Thanks guys.

..wake up this part of the forum :-)

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I will fix this one. I do plan to get new heads for a 383 that I'm slowly building but I think that I'll go with AFR 210's and those would probably be too much on current 350.

Actually, I'm glad that I've found this. I don't know if you remember, but I have built a new engine about 4 years ago. The reason for a new engine was that one valve broke in the old engine and made some serious damage to one of the heads and to cylinder block. So I've found a good used block and one used head. And ever since I have built this new engine, if I pushed it really hard for a longer period of time, sometimes a problem like I described in the first post would happen.
I belive that this head was cracked from the begining but the crack was probably smaller and it didn't make problems all of the time.

Hi guys.
Just to make an update. You were right. Color of the plugs has nothing to do with the problem. However, the problem was coolant getting into cylinders #3 and #5.
The reason is blown head gasket. But the reason for blown head gasket was this:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/h5vb88ck4t1lomj/DSC_0244.jpg

The problem wasn't in the gasket. It was a crack in the head that started the process. But after examining the head I saw that gasket made too deep marks. I think it's because #1043's have steel wire rings. And #1010's are with copper wire rings.

I need a new head gaskets. What would you recommend? So far I had FelPro 1043, which is a bit thinner for higher CR. I would like to keep that. It's also smaller in diameter, which is better I think. Only problem is that I thinjk it's steel wire gasket and it made some markings in the heads.
What do you use?
I need a quality gasket.
Thanks.

Ok guys. Thank you for advice.
I'm about to change the plugs anyway, so I'll go with
one step colder heat range.
I'll also remove the PCV and see what will happen.

I will look into that possibility. But the smoke looked a lot more like it would be from coolant. Also, it looks like there is a little loss of coolant and oil level hasn't changed in 3000 miles.

This is the pic of the plugs

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8qtlijgvrm5rf9l/DSC_0108.jpg

Hi guys.

I've noticed in 2-3 occasions, when I really push the engine, suddenly it starts to feel like there is a lack of power and a lot of smoke comes from the exhaust. It looks like it's white smoke. When I let off the throttle and if I drive with a little throttle, the smoke goes away soon and everything feels normal. This doesn't happen every time when I push it.

I have pulled the plugs, and all 8 look like this. I think this could be caused by cooling liquid. What do you think?
I'm thinking about bad intake manifold gasket. But all 8 plugs are the same. So it must be somewhere in the intake where all 8 cylinders could pull the fluid.
Any ideas and inputs are welcome.

Thanks, that's good to know.

Thanks. I'll give that a try. I have allready wrapped
the headers but it didn't help a lot.

On '90, it's probably the lower one. I have constant
problems with starters heating up. It wasn't too much
of the problem until I installed Canton RR pan. With
that pan and LT headers surrounding the starter, too much
heat became an issue.

OK, thank you very much for the infos.

If I understand correctly, I would have more problems
if the engine was externally balanced.
In my situation,flywheel can be neutral balanced separately?

Yes, engine was internally balanced. How does that affect
clutch assy?

That sounds lika a god option.
Thank you for the infos.

Do you perhaps know if clutch disc and pressure plate
are the same diameter as on Vette?
Can they hold the same power/torque?

Is stock Camaro/Bird flyfweel single or dual-mass?

Hi guys.

Hopefully, this year I'll convert my '90 from auto to ZF6.
I did some research and I think that I understand
everything that I need. Only thing that I'm not sure of
are clutch components.

I have original clutch components but they need to be replaced.
So, I was wondering what parts should I get?
What is the best option price/quality related?

I would like to go with single mass flywheel. If I go with
single mass aftermarket flywheel, such as Fidanza, can I use
stock replacement clutch disc, TOB and pressure plate?

Are there some year specific things to look out for?

My car is '90 and ZF and all the parts that I have for
conversion are also from '90.

Is a '91-'96 starter a must? No way to reuse my starter?

Ok. Thanks guys.

There is no much experience here with SBC's and
I'm doing everything on my own, except the machining.

What I'm most interested in is if there are any known
manufactuters that are better than others.
Or even more important, any manufacturers that are
known for not so good quality.

One of the reasons that I'm asking is because i've
seen a set of rings for sale on CF, which are Lunati
brand. And i've never heard of anyone using Lunati
rings.

What manufacturer would you recommend?
What type of rings? Std. or low tension oil control ring?.....
Anything else to consider?
Which bearings? It's for Callies 4340 crank.

This is for a 7k rpm 383 for street and some road racing
and maybe occasional 1/4 mile run.

Very nice!

Very nice!

Looks great!

Hi guys. Sorry for not responding sooner, haven't ben here a for while.

The wheels are OZ Futura, 10x17 fronts and 11x17 rears.
Tires are 265/35 front and 285/40 rear.

Thanks guys! Yes, it's lowered with coilovers on front and longer studs on rear (plan on rear co's also).

Here is one more:

I'll try. Thanks!

Vette2vette don't have any VSS right now. I'll try to find something on ebay. Thanks.

I have contacted vette2vette and I'll see what they'll respond. I'll get back to you on this.

Thanks!

I need VSS (vehicle speed sensor) for my vette.
I'd like to get a used but good one. I would get a new one
but I plan to switch to manual soon so used one should do.

Let me know if you have one.

Thanks!

Would you be willing to sell only clutch and flywheel?

Bogus, yes, I'm using Mobil1 5-30. I'm running M-Select oil pump. I should check when I get home but I think its 10552. It's high pressure/high volume pump.

I think that Brian is right. I'll have to look for some aftermarket valve covers. It's hard to do anything with stock ones.

I'm not 100% sure but it seems to be between grommets and VC. I'll try with some sealant and if that wont work, I'll remove PCV and connect both VC's into one catch can with breather.

Any downsides without PCV, ther than smog?

I can't get rid of oil leaks. If I drive to 5k rpm then there is no problem but as soon as I start to rev it to the 6500 redline, oil starts to leak on valve cover grommets and on oil pressure indicator. I know what is the problem on indicator and I'll work that out but I'm not sure how to fix leaks on valve covers.

Would it be better to remove pcv and install oil catch can?

Engine is fresh build and there is no blowby. It just happens when I rev it high. And it's really bothering me because oil gets to the headers and smoke starts coming out from under the hood.

I've found another guy that is supposed to be good in rebuilding starters and alternators, so I'll take it to him this time.

I did one more test today and I'm 100% sure that it's starter problem and not battery or wiring. It first cranked but after a 10 min drive and sitting for one hour or so, it wouldn't start again. So I turned the key to crank position (nothing happened) and my friend tapped the starter. As soon as he tapped it, it started.

If this rebuild won't work, I'll go with a new Denso unit, like suggested. Thanks!

The voltage is OK and there is no problem with the engine. When the starter won't start, it acts like it's completely dead. Even the solenoid doesn't engage. I had a low battery situation once, but then the starter clicks (solenoid) but it can't turn the engine. This is not the situation now.

I don't think that I'll take it to the same shop again. They told me that they have changed the solenoid and that everything else is OK. Looks like they were wrong.

Does anybody have any experience with those no name starters, like in the link in my first post? It's a bit strange that new one is cheaper than remanufactured AC Delco. I wouldn't like to buy some crap that will die after a few months.

Yes, when the situation happens that it wont start, tapping it actually helps and it starts. But I did have the starter rebuilt, and it didn't help.

Also, when it won't start, there is no clicking sound or any sound coming from the starter. But the lights on the dash fade a bit.

I'm having problems with a starter. It first started when I have finished my new engine. Itwas completely dead. I took it down and tried it on the bench and it started normally. Then I installed it back on and it started but the problem is that now, sometimes it just won't start. I think that it's temp related because it allways starts when it's cold. But as soon as it warms up, most of the times it won't start.

I don't know if the problem is too much heat or the fact that it's been sitting for a year. I've had headers on the car for 8 years now and it didn't seem to be a problem with the heat. But now I've added Canton RR oil pan that is also very close to starter.

I've had the started rebuilt but it didn't help.

So, my question is, do you think that new starter would solve the problem? Any of you running long tubes and 7qt oil pan? If you do, do you have any starter issues?

I was looking on ebay for a new one and I've found one (see the link below) but I'm not sure about the brand or is it any good!? What do you think? For the price, it's cheaper than rebuilding the old one.

New starter on ebay

EDIT: I've checked all the electrical connections and it's all good, so the problem must be in the starter itself.

I really like the looks on Edelbrock low profile elbow,
last pic, but does anybody know if it'll fit under stock hood?

I will definately go single plane on my 383 but I think
that it might be "too much" for my present engine.
But maybe I'm wrong?!

I've just seen your reply, thanks!
That was exactly the video I refered to. The throttle
response is really amazing.

What revs do you turn that engine to and what rear gears do you have?

I'm still tossing my mind if I should go solid or hyd. roller
on my 383 future bild. But when I see and hear your 383 run,
well I'm not sure that it's worth all that hassle and risk
with soild roller.

Thanks for that link. It's really tempting.
I believe that with my cam, I would see even more gain
than in that test.
And I could get almost all the funds back with selling the SR. Hmmmmm

What is stock TPI height?
How do you guys think this would compare with superram
on my engine?

- 350 2 bolt block, overbored 0.020"
- zero decked
- 11.2:1 CR
- stock crank
- SCAT forged rods 5.7"
- SRP forged pistons, flat-top
- #113 heads, ported, 2.02/1.60 valves
- ported superram
- #24 FMS injectors
- Hooker LT headers
- CC XR288HR cam, 288/294 adv., 236/242 @.050", .55"/.57" lift, 110 LSA

Congrats! That car looks badass! And it looks like
there is one behind the wheel also!

No, when It's hot, sometimes it'll start normally
but when it doesn't, there is no clicking sound.
The solenoid doesn't engage. And the solenoid is supposed to be new.

There is one thing new however. Canton road racing oil pan.
And that thing is big and much closer to starter than the original pan.

Yes, when it's cold it still starts normally.
I was also thinking that heat from headers might be
the problem but I have the same headers since 2003.
and the problems started just recently.

I try to make some heat shield first and see if that'll help.

I'm having some problems with starter. When the car is cold
it starts normally. But when it's warm and if I try to
start, sometimes it won't start.

If I use a pry bar and gently hit the starter while trying
to crank, it starts.

I had the starter rebuilt but it acts the same after rebuild.

Do you think that maybe starter wasn't properly rebuilt,
or should I buy a new one?

Will, your car looks and sounds great!

Was there a video of your car revving from idle
somewhere?