BrianCunningham wrote:
a hotcam isn't really what you want for a supercharger.

something with a lot of lift, but with more lobe separation.

take a look here
http://www.streetlethal.net/camdata/

bam wrote:
tjpreul how is your build coming? Thanks for letting me post a couple of question here on your thread! Keep us up to date on your motor.

rklessdriver wrote:
The LTX's do have the pin holes in the cam galley plugs.... they are to spray additional oil on to the upper cam and waterpump drive gears.

That lobe damage looks like a rod hit it honestly.... but without inspecting everything I couldn't say for sure.

When a lifter goes bad and damages a cam - typically it eats a track in the whole lobe....

When a lobe is damaged from lifter bounce it's always on the closing side flank of the lobe.

With that kind damage on the cam lobes, the lifters are suspect big time.... I would not reuse lifters from that engine in anything.... no matter how good they seemed.
Will

Durango_Boy wrote:
Tyler it's hard to see from the image...is the cam lobe wiped or just scored?

bigmoe wrote:
Okay it appears both of these fit all 93-96 LT1's. Can you tell the difference looking at them? I want to make sure I'm not paying for the newer style and getting the old style.

bogus wrote:
ah... 143k, huh...

thanks for the offer, tho!!

check out cat recyclers... they give upto about $40 per for our type of cat.

bogus wrote:
TJ - how many miles on your cats? The factory ones start to fail at about 110k miles and are usually done by 130k.

teebee wrote:
The DJs on the radio station I listen to, was saying it is the only US production car capable of going 200mph.....what the hell is that about? I'm pretty sure the ZR1 has a higher top, heck the Z06 is nearly a 200 mph car.

I've got a notion to email the radio station.

bogus wrote:
sams club was selling a cheap pressure washer for $99.99. I got one and hooked up to simple green actually worked REALLY well on a dirty car!

I would think about it.

Durango_Boy wrote:
Tyler, you didn't paint the new block before assembly?

bam wrote:
Nice looking stuff. I can't believe how clean your piston tops are. Mine have lots more carbon and cooked oil. DSC04475.JPG I assume this pix is your new motor? What is in it? Love builds for the LT1, thanks for posting.

BillH wrote:
Quote:

tjpreul wrote:
Quote:

BillH wrote:
70 is what the ARP book calls for on a 7/16 with ARP Lube.

And like Matt said 3 steps.

I had to buy the ARP sealer. It wasn't bad at $8 a tube. The bolts came with the grease, but the instructions said to use the sealant for the ones into the waterjacket. Wanna guess how many did this.

All of them on a LT1 because the depth of the holes in the block is very close to the waterjacket (and may be into the jacket).

Also a little oil on the bolt head where it meets the aluminum is a good idea.

BillH wrote:
70 is what the ARP book calls for on a 7/16 with ARP Lube.

And like Matt said 3 steps.

dan0617 wrote:
Aaron (AKS).... or anyone else who might know....

If I do go with a D1 Procharger, and spin it to it's max at my max (65000 impeller speed at my 6500 RPM redline), about how much boost would it make on my setup that I described above, figuring no intercooler, just water/meth? I know there is no definite exact answer at this point but I'm wondering if it will be like 15, 18, 20, or more? Wondering if I will need to pulley it down to less than the max impeller speed.

bam wrote:
Quote:

tjpreul wrote:
Did you ever run your car before to get a 1/4mi time. The engine will feel a lot better totally freshened up. I'm not too far away from pulling my engine (new one on stand). Is it a local shop that your having do the work.

Never did run the 1/4 but I did notice a nice boost in power with the hot cam and headers already. I am going with the local engine shop here in town.
Is your new motor an LT1? What have you done to it? Did you build it yourself?

BillH wrote:
Probably doesn't help you,Tyler. But I have a PCM for Less chip set up for sale. It would need some programing, came out of a TransAm, auto. $50.

Strick wrote:
Quote:

flyboy wrote:
Dumb question maybe, but do LT4 heads have threaded inserts on the rocker arm studs from the factory?

Absolutely.

I found out that the bottom of the insert is removable. You just use a small pair of needle nose pliers and break it off. GM left them on as the OEM studs are shorter than ARP studs and don't bottom out. It saves time on the assembly line.

Andrew wrote:
Cool Tyler! Can't wait to see the result. What did you decide to do with the motor? Specs??