My air intake housing is cracked around the connector (see pictures below). The supposed correct replacement (I have one) isn't even close.

How would the gurus fix this? The ideal fix would be undetectable from the outside and not affect functionality.

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Get some JB Weld. I know it's for metal, but its strong stuff.

Mix it and put it on the inside plastic, like you would caulk it. Tape the plastic up to hold and let sit for 24 hours. Should be about perfect and the color, a darkish grey, will blend inside just fine.

I was gonna say black duct tape ....... nevermind .......
What about a strip of aluminzed tape (the metal tape they use on duct work) then paint it black.

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Yep. I've used it on ABS many times (keep the part above 55-60 degrees.

Do ypu have a vice, C-clamp that can squeeze the crack shut and still be able to get a hose clamp on it?

1. Spray the crack with a small ahot of BrakeClean and wipe the inside at the crack with BC sprayed on a papertowl.
2. Rough the inside of the area at the crack with 80 or whatever sandpaper about 1/4 - 3/8 on each side of the crack.
3. Get a hose clamp that's the dia. of the tube.
4. Take a piece of masking tape and put it on on side of the crack with 2 in. left hanging.
5. Mix the JB and put a little (sparingly) in the crack. Push the crach together with the C-clamp or vice. Put the rest of the masking tape on to keep the JB from squeezing out. If too much has sqeezed out, remove it with a papertowel saoked with a shot of BC. Then put the hose clamp on and tighten it just enough to keep the crack closed. Put additional JB on the inside covering the rough uped area (you can sand it later).
Let this cure with the crack pointed straight down because JB will flow until it cures.

Andy, more than metal, from JB:

What does it bond to?

Virtually any combination of iron, steel, copper, aluminum, brass, bronze, pewter, porcelain, ceramic, marble, glass, PVC & ABS, concrete, fiberglass, wood, fabric, paper -- just about any porous and non-porous material.

I was gonna recommend any one of the many 2 part epoxies out there.

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Yea, there's others out there. I have some 3M Structual Adhesive that's really good, it remains slightly flexable.
But it's like 5x the price of JB.

Thanks, all!

I already have JB Weld from a previous Bill H advised project, so I'll probably try that. Gotta get some appropriate clamps and some sandpaper.

Some of those 2 part things are incredible. Back before I was born my dad was given a chainsaw that some dude had run without oil. He took it apart and found a big groove in the cylinder. He bought a new piston and ring, etc, but if he had to buy a new cylinder it wouldn't have been worth fixing. He took some 2 part stuff, he just called it "forge" and filled in the groove in the cylinder and smoothed it out as best he could by hand. Once it set he honed the cylinder and put it all back together.

That chainsaw still runs to this day. In fact I have an identical saw that has been properly maintained and it doesn't run as good as the one he fixed. Amazing stuff.

If they make something that will hold up inside an engine cylinder for ~40 years I'm pretty sure you can find something to hold that together for a while.

I'd recommend 2 part epoxy and a hose clamp. Clean it well with some carb cleaner first.

Basically what Bill said is excellent advice.

Matthew

I prefer the JB Weld here... it will deal with heat better than epoxy, and has additional binding agents - think fiberglass - that will hold much stronger than just glue.

How about a plastic welder. Can get one cheap at HF. The right size hose clamp and weld it on the inside. Just my .02

I'm not sure if the JB Weld will stick, that's why I said epoxy.

http://jbweld.net/faq.php

Q: Is there anything that J-B Weld WON'T bond to?

A: J-B Weld will not adhere to, or bond well to:

* Any flexible rubber surface
* Leather
* Vinyl
* Canvass
* Polypropylene plastic
* Polyethylene plastic

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Note the first sentence in post 4.

If you choose to do epoxy, get some high heat, high strength.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Auto ... General_Purpose_Epoxy.htm

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Andy, that's good to 180*

JB's rated to 500*

yea, if the JB doesn't work... I couldn't find a mainstream brand that went hotter.

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Read post 4 & 13.

Hit a deer with my pick up.

JB'd all the ABS (radiator panels, ABS panels that hold the headlights, the plastic grill, the headlight reflectors and the fender well.

I keep this in the shop, really good stuff, remains a but flexable. But it's $30.

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OK... so JB Weld will work... and please note, I recommended it first, but then all this uncertainty started to creep in.

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Correctly noted.

Uncertainty can be proceded by "I guess..." , "I haven't tried it but..."

When you're right, you're right. Remember that the nesx time you go to the Streets of Willow and you "commit" to that first corner.

The way I figure it, and I commit to that first corner and end up in the dust, I didn't commit with enough, uh, commitment.

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I always look at my driver's hands.......to see if his knuckles are white.

Finally gotto this earlier today - I'll report on the results tomorrow.

Used the JB Weld and followed BillH's instructions. Took a look at it this morning and it was stable enough to install.

Thanks, all!

yay!