Ok guys I have the engine out of the car, I was thinking about going back stock. But I really would like to stroke it out to a 383. Like always I need help with this issue. If you guys would please help me make a list of all the things I need to do and buy to make this happen. Like what kit to use, heads, headers, intake,what size TB and so on. I am spending anywhere between $1000/$2000 right now, also looking to get 350/400HP out of engine if I can. Also when listing could you please tell me where to get the items at and around about price. PLEASE AND THANKS GUYS FOR ALL THE HEPL !!!

welp... lets see.

I will be blunt: YOU DON'T NEED A THROTTLE BODY. The stock 48mm will flow nearly 1000 CFM. I just don't understand why people want to waste money on the damned things.

For rotating mass, you have options. SCAT, Eagle, Carillo...

But let me outline what I would do:

1. Read this thread regarding an exhaust system

2. Don't buy junk parts. Cheap Chinese stuff is questionable at best... and fatal at worst. You will want forged aluminum piston.

3. You need a great machine shop. You are close enough to Atlanta to get that done. I always suggest the same thing - go to the local cruise ins and find out who those guys use or to the local short track and find out who they use. Whatever the selection, get the block relieved for the stroker kit and I would highly suggest getting it converted to a 4 bolt main. You want durable. That is what matters.

4. Intake... that will need upgraded... The mini-ram or super ram are good options. On the budget, tho, you can do an LT1 intake conversion. Works quite well.

5. Cam... there are others who are better qualified for that than I

6. Heads... you can spend a ton on heads. Trick Flow, AFR, Dart, Edelbrock, porting yours... whatever the choice, it ain't gonna be cheap. So this is where you can start getting picky. I will let Cuisinartvette chime in here, too. He knows heads. Get aluminum, tho.

7. Tuning. You will have to get bigger injectors and then have the computer tuned to go with them.

8. A properly built 383 will make 450hp, easy. You will want to consider transmission upgrades, especially if you have a 700R4.

I would guess abotu 5-600 in block work, $1500 for a forged rotating ass'y with good parts. Remember the little stuff..Timing set,cam/lifters, dampner, oil pump, pushrods, injectors, tune, etc etc. Thats the stuff that adds up.

Heads...Aftermarket is best, and although I take some flack for it Im partial to AFR, they are the best for the money.

However, I would be happy to port your heads and intake if you are looking to save a few $$. Any machining/parts at cost +0 Shoot me a pm if interested.Heads come with a flow sheet, not numbers written on a piece of paper.

Quote:

LOL! 1000CFM?? I gotta see a link to this.

Parts add up big time.

For the rotating assembly, check out cnc motorsports. For your price range, you're going to be looking at Scat and Eagle products. You can save some money going with a cast crank and hyper pistons.

There's a good engine builder down near you. He's outside Reynolds and the Macon area. I can't remember his name since I am not down there. However, he does advertise at Reynolds and people do know him. So basically, save your time and money and don't come into ATL. You don't need anything that requires that trip.

For parts, decide which brand and styles your going with, then shoot me the part numbers. I'll see what I can do. Your budget is going to dictate your part selection heavily. Honestly access your goals for this car and spend your money wisely on the bottom end first if the budget is getting tight. While it sucks, it's still cheaper and easier to swap to a killer set of heads, which costs lots of money, at a later date than to pull the bottom end and upgrade it.

You have many choices since this is nothing exotic that you're trying to do. As mentioned, don't forget all the little things. They add up quickly.

Also, go ahead and calculate in a transmission build and stall converter. What gear ratio do you have out back?

Quote:

The stock TB will flow very well. It's 48mm per barrel. Think about this: The Corvette C6.R is restricted to 37mm per intake, just about 1.3", and they make over 600hp on that.

Trust me, you don't need a big TB.

I will retract the 1000 CFM, tho. It was something I quoted from memory related to stuff I read on CF a long time ago. Apparently I either misremembered or was given bad info. Either way, it was wrong.

http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/gm-eproms/buildup/throttle-body/

The stock 48mm TPI TB will flow, according to that info, nearly 670 CFM. That's a lot of air, more than a Holley 650 4bbl carb.

Trust me, you don't need a big TB to get good power, I don't care what the marketing wonks say.

Since I don't race my car I built my 383 with brand name parts from an ebay seller called "racersoutlet". Type the name in the seller search feature and his store will come up. I used a cast crank and hypereutectic pistons. I was going to have to buy pistons no matter what I did because of worn bores, the stroker crank was very little $$ more than what machining of the stock crank was going to cost. The harmonic balancer and flexplate were the only added expenses and they weren't priced bad at all.

Quote:


It depends on what is behind the TB too. Ford has been using 100+ mm TBs for a few years now. VMax Motorsports started making a 100mm TB for the gen3/4 motors a couple years ago( 110mm will be available soon). People questioned Pete(owner of Vmax) then with essentially the same arguments you gave. After they lost repeatedly to the cars using his TBs, they switched. 670cfm is a lot for a tuned port because the intake is crap and the cam is tiny. Put a 48mm on a miniram or LT1 sitting on top a healthy 383 and your choking the engine because those intakes flow very well compared to your tune port. You have to look at the total package including what heads/valves are on the engine. You must maintain velocity but at the same time ensure you're getting enough volume.

I agree, but CFM is CFM, and a nice 4bbl carb will run 400 cubes at 650 CFM.

That's A LOT of air.

Quote:
My 94 has the stock throttle body on it, i have a log here that shows it sucking down over 240 grams a second at only 55% throttle. If i needed more, i could push harder on the pedal i reckon.