They'd probably have a nice business just selling their distributors to replace the optispark and have an LT1 intake swap program to get an intake with the proper hole milled.

Have you shopped around to different banks or credit unions? Here at one of the larger local credit unions, they will finance the vehicle regardless of year, just has to be under 100K miles.

I'm moving to the east coast, Rhode Island specifically, but I imagine the baseline emission numbers are similar. My engine produced similar numbers with the LT4 Hot Cam.

I've registered outside the emissions area for the last several years to avoid testing. Unfortunately that is not a possibility in RI (statewide testing).

Tom Wong already spent a fair amount of time tuning- I could probably do a bit more work, but at this point, the exhaust is still pretty foul, even with cats.

I think if I really want to pass, the overlap must be reduced. Or form an LLC in a state without emissions, and transfer the ownership of the vehicle to the company so it is registered in that state.

Here's a silly question- say a poor sucker moves to an area where emissions testing cannot be avoided and he has a moderately modified motor- 383 with ported heads and intake, larger valves, larger TB, large cam, bigger rockers, etc.. Could he get away with simply downgrading the cam, or is our friend totally up sh!t creek since the flow dynamics have been completely altered?

The other option being considered is to grab an LT1 from ebay to pass emissions with, but that's a fair bit more work.

I just received a new clutch slave (92-96), made by Rhino Pac from RockAuto- it is the cast design, FWIW.

According to Chris May @ Superior, GM has discontinued the 92-96 slave now.

I might be moving to RI in a few months, wondering what their safety and emissions test is like. From what I gather it is state wide so I can't get away with registering outside the inspection area.

I have no AIR, no EGR, long tubes (with cats), etc. Is that going to be a problem? I've kept most of the stock parts so I can pass if their visual is like CA.

My quick searching did not turn up any hard numbers for the sniffer test, but my nose tells me my CC467 won't come close to passing their idle test so that'll probably have to come out.

What do they think about lowered vehicles? I'm about 1.5"+ lower than stock.

Anything else?

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Me too- if it was as simple as buying stuff and bolting it up, I'd be down.

I've read a couple accounts of people installing coil-overs and the word "transformed" always seems to come up.

I like the Hardbar setups, especially their 2.25" dual rate progressive springs.

My QA1 are only singly adjustable, I believe- I'd have to dig through my receipts to verify. They were not terribly expensive, so that's a good guess.

Wheels and tires were balanced maybe 2K miles ago- but that was at least 3 years now.

Alignment was set for "aggressive street" which I grabbed from CF about 3-4 years ago (maybe 5K miles ago).

As I write this, it feels more and more like I have a few things to do! Most of which are cheap or free, which is a good place to start.

What would it take to keep the tires planted to the pavement on uneven surfaces? The front-end skipping all over the place is very unnerving and in some cases has been dangerous. My shocks (QA1), wheel bearings, bushings and other suspension components all seem fine.

What seems to happen is the front-end gets upset, gets light and then the rear end likes to follow. In this case I was aggressively accelerating on to the highway, went over a transition strip that occurs on a banked slight curve, which caused momentary steering loss, followed immediately by the rear kicking out to the right. I've got a few issues going on here, I realize, but this was not an aggressive bump by any stretch. I've had minor cracks in pavement cause this in similar situations, but don't affect other vehicles to anywhere near the same degree.

Where can I start?

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A good set certainly will. I've got a pair of older JL 8W3 in the rear speaker locations and they do quite well at all reasonable frequencies. They are certainly a compromise though, there is no debating that.

Please... It was not an Iranian SHIP. They were single outboard engine BOATS. We get screwed at the pump because some Persian dumbasses want to play chicken with a Navy ship. Nice.

You can look no further than Washington DC and Wall St for our fuel price woes. I can't wait for Fox News to report about oil traders start jumping off buildings to their death when the prices crash. These prices are unsustainable.

Parts add up big time.

For the rotating assembly, check out cnc motorsports. For your price range, you're going to be looking at Scat and Eagle products. You can save some money going with a cast crank and hyper pistons.

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LOL! 1000CFM?? I gotta see a link to this.

It looks to me like you're getting ignition noise coupled into the gauge. I'd start with checking the grounds and connections- make sure the resistance from the engine to the body and to the negative terminal is all close to zero ohms. Try adding grounds and see if the problem changes. Do you hear an RPM dependent whining in your speakers when you have the stereo on (volume set low)? Did you recently change plugs or wires? Do they need to be changed?

Lots of great information Josh! Thanks!

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At some point the FAQ will need some serious organization. Most other car forums use a system where subjects are broken down into links that split off to other threads, or new posts in the thread. I think that method makes the information much more usable so a person doesn't have to sift through many paragraphs to get at what they want..

Thanks for the reply. How much transmission noise do you get with the clutch pedal released in neutral? What about during acceleration? I have a pretty choppy idle, so I know that is aggravating the situation, but I'm hoping I can tune some of that out. However that doesn't address that acceleration clatter.

How much does your steel flywheel weigh?

I'm going to be taking out my McLeod Street Twin and going to a stock setup. Who makes a good street clutch that can live behind 450HP+? What parts have you guys had good luck with?

I will be driving the Vette daily for the foreseeable future so something a bit more streetable is what I'm after.

How much for the pink bikes?

I got curious what TunerCAT actually changed when toggling off the VATS switch and I was surprised to see that it was nothing!

I used a hex compare program and I saw no change having the switch on vs off. This was a bit of a surprise, and explains why VATS still prevents me from starting the engine from time to time.

Anyway, I was just grasping at straws since I really do not enjoy tearing into the dash... I much prefer working in the engine bay!

All these acronyms...

Does anyone know if the VATS has to be enabled for PKE to work in the later PCM/CCM systems (I've got a 95)? You guys that have programmed out VATS, does PKE still work? I have been reading through a lot of the diagnostics in the FSM and nothing mentioned it, but then again, the FSM assumes a certain bit of factory "correctness" to be fully applicable.

I'd like to figure this out before I start opening up the dash. I cannot trigger programming mode or diagnostic mode which has brought up my suspicion about VATS since I have it disabled in the PCM...

My 383 while yet to see the rollers but on paper my combination should make north of 470HP at the flywheel. I've had Flowmaster and Magnaflow in the past and went back to the factory mufflers. I've since gone to Corsa and couldn't be happier (this is all with EM long tubes and their RT cat extension pipes). The grin on my face and seat-of-the-pants tells me the power left on the table won't be missed, and neither will the resonance.

Mine has been off for a while- but what is in the way? I would think that after removing the AIR tube and removing the oil pressure sender you should be good to go. You may only have to rotate the sender out of the way- I wish I could remember.

Case- thanks for the offer! I forgot all about this! I got my updated definition from TunerCat today- man I was missing a lot of stuff!

That code 84 was related 3-2 kick down... I had incorrectly assumed it was related to CAGS since the PCM has the A4 disabled, but that was incorrect.

I noticed in TC's FTP directories he has a beta tuning program- I wonder what that will look like?

I'm glad to hear you're not going anywhere! The information you put on your site is the best I've ever seen when it comes to getting a person that is new to programming the LT1 PCM up and running with all the important information, and talking about what ACTUALLY needs to be changed. It seems that in the LT1 crowd, there isn't as much information shared as you see on TGO with the TPI stuff- maybe I'm just not looking hard enough. But to stumble across your site was great- I can't even remember what my search was, but I think it was searching for information about VEMaster.. Gotta love Google!

And Andy- I wasn't referring to Guru going anywhere, I was referring to Solomon's site going away- changing names, consolidation, URL changing, government cover up conspiracy, etc.. Anyway, I got a little too excited.

Well, I mean the information... Websites go TO or change their domain all the time.

I added this GREAT LT1 PCM tuning link to the tuning FAQ:
http://www.lt1pcmtuning.com/tips.php

Perhaps someone could ask the owner of the information if we can archive it here, should the link disappear?

Here is a GREAT resource for newbs:

http://www.lt1pcmtuning.com/tips.php

I've never found LT1 PCM tuning information explained so well.

I think my definition may be pretty old- I don't have a box dedicated to code 84, or disabling the auto trans in my switch list. I sent an email to TunerCat on Froday, but no word yet.

It is a relatively minor issue, but it forced the issue of getting an updated definition file.

I've disabled the CAGS code in TunerCAT, but I'm still getting code 84. WTH?

Anything special I need to mess with besides unchecking the ECM switch?

I noticed I'm using a really old definition file, and I can't find the one I actually paid for, and TC has changed the password on the latest files, so I'm waiting on that for now.

How many miles does it have out of curiosity?

He says is shifts smooth, so if he's honest, that covers the syncros.

You might make sure it's been kept up with the correct oil- ask him when was the last time it was changed and with what fluid.

Also find out why it was pulled- accident?

I've got it installed on my '95. I'll take some pics and post them later this afternoon when I'm done working. I've got the car in the air right now, so it is good timing.

The bulk of the cable was zip-tied to the brake lines on the driver side and brought up along the frame rail into the engine compartment.

Also, for other people's information, the battery voltage is fused and controlled by a relay which is actuated by the stock wiring harness. There are no dangers associated with this setup.

Do you need just the trans or are you doing a conversion? Have you seen the NEW ZF6s on ebay for about $1400?

I bought mine to do my conversion from ebay, and it worked out fine.

It's always a risk buying a used trans, especially when you're looking at units with 90K on them.

A stock or lightly modified engine should be fine with the throttle body it left the factory with. Bolting on a larger throttle body will not increase power or upper RPM performance as much as the advertisements would lead you to believe unless the engine can actually use that extra flow capability.

My 350 LT1 with stock heads, LT4 hot cam, headers and exhaust made almost 350HP at the wheels using a stock throttle body, so it can support some decent HP.

My new 383 has ported heads, intake, larger camshaft, headers, etc, all chosen for higher RPM power, needs a larger throttle body. I didn't do any calculation to see what exactly is required, but guys running the stuff I have typically use a 52mm throttle body at a minimum.

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All the above.

Issues:

- bores were lightly pitted
- bore smoothness was far from OEM- just rough cut
- blades do not sit perfectly in the bores (do not seal)
- blades like to stick when returning to idle
- received with cutting debris in the bores

Most of these are more cosmetic/quality issues, but for the $220 I paid at the time, it was unacceptable. The first TB I got from these guys suffered from the same issues, so these problems were not a one-time fluke.

It has been over a year, and the guy is still selling these things, so maybe he is starting with better cores and have increased quality to stay in business. One would hope.

I'm looking forward to replacing it with a quality piece.

If you're gonna build a time machine, why not do it with some style?

God I love those movies!

They are very light scuffs, they do not catch a finger nail.

The pistons were clean, after I cleaned off all the unburned fuel residue. It was running a bit rich and I couldn't keep it running good enough, long enough to fine tune my PCM4Less tune, much less drive it down to TJWong for him to work on.

I had to tear it down because the head bolts were not torqued down and the head gaskets were leaking. The builder swears he torqued them down...

I enhanced the colors and brightness to make these show better- they don't catch your finger.

Only 300 miles of use. Think this is something to worry about?

PIC

Their website has them for $395 on sale, but ebay has them for $295 (the vendor is AS&M)!

I just scored one for myself, they can be had here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Arizon ... tem?hash=item170199685419



I'm just passing this along for any of you guys that might need a larger TB.

The bored out OEM throttle bodies on ebay are a disappointment (I've had two of them- had to send the first one back).

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I know what you mean... So what's another $160?

Another option if you have some money burning a hole in your pocket is to get the OEM 96 valve covers (they will clear roller rockers without modification).

Why does he take his shirt off and proceed to walk like he's a male model? I had a good laugh for sure!

My brother sent me this- it's pretty funny. Or maybe I'm just gitty because the weekend starts in 90 minutes...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9gth09KEdkQ&NR=1

:thumbleft:

I'll add that JL 8W3's fit great in the rear speaker location.

Looks like a complete rip off of the Alfa Romeo 8C Competizione rather than the 599, IMO.

It just finished- BIG THANKS! :thumbright:

Thanks guys! I got my parts ordered up yesterday.

Ray, I'm downloading your PDF as we speak- at 190MB something tells me it will be very useful! Thanks!

Does anyone have links to factory part number lists, LT1 specifically? I'm looking for some odd things that my usual sources are not turning up. In particular, I'm looking for the crossover tube, banjo bolts and sealing washers.

Having a database of part numbers would be useful anyway- that would make a good addition around here.

Actually, that caliper adapter for the 84-87 C4.

For the '92, you need one like this.

Exotic Muscle has a pair on Ebay here- though I've seen them much cheaper.

Here is a link to a drawing a saved a while back that has the dimensions for 88-96 caliper brackets here

I'm sure if you found a machine shop willing to do onesy-twosy type stuff, you could get these made a lot cheaper.

So the SVT injectors are not the pink tops that Midnight mentions? Are they SVT as in SVT Cobra or the Ford Racing injectors (could be the same thing for all I know)? I've been looking at the Ford Racing 30# injectors, pn M-9593-B302.

I notice the pricing for these injectors is all over the place- MSRP from Ford Racing is $239 (link), but most vendors charge upwards of $300 for them.