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Print in friendly format Send this term to a friend  Regular Production Order
Commonly known as RPO. These are the codes that GM uses to identify options.

For example, LT1 is the RPO for the engine used from 1992-1996.

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   All Posts (1Fast04Vert)


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Re: D36 and Trailing arms
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Thanks

Posted on: 2008/6/6 23:12
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D36 and Trailing arms
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1. Are the D-36 rears interchangeable for all years of the C4?

2. Same question for the trailing and camber arms?

Posted on: 2008/6/6 16:47
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Re: How can I keep the tires planted in the corners?
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jhammons01 wrote:
My loose rear end has been diagnosed as the bushings on the rear trailing arms (Dogbones) are gone. Allowing the critical rear wheel to become misaligned when you need it most.


If you need them I have a complete set with the energy flex bushings already installed. Send me a PM if you are interested.

Posted on: 2008/6/5 15:20
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Re: high Pressure AC line '94 LT1
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What valve are you talking about? Shrader valves are known to get weak and leak, but they are less than $1.00 and easily replaced. Of course you will lose whatever freon you have left when you change it out, so have an AC shop vacuum it out first. (You know, that Go Green and save the environment thing).

Posted on: 2008/6/5 13:51
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Re: How can I keep the tires planted in the corners?
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CentralCoaster wrote:
Most of the people praising that thing have never been on the track.

I sold mine.


And also thinking about selling mine. As far as I am concerned shocks (or lack thereof) are why you are not staying 'planted'. I had Monroe's on for awhile and had the same issues. I went back to Bilstein standards and what a difference, no more problems. Now I have a set of Bilstein Sports coming in and have to decide which set to keep and which set to sell. I hate decisions, decisions, decisions.

Posted on: 2008/6/5 13:47
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Re: These work well
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I took mine off a long time ago, cut a piece ABS plastic aand glued it to each one, re-installed and no problems, nor $$ spent. Other than the TB by-pass the cheapest 'mod' I ever did.

Posted on: 2008/6/5 13:41
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Re: Why did you buy your C4?
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I bought my 95 coupe because someone wanted my 97 Dodge pick-up so bad he offered a trade that was too good to pass up. He gave me the Vette and $400 for the pick-up, which had 214,000 miles on it. By KBB or NADA the Vette was (is) worth slightly more than twice what the Dodge was worth.

I wanted a C4 because I like everything about it. I would rather have it than a C5 or C6 and have no plans to make any changes, even if I hit the lottery. But I might add a 72-73 vert to the inventory sometime fairly soon.

Posted on: 2008/6/4 12:56
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Re: New car, stupid move number one!
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Oops, should have said this before. Stupid move number 2 would be to wash the front of the engine down. New opti with dealer labor=$1200. Leaving number 3 up to your own ingenuity.

Posted on: 2008/6/4 11:56
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Re: New car, stupid move number one!
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That has happened more times and to more people than you would believe. No reason to get a new Fob, get a spare door key and tape or wire it underneath where only you know where it is. Personally I bought and use a 'rescue locking gas cap'. The cap has a 3 digit combination and a hidden compartment where I keep a spare set of keys. Can't get to steal my gas or the keys unless you know the combination.

Posted on: 2008/6/4 11:53
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Re: 95 Convertible Issues
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[quote]
95Vert wrote:
Fuses were ok. Changed from the 30A to a 10A but still no cruise control. This is important to me as when I take the car to Georgia, its an 8 hour trip.

I've checked underhood. The box for the cruise control is the ASR(?) embossed one? Its got, what look like hard plastic lines or tubes coming out. Do not look like vacuum lines. If a new battery was installed, is it possible any of the lines could have been pinched, injured? I ask because the battery was replaced and I actually need to adjust that body panel as it is sitting crooked.

****The cruise control servo is directly above the battery, just forward of the PCM. One vac line coming to it from engine vac. The other line goes to a vac switch on the brake pedal. When the brake is depressed the switch on the pedal opens and release the vac, thus de-activating the cruise. Check to be sure you have vac going to the servo, and that the witch on the pedal is properly adjusted and not staying open. Body panel adjustment is easy, just two bolts on the bottom of the panel, one of them is slotted.

Passenger side seat motor is moving mid range, slowly, but seat stops at the extremes of travel, both ends. The lumbar switches don't do anything except of a click/noise initially on pressing the switch. This is on the passenger side. If the DS/PS switch is moved to DS, same thing happens...the lumbar switch makes noise on the passenger side. Could the switch be fried?

****there is a little spring clip under the front edge of the seat cushion. Unclip it and pull the cushion up, forward and out. I would bet there is just 'crud' under there jamming the seat track. The air pump for the sports seats is under there as well, nothing under the driver's seat. It sounds like the switch is ok, something else is going on, but easy to check with the seat cushion out.

Don't have a helms yet. Does it cover the seats?

****YES!

ps--You are right, don't turn the ASR off until you have a big empty parking lot. Hope this helps. Oops-forgot, the cables coming in and out of the ASR are your throttle cables. There is also an easy way to check for full throttle response, but we will save that for another time, I dink I am getting carpal tunnel.


Posted on: 2008/6/3 12:44
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Re: New here, Hello.
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Quote:

pappyfreebird wrote:
aw fuggan righty cc yer learnin brutha....ja ja jive talkin yea heyhuh..werlds full a dayum foos ain it..waahahahaha...


Can anybody translate this?

Posted on: 2008/6/3 12:34
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Re: 95 Convertible Issues
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30A fuse is way big, if it isn't blown I would pull it out anyways, you sure don't want an in dash fire. There is an "F" shaped vac connector under the pass side fuel rail cover that is famous for breaking, which can cause lack of cruise and electronic AC control.

Posted on: 2008/6/2 12:46
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Re: New here, Hello.
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95Vert wrote:
Thank you all and I hope that my newb questions won't be too much of an imposition as I'm trying to learn about the car. (Nice bike, nice vette's you all have!)

On that note, was there anything in the center console that came with the car? There's nooks and crannys but of course, since it came through auction and dealers, I've got no personal items in the vehicle or even what may have come with it originally to the first owner.


Welcome from another '95 owner. There should be a 'key' for the locking lugnuts. Also, if you look in the storage compartment behind the passenger seat you will find a complete RPO listing. Hope it came with an owner's manual, if not I would put that high on my 'need it list'.

Posted on: 2008/6/2 12:39
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Re: help wipers driving me crazy
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From the 95 FSM;
[IMG]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f386/andyminnich/page2vettewipers001.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f386/andyminnich/Vettewipers001.jpg[/IMG]

Hope this helps.

Posted on: 2008/5/29 18:22
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Re: help wipers driving me crazy
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Dan, the ground comes from the electronic circuit board and is a black wire. The power feed is pin "B' in the connector. I will get the FSM pages scanned and mailed to you later.

Posted on: 2008/5/29 14:25
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Re: Is this guy serious?
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Wrong size tires for stock rims. Gotta wonder about this guy. 113K and that price? He needs to find a very wealthy village idiot.

Posted on: 2008/5/27 14:37
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Re: Knocking sound from the Left rear wheel area
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I would think the parking brake is highly unlikey. On the other hand half shaft u-joints would be high on my list.

Posted on: 2008/5/23 12:58
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Re: More trouble with my car.
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Stay away from ebay! I bought one several years ago and it lasted all of 3 weeks. Turned out it was a reman (I thought it was new). And I will never ever buy anything from partsladi again. They advertise hubs made in the usa and I even verified that with them before I bought them. When they arrived there is small print on the box saying components from India, Taiwan, and China. Then they would not give a full refund so I am still dealing with a 'dispute' with them.
Go MSD (vented and much better unit) or stay with AC/Delco from your local parts store. And no remans.

Posted on: 2008/5/23 12:12
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Re: Insurance pros and cons.....
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apeacefulstorm wrote:
Quote:

95vette wrote:


Why not check KBB and NADA and see what your car is worth, or even call your agent and ask him/her? Then with enough information you can make the right decision.


lol.... thanks for the morning chuckle.... I have a 93 vette with 224k on the clock.... whats it worth? I am not delusional, on a good day its probably worth more for the parts than the car itself...


KBB says your car is worth $6060 in good condition or $5260 in fair conition. That is for a base 93 coupe, no options and at 230,000 miles. I doubt your parts are worth that much.

Posted on: 2008/5/22 17:52
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Re: Insurance pros and cons.....
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apeacefulstorm wrote:
I hear what everyone is saying regarding full coverage insurance (and I don't disagree), I guess what doesn't sit quite right with me is this; if I have modded my engine, have different wheels, etc and someone hits me, my car could be totaled out by the insurance company even though there may not be damage to the stuff I want to keep i.e. engine and wheels.... They may cut me a check for 2k and that's all I get.... however if I only had liability insurance I would have the car and could take off of it the stuff I want which might exceed 2k.... that's my point....

The idea of me having to buy back my car from the insurance company just doesn't sound right, there is something wrong with that picture.... but that's just me...


Why not check KBB and NADA and see what your car is worth, or even call your agent and ask him/her? Then with enough information you can make the right decision.

Posted on: 2008/5/22 14:16
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Re: 94 automatic - soft shift
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Time for a fluid and filter service???? Does the fluid smell burnt, look discolored, etc?

Posted on: 2008/5/22 14:13
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Re: Insurance pros and cons.....
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CentralCoaster wrote:
Quote:

95vette wrote:
Many people do not even know what comp coverage is and what exactly it covers, nor how inexpensive it is to take comp coverage to a zero deductable.


Tell me the point of having zero deductible comp. If you pull a claim every time you get a windshield crack or a door ding, or anything else under $500, your rates will soon go up, and you'll be branded as that picky guy who costs the insurance company money.

Insurance companies don't like people who file claims.

The best advice I have is to pay out of pocket for small damages, get high deductibles to reduce rates and never use your insurance unless it's something major.


Here in Georgia comp claims do not affect your rates. For lack of better words they are generally considered "act of God" or in other words something that is not your fault. Everything is totally different (and weird to me) in CA, like a foreign country with all the odd laws you have out there. Oh well, to each his own.

Posted on: 2008/5/21 16:03
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Re: 96 Rear Bottoming Out
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Mine is lowered front and rear and with the Monroe Sensatracs (rated similiar to KYB by some) I had a similiar situation. When I went back to the standard (not sport) Bilsteins no more problems and the over all handling is very much improved. Yes, Bilsteins are considerably more expensive, but spread that out over the number of miles/months they last and the money issue becomes a non issue.

ps--by bottoming out I am not meaning any parts hitting the road, but the car slamming down so hard there was no more impact absorption left in the suspension. Hope that makes sense.

Posted on: 2008/5/21 13:14
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Re: Insurance pros and cons.....
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My wife and both daughters are adjusters for State Farm, and they are constantly amazed at how many people pay for insurance and never even know their coverages. "Full Coverage" actually means nothing, it is slang for I think I am covered since I pay a lot of money and my agent hasn't fully explained my policy. How the value of a car is reached in Georgia is by KBB, autotrader and Craig's list are also used to get comparisons on occassion. However, it will vary by state, just as State Farm will offer different coverages in different states, often necessary to comply with local laws, rules, and regulations. Many people do not even know what comp coverage is and what exactly it covers, nor how inexpensive it is to take comp coverage to a zero deductable. Bottom line is you need to talk to your agent, be sure he understands exactly what you want and see if he can meet your expectations for a reasonable amount of your hard earned money.
ps--If you are still making payments on any car be sure you have gap insurance (VERY IMPORTANT)!

Posted on: 2008/5/21 13:06
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Re: My Avatar was "removed" as it was offensive on "that" forum
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happydad wrote:
I'm a little offended myself :tongue:That car should'nt be in the picture


What car?

Posted on: 2008/5/20 0:56
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Re: newbe questions about lt1 1994
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Matatk wrote:
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donkeydawn wrote:
While im at it to burp the system are you talking about filling and then running car to op temp with cap off and then topping off coolant?



Yes. I think the LT1 has a relief valve, too, doesn't it? Can someone with an LT1 chime in?

Matthew


OK! With the LT1 you must follow proper bleeding procedures to get the air out of the system. My 95 has one bleeder screw on the t/stat housing, your 94 might also have a bleeder on the coolant line, driver side of the throttle body. Take the surge tank cap off (tank by the windshield) and leave it off util you are done bleeding the system. Wrap rags around the bleeder screws to keep coolant from running down on the optispark. Start the engine, open bleeder screw(s) until coolant is starting to come out, close the bleeders. Run the engine up to operating temp and be sure the t/stat has opened and then repeat the bleeding procedure at least once. Keep the surge tank filled as you do this. When done put the cap back on the surge tank and you are good to go.

Posted on: 2008/5/16 15:22
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Re: Milage on your ride.
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About 206,000 now. I understand they repaved "The Tail" last summer, but I havn't gotten back up there so far this spring. Sooooo many neat roads all so close by.

Posted on: 2008/5/8 0:42
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Re: New shocks - good idea, but.....
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pianoguy wrote:
I haven't read any good reviews on the Monroes that I can recall. The KYB's are pretty reasonable - just shop around for the best deal.


I ran Monroe Sensatracs for a while. They were OK, but the handling with the Bilsteins is much improved, so is the ride. My 'test' corner on Monroes max was about 35-38 mph, same curve with the new Bilsteins and 45 mph is no problem at all. Depends on how you like to drive, I like to push it hard.

Posted on: 2008/5/6 12:22
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Re: AC Compressor Cycling.
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That is not normal and will eventually lead to failure of the compressor clutch and possibly the front seal of the compressor. The excessive cycling causes heat build up in the clutch and excessive wear, the heat build up in the clutch can also cause compressor front seal failure. A good first check would be the binary/trinary switch (pressure protection switch). Pull the hsarness off the switch and using a paperclip by-pass it, if the rapid cycling stops then replace the switch, if not keep hunting.

Posted on: 2008/5/5 0:25
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Re: lower body side panels
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If you mean the rocker panels under the doors they use what is known as a 'bathtub insert' and a small screw to secure the lower edge of the rocker panel to the frame. They are available about any auto parts store, look in the 'help' section.

Posted on: 2008/5/2 12:54
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Re: New shocks - good idea, but.....
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pianoguy wrote:
I've had my tires off and on so much lately that my muscles are getting used to it ;-)


Same here, I feel I could be the oldest tire changer on a Nascar pit crew in history. The 315/35s are a real thrill.
Good to hear the new shocks are making a difference Dale. I had Monroes on for about a year, but went back to the Bilsteins a few months ago. I will pay the extra $$ for Bilsteins, but these should really last me forever.

Posted on: 2008/4/28 15:23
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Re: Old parts "Chevy 350"
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Considering how many years and models GM put the 350 block into, including trucks, I would say your chances are right up there with hitting a MegaMillions lottery with one ticket.

Posted on: 2008/4/24 21:29
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Re: Here's what a little elbow grease can do - 56K Beware lots of pics
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Very Nice. It looks like a different (newer) car. That is a whole lot of work! Glad the girlfriend helped make it worthwhile.

Posted on: 2008/4/24 21:27
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Re: New Paint
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Danspeed1 wrote:
More details... What did you have to do to get such an awesome paint job for $1K?????

DG


He sanded the hood down to primer due to the number of stone chips, then reprimered it with a sealer coat. The rest of the car was your normal sand and paint. Then he went back with base coat/clear coat, with 5 coats of the clear. Followed by a wet sand job. The price was right because he is a friend and owns his own business. He did a very nice job for me and way below normal cost.

Posted on: 2008/4/23 13:18
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Re: New Paint
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B1ack86v3tt3 wrote:
Your lucky. Expensive?


Not bad, $1,000 total. I just finished giving it the first wax job this afternoon. Now it really shines, better than new.

Posted on: 2008/4/22 23:40
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Re: High RPM electrical issue
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I meant to say did it fix the voltage drop at high rpm issue? Nice to hear you saved a bunch of money on the Bose though.

Posted on: 2008/4/21 18:57
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Re: High RPM electrical issue
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Did the new battery solve the problem?

Posted on: 2008/4/21 18:10
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Re: New wheels
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AFS Polished, 9" on the front being pushed around by 11" on the rear with 315/35s.
[IMG]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f386/andyminnich/100_0963.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2008/4/21 1:00
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Re: High RPM electrical issue
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If it isn't holding 12.6V or higher then it needs to be retired and replaced.

Posted on: 2008/4/21 0:51
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Re: A/C Not Cold - 1994 LT1
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Debris in the condenser will decrease the cooling efficiency, and also cause high head pressures and too frequent on/off cycling. Easy to check and clean if need be.

Posted on: 2008/4/19 17:37
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Re: 93 C4 brakes
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Do you have the J55 option? Mine does and stops great.

Posted on: 2008/4/19 17:34
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Re: half shaft tip ??
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All done, no problems. Turned out the 8MM socket worked best. Thanks Ya'll.

Posted on: 2008/4/14 21:54
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half shaft tip ??
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I am doing the half shaft joints and have everything broken down and have soaked the u-joint strap retainer bolts with BP Blaster. I plan to soak them down once more this evening and then again in the morning, then try to remove them an hour or so later. Nothing is broken and the job has gone amazingly easy so far, but these little bolts seem overly tight. Anything I have overlooked? I want them to come out without snapping or anything else goofy.

Thanks.

Posted on: 2008/4/13 20:48
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Re: fuel rail question
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Also, the 92-94 have the GenI Optispark, the 95-96 have the GenII vented optispark. There are other internal differences, but I would have to pull out my book to list them. Like Case said pull the pan and if it is a two bolt main then it is not even a corvette engine. Hope you didn't get ripped off.

Posted on: 2008/4/10 12:05
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Re: New Paint
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Quote:

skirlin wrote:
Smooth Is that an Air Force decal on the hatch?


Yes it is.

Posted on: 2008/4/9 21:32
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Re: 100 miles and caught a wave.
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Be very, very carefull with the ASR turned off or your hood will be more than just shaking. Take it to a totally empty parking lot, turn the ASR off, get hard on the gas and turn the front wheels and you will experience a whole new sensation.

Posted on: 2008/4/9 13:06
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Re: Under the hood "BLING"
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Quote:

CentralCoaster wrote:
You forgot the double stick tape! hardy har har...


Dang, I used a lot of that, well velcro actually.
Photobucket

Posted on: 2008/4/9 13:00
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New Paint
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I got it back with new paint the other day:
[IMG]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f386/andyminnich/100_0983.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f386/andyminnich/100_0988.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f386/andyminnich/100_0986.jpg[/IMG]

I am well pleased with the quality. Now to just keep the pollen, bugs and dings away from it, at least for a little while.

Posted on: 2008/4/9 12:56
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Re: what engine oil do you use ?
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Mobile One 5W30 and changed at 3500 mile intervals, 205,000 miles and going strong. 65PSI at cold start and stays at 60 psi cruising, never drops below 30 psi.

Posted on: 2008/4/5 19:33
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Re: Windshield Seals?
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It is called "A Pillar Weatherstripping" and Wilcox is the best quality for the money. Be patient in both removing the old and installing the new, and do not bend the retainer strips.

How did you even find a ZR1 windshield? Bet that was expensive.

Posted on: 2008/4/4 13:06
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