All Posts (Midnight85)
Re: Stupid question. |
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That's what I figured, thanks.
Posted on: 2009/12/7 4:52
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Stupid question. |
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I think I know what the answer is but here goes, Just how critical is the paper gasket that goes between a one piece rear main seal and the block?
Posted on: 2009/12/7 3:04
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Re: What Engine Would The Guru's Build? |
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In that case, go BIG! There's no substitute for cubic inches.
Posted on: 2009/9/22 12:38
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Re: fuel rail connections |
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Quote:
That is correct, I have just bought mine to do away with the rubber factory hoses.
Posted on: 2009/9/22 12:34
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Re: What Engine Would The Guru's Build? |
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If it were me I'd drop in an LS6. Driveability, economy, and should come close to your goal at the track without any mods.
Posted on: 2009/9/22 12:28
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Re: How to remove front bumper cover ?? |
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I stand corrected, the later C4 must have used different sized screws. The 7 & 10 mm. I referred to were on my '85.
Sorry for any confusion.
Posted on: 2009/9/15 12:51
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Re: cut filter lid leaf guard '91 |
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Very clean, you do good work.
Posted on: 2009/9/15 12:46
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Re: How to remove front bumper cover ?? |
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No big deal at all, 7 & 10 mm screws and a lot of them. All the way across the top, down the sides and across the bottom. Takes maybe 1/2 hour to remove, maybe a bit more to re-install. If the front park/turn signals need anything now is the time to do it.
Posted on: 2009/9/14 21:55
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Re: well heres one |
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Pappy, you don't have to explain memory loss to me, I'd forget my arse if it wasn't attached.
Posted on: 2009/9/14 0:42
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Re: well heres one |
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Pappy, do you have the factory service manual for your car? If so check on the reason of losing fuel pressure. If not try Google, it might be able to come up with something for you. It does sound like pressure is going away but I have never had any experience with that so I'm not much help am I.
As for the shit dealers, it does seem like more & more of it is happening here, I was hoping those attitudes would stay with the Corvette Forum. You are who you are, no need to defend that and it really shouldn't be a factor here anyway.
Posted on: 2009/9/12 14:48
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Re: any way ta run two filters |
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Like I said in your other post, I don't know squat about crossfires but if you can fabricate an air filter bottom to fit the throttle body and find a way to hold them down you'd be home free. Give it a shot and be the first!
Posted on: 2009/9/12 4:16
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Re: well heres one |
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Sorry Pappy without more info the only thing I might suggest is new plugs & wires. Time to do some testing to see what ails the old girl. I don't know squat about crossfires but have heard the throttle bodies can get out of adjustment and cause problems. Good luck!
Posted on: 2009/9/12 4:11
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Re: Diagnose Tick |
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A leak between the header and the head will sound just like what you describe. It is a very small leak but should be fixed. I use Percy's XX carbon gaskets and they work beautifully. I get mine at Summit.
Posted on: 2009/9/2 14:16
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Re: alternator on an '85 auto |
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Quote:
I can see where the little red light would increase your pulse rate, mine never drops that low so you do have something going bad.
Posted on: 2009/8/18 2:08
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Paging Pete K, squeak, part 2 |
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Hi Pete,
I was finally able to get the time to get the trans out of the car, there is nothing wrong with the front pump including the rotor. The only thing I found wrong was the small cone shaped mesh filter that goes into the side of the pump was not snapped it place. It wouldn't snap into place so I replaced it with another one I had. No shavings anywhere in the pan or otherwise. Can it be the torque converter? Externally the converter looks perfect so where do I go from here?
Posted on: 2009/8/18 2:00
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Re: alternator on an '85 auto |
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Dan, my '85 does exactly the same thing with the load on it the way you describe. 14.1 cold then turn on a/c & lights and it's down around 12.7. Turn everything off and it goes up to 13.8-13.9 Either we're both perfectly okay or both have weak alternators. As to your question about the bigger amp alt. if this one goes I will definitely change to the higher amperage. The reason I didn't earlier on is because the first change was right fter I got the car and the second change was enroute from Illinois to Atlanta and they would only replace it with the same as was on the car due to core charge. Personally, as long as mine is still showing that it is charging, even at 12.7 I will not replace it, however, I watch the gauge closely for anything out of order.
Posted on: 2009/8/17 1:19
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Re: alternator on an '85 auto |
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Hi Dan,
Just an FYI, the '85 came with a 120 amp alternator. My '85 has had three of them replaced since I got it in '99
Posted on: 2009/8/16 20:44
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Re: Question for PeteK |
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Thanks Pete.
Posted on: 2009/8/10 1:24
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Re: Question for PeteK |
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I was afraid it was something nasty. IF I tear it down right away can the rest of the trans be saved? It seems to be just fine, however it does seem to be a bit soft shifting. Do you feel I can get by with just a rotor assembly or has the crack scored the pump? What do you think cracked the rotor? The engine has a slight cam in it so the idle is set about 800 rpm, will putting it in gear at this rpm do it?
Posted on: 2009/8/9 23:28
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Question for PeteK |
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Hi Pete, I've got an annoying problem, I have a Vette 700R4 in my El Camino. The car has developed a squeak which I believe is coming from the torque converter area. This is an assumption because anyone who has looked at it cannot pinpoint the exact location. It can be heard best under the hood and especially under the car. I won't go into everything I have already checked. What I need to know is if there is anything in the converter/front pump that can squeak? This squeak occurs whether the trans is in gear or not but only at a low rpm. It will squeak around 650-700 rpm but as soon as I raise the idle it stops. Everything is working exactly as it should and the oil level is perfect.
Posted on: 2009/8/9 19:04
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Re: 84 z51 air con |
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Pappy, with a leak that small, the only way you are going to find it is to have a professional shop inject an ultraviolet dye in the system, run it, and check the whole system with an ultraviolet light. The leaking area will glow under the light.
Posted on: 2009/5/13 13:42
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Re: rear shocks 84 z51 |
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Mine were the black ones also and they've been on the junkman's pile now since last fall. I can understand you wanting to soften up your '84 they were rough riders. Personally I like the firmness of my '85, I drive by the seat of my pants and like the feel the Tokico's have given the car.
Posted on: 2009/5/12 2:12
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Re: rear shocks 84 z51 |
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Pappy, I wish I had caught this thread earlier. I just pulled 4 almost new Monroes off my car because they are as Bogus says, pure junk. You could have had them free. I replaced them with Tokico's and am extremely happy with them. My car had the original Bilsteins on it when I got it and they were worn out, I put the Monroes on and put maybe 2-3 thousand miles on them and never was happy. I settled on new Tokico's after a lot of deliberation and the car now handles like it was meant to. They are a bit firm but an '85 Z-51 is not a luxury car anyway.
Posted on: 2009/5/11 12:26
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Re: What household product can I use for a radiator flush? |
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Since you are impatient, I am probably too late, lol, but CLR is the only household product I would even consider.
Posted on: 2009/4/30 13:49
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Re: If you want to keep your engine running, step in...If you are a newbie, step in.... |
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I've even had a bad experience with a Fram fuel filter. The inside came apart blocking the fuel flow, since it was only a week old I was all set to change out my fuel pump but my local NAPA man talked me into checking the filter. I owe him one. I use nothing but Wix on the Vette & my El Camino, the wife's Buick gets AC-Delco.
Posted on: 2009/4/23 14:25
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Re: C4 Bumper help needed |
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I was speaking from the experience of having my own car repainted, obviously VtVette has much more experience. I would do what he says. I was afraid to sand mine down with a da so I spent many days with a sanding block and 600 grit paper, now I see I could have saved myself a LOT of time. Thanks VtVette for the guidance.
Posted on: 2009/4/21 14:53
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Re: C4 Bumper help needed |
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It is B.S. especially on the C4 bumpers, they are so prone to warpage. You can get the flex additive the same place you get your paint.
Posted on: 2009/4/21 2:19
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Re: C4 Bumper help needed |
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I used 600 grit sandpaper, wet. DO NOT use any kind of stripper, it will melt the urethane. This includes fibreglass stripper.
Posted on: 2009/4/20 2:02
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Re: Name That Motor |
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All 17 correct!
Posted on: 2009/4/3 14:03
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Re: GAME ON! Trivia is in here! April 2, 2009 |
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Quote:
d
Posted on: 2009/4/3 2:11
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Re: Cleaning Fog Lamp |
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Quote:
Mine were bad enough I got new ones and then got some of the clear film, (cleartastic by 3M) off ebay so I wouldn't have to worry about them again.
Posted on: 2009/3/28 18:53
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Re: Considering a color change... |
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I changed my '85 from metallic gray which was badly faded to black. I had to remove the front & rear bumper covers, the rear glass, doors and everything in/on them, rockers, taillights, headlight assemblies off & taken apart, front driving lights, moldings, weatherstrip and probably many other small items. All this just so NO ONE can tell the car was ever anything but black. I'd stay with the original color if I had it to do over,
Posted on: 2009/3/28 14:35
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Re: Rocker help |
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CFI-EFI wrote:
[/quote] With a hydraulic cam, all you are setting is the amount of preload on the plunger inside of the lifter. Whether 1/4 turn, a half turn, 3/4, or even a full turn makes no difference on how the engine will run. If it is quieter at 1 turn (for some unknown reason) than at 3/4, leave it there. Because with a hydraulic cam all you are setting is preload, the hydraulic lifter automatically, constantly, adjusts the lash to zero, the temp isn't an issue. I hope that helps. RACE ON!!![/quote] I was hesitant to go one full turn after zero lash but 1/4 and 1/2 didn't get the noise out. Only until I read the article by Crane on lifter adjustment again did I try the full turn. It definitely made a difference but I am unsure why.
Posted on: 2009/3/27 14:07
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Re: The best $100 spent on the Vette? |
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Brake bias spring from Doug Rippie. BillH, if you're interested, take the perforated headliner and put it and a clean terrycloth towel in the dryer with no heat and let it tumble for about 15-20 minutes. Take it out and put it on, it'll seem like it's got glue on it.
Posted on: 2009/3/26 14:32
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Re: Rocker help |
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I prefer to run the valves with the engine off and I have never had an issue doing it that way but there is absolutely nothing wrong with anesthes' procedure either. First off, are you running a hydraulic cam? A solid lifter will make noise because of the the lash setting. Here's a procedure I use. Starting at number one cylinder I turn the engine until number 1 intake valve is almost closed, at this point I set the exhaust valve. Then run the engine over until the exhaust is just starting to open, this is where you will set the intake. Check with the lifter mfgr. and see what preload setting they recommend, Crane suggests 1/2 to 1 turn after zero lash. I had to do the full 1 turn on my engine but there is no valvetrain noise. Also don't mistake injectors clicking for valvetrain noise. I had some Ford pinktops in mine for a while that were very loud.
Posted on: 2009/3/26 14:23
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Re: Aluminum intake manifold cleaning |
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If it were mine, I remove it and glass bead blast it, as Central Coaster said, it will look like new. While the carbs are off you could use carb cleaner and a toothbrush on them to bring them back too.
Posted on: 2009/3/17 13:00
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Re: Troubleshooting-Help Needed! |
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Quote:
Just a bit of clarification here, on the newer ECM's you are probably correct, (I don't know) but on my '85, when the ECM was being affected by heat it would just flat die and wouldn't go again until it cooled down. Drove me nuts until a guy suggested that I try another ECM.
Posted on: 2009/3/13 16:17
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Re: Batting Practice? Caption this pic. |
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Quote:
Excuse me while I go clean coffee off my keyboard. That is definitely the winner
Posted on: 2009/3/12 14:42
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Re: Courteous responses |
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Welcome to the group!
Posted on: 2009/3/12 14:38
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Re: Help me with my top! separating from frame |
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Quote:
Marine epoxy is just one of the adhesives I tried and if memory serves me correctly it failed faster than the other two products. I realize it is a big cash outlay but I know of no one who has successfully re-attached their top. Give this some thought, if your top flies off at speed and happens to hit another car causing an accident, you could be in big trouble. There are many things you just can't shortcut on, this is one.
Posted on: 2009/3/9 1:49
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Re: Help me with my top! separating from frame |
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Give Jay a call at Vette2Vette, 815 673-6200. If he hasn't sold them he has a couple nice ones.
Posted on: 2009/3/8 4:48
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Re: Help me with my top! separating from frame |
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Guru
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Quote:
You are right on about how they do it, I watched one being done when I picked my new one up at Melrose. You are also correct that it isn't worth the hassle trying to find something that will hold the top together. I tried 3 times before getting a new one. To the OP, get a Melrose, stay far away from Astro
Posted on: 2009/3/8 1:19
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Re: personal ? |
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I'm truly sorry Pappy. I know how the feeling is when you find they didn't keep up their insurance, been there, done that, still have the scars to prove it.
Posted on: 2009/3/7 15:40
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Re: aka C4 |
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Tupperware!
Posted on: 2009/3/5 15:02
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Re: Need Help Quick Stuck Lifters! |
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Quote:
I never said there was, I just said that it is something I wouldn't do. If I have to elaborate, I meant that I am not into all the added things you need to do to make them work although it would be no big deal to do. I use my car as a cruiser, if I was going to race it I would not hesitate a second to go through what is needed. My racing days are over, I was racing seriously before you were a gleam in your daddy's eye.
Posted on: 2009/3/1 3:49
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Re: Need Help Quick Stuck Lifters! |
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Quote:
You sure won't piss me off saying that but what you describe is a major epidemic in the U.S. Very few people take any pride in what they do any more. The parts you got from Summit were made by someone and the reason they were bad is because that person probably didn't care about a thing except quitting time and his next paycheck. I'm not sticking up for Summit in any way, I just told a rep at Jeg's exactly what he could do with his parts and it was truly x-rated. Now, we're both guilty of hijacking this thread.
Posted on: 2009/2/28 17:03
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Re: Need Help Quick Stuck Lifters! |
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After readin a bit of this,, http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=581521
all I can say is, you've got more guts than I do. I'd stick with what GM put in there or at least an aftermarket version of it.
Posted on: 2009/2/28 16:28
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Re: Need Help Quick Stuck Lifters! |
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I can't believe there is 15 bad lifters out of the 16 you got. There has to be another answer. Did you take one apart, clean it and lube & re-assemble it? That would be my next step. Good luck.
Posted on: 2009/2/28 16:03
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Re: Need Help Quick Stuck Lifters! |
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I've never seen one of those lifters but I would imagine they are no different than a regular small block lifter in design. The plunger should move at least 1/4 inch. Check one of the loose ones for that answer.
I'm surprised NAPA doesn't stock those, I guess I'd be calling every parts house you have nearby to see who might have them.
Posted on: 2009/2/28 15:44
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Re: Need Help Quick Stuck Lifters! |
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I guess I would take the stuck ones apart and try to clean them with a clean solvent, then just a tiny bit of light oil on the plunger. Re-assemble them and see if it makes any difference. I guess your only option would be new ones from NAPA since you are on a tight schedule.
Posted on: 2009/2/28 15:12
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