Quote:

What would that be on crank? ~550?

If only I could copy/paste those numbers to my engine.
And how do you rev it so high with hydraulic lifters?

Will, how big is your cam and what power does your engine make? How high do you rev it?

Well, I did put that 7500 redline here, but what I'm really
aiming for is ~6800-6900rpm peak HP and shift points arround
7200-7300 rpm. As I said, I'm not sure about the cam yet.
I don't want the car to be totally useless on the street.
If that means that I'll have to sacrifice a few hundred rpms
on the top......

I know that even higher converter would be good, but I'm not
into drag racing at all, and on the track my converter is
locked most of the time anyway. And using 4000 stall TC on
the street would be overkill (IMHO, correct me if I'm wrong).

With rpm ranges above, weakest point is 1-2 shift where rpms
drop from 7200 to ~3800 (check graph), and 2-3 and 3-4
shifts should keep revs over 4000.

But anyway, all the tracks here are configured that way, that
2nd and 3rd gear are only thing that I can use.




As for that 2925 super victor. Will that intake clear
stock corvette hood?

I'm not 100% sure on the cam, but it will definately be
solid roller.

Here are a few candidates:

comp cams

lunati

I wouldn't like this to become another pissing match about FI vs carb.
Rather than that, I'd like to hear your opinion in which way would you
go if you were in my situation.

So, without too much details, engine will be 383, Callies crank, Carillo
rods, JE or Mahle pistons, AFR 210's, with ~7500 redline. Behind it
will be full manual converted 700r4 with 2800 stall and 3.73 gears.
I'll probably go with 3200-3500 stall later.

Car will be about 50:50 street/road race car. I really don't care about
any street stuff (comfort, A/C.........). Only thing that I won't from it
on the street is for the engine to run good. Idle will be rough and it
won't be very alive under 2500 or 3000 but I want it to be drivable.

Now, with all that said, I'm considering which way should I go, intake
wise?

Intake manifold will probably be Victor Jr. in either case, but I don't
know if I should go with road race preped carb or FI with 4bbl TB?!

I know that FI has a lot of benefits, but I don't have any experienced
tuner anywhere near and I don't feel like learning and doing it all by
myself. It would take too much time and any mistake (and I'm sure
that there would be some) could be very expensive.
Also, FI is much more expensive. For $1000 I can get a state of the art
carb, and with that money I'm not even near a good FI.

Only FI that I've recently seen and looks interesting is FAST EZ-EFI:
[URL="http://www.fuelairspark.com/ezefi/default.asp"]http://www.fuelairspark.com/ezefi/default.asp[/URL]
But it's a new system so I'm not really sure how good it would work,
especially with a seriouslly cammed engine.

What do you guys think? What are your experiences or opinions?

What lube are you using for prelubing the bearings?
Do you also use it on pistons and rings?

What would happen to auto trans in case of spinning at the track?
Or lets say, what would happen if wheels started to turn backwards
while in one of forward gears gears?
Would that kill the trans?

I did some calculating today and I'd like to hear your opinions.

I plan to deck the block to 9.000" (mill down .025").
I'll use Felpro gasket with 0.039" comp. thickness.

According to my calculations that puts me to:

* 10.8:1 SCR
* 8.2 - 8.4 DCR (I'll do some work on chambers so I'm not 100% sure in final chamber cc)
* 0.039" piston to head clearance

I could go higher with CR because lowest octane fuel here is 95 and 100 is available almost anywhere. However, I'm limited with engine components that I've got.

Parameters that I've used for calculations are below, so if
anybody wants to doublecheck on me, please do.

- stroke 3.48"
- rod 5.7"
- adv. intake closing 70 deg (this is with xr-288hr cam)
- bore 4.020"
- chamber cc 58-60
- gasket thickness 0.039"
- gasket bore 4.080"
- piston dish 5cc

Any inputs and thoughts are welcome!

What was all done to the block?
I ask because I'd like to know how are your (US) prices
for machining.

Here, I'll pay 250-300 dollars for boring/honing cylinders and
deck surfacing.

Quote:

That is probably the best and most correct anwser.


Who moves from Canada to Croatia?...... a crazy man

Just kidding. Those people were Croatians but lived and worked in Canada. When they wnet to retirement they decidet to return to Croatia. I guess it's nostalgia.

As for my english, thank you! I've learned english language through all my education and watching american movies, spending some time on internet also helped a lot. Also, I wouldn't be able to perform my job without it, as most of technical literature is in english.

Good question! I wish that I knew the anwser.

Actually, I've driven about 10 euro cars before vette.
That were all small cars with small engines (mostly 2 litre).
Then, I was given an opportunity to test one '85 corvette,
and that was it. I just loved it. I was totally impressed
with it's performance (have in mind that it was almost 10
years ago) and I decided to buy Corvette. That '85 was
in bad shape so I waited a little and searched, and finally
this one came up. It was completely stock and from first
owner who moved from Canada to Croatia.

No. I'm doing a budget 350, .020" overbore. It will have to be good for a year or two, while I'll build 383. Then I'll swap 383 into my vette and this one will go into something else.

Thanks!

I've cleaned the pistons with gasoline (soaked them in for a while) and scotch brite (finest grade).

Here's a little update.

I haven't done much, but I spend as much time as i can on this. I've cleaned the "new" block, applied anti-corosion layer, painted with primer and with orange metal enamel.
I did'n clean the block inside thoroughly, I'll do that after the machining.

Here are a few pics:








While I'm waiting for the torque plate to be machined, I'k cleaning and preping the pistons.

Thanks for the advice, I'll do it so.

Nice job Pete!

I know, he told me so, and he also told me that price won't be much higher. When I first said that my machinist won't do it, I jumped to conclusions before I discussed details with him. He said that it's not something that he usually do, but if I wan't it, it's not a problem.
But you wouldn't believe how much forward is USA vs Europe
in machining and materials.
Just to give you an idea; nobody here (I'm talking about machinists) uses torque plate. If somebody brings it with itsef OK, but if you don't, you won't get block honed with torque plate.
And align boring/honing is science fiction to most machine shops. There are only two shops in Croatia that can do it.

Thanks for the inputs!
I just spoke with my machinist and he agreed to make
individual bores!
I'll go with mfg specs, but I'll try to aim on the higer
side. Since this will be street but also road race engine,
it will see some high temperatures and a lot of abusing.

From manufacturer, .0025 - .0035, but that sounds a little
bit too tight to me for forged pistons.

I've bought some time ago a set of used forged SRP pistons.
Today i was cleaning them and I also did some measuring.
Pistons are SRP part nr. 138084 - 0.020" overbore:

Here is what I've got:
1. 4.0153
2. 4.0152
3. 4.0152
4. 4.0148
5. 4.0151
6. 4.0164
7. 4.0156
8. 4.0153

I've measured at .5" from the bottom of the piston, as suggested by JE/SRP.

So I have a few questions:
1. Doesn't difference of .0016" look too big (piston 6-4)?
2. My machinist will not do clearancing for each piston individually.
What would be the best way to tell what bore size do I need
(+ the clearance)?

Here is what I measured at stock head. But I can't tell if this head (valves and seats) has been machined before what could give greater readings.




I've also measured on one exhaust valve and reading was .671"
Hope this helps you!

I've almost ordered a HV oil pump form Melling (m-select 10550) but I did some research and it seems that there are a lot of people against using Hv pumps.
Most reasons against are:
1. Too much volume will make pump recirculate extra volume and cause
oil foaming and heating.
2. Possible oil starvation on continuous hig rpms.
3. Premature distributor (or even cam) gear
4. HP loss
5. Both CompCams and Crane advise not to use HV pumps with their cams

And here is link to "myths" on Mellings site:
[URL="http://www.mellingselectperformance.com/Portals/5/pdf/pdf_catalog/high-volume-pumps.pdf"]http://www.mellingselectperformance.com/Portals/5/pdf/pdf_catalog/high-volume-pumps.pdf[/URL]

Now, I know that nobody will tell that their product is bad, but they also make std volume pumps at the same price as HV, so I don't see why would they lie.

And now, what is most important to me, what should I use, HV or STD?
This is what I'll use in bottom end:
- stock crank, repolished (so clearances might be a little higher, good for HV pump?)
- std/std main/rod bearings
- Canton RR oil pan (7qt)
- hyd roller cam
- ls lifters

Sorry, I didn't have time to measure, I'll get back to you with that info.
I solved my problem by machining (cutting the top) the valve guides.
But when I installed my cam, I also added new double springs and retainers that are (if I remember right) thicker than stock retainers.
I'll measure the spacing on the stock components for you tomorrow.

I know that when I installed #219 cam with stock 1.5 rockers I didn't have enough space. That combo is .525" lift. I was using positive style teflon seals. I have #113 heads dissasembled right now, so if you want I could measure from top of the guide to the bottom of the retainer. But you would have to add valve seals that you'll use to that equation

I'm talking about 4L60 (700r4) that I've converted
to stick shift operation.

Link to my thread

Well, I'm not sure if it's normal or not, but that not able to shift to OD while trans temp is still low, is same on mine. I do however have stick shift so I can't say about shift points raising depending on trans temps.

I believe that I've found guides. It's from ebay parts supplier that I allready ordered some parts before, and he's really straight up guy. He doesn't have them offered, but he was willing to ask arround. I should have them shipped to my doors for approx. $100. It's for bronze guides. Cast are cheaper.

Thanks Will!

I've found exactlly the guides that I need, even in
bronze. I've sent e-mail to PEP so I'll see what they'll tell.

Thanks!

No, not yet, but I'll give it a shot. Thanks!

I've talked to machine shop that does all my work.
Problem is that this engines are really rare over here,
and I can only get custom made guides.
That takes both time and money.

If I won't find any other solution, I'll have to do it,
but I'd rather buy them if possible.

I've seen a lot of Honda guides for $70-80 on ebay, manganese bronze,
so it's really odd to me that there are no for L-98 SBC.

I need a new valve guides for my #113 heads. I've searched
on e-bay and all stores (online) that I know of but I can't
find anything.

How is it possible that it's so hard to find valve guides for
L-98 engine?

I have pulled one guide and it measures
L = 2.060"
I.D. = .343" or 11/32"
O.D. = .557"

The closest that I've found are .5643" O.D: and a little bit
longer. That would be fine, but price is $8.50 each, plus $150
for shipping (they only ship with UPS).

Anybody know a source for valve guides?

Thank you very much for such detailed post. I'm in the search phase now, I'd like to be prepared when the engine will be ready.

What worries me most is a fact that I need to make a new tune with completely new engine. And I really wouldn't like to do engine break-in with the tune way off.

Are there any thumb rules that one should consider when making
a spark table for different cam.

There are a lot of tuners that make mail order tunes. How can they
make a good tune without having engine near them?
They usually ask for cam specs and from that parameters they are
able to make at least start-up maps.

In my situation, I'm about to step up from #219 cam to CompCams
HR-288-10 cam which has much more duration and even tighter lobe
separation angle.

I had custom tune from PCMforless for my last combo, but now I'd like
to try to do my own tune. I allready have WBO2 (LM-1), so I can
check fuel tune, bur I'm really concerned about spark tune.

Any information about spark tuning would be appreciated!

You're probably right. But i know that most of Alfa Romeo engines can't last unles journals are renitrited after machining.

OK, thanks! I ask because some european engines have stock cranks that are nitrited and if they are machined they are very soft under that thin coating.

Hopefully I won't need to machine my crank, but I like to be prepared.

How are journals on stock vette crank finished?
Is that just raw casting machined to dimensions or
are journals hardened in some way?

Just as update. I've bought and allready received new spirolocks.

Bought them at Competition products, as Will suggested.
Nice people to deal with.

Quote:

Into my topic

I won't do the 383 now because I don't wan't to do it half way and I don't have the money for doing it all the way now. I allready have Callies Dragonslayer crank and Carrillo rods for 383 but I don't have anything else.
What would I have with top built bottom end and #113 heads and superram on top of it?
This way, I'll build a good 350 (0.020" overbored"), drive it for a while, and when I'll have 383 fully done I'll just swap it into my vette and use 350 for another car perhaps.

And I allready have all the parts for 350. Except the crank. I plan to use the stock one.

I've started several threads asking all sorts of questions about my engine rebuild, so I thought to open a new topic where I'll post all progress and pics.


So here we go. As you know, after one hard start and revving the engine to almost 7k rpm, valves on the piston
nr.8 broke (or probably first hit the piston and then broke) and destroyed the piston, bent the rod, destroyed cylinder wall.........

This is what I first saw after removing SR lid



This are pics of destroyed head and broken piston






After seeing this, only thing left to do was to pull the engine and check for other damage and see what could be reused.




Here is the damage to the cylinder wall



First i was thinking about "sleeving" a block, but after closer inspection I've discovered cracks on cylinder wall that go all the way from the bottom to the top of cylinder. This means a different block is a must.
I allready have a block that I planned to use for my 383 build, but I think that I'll use it for this engine now and wait for another block to come along for 383.

And this is where I am now. I need to prepare all the parts that I bought (I'll post that later on) and take
everything to the machine shop. While the block will be machined, I'll port the heads and the intake.
Also I'll have to have crank checked if it's good to go
with polishing only or if it'll need to be machined for oversized bearings. Crank will also need to be balanced because I'll use new rods and pistons.

The work have just started, but I plan to do everything slowly and thoroughly.

Thanks for all the inputs guys. I won't go with splayed caps on this engine as i plan to see max 420 crank HP and 2-bolt (with ARP stud kit) should be enough.

Quote:

That's exactly what I'm looking at on e-bay. Fowler
seems like good quality/price tool.

I'll use new rods so that won't be a problem. I will take the block to machine shop and have done everything that's needed.
I'm only asking this questions because I want to be 100% sure that machine shop will do everything right.
I've had previous bad experiences so now I check everything by myself.
I can check all the clearances, but I can't check if align honing should be done or if It'll be done right.

After a little closer examination, I think that I've located numbers 2, 3 and 4 and that's enough.

Other question is, if I put a crank that was in different engine into this
block, does it also require align honing or some other machining?


Thanks for that tip Durango. I'm not 100% sure about 4 so I'll try it like you said.

I can only read nr.2 on one of the caps. And all of them are marked with letter F and arrow. I suppose that shows cap orientation.

I've acquired a second block for my engine (since my original block can't be repaired). Problem is that this block wasn't assembled when I got it and now I don't know main caps positions.

Is there any way to identify main caps position?
If I switch their positions, is align honing a must?

Yes, I agree. If you're not racing the car around the turns then difference is not big.

BTW, those suspension pics are just

You don't have sway bar installed?

I took mine off when I installed CO's and it's really
a lot worse handling without it. I'll be installing
it back real soon.

Thanks Brian, I was just writing EDIT in my previous post while you posted.

If something goes wrong, I'll check with them. Thanks for the links.

Thank you very much, I really appreciate it.
Please send me your full shipping infos on PM and I,ll have the clips sent to you.

A few bucks really don't matter, but as you said, $100 for such small package I won't pay out of principle!

Thanks again, I knew that I can count on you folks!

EDIT: I was just contacted by competition products and they are willing to ship spirolocks directly to me for $12. I'll go ahead with that because it's really fair price and I won't hassle you. If something goes wrong, I'll contact you again! THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!

Hi guys.

As the title says, I need a favor from someone.
I need to order wrist pin clips (spiral locks) for my pistons and I can only find them in places that will ship only to USA or ask some crazy amounts for shipping.

So, what I'd like to ask is, if I could place an order with summit racing for those clips and send them to any forum member address who is willing to send that package to me after he receives it. USPS should be the best option.
Of course I would cover shipping expenses (Paypal if possible) and any aditional handling charges that you'll ask, as long as it's normal amount.

This is what I need:
Spiral clips

Of course, if anybody knows where to get those clips locally and can buy them and send them to me, that would also be great. Either way, I just need those parts and I don't want to pay $100 for shipping.

I understand that all of you have jobs and are busy, so I'll understand if you don't have the time to hassle.

Thank you!