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   All Posts (Strick)


(1) 2 3 »


Painting block
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Has anyone used caliper paint to paint the block? It seems to have a tougher smoother surface when dry. Thoughts?

Posted on: 2011/11/12 2:39
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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Here is a few shots of the heads.
Before
[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/48strick/head.jpg[/IMG]
during resurfacing
[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/48strick/head2.jpg[/IMG]
finished
[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/48strick/head1.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2011/11/12 2:21
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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Quote:

bam wrote:
Quote:

Strick wrote:
Got my heads back. Ken, of Pro Outboard, has a great shop for doing valve work and re-surfacing. The heads have new LT4 springs and oil seals. The surface is dead on flat and looks very shiney. The chambers measure out at 54cc's. Everything is set for the Hot cam. Now it's getting close to start wrenching. I have one more cruise and then I'll begin the set up for surgery.

Nice, got any pictures? Post some if you can.


Yes I do. I'll be posting them as I start the project. You guys on here are very observant and posting pictures sometimes sparks additional ideas or comments that I over looked. I'm putting together a complete checklist of removing the engine according to the FSM and other inputs. It will be interesting to see the additional items that my list has missed. I'm still having problems with the "Happy Hooker" and those small bolts in the intake. They just seem to be too small, but others swear by it.

Posted on: 2011/11/12 1:43
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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Got my heads back. Ken, of Pro Outboard, has a great shop for doing valve work and re-surfacing. The heads have new LT4 springs and oil seals. The surface is dead on flat and looks very shiney. The chambers measure out at 54cc's. Everything is set for the Hot cam. Now it's getting close to start wrenching. I have one more cruise and then I'll begin the set up for surgery.

Posted on: 2011/11/11 0:20
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Re: K & N Filters
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K&N filters are great for racing or high performance driving, but they just don't keep the throttle body as clean as the paper filter.

Posted on: 2011/11/10 23:47
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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I finally removed all the tangs at the bottom of the stud holes. The new ARP rocker arm studs fit just right. Now to get the opti-spark and the gaskets. I'll be taking the heads in for port matching to the intake next.

Posted on: 2011/10/9 19:57
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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Quote:

Stl94LT1 wrote:
Quote:

Strick wrote: GM left them on as the OEM studs are shorter than ARP studs and don't bottom out. It saves time on the assembly line.


I'm guessing that the ARP stud base is longer because many use these with guide plates.


Good thought, but I don't need guide plates. I'll just break off the pieces and move on. I expect the new studs this Monday. I'll let you know how they work out.

Posted on: 2011/10/3 0:28
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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Quote:

flyboy wrote:
Dumb question maybe, but do LT4 heads have threaded inserts on the rocker arm studs from the factory?


Absolutely.

I found out that the bottom of the insert is removable. You just use a small pair of needle nose pliers and break it off. GM left them on as the OEM studs are shorter than ARP studs and don't bottom out. It saves time on the assembly line.

Posted on: 2011/10/1 22:11
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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I received the ARP studs and the timing chain. I tried out the studs and found that they bottom out before the shoulder on the stud touches the head. So I immediately sent them back and ordered the ARP 134-7101 studs which are a touch shorter and should not bottom out like the 7104's did.

I looked at some thread inserts at work and noticed that the very bottom of the insert (where the part goes straight across the diameter of the hole, I guess it's used to install the insert) and it has a small notch which is used to break off the piece that goes across the bottom of the insert. In my LT4 heads, the inserts have that same piece going across the bottom of the insert. Along with that, I noticed that the LT4 OEM studs are shorter than the ARP studs (at least at the threaded part that goes into the head). Do you think GM just left that piece in there and shortened the stud to hasten the assembly process?

Posted on: 2011/9/30 19:48
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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I'm down to the timing chain, rocker studs, opti, and gaskets. Timing chain is narrowed down to the GM Extreme duty set GM pn 12370835. The rocker studs will be the ARP pn 070-134-7104 set which has a touch longer length, but only by .145". The opti will be a GM part for the 95 LT1 for around $362. I have the intake gasket figured out as there is a difference in the area they cover. I'll be port matching the intake to the heads and pn 12367777 intake gaskets won't block any of the porting areas. Next, I'll be sending my LT4 injectors out to be cleaned and checked. And lastly, will be the chip to PCM4Less. I'll list all of the parts I use and let you know how the project is progressing. Estimated start date.......November.

Posted on: 2011/9/22 18:13
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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Thank you Will. I'll do just what you suggest.

Posted on: 2011/9/16 1:05
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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FedEx showed up today with my Hot Cam kit. Now I'm really getting excited about this project.

Question, when replacing a cam, should the lifters be replaced on roller set ups?

Posted on: 2011/9/15 14:53
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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I found a good price on the GM Hot cam kit from Jegs Performance online and ordered it. Now I need the timing chain and opti along with the gaskets. I'm almost there. A great guy on the CF sent me his LT4 left overs (rockers, springs, studs and adjuster nuts, push rods, and fuel injectors) for just the shipping cost. Of course I sent a little extra to cover a beer or two. So, I'll have to decide on which rocker arms to use as the ones I got from my buddy look almost new. The LT4 set up is not adjustable and the hot cam kit rockers are adjustable. This is going to take some more thought.

Posted on: 2011/9/15 1:16
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Re: Pulling the engine on a 92 LT1 6spd manual
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Quote:

bam wrote:
Quote:

Strick wrote:
Is it easier to pull the engine by just disconnecting from the bell housing after supporting the trans? Or is it easier to just remove the trans then pull the motor?

Are you pulling the engine for a rebuild? If so what are you thinking in that direction? I will be pulling mine soon and need to do a rebuild and am trying to learn all I can before I start.


Here's my plan: I'm replacing the top end with a complete LT4 set up; heads, intake, and upgrading the opti to a 95 set up. I also would like to check out the bottom end as several guys have spun bearings doing this mod. I'm also going to use the GM Hot Cam as it is a proven set up. This plan is the results of desciding what I wanted out of the engine which is good drivablity with a little more fun in the fun pedal. I don't need the fastest Vette, but one with enough to keep up with the C5s in my club.

Here is another thread about my goals:

http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/ ... hp?topic_id=15544&forum=1

Posted on: 2011/9/13 1:39
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Re: Pulling the engine on a 92 LT1 6spd manual
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Thanks for the info. Who sells the Happy Hooker and how much is it? That 6 spd is one heavy puppy and not having to remove it would be nice. My clutch is in great shape along with the dual mass flywheel. I assume you guys removed the radiator to allow more room to move the motor.

Posted on: 2011/9/10 17:28
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Re: coolant air bleed pipe
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I'm glad I read this article about the "steam tubes" as I will be pulling my heads for an upgrade this fall/winter. It's looking more like I'll pull the motor and then pull the heads. Do you guys disconnect the tranny from the engine (at the bell housing) and then pull the engine or do you pull the tranny then pull the engine?

Posted on: 2011/9/10 13:57
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Pulling the engine on a 92 LT1 6spd manual
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Is it easier to pull the engine by just disconnecting from the bell housing after supporting the trans? Or is it easier to just remove the trans then pull the motor?

Posted on: 2011/9/10 11:56
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Re: drip tab question
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That's what I did, used a Dremel tool and a small cut off wheel. I like the Mag valve covers as you can powder coat them and they stay clean. Mine are even flamed. The standoffs are already in the mag covers.

Posted on: 2011/9/8 22:25
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Re: 160 stat
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Okay, I found where the VSS is tied into the cooling fan system. Look on page 6E3-C12-1 in the first paragraph under Primary Cooling Fan. I'm not finished as I'm still looking for the reference to the speed at which the VSS turns the fans off. I feel like I'm back in college.

Posted on: 2011/9/5 2:10
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Re: 160 stat
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I'll go back into the FSM and trace the circuit again, but I do remember finding the wire on the ECM that if sent to ground and signals the relay to turn the fans on. And I will find the VSS quote in the FSM that talks about turning the fans off at approx 35mph. Give me some time on this. It's a good topic to discuss again. I did a tech tips on it a few years ago, but I can't find it now. If I'm wrong I'll admit it and thank you for correcting me. I do want to be correct. Correct is better than BS.

Posted on: 2011/9/4 18:42
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Re: 160 stat
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One more tidbit of info, there is a VSS that tells the ECM to turn off the fans at about 35 mph. How do I know this? I put a manual set of switches in my cockpit that bypasses the ECM and grounds the signal to the relay that turns on the fans. If I forget to turn the fans off (back to normal) and I go above 35 mph the check engine light comes on which tells me the ecm senses a problem with the VSS.

Next, I, also, believe that a 160 stat does NOT reduce your operating temps. It just opens sooner. Once open, whether it's a 160,180 190, or 195, the stat is no longer controlling temps, unless you are driving in Alaska and the engine coolant drops below the stat temp. My theory is that when guys change to a 160 stat, they don't take into account that they are changing and flushing out the coolant which would probably allow the cooling system to work more efficently.

Posted on: 2011/9/4 14:51
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Re: I found a very effective paint stripper...
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Just so you know, I super cleaned my mag valve covers and sent them off to have powder coated. The guy even flamed them and they are so easy to keep clean. Before I sent them out I even polished them with a buffing wheel and they looked like polished aluminum, BUT, they only held the shine for a few months. That's why I went to powder coating.

Posted on: 2011/9/3 15:15
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Re: Convertable glass
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The best thing to do to keep that plastic rear window clear is to keep the UV sunlight off of it. I always use a pillow when I put the top down to help avoid those really small scratches which cloud the plastic.

Posted on: 2011/9/3 15:06
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Re: Zaino
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Zaino is a good product, it's just inconvenient to buy. I've been using Mother's and or Meguire's clay bar and followed up with Meguire's NXT. Works great. I went through a rain storm last week and the Vette didn't get dirty. Of course the back end accummulated the usuall debree, but it just wiped off with Meguire's detail spray. I,too, like it when you throw a micro fiber towel on the hood and it slides right off.

Posted on: 2011/9/3 14:59
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Re: LT4 heads question
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I already have this info and used this same article to help me develope my plan to convert to a totally authentic LT4. I just won't have the crank and pistons. Thanks for the info anyway.

Posted on: 2011/9/3 1:29
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LT4 heads question
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Do the holes where the valve stems pass through the heads, do they have brass or bronse inserts? If not, is this a good idea?

Posted on: 2011/9/2 21:23
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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The Charlotte Auto Fair was a bust. So far the best price on a GM Hot Cam Kit is $566 from GMPartsDirect. Anybody know of someone with a better price?

Posted on: 2011/9/2 0:47
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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Quote:

Steve40th wrote:
Quote:

95vette wrote:
Quote:

Steve40th wrote:
Quote:

95vette wrote:
Quote:

Strick wrote:
Quote:

95vette wrote:
If you are interested I have a used GenII opti off a running LT4 engine for sale very, very cheap.


Thank you , but this is one part I think I should start out with new. BTW, how cheap is cheap?


About $30.

If he doesnt want it, I'll take it.
Steve
email me at Steves396lt1@yahoo.com if so. Thanks


Steve, strick isn't interested, so email sent this morning.

Check, emailing you back now.


Do I get a commission on this sale?

Posted on: 2011/8/28 20:13
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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Next question, Do I need to go with LT4 knock sensors?

Posted on: 2011/8/28 13:07
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Re: Best way to get to Heater Core, bar none....
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One of the biggest reasons why so many C4s rattle and squeek is the heater core replacement. And yes the reason the part number is 000000000001 is because it's the first part down the assembly line. The rest is built around it.

Posted on: 2011/8/27 20:48
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Re: dielectric grease on ground wires
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I replace batteries at the local zone. We use a good battery cleaner spray to remove the green mushrooms that grow on the terminals. It works well. Then once clean, we try to brush the terminals (inside) so they are shiny. After installing the terminals we put the little package of corosion protector on the bare metal of the terminals to prevent corosion. Works well. Most corosion starts with a poor ground.

Posted on: 2011/8/27 20:42
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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Quote:

95vette wrote:
If you are interested I have a used GenII opti off a running LT4 engine for sale very, very cheap.


Thank you , but this is one part I think I should start out with new. BTW, how cheap is cheap?

Posted on: 2011/8/27 20:30
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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It's off to the AutoFair in CLT to see if I can find a vendor selling the Hot Cam Kit at a good price.

Posted on: 2011/8/27 13:03
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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I got another part today. The harness connection 92 to 95 opti. I've learned that the GM Hot Cam Kit is designed for the LT1 engine. So the rocker arms will be adjustable and the studs will be 7/16 base and 3/8 top and they are self aligning rocker arms. So, all is good so far.

Posted on: 2011/8/25 0:32
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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My next problem is the rocker arm studs. The LT4 heads have a 7/16-40 thread hole for the studs. If I buy a GM Hot Cam Kit, complete with roller rockers, springs, etc, What will the top of the stud be, 3/8" or 7/16" thread?

Posted on: 2011/8/24 0:47
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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Here is what I have so far:

[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/48strick/DSC_0357.jpg[/IMG]

Still need the Hot cam kit, 95 opti and all the gaskets.

Posted on: 2011/8/19 1:23
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Re: what do I put on the threads of the exhaust manifold bolts?
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I make sure I have enough thread to go into the head. Most headers come with 3/4" bolts. I used 1" S/S allen head bolts because my flange was thicker than most. The allen head makes it easier to torque each bolt. Also, use a quality thread chaser to clean out the holes. Gaskets, I use the "dead" aluminum or copper gaskets. No leaks in 7 years.

Posted on: 2011/8/18 1:16
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Re: LT1 fuel injection vs LT4 fuel injection
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One other thing, I thought the LT4 injectors were 28lbs

Posted on: 2011/8/16 11:18
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Re: LT1 fuel injection vs LT4 fuel injection
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Don't get me wrong, I do use the fun pedal and it's like flushing a toilet into my engine and the mpg disappears. If anyone else has done the LT4 heads and intake upgrade with a hotcam, what mileage do you get? I know with this upgrade not many are worried about gas mileage. Just curious.

Posted on: 2011/8/16 11:17
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Re: LT1 fuel injection vs LT4 fuel injection
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I'll be up in Carlisle, too. I'm flying up and going with my brother-in-law who owns a new Grand Sport. Might as well go in style. We'll hit the Sat show.

I did take a picture of my dash showing the incredible mileage. I'll have to find it. People don't believe my story," how can a 300 hp V8 get into the 30 mpg range" is what I get from non-believers.

Posted on: 2011/8/15 12:13
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Re: LT1 fuel injection vs LT4 fuel injection
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I will be honest that I personally drove my 92 LT1 (with roller rockers and shortie headers) from Washinton DC to Lake Wylie, SC, (near Charlotte) on 3/4 tank of fuel and averaged 36 mpg. And that was all cruise control at 65 mph. Also had new tires and the top up. At times my instantanous read out was in the 40's. I realize that after I complete this project of LT4 top end and a hot cam that I will never see that mileage again. But the fun pedal should be better. I found a site that showed all the differences between the LT1 and the LT4. That answered most of my questions. Thanks for the replies.

Posted on: 2011/8/15 0:34
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LT1 fuel injection vs LT4 fuel injection
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What are the differences between a 92 LT1 fuel injection system and the LT4 fuel injection system? Does it make a big difference in power and or fuel economy? What I thought I understood was the 92 has a batch system and the LT4 has a sequential system. What does that mean?

Posted on: 2011/8/14 20:20
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Re: ABS over size tires
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Quote:

istter1 wrote:
When I bought this 87 two years ago from a friend that had injured his back rims and tires had 10 miles on them. A few grand invested. I paid less then $5 grand for it. He paid a few grand for just the tires. Like we talked before the only major problem has been the hydrolic clutch system. Replacing the entire clutch have it done next week if all the parts show up. On trips 24-28 miles per gallon love it.

Thanks


Not to rain on your parade, but because of a larger diameter rear wheel, your odometer will register less mileage than actually travelled. So it will calculate out as better gas mileage, but not really.

Posted on: 2011/8/14 12:24
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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Thanks Will.
Here's another question, the LT4 piston has a different style of ring. Are there any other differences in the piston between LT4 and LT1? Will those rings fit on the LT1 pistons?

Posted on: 2011/8/14 12:05
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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Quote:

PeteK wrote:
Quote:

Strick wrote:
Quote:

rklessdriver wrote:
Quote:
The Cloyes PN 9-3545X9 is the best of the best


Billet gears, German IWS chain, 9 keyways....


Help me out here, 9 keyways? German IWS chain? I'm not up to speed on these characteristics.

Will is just stating it is a quality piece.
9 Keyways facilitate an easy way to phase the cam exactly where you want it.
Phase=Degree
Do yourself a huge favor and degree the cam.


I thought that was standard procedure, but thanks for the reminder. Okay the timing chain question is settled. Now how about the LT4 damper. It's a different part number than the LT1. Should I upgrade this too?

Posted on: 2011/8/14 0:23
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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Quote:

rklessdriver wrote:
Quote:
The Cloyes PN 9-3545X9 is the best of the best


Billet gears, German IWS chain, 9 keyways....


Help me out here, 9 keyways? German IWS chain? I'm not up to speed on these characteristics.

Posted on: 2011/8/13 12:40
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Re: Corvettes at Carlisle
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Quote:

biggrizzly wrote:
Quote:

JeffK wrote:
If anyone happens across the front fender to hood seals for $20/pr this year email me and I'll send you the money + shipping costs. All the vendors want $40 a set + shipping.


I'll keep an eye out. I can bring back something small like that. Nothing much more with the wife's luggage in the back of the vette. I'll take a pair of underwear and a toothbrush! She'll take the whole closet for two days.


You think you have limited storage, try out a vert.

Posted on: 2011/8/13 12:35
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Re: Corvettes at Carlisle
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I hope to fly into PHL and go with my brother-in -law who owns a new grand sport. Maybe Friday or Sat. I'll look for you guys. Where/who would be the best vendor to buy a GM Hotcam kit? Are the prices any better than catalogs? I hope the weather is good.

Posted on: 2011/8/12 16:19
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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No replies?

Posted on: 2011/8/12 15:56
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Re: Top end swap on my 92 LT1 to the LT4 (fresh start)
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Let's talk about timing chains. Remember I have an electric water pump and removed the gearing mechanism and plugged the hole. I'll have a GM Hotcam kit and a 95 timing cover with a 95 opti-spark. What is the current best set up? Thanks again.

Posted on: 2011/8/11 21:47
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