ok.. so my roommate just bought this car. its a 99 cl with a 2.3l vtec and a 5 speed. he was like take if for a spin, see if you can find anything wrong with it.. so i took it for a spin and getting out on the highway and put it to the wood. it got to 4500rpms and the rev limiter was already kicking in. i get back and i hooked it up to my scan tool. no codes. computer is showing vss, coolant, map, tps. the crank angle sensor ohmed out correctly. i changed the oil and filter.. it still wont rpm past 4500. i went to the honda dealer and a tech was like its a mechanical issue.. so i asked like what.. he said clean the vtec solenoid screen. then i was like what if its not that? then its the solenoid. ok. he seems to think its a vtec issue. and tells me i need to buy a better scan tool. but regardless of whether vtec is engaging or not it should still rev to redline? which is 6300rpms. i have cleaned the vtec solenoid screen which wasn't even dirty. and guess what it still wont rev.

Try clearing the system codes. I've had luck with this before on a different make and model.

Disconnect the battery. Turn the key to start position and hold it there for 20 seconds. This should burn off any residual charge in the system computer.

Then reconnect the battery, try anther rev limiter run, see if it engages at 4500 again, and then pull the codes again.

It may not change anything but I suspect it's a software or ECU problem, not a mechanical problem.

Wait is 2.3l in the CL VTEC? It is the same basic engine used in the Accord, not the Prelude. I am not so sure.

As for dying at 4500 RPM, I would bet it is caused by a bad fuel filter or pump.

If it was VTEC, it would reline much higher, like 7k, not 6300.

Now, it could have the economy VTEC. But for some reason, I don't think so.

If it had the VTEC system, it would require the following the engage:

1. engine up to op temp
2. apt oil pressure
3. throttle at proper position (floored, basically)
4. engine passing a set RPM.

For this engine, IF it has VTEC, should kick in at about 3500. On my 94 Prelude VTEC, it kicked in at 4800, but the engine relined at 7700!

the VTEC system is operated by oil pressure, so if the solinoid isn't getting the right pressure, it will never switch over.

Also, I think the engines are designed to not exceed the RPM with VTEC, because the lower cam profiles just won't move enough air to allow the engine to rev quickly. Sure, you can cruise up there, but don't floor it...

Try gently reving it up past 4500 and see what happens.

To fully debug the VTEC system, you will need a Honda scanner. Hondata has/had provided them in the past, IIRC. Or, let the dealer sort it out.

it is a vtec its says it in very large letters on the valve cover. i didn't just find a solenoid on the side of the engine and start cleaning it. its an f23a1 also used in accords. 6300 is the redline which is indicated on the factory tachometer. i am not just making up numbers. its not dying out, its hitting a rev limiter. i know the difference. the scan tool is reading that its in closed loop, its at operating temp and tps is working as it should. it will not rev past 4500 gradually or to the wood.. and what car would not rev to its redline by flooring it.. that statement makes no sense. i know the needed thresholds for vtec.. i was pretty certain from the start its not a vtec issue. i am thinking its a crank angle sensor but don't want to make him spend $200 and it not be the right thing.. its not showing any codes. its not storing any codes. i unhooked the battery for 15 minutes. it still wont rpm. i use to have a 1994 accord ex and it was speed limited at 125mph and while i lived in england myself and the cars speed limiter became well acquainted. and when it would hit the limiter it would kill the engine till it hit 120mph and would take off again not like a rev limiter that has a really tight on/off threshold.. this seems to have a large on/off gap when hitting 4500rpms. its definitely an electrical issue. just need to know what and how to diagnose it properly.

I am more familier with the H series VTECs.

The A series... those are the economy versions.

So I stand confirmed... it is a vtec, intake only.

The solinoid should be on the side of the head. IIRC, it was near the distributor. It shoots oil into an line that does the trick with the rockers and stuff.

Considering that you can't get past 4500 at all... that's interesting... I would have expected it to get up there at least slowly.

I have no idea but these sound similar:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/t311400.html

http://hondaaccordforum.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-23810.html

http://www.preludezone.com/4th-gen-ho ... s-after-4k-need-help.html

they are all saying oil level issues.. i just did an oil change in it and unhooked the battery.. a friend has a 06 civic and i was reading its live data in comparison to the cl's and they are just about the same. so i don't know.

i have a 1999 acura cl and when the engine light on and when it hit 3900rpm it ships why that

when it idels too it loading up with fuel please help me

it ships? It ships what? Or is that "skips?"

I do know that the intake manifold on the late 90s Honda/Acura will gum up. The EGR injection ports get carboned up, leading to all sorts of odd drivability issues.

It requires removing and tanking the intake over night to clean the ports.

With what you are describing, I would repair the intake as indicated above, clean the throttle body, clean the VTEC solenoid screen, change the oil with Mobil 1 and a GOOD filter, replace the fuel filter and see what happens.

it skips at 3700 rpm when engine light on

is the any codes i can get with out a compter to can i use the severise light to tell what codes

can you also rest the compter. I wish it was a 1.8 that what i use too race the thing it get me is the smoke after it load up with fuel

can i get a free repair manual on line?

so what else can i test to see if everything working.like i said when the engine light on it will skip at 3800rpm but if the light not on it fine. also it skips when you are ideling and it load up will fuel and smokes could someone one help please

Please enter your questions in one post. There is no size limit per post. This isn't Twitter.

As for a service manual, I found a few on ebay for about $60, free online? doubt it.

Autozone or Advance Auto should be able to scan codes.

Otherwise, follow my advice in my prior post, regarding the oil change, cleaning the VTEC solenoid and replacing the fuel filter (at the very least). I still suspect the intake manifolds EGR injection ports are part of the problem. This is very common.

Thank you God-Like Deity. I did everything you said and it was all dirty.I have another issue and that my dorr wont lock and it makes the car not to start.Is there anyway around it and dissable the secret

the door locks interfere with starting? New one on me.

My mom had one of those cars - a 1998 3.0 CL - and the doors had nothing to do with starting.

Do you have an aftermarket alarm? If so, I would start there.

Is it running better?

Quote:

Sounds like an aftermarket alarm.

....

I have a 1999 Acura CL 5 speed with some electrical issues. The heat dosen't work and I only have a few dashboard lights. None of the gauges work, and the windows don't go down. The fuel pump comes on when I turn the key on, and it can be jump started and it will run. I changed the ignition switch thinking that might have been the problem but it didn't change anything. Can someone please help me with this matter?

yea... you need 2 things... an Acura service manual and a DVM. I suggest a Fluke brand. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for.

It's time to do some basic diags and until those are done, your hosed.

I would also start checking the fuse panel.

Was this car flooded? How many miles?

There is also a good Acura CL site that I am sure can give you more... I used to be deep into Honda's, but not so much... they do have excellent electrical systems, so something has damaged this one. Any chance a critter got in? Mouse? Rat?