most impressive for a car of its era. I'd love to own one. Be well, SJW [size=18:23ca8d680c][/size:23ca8d680c][size=12:23ca8d680c][/size:23ca8d680c]
Posted on: 2006/2/3 21:17
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RE:Brakes 101 |
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WOw...thanks SJW! Glad to have your input...you need to come around more often! Maybe I will, now that things seem to have stabilized here. I was kinda bummed when all posts that had been made here (previous to the big changes were implemented) got dumped, and I haven't been back very often since then. I ended up re-typing at least one how-to (repairing the late-C4 console lid/cover) that I'd posted here, cuz somebody on CF was asking how to do it, and when I tried to refer them to the post I'd made about it on this Forum, it had vanished... Thanks for the kind words. I hope the how-to post proves to be helpful. Be well, SJW
Posted on: 2006/2/3 20:30
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RE:Brakes 101 |
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These guys have given you good advice, but I would suggest you go ahead and bleed the system, even though it's technically not likely to be mandatory.
Dot 3 brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it'll absorb moisture from the atmosphere. Over time, this contributes to corrosion within the hydraulic system, causing problems with calipers, master cylinders, rusted-out and ruptured steel brake lines, etc. The boiling point of DOT 3 will also lowered if it has taken on moisture, and that's not a good thing, especially in a car that's driven and braked aggressively (such as on a road course). Also, because of DOT 3's hygroscopic nature, you should always only use fluid that's in an unopened or well-sealed container. I only buy the smallest bottles of fluid, so that I don't end up storing a partial container that has a lot of air in it, and if I have a small bottle that's nearly empty, I won't use the remaining fluid after it's been stored. As inexpensive as DOT 3 is, I'd prefer to work from a virgin bottle. If you bleed/flush your brake system every year or two, it'll go a long way toward keeping the hydraulic system gremlins at bay. If you neglect to do this basic maintenance chore periodically, it'll eventually come back to bite you in the wallet. Since you'll be that far into it, with the wheels removed, might as well go ahead and bleed 'em while your at it. It's never easier than when the car's already in the air, and the wheels are off, so now's as good a time as any. As a bonus, if you disturb the bleeder screws every year or two, they'll never seize on you. Recommendation: Use a clean (virgin is best) turkey baster to suck the master cylinder reservoir dry. Crack each bleeder screw open for only an instant, then re-seat it. This is done only to make sure the bleeder isn't seized. If it is, the sooner you learn this, the better. If you end up needing to replace the caliper cuz the bleeder's seized, you'll be glad to find this out before you go any further. Remove the pads as outlined by Bruthish, and press the pistons fully into the calipers with the C-clamp (don't go crazy with the pressure, just push 'em all the way back in). This will force as much as possible of the existing fluid in the system back up into the M/C reservoir. Suck the reservoir dry again with the baster after pushing each piston back in, to make sure the M/C reservoir doesn't overflow and make a mess under your hood. You now have a system that has relatively little fluid remaining in it. Install the new pads, and mount & secure the calipers. Leave the wheels off for now. Before you step on the pedal (which would push the pistons back out again), gravity bleed the system. To do this: 1. Fill the M/C reservoir up with virgin fluid. 2. Put a length of hose on the bleeder screw at each wheel. This hose should be sized so that it will fit snugly over the bleeder, and stay put when you let go of it. I use clear plastic hose (polyethylene, if I recall correctly) that can be purchased at Home Depot / Lowe's in various diameters. For some bleeders, air line tubing that's used in fish tanks works well. The advantage to using clear tubing is that you can watch what's coming out of the calipers as it's bleeding. This allows you to check for air bubbles and to monitor how fresh (or not) the fluid is as it exits the system during the bleeding process. 3. Stick the loose end of each hose into a container to catch the fluid that will be released. 4. Crack each bleeder screw open. A quarter-turn or so should do just fine. 5. Crack a cold beer open. A quarter-turn or so should do just fine here, too. 6. Grab a chair. 7. Drink the cold beer. 8. Get up every 5 or 10 minutes, and check the M/C reservoir fluid level. Refill as it drops. Make sure it never runs completely dry, or air will enter the system, and you'll have a more lengthy bleeding process to remove it. 9. Repeat steps 5 through 8 until the fluid that's coming out of the bleeders looks as clear and fresh as the fluid you're putting into the system, then close the bleeders, remove the hoses and containers, and top off the M/C reservoir. Wipe residual fluid, if any, off of the calipers, etc so that none ends up on the tires. Brake fluid is NOT good for your tires. When you've finished bleeding the system, step on the pedal a few times, going only around 1/2 way to the floor with the pedal on each stroke (you're only going 1/2 way down so that you won't run the risk of tripping the warning light switch). After a few strokes, check the fluid level in the M/C reservoir again. What you're doing now is pushing the caliper pistons back out as far as they'll go, to their normal resting position. This will draw fuild out of the reservoir, so keep checking it to make sure it doesn't run dry. If it runs dry, it'll suck air into the system, and you'll have to repeat the bleeding process to get the air back out. Repeat this work-the-pedal / check the fluid level process until you get a firm pedal under your foot. If you neglect do do this process, the pedal will go straight to the floor when you step on it, cuz the pistons will still be recessed in the caliper bores. This can lead to Very Bad Things happening if you test drive the car before you've obtained a firm pedal -- it's the sort of nasty surprise nobody needs. Gravity bleeding is the lazy man's way to bleed brakes, and it requires no pedal pushing or special equipment. You don't have to recruit your wife to work the pedal while you work the bleeders, you don't need speed bleeders (they are pretty cool, though), and you don't need a pressure bleeder. Speed bleeders and pressure bleeders are faster, but if you're not in a hurry, gravity bleeding will get the job done just fine, and as far as I'm concerned, any job that will do itself while I drink cold beer is a fine job indeed. If the car has ABS, follow the procedure in the Factory Service Manual in order to achieve a full system flush/bleed. Be well, SJW
Posted on: 2006/2/2 21:16
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RE:Torsional Damper |
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There is a special Kent-Moore tool for this job, but it is indeed expensive, and unnecessary. If you do use an ordinary puller, be extremely careful that the tool does not damage the threads in the snout of the crankshaft. Take no chances with this, or you may well ruin a crank, or need to re-tap threads in its end. I've heard from quite a few guys who've made this painful mistake.
I had very good results with driving mine off from behind as described in my earlier reply, and I know that most of the guys I've had any dialog with who have removed one have done it the same way I did, so I'd suggest you at least try it first. Whichever approach you choose, best of luck with it. Be well, SJW [/i]
Posted on: 2005/10/25 18:51
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