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| sliding | Main caps question | ||
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Senior Guru
 
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I've acquired a second block for my engine (since my original block can't be repaired). Problem is that this block wasn't assembled when I got it and now I don't know main caps positions.
Is there any way to identify main caps position? If I switch their positions, is align honing a must? |
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Posted on: 2009/9/19 8:16
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| BillH | Re: Main caps question | ||
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The Stig Moderator
 
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Someone should have marked the caps, sometimes they are numbered just with punch marks. Yep, if not, you need to hone it. |
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Posted on: 2009/9/19 13:08
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Every man dies but not every man lives. |
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| vetteoz | Re: Main caps question | ||
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Senior Guru
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The factory main caps usually are marked with the positions.A cast number on the top of the cap sometimes not easy to read
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Posted on: 2009/9/19 14:31
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Transfer
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| sliding | Re: Main caps question | ||
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Senior Guru
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I can only read nr.2 on one of the caps. And all of them are marked with letter F and arrow. I suppose that shows cap orientation.
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Posted on: 2009/9/19 16:10
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Transfer
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| Durango_Boy | Re: Main caps question | ||
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Elite Guru
 
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Yeah the arrow marks orientation. I sometimes spray cleaner over the caps and sand the tops of the numbers with sand paper to make the numbers a little easier to read. Might give you a better idea. 1 & 4 are the most similar so the more detail you can make out the better.
If you can't get them identified I agree you need to get it honed at a machine shop. |
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Posted on: 2009/9/19 16:21
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| sliding | Re: Main caps question | ||
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Senior Guru
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After a little closer examination, I think that I've located numbers 2, 3 and 4 and that's enough.
Other question is, if I put a crank that was in different engine into this block, does it also require align honing or some other machining? Thanks for that tip Durango. I'm not 100% sure about 4 so I'll try it like you said. |
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Posted on: 2009/9/19 16:23
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_________________
'90 L98 auto with a lot of mods |
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| bogus | Re: Main caps question | ||
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Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
 
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At this point, take the block, mains and such to good machince shop, with all the specifications and have it done right.
I know it won't be cheap, but a good machinist can read numbers and such. If you don't do this, the engine will die much sooner than you realize. The more you spend here - money and time - will save you in the end. It's time to buy some microgauge!!!! |
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Posted on: 2009/9/19 18:40
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_________________
The single biggest problem with communication is the illusion that it has taken place. - George Bernard Shaw Education is the best tool to overcome irrational fear. - me |
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| Durango_Boy | Re: Main caps question | ||
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Elite Guru
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I agree, some or all of your components need to go to the machine shop.
If you are using a used crank from any engine you need to have the crank turned...or use it as a core for a turned crank, and just get over sized rod and main bearings to match the crank journal sizes. I would also suggest, even though you haven't mentioned it, having the rod ends reconditioned. They will check the rod end for round and don't be surprised if you end up needing a new rod or two. |
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Posted on: 2009/9/19 18:52
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| sliding | Re: Main caps question | ||
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Senior Guru
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I'll use new rods so that won't be a problem. I will take the block to machine shop and have done everything that's needed.
I'm only asking this questions because I want to be 100% sure that machine shop will do everything right. I've had previous bad experiences so now I check everything by myself. I can check all the clearances, but I can't check if align honing should be done or if It'll be done right. |
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Posted on: 2009/9/19 20:30
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_________________
'90 L98 auto with a lot of mods |
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| Calm | Re: Main caps question | ||
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Senior Guru
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If it's a 2 bolt main block, now would be the time to buy splayed caps before going to the machine shop, I'd think.
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Posted on: 2009/9/19 20:41
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1995 Forged 385 ZF6 227/234 1.6 FIC30# MSD BBK SS SLP Bullets X-Pipe DynoMax |
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| BillH | Re: Main caps question | ||
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The Stig Moderator
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If you're serious about checking this stuff, it's time to invest in a dial bore gage. They're aren't that expensive, about $170 for a decent one. I have a Fowler, made in England. 1.4 in. to 6 in. range, reads in 1/2 thousandths. With it and a micrometer, you can check the caps & block for size and out of round. You can't depend on every machineshop, I had a block come back after bore & hone with one cyl tapered. Without the bore gage, I would have just installed the piston and run it. |
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Posted on: 2009/9/19 22:14
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_________________
Every man dies but not every man lives. |
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| anesthes | Re: Main caps question | ||
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Master Guru
 
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Nobody marks caps. Every trip to the machine shop and the caps are laying off to the side.
Why? Because it's impossible to not see where they went. There is obvious hone marks that are unique to each saddle. Some caps are marked from the factory, I've seen the 2 3 4 thing with the arrows too, but everyone knows you should check how the caps lock into the block (they should click in with a firm push or tap, not be loose) and check the bore and hone marks at the same time. -- Joe |
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Posted on: 2009/9/19 23:24
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'79 Z28. 412 CID, NP 833 transmission, 3.73 10.5" rear end. |
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| anesthes | Re: Main caps question | ||
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Master Guru
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That gets expensive. While stronger, it's an awful expense. -- Joe |
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Posted on: 2009/9/19 23:26
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| sliding | Re: Main caps question | ||
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Senior Guru
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Thanks for all the inputs guys. I won't go with splayed caps on this engine as i plan to see max 420 crank HP and 2-bolt (with ARP stud kit) should be enough.
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That's exactly what I'm looking at on e-bay. Fowler seems like good quality/price tool. |
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Posted on: 2009/9/20 13:19
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| BillH | Re: Main caps question | ||
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The Stig Moderator
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I've had mine for quite a while. I did some research on quality and didn't want to go overboard on price. Attach file:  IMGP0591.jpg (0.00 KB) |
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Posted on: 2009/9/20 13:44
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_________________
Every man dies but not every man lives. |
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