All Posts (BeachBum)
Re: wow |
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Master Guru
 
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
751
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I think the right tools are perhaps the most imporant thing when working with a TPI motor. Long ago I bought some T-handle wrenches similar to that in the below link.... mine have a ball-nose, thus you can get at those opposite side lower runner bolts extremely easy with the T-handle wrenches even at an angle.... thus making it easy to start or loosen one.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_101 ... le+allen&vName=&x=21&y=12
Posted on: 2010/1/3 19:08
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Re: Drag radials for a c4 |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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Smaller rim is typically better for traction because you have more tire and sidewall.... but this can be subjective. I think those big 17" or 18" rims might be better for roadcourse type racing, with a shorter sidewall, thus added rigidity..... but, I don't know for sure. You have the best selection of drag tires with the 15" rims.
Not sure if F-body rims fit or not, but BFG, Nitto & MT ET Streets all have a drag tire for the stock 84-87 16" C4 rim.....in fact, those C4 rims are really nice.... basically the same weight as a Weld Draglite 16" XP rim and they of course fit the C4's perfectly. There are two different rims, I think one is a 8.5" the other is 9.5".... get the latter. I have seen on occasion C4 rims for sale at ebay typically for $ 100 and even less per rim. The BFG tire is the 255 50R16 The Nitto is the 245 selection The MT ET Street is the 26 x 11.5 x 16 (I recommend this tire) good luck !
Posted on: 2010/1/3 18:27
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863 cubic inches of C4 & C6 muscle C6 Corvette Z06 - Lemans Metallic Blue C4 Corvette 436 - Pure Black http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3933547 ... chevrolet-corvette/page-1 |
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Re: Drag radials for a c4 |
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Master Guru
Joined:
2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
751
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I raced a C4 for years with power similar to yours.... a bit more torque, a little less HP....BFG and Nitto drag radials just won't cut it, I went through 4 sets of BFG's and 2 sets of Nitto's.... they particuarily will not cut it if you are looking for consistency, when they spin, which is more often than a bias ply, its harder to get them out of spin, whereas the ET Street will recover much quicker. The BFG was far superior to the Nitto's, which were about useless on my application. I will say, that despite the radial tire being a bit heavier than a bias ply, they are faster.... if you hook up on radial tires, you will run about 1 mph faster, or at least I did. This I assume has something to do with the stiffer sidewall the radial gives you. The ET Streets are definitely a bit mushier but if the track is even halfway decent, you'll hook-up hard... your mph will be down a hair, but you'll typically make up for it with an improved 60 ft time. I wouldn't run BFG or Nitto drag radials on any motor capable of 60 foots of 1.7x or better again. Of course, all of this is assuming a stock C4 suspension.... if you have a professional chassis suspension guy tuning your set-up.... you can get your ride to hook-up on tonka toy wheels in a pool of snot as some heads-up outlaw radial tire classes have shown us with their 7 second/200 mph timeslips.... but thats not realistic for most of us. As a note, I have heard good things about the Hoosier drag radial, but have never run it myself....
Posted on: 2010/1/1 21:04
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Re: Possible Ban |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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Interesting cf thread....Scare tactics....scare everybody into thinking their 2 bolt will blow-up first time they push the go pedal.... But, the reality of it is, you rarely see naturally aspirated pump gas street/strip 6000 rpm motors blow-up.... in fact, its very rare. I have spent hundreds of weekends at the dragstrip over the years, and the motors that are oiling the track down are typically either power adder cars or 7000+ rpm motors..... but docile street/strip 6000 rpm cars ?.... extremely rare. Quite frankly, even the 7000+ rpm cars that on occasion oil the track the problem is rooted from a valvetrain issue before a shortblock problem. Having said that, if given the choice, I'd choose a 4 bolt as I have.....but, I wouldn't be scared of bracket racing a 2 bolt until the wheels fell-off....let alone put-putting around in a street car.
Posted on: 2010/1/1 20:48
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Re: 30 dollar 12HP+ air foil? |
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Master Guru
Joined:
2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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Most people who put it on do not realize that they did pick-up some power, its not enough to actually feel unless you have an imagination .... but it works never the less. Put it on a bracket car and they will tell you.... At least it does on a modified mid 12 second 350 TPI motor as mine was at the time of the modification. Its the same as the Meziere electric water pump, whatever you can get off that belt is going to pick you up a bit of power..... if you are not et hunting, meaning you are not trying to wring out every last tenth of et, I do not necessarily recommend modificatons such as this, but they do work, just don't expect a lot.
Posted on: 2009/12/13 20:02
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Re: 30 dollar 12HP+ air foil? |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
751
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I tested a lot of speed parts years ago at the track on a very consistent bracket car at the time.....the Air Foil I tested in A-B-A-B testing..... was very thorough testing.....it made no difference on my timeslip at all, thus it is a waste of money in my opinion. However, with the Breathless Air Pump kit, I saw a surprising improvement.....at the time I put it on, I was a mid 12 second 350 TPI motor....I picked up approxmiately a tenth of real et... I recommend it. Cannot comment on the others, have not used them.
Posted on: 2009/12/13 6:55
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Re: Another 15 min of fame for Bogus |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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I had 2 minutes of fame back in around 2003 I think...
Vette Magazine was covering a West Coast Corvette Challenge event, which I won on that day, thus got a picture of me holding the trophy as well as a picture of my corvette in one of the issues.... I got a name mention in the article too. Just wish I had known prior, I might have washed my vette before that event and put it in race mode.... 
Posted on: 2009/12/6 21:21
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Re: New SBC aftrmarket block |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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I will say, I hope people buy Darts.... they are American made, plus Dart will be around tomorrow.... will ProComp ? PBM will probably be around, but will their engine department ? In my opinion, the block isn't a good place to save money.... its the bones of the body.... if they're brittle or weak, bad things happen.
I can tell you, the Chinese really killed the Manual Machine Tool market, just like engines and cylinder heads, they build a plethora of manual mills and lathes and import to us under a "large variety" of brand names..... and the low prices were just unbelievable .... people used to buy a Bridgeport for 10-15k.... the entry level Chinese mills were marketed at 2k..... real number !! They were lightweight pieces of junk, but they sold never the less.... Bridgeport went out of business years back in large part due to this. (However, their brand name was purchased by Hardinge, thus the brand lives on these days) My point, its just not a good thing.... I'd like to see some huge-ass tariffs from anything in regards to metallurgy coming from China..... I know it will not happen, but it'd sure be nice. They are now building a plethora of CNC machines.... most low dollar, lightweight hunks of metal that couldn't hold a thou or two if your life depended on it.... but yet, they'll sell because of the price. They have foundries and factories for Machine Tools that you just wouldn't believe...... the Dalian factory is a city in itself, the workers live at the factory with their families in apartments, they have grocery stores, post office, etc..... they can pump out 10 times the machines a company like Haas can..... crazy stuff what they're doing over their !!
Posted on: 2009/12/6 6:24
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Re: 1985 Drag rims recommendation |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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With my 85.... I hook hard on the street with 26" ET streets on a 16" rim.... (MT has a 26 x 11.5 x 16 ET Street tire) You can put these on the stock 84-87 rim if you want.... though I'd recommend the wider one of the two, tire fits perfectly in the fenderwell. I also own a set of Weld XP Draglites which are a 16" rim that were specially made by Weld years ago to clear late model brakes (Designated by the XP).... they do not manufacture them anymore, but you can find them on occasion at places like ebay or racingjunk.com. They can run the same MT tire. The backspace is somewhere around 5", but do not remember exactly offhand, but I believe they are the exact same as our stock 85 rim considering they too fit perfectly under the fenderwell. On my old 85 with a 383 they would hook hard at the strip if the track was decent..... worked well on the street too, dependant on street conditions they'd spin a revolution or two at low speeds, but then hook you right up and go.....the car was actually safer with slicks than street tires.... street tires would break lose easily and often at a variety of speeds. Haven't tried them with the new motor yet, but will soon. . good luck !
Posted on: 2009/12/6 6:06
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Re: For the cost conscious (aftermarket block)? |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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I do not have a horse in this race and my block is a Dart Little M, so I have no worries...... but for a perspective from both sides of the Chinese block controversy(PBM block, who is also Erson Cams) Read the link below..... on page 4, PBM is showing the block content results, hardness test, etc..... apparently in the hardness test, it came out better than the Dart SHP block but not as good as the Dart Little M block.....
Interesting read.... http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic. ... s=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Posted on: 2009/11/24 18:07
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Re: This Vette is something else.... |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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It has gone to $ 18k and the reserve is still not reached..... this car, albeit nice, is losing its value, and thus alure.
Posted on: 2009/9/27 0:45
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Re: 383/DMF considerations |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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I'll help with my opinion, but may I ask what a DMF is ? This is new to me.
Posted on: 2009/9/27 0:42
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Re: Help me compare these two cams |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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Thanks for the pics, they look good. I have always liked the GS type black 5 spoke rims. I've never found a set that is affordable to me though.... I'll probably buy them if I ever do. I do not want to run any spacers though, prefer a bolt n go rim.
On the lift, your springs can handle a maximum .575 lift, which is what it simply means.... they're not designed to maintain pressures beyond that. Your two cams above are fine to run with .575 springs.... I always look at the lobe lift and then can easily figure out how much rocker arm I can from their. You have a very common .350 lobe on that second cam....multiple that by 1.6 and you have your .560 lift.... with room to spare.
Posted on: 2009/9/26 16:53
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Re: MSD or Taylor plug wires |
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Master Guru
Joined:
2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
751
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For many years I ran and raced the Taylors, then switched to the MSD's..... I thought the lower resistance of the MSD's might help performance. They didn't, gas mileage and track performance remained unchanged as near as I could tell.
I think both work well. Have confidence in either choice. I ran all sorts of spark plugs at one time or another, honestly, the difference from the one to the other was unnoticeable in anyway as near as I could tell....
Posted on: 2009/9/26 4:46
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Re: Help me compare these two cams |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
751
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Matatk,
I like your rims.... can I ask where you got them ? Are those 16" or 17" ? Do you have other pictures I can see ? (Sorry, I do not mean to take your thread off-topic, feel free to PM if you wish) Back on the cams, I think with what you are trying to do with your TPI, either one will work, if I had to guess, I would say Cam # 1 would give you another 5-10 ftlbs of torque 4000 rpm and below, whereas cam # 2 would find you an extra 10 HP above 4000 rpm..... with 2 cams like that, there is almost always a crossover point.... the question is where in the rpm band it happens and then which torque curve helps your car accelerate to the speeds you desire. What is important as well is the converter/gearing information. Cam # 1 would probably work a little better with a stockish tight converter, whereas # 2 would benefit from a slightly looser converter and/or gearing. Although I personally think they would both be fine with a fairly tight converter. On the flipside cam # 2 might do better than we thing right off-idle because its a tad more agressive..... I would consider talking to compcams and getting their recommendation. As a matter of comparison, with a 120,000 mile 350 TPI motor with an Accell base, ported plenum and Accel runners, Dart heads and headers with a 3.07 gears and stock 85 converter I coerced 12.42 @ 108 mph out of it.....I think I was right around a 1.70 60 ft on that, but its been over 10 years since then and do not remember exactly. A converter a little more agressive and I probably could have gotten another tenth or two improvement. This was with the LPE 211 cam, which was 211/219 @ .050" - 112lsa - .533/.560 with 1.6's. This is just a matter of reference of the type of performance you could achieve out of a set-up like this. Just as a sidenote, the one thing that I have learned about this stuff, is that speed is addicting.... you'll build it as above, and then almost assuredly want more in a few short months... its not a bad idea to cam up for it now.... the 219 cam as others have mentioned would work well with this set-up too..... and if you ever decide you want more HP with a different intake, you'll already be cammed up for it. Good luck with whatever you choose !
Posted on: 2009/9/25 20:35
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Re: This Vette is something else.... |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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Bidding up to $ 15k.... and the reserve has still not been met. :sad3:
Posted on: 2009/9/24 21:02
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Re: Never total up your costs |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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Quote:
LOL....
Posted on: 2009/9/24 20:59
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Re: Never total up your costs |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
751
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If added up what I have spent on my car over the last decade.... it'll depress me. I could probably have a new Z06 for the investment thus far. Not to mention, I might accidently leave the dollar amount laying around.... god forbid my wife saw it, she would then entitle herself to the same investment in shoes...... 
Posted on: 2009/9/24 20:58
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Re: What Engine Would The Guru's Build? |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
751
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Something else that somebody might find interesting that I should mention on this dyno graph.... that handwritten HP graph that peaks right around 4700 rpm was a friends 383, manual transmission TPI motor with ASM runners and Edelbrock cylinder heads..... I think it was a compcams 224/224 cam......
His motor was dynoed on the same dyno.... I handwrote his graph in to get a visual of the differences between the two set-ups. He didn't have the big torque peak off-idle due to his manual transmission. That motor was typically a mid 12 second car with traps in the 110-112 area in his 3300 lb C4 on street tires. [IMG]http://i526.photobucket.com/albums/cc342/tldrane/scan0001-1.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 2009/9/24 20:54
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Re: New Bests at the track today, but........ |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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Wow Dan.... 10.5's !! Congrats !
Going to be tough for me to get past you..... but I've got confidence on my side. 
Posted on: 2009/9/24 3:50
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Re: What Engine Would The Guru's Build? |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
751
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lol... yeap, there's always a problem with those warp drives & time !.... the last one I had, I raced it, when I got back to the pits, it was 1984 and I didn't own my vette anymore.... had to walk home that night.
Posted on: 2009/9/24 3:47
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Re: Help me compare these two cams |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
751
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In my opinion, that 2nd cam is a perfect match for your motor.... LPE used to offer the 211 cam for long tube 350-383 set-ups which was 211/219 - .533/.560 cam..... very close to that 2nd.
Its a torque cam.... Although in my opinion, I'd recommend getting rid of those long tube runners.... they made me slow. good luck !
Posted on: 2009/9/24 3:06
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Re: Track results, AFR heads |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
751
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Its not like that at all, the cage main hoop is behind the driver, only way that gets in the way is if you're climbing into the driver seat through the hatch. With the door bar, most run a swing-out bar their that opens with the door, or not even run it all....most tracks don't look for it. I bring my side bar to the track with me, but it typically stays in my pit. All you need to run to 9.99 by NHRA rules is a 5 pt bar, thus you do not need the passenger bar. I thought the rollbar would be a pain in the butt before I got one..... now I know better.
Posted on: 2009/9/24 2:37
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Re: This Vette is something else.... |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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To my laymans eyes, the stereo looks okay, but I'll take your word on that.... that speaker location would have to go, thats where I put the tool chest and slicks. :tongue: I do not like how they cut the crossbar.... would have to fix that.
Posted on: 2009/9/24 2:03
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Re: This Vette is something else.... |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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638 HP is pretty mild for a 540 bbc..... you can get up around 700 HP with a more agressive hyd roller cam.... and 800-900 HP with a liveable solid roller....even more with compression and a more ragged solid roller cam.
Lingenfelter used to always like those small cams, so I'm betting its a very street friendly motor, albeit the gas mileage probably stinks. I'm betting as it sits it idles like a baby.... if I happened to own that car, would be a big decision on if I left it like it was or slid in a lumpier cam and modern cylinder heads..... would be a tough decision.
Posted on: 2009/9/24 2:00
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This Vette is something else.... |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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Without a doubt, if I wasn't in the final stage of my current build.... I'd bid on this car. I really like it, the vette itself is in great shape and it looks like the motor was well put together and fairly clean looking big-block installation.
I don't know where the auction will go, reserve hasn't been met, but if you could get this for 10-15k, would be a great deal in my opinion..... or at least to me it would be. Anybody wanna buy mine, I could then afford to bid on this one....:toothy3: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-L ... d82&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245
Posted on: 2009/9/24 0:49
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Re: What Engine Would The Guru's Build? |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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If the 383/406 SR-219 combination doesn't make your cut.... Here's a few ideas.
- Turbo V6 Buick (I have personally been beaten down at the track by a few of them over the years) - Big Block - with a goal of 100% streetability... run a hyd roller, 6000 rpm, huge torque 650-700 HP, perfect streetability - Exotic air intercooled German or Italian engine (pick one.... hopped up, they all can make impressive power) - Twin in-line 4 cylinder motors on boost..... not sure if you could shoehorn it in, but you'd be the talk of the town. - Outboard Mercruiser motor..... I don't even know what that is, but it sure sounds cool. - Electric Motor - with the right servo's and enough big-ass batteries, you could run single digits, albeit your driving range, might be better classified in feet rather than miles. - Warp Drive - Not sure if they're on the market yet, but I've heard with a loose converter, they're doing the 1/4 in .000342 seconds, on the bottle, .000320's (you'll need a rollcage) I have other great ideas, just let me know if you're interested in more of them. :tongue:
Posted on: 2009/9/23 14:32
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Re: What Engine Would The Guru's Build? |
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Master Guru
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I ran the popular LPE 219 cam.... which is a .560/.560 with 1.6's - 219/219 @ .050" 112lsa cam..... for whatever reasons, that cam seems to work well for applications up to 6000 rpm. I think a 230ish cam would have made a little more HP at an expense of torque at 4000-5000 rpm, but not sure, never ran one.
This cam created a HP peak of about 5700 rpm.... Here is an early dyno of the set-up.... ton of torque as you would expect. When this dyno was done, I was typically running 11.5-11.6 @ 116 mph..... I found more power out of it later on with a cylinder head change which gave me another 2-3 mph.....thus I assume it made around 380 rwhp at the end, but do not know, didn't put it on the dyno. Wish I had, would have been interesting to see what it did. (Ignore the squiggly lines on this, that is just my doodling, the 383-SR-219 dyno line is the one that ends at 6200 rpm) [IMG]http://i526.photobucket.com/albums/cc342/tldrane/scan0001-1.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 2009/9/22 21:01
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863 cubic inches of C4 & C6 muscle C6 Corvette Z06 - Lemans Metallic Blue C4 Corvette 436 - Pure Black http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3933547 ... chevrolet-corvette/page-1 |
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Re: What Engine Would The Guru's Build? |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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Quote:
I really loved that motor.... I beat it hard, and it laughed at me and asked for more. Literally 1000+ passes without a fresh'n up. (Over 80,000 miles combined street and strip on it) I think what else is nice about that set-up, is to run hard you do not need a big sloppy converter, a 2600-3200 is just fine. Nor do you need to spin it above 6000 rpm.... great street manners. I wouldn't upgrade to the 3.45 gears unless you're interested in the feel of them.... they didn't prove to be any quicker on the strip than my 3.07's.... but, I did like how the 3.45's felt on the street... made 2nd gear much more usuable around town. More of an objective thing.... but definitely not an et thing.
Posted on: 2009/9/22 17:44
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Re: What Engine Would The Guru's Build? |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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Pete, I pretty much agree on that LS7 thing..... pushrod technology works of art is what those motors are. But, without even trying hard, one of those motors would take you well beyond your 11.50 limitation..... you'd be running 10's in your sleep with one of them.
Considering what your goal is, I think you're their already with your 383 Superram motor.... freshen up the motor, put the good cylinder heads on with the slightly looser converter, and you'll easily run mid 11's, and maybe even accidently low 11's. Considering you already own it all.... its the cheap route to your goal as well. I ran a best of 11.32 @ 119 mph with a 1.52 60 ft with an identical set-up at a raceweight of 3300 lbs on a 700 ft midwest track in 70 degree air. I have no doubt with a fresh motor and upgraded converter, you would too. In 80-90 degree summer air, I ran 11.4's and 11.5's all day long. good luck with whatever you choose !
Posted on: 2009/9/22 17:36
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863 cubic inches of C4 & C6 muscle C6 Corvette Z06 - Lemans Metallic Blue C4 Corvette 436 - Pure Black http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3933547 ... chevrolet-corvette/page-1 |
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Re: 700R4-4L60 Build Up Part 5 |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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Pete, can I ask where on that last picture is the tube insert place..... I do not remember.... Pretty sure is on the passenger side and thats all I remember. I ask because I cannot look, I need to fish my hand up their and find it..... I want to know exactly it is if I'm doing it this way.
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Posted on: 2009/9/22 2:19
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Re: Another One Bites The Dust |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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Bummer....
My old 383 was a user too in its last few years..... It never pumped it out visibly, but it would lose 1/2 quart after a 2 hour drive to the track, race all day and then come home...... I had the same dilema on what to build.... thought long and hard on it. If I was to start again today, I'd probably go a different direction than I did..... its a tough decision.
Posted on: 2009/9/22 1:50
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_________________
863 cubic inches of C4 & C6 muscle C6 Corvette Z06 - Lemans Metallic Blue C4 Corvette 436 - Pure Black http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3933547 ... chevrolet-corvette/page-1 |
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Re: what is meant by over revving an engine? |
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Master Guru
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Assuming you are running the set-up in your signature.... I raced a very similar set-up for many years, albeit with a different cam..... made its HP peak at 5700 rpm on the chassis dyno, and I shifted typically in the 6000-6200 rpm area..... I tried running it higher, it didn't go any faster, I did short shift it, and it would slow down a little. I would think a 6500 rpm rev limiter and shift at around 6000 rpm and then experiment.
Good Luck ! Quote:
Posted on: 2009/9/22 1:45
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Re: 700R4-4L60 Build Up Part 5 |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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Lets say, a fella (Un-named) bought a new 700R4 transmission and then without thinking, installed in his 85 vette without putting the transmission tube into it.(Theoritically), thus how would this person (Un-named) go about putting in his dipstick tube.... keep in mind, that in theory, this guy doesn't even remember where the tube goes in that transmission considering the only part of the 700R4 he can see is the bottom of it..... (Theoritically of course).....
What would you say to this non-existant theoritical only person Pete ?
Posted on: 2009/9/22 1:41
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863 cubic inches of C4 & C6 muscle C6 Corvette Z06 - Lemans Metallic Blue C4 Corvette 436 - Pure Black http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3933547 ... chevrolet-corvette/page-1 |
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Re: Cheap plastic accelerator pedal bracket |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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Yeap, common problem, I snapped mine about 10 years ago at the track after about 500+ jabs at the gas pedal.... I didn't do anything wrong, just a normal hit.... guess it was time. I was a nifty 90 miles away from home... that was an interesting ride home.
Jimmy'd up an aluminum bracket replacement and haven't had any problems since, and thats a cool 1000+ jabs at it since. So far so good. good luck !
Posted on: 2009/9/10 4:42
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Re: 700R4-4L60 Build Up Part 4 |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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In my opinion, this thread has long-lasting implications. You're probably not going to get a lot of people to follow it word for word as you do it..... that is until they need it, then they'll go back and read it word for word while their transmission in on their work bench.
I would suggest, that when you are done, combine all build-up chapters to just one long thread and put it up top as a long-standing sticky. I'm pretty sure that this tech article will prove to be an incredible resource for the latemodels for many years to come.
Posted on: 2009/9/10 1:02
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Re: my 89 shakes very little compared to the 85 i had |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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For what its worth, my 85 is very tight.
Edit: Once I think about it, the rollbar probably helps that. I really don't remember what it was like before the rollbar.
Posted on: 2009/9/10 0:33
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Re: 700R4-4L60 Build Up Part 4 |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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Incredible Job Pete !!
I'm following every step.... I only wish this was done a year ago before I bought my 700R4.... I would have attempted the rebuild myself. I've always stayed clear of transmissions out of fear.... I think when done, this might be the best transmission technical thread ever done on the Internet..... Keep going, I'm paying attention.
Posted on: 2009/9/10 0:30
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Re: Track results, AFR heads |
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Master Guru
Joined:
2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
751
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Not sure what is happening on the other forum, but its all good..... dialing in a set-up is A-typical stuff and quite frankly, perhaps the funnest part of a new set-up is slowly dialing that et down. The funnest I ever had racing was in the beginning when it seemed every modification I made, worked and lowered my et.... always fun to find a new best most times out to the track.
Manual transmissions are a lot funner to race in my opinion, but of course infinetely harder too.... this is normal stuff, you'll have your et lowered down to whatever you're hoping for in no-time at all..... enjoy it!... this is the fun part. As far as racing tips from people.... most are just trying to be nice regardless of the quality of the tip, they don't mean anything by it.... or at least I do not. good luck and ignore everybody who might be negative and just have fun with your new "very fast" set-up !
Posted on: 2009/9/9 0:11
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Re: Track results, AFR heads |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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Quote:
No, its 66 ft, for both the 1/8th and 1/4.
Posted on: 2009/9/8 17:25
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Re: Track results, AFR heads |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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As a final note, despite whatever happened to you at the end of the track, the AFR's averaged 107.65 mph the 2nd half of the track, the prior set-up averaged 106.38 mph.
Just interesting....
Posted on: 2009/9/8 17:03
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Re: Track results, AFR heads |
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Master Guru
Joined:
2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
751
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Quote:
I think Josh did better than we know on that pass..... once past the 60 ft time, the new set-up gained hard at every increment. 6 hundredths from 60 ft to 330 ft, 4 hundredths from 330 ft to 660 ft and 5 hundredths from 660-1320.... and yet had a lower MPH, which is hard to do..... Its hard to gain et on a car in the 2nd half of the track, but yet run a slower mph.....it actually doesn't add-up, on my simulator, if you gain 1/2 tenth in the 2nd half of the track at 120 mph, (8.8 feet), that means you averaged apprxomiately 1.5 mph faster in that same distance... and yet his MPH is lower on the slip. Which can only mean, either the MPH timers gave a false number, or he let off the gas before the back stripe or at very end of the track detonation or fuel pressure dipped right before the end. Your timeslip MPH is the average MPH you ran in the last 66 ft of the track. Typically a car like Joshs is entering the 66 ft timers at 118, exiting at 120, thus will have a 119.0 mph on the slip. If there is a dip anywhere in their, the MPH will of course drop..... basic mathematics tells us this happened based upon the time he covered that distance per the timeslip. The 1000 ft et would have given us a better indication of how hard it dropped that last 320 ft. But who knows....
Posted on: 2009/9/8 16:42
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Re: Track results, AFR heads |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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If I can see those 330's and 1000's ft et's off both timeslips, it will tell us a lot. Including on what to make of the MPH.
In my personal experience of years racing both an auto and stick..... wheel spin coming out of the hole does not have a big effect on mph provided you hook it up in 1st gear and you are able to pull through the top of 1st gear hooked-up..... but if I would spin through 1st gear and into 2nd, MPH came down very hard. Reason being, you are wasting precious acceleration feet.... the same applies for a bog, you jump out and have a bog 20 ft out for example, car actually decelerates for a moment before re-accelerating.... this is wasted track. You now have 1300 ft instead of 1320 of track to accelerate to whatever that MPH is. So that would hurt both tests if you were doing it on both. Something else that is important is crisp, clean and fast shifting.... this will effect MPH.... whenever that clutch is engaged, you are not accelerating, and the longer it is engaged, the less amount of ashpalt you have to accelerate to your MPH when you understand you were basically coasting for a percentage of the track instead of accelerating. I think Manual racing is fun and I did a lot of once upon a time.... but definitely more of a challenge. Josh, at MPH's around 120 MPH and running on ET Streets, you should have et's around 11.5-11.6 even with a manual..... 1.6x 60 fts should be the norm. I think you definitely need to slip that clutch on a 5000 rpm dump.....or in otherwords, take it up to 5000 rpm, dump the clutch 1/2 way, and slip it the rest for the next 30 ft..... do anything to avoid that bog, you'll see your 60 fts and that et rocket down if you can. A friend of mine used to have a 2002 Z06, mild mods, we got it down to a best of 11.5x @ 118 mph by doing the above. good luck !
Posted on: 2009/9/7 16:56
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Re: Track results, AFR heads |
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Master Guru
Joined:
2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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Nice testing Josh !
On this final test, I'd have to analyze it closer to maybe help offer some insight and I don't have the time tonight. But the first thing that jumps out at me is that the AFR's were quicker than the TF's all the way down the track once you got past the 60 ft mark. Here is a summary of acceleration: 60ft to 660 ft mark Trick Flows = 3.362 seconds AFR = 3.307 seconds 660 ft to 1320 ft mark Trick Flows = 4.23 seconds AFR = 4.187 seconds So, you were definitely running faster with the AFR's than the Trick Flows once you got yourself going and in fact, substantially quicker.... for you to run a 60 ft time .13 slower, yet catch and pass the other timeslip is not an easy thing to do. To put the above in perspective, at your speeds, that 1/2 tenth difference the 2nd half of the track is approxmiatley 8-9 ft..... imagine yourself pulling on yourself 8-9 ft over that last 4 seconds of the track and you'll see what was happening. I do not know why with the MPH, as you can see above, the AFR's were pulling hard. But, I've had it happen to me on occasion for a couple of reasons, one of which I was too aggressive with the timing and it would detonate at the top of the track in high gear, this will hurt MPH more than et if its at the top.....I've also seen the same thing with a headwind. But, I dunno, just guessing.... I wouldn't worry about it, go work on those 60's..... thats where 90% of your et improvement lies and I imagine you'll be setting new personal records all winter with the really good air just around the corner. One more thing you want to think about with your et, is that for every tenth you improve on your 60 ft, you will typically receive 1.5-2 tenths total et improvement.... your prior 60 ft was .135 quicker.... imagine if you ran that 1.81 60 ft last night.... would have turned your 12.112 into a 11.8 or 11.9 without a problem. If you have time, post both timeslips with all incrementals including 330 ft and 1000 ft.... we can learn a lot from this. gotta run !
Posted on: 2009/9/7 6:02
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Re: Muffler Eliminators |
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Master Guru
Joined:
2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
751
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When I bought my vette, the previous owner had the eliminators on. (They were just Monza resonators) on the end.... it didn't sound bad and was not restrictive..... the cat does as much for sound deafening as the mufflers do, so it wasn't too loud.
I now run Flowtech Warlock Mufflers.... they're cheap and have a plug you can open for straight through performance at the track. They sound good plugged up and are pretty quiet in my opinion, but the thing with a V8 rumble, everybody has their different opinion on what sounds good. The Flowtechs (Made and owned by Holley nowadays), only cost around $ 70 each and as near as I can tell, last about 4-5 years before they're due to be replaced. Considering they're cheap, this is acceptable for me. good luck with whatever you choose !
Posted on: 2009/9/6 1:18
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863 cubic inches of C4 & C6 muscle C6 Corvette Z06 - Lemans Metallic Blue C4 Corvette 436 - Pure Black http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3933547 ... chevrolet-corvette/page-1 |
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Re: Best Battery period end ? |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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Quote:
Problem is, its not just the pits, but also the lanes.... so it makes it harder. I think I'll just buy a good AC Delco battery and keep a portable jump starter in the car with me at all times in case I run it down.
Posted on: 2009/9/6 1:11
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Re: Has anybody tried an MSD ignition box? |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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I have run 2 of them.... both failed, the first lasted a year, the 2nd last 3 months.... I gave up on it.(MSD 6AL) My timeslip didn't show any difference either on my 6000 rpm application.
Posted on: 2009/9/6 1:06
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863 cubic inches of C4 & C6 muscle C6 Corvette Z06 - Lemans Metallic Blue C4 Corvette 436 - Pure Black http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3933547 ... chevrolet-corvette/page-1 |
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Re: how crucial is the front spoiler on a c4 other than esthetics? |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
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Quote:
That looks like a nice price.... you know of anymore at that price ? I'd probably purchase tonight.
Posted on: 2009/9/4 2:28
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Re: AFR engine combos |
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Master Guru
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2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
751
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Quote:
But, did you do it in a 6000-9000 ft DA ? If that fella in the Nova drove off that mountain to a sea level track, it would run another 5 mph minimum and probably more like 8-10 mph faster. An 11.50 car at that elevation & DA is an easy 10 second car at sea level. Just food for thought.
Posted on: 2009/9/4 2:25
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Re: AFR engine combos |
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Master Guru
Joined:
2008/11/20 17:01 Posts:
751
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Here is a link for a nice set-up.... he's accessible to talk to you as well.
Its a 418 sbc.... curve was still rising when they shut it off..... probably makes 570ish up at around 6000-6200 rpm, but not sure. Look at the torque curve.... extremely stout across the entire rpm range, especially for such a docile hyd roller cam. I think he got his heavy chevelle into the 10's with that set-up. http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=218368 There is another guy with a 414 sbc, basically identical to the above set-up, but he's running E85..... made over 600 HP with basically the same hyd roller cam as above. Power was all in by early 6000 rpm. I can dig-up that torque curve somewhere if you're interested.
Posted on: 2009/9/3 20:38
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