Just thought about this one as I filled the res yet again..

Just do what I did...get a bad leak...after a few months you'll have noice clean fluid in there.

Mine is nice and clean...however the catch pan has nice clean fluid in it as well.

That is that cable that goes to the ignition.....the one that makes you put it in reverse to get the key out.

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I have no way of knowing...I think it was three years ago this Summer I got the car. So whatever was introduced was out of my hands.

There is a reason however that there is rust...there is a reason that the heater didn't even try to work when I got it. There is a reason the Water pump went south at 85k miles and why the rusty radiator split open in well below normal running temps of Southern California.

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Aye Chihuahua.......

don't drink Deionized or Distilled water......which also in line with what you said.....

Water wants to absorb and return to a state of contamination....So if you introduce water that is devoid of minerals into your body...guess what it will do?? take the needed minerals from your body leaving you sick.

EVERYONES tap water is full of Iron, minerals and salts.....this is true whether you believe it or not. The Parts Per Million are really high. And that is normal. Water running down a mountain stream in the Colorado Rockies is full of Normal contamination.

So yes don't drink water....distilled or deionized water.

That is a strange nut to crack.

What is supposed to happen at +200°? Fans??? Something is supposed to happen at that temp...and when it tries to "happen" it hits a ground or a short and the thing kicks off....maybe to protect itself??

I'm just throwing things against the wall.

If I do this "maintenance Project"...And I will do this this Fall or Winter....I will have "refreshed" from the Radiator all the way to the rear hubs and everywhere in between.

But I hear ya Andy, While the entire drive line was out...I was thinking...it wouldn't be that much more to lift the motor out.......

The only thing that stopped me and what stops me now is that vibration.....I have to address the high speed vibration and that is going to be found in the front suspension somewhere.

I've always wanted a Chevy V8 that sounded like that, Can I make the MissFire lobe like that??

If so where do you start?

^^just ask the Aliens on "Signs"

"Swing away Merrill"

LOL...And there is a reason I had to replace that radiator and have brown nasty water.

The part about water absorbing the surrounding minerals is correct......Hence do not drink the stuff

Heard the story about the Lab technician that was getting sicker and sicker?? 6-8 months of test netted no diagnoses.

every morning He would clock and then proceed to make himself a pot of coffee with the "filtered" water rather than the nasty Tap. Guess what that Deionized water was doing to him as it ran through his body???

Anyway, if you feel your water is ok....then ok...but I'd just

If you go to a 3.73 rear end, wouldn't 1st become as useless as 6th with a 3.07?

hang on a bit, CC will be here with tons of advice as he has this exact swap......it's only 7:00am here on the West Coast....on a Sunday

Prolly the same guy that makes me switch from SAE to Metric 50 times will working in the same thing.

Just Two days ago I was just changing a battery....had to get at least 7 different sizes of tools to do the job.

Tore down a Rotary Engine with a 10mm and 12mm Deep socket.

^^yup so why start off bad??

Why start by pouring minerals into the system...let it get it's own...

If the system had never had tap water...and never been allowed to rust up to begin with....then you could even 24 years later open the cap and it be nice and clear and green.

LOL.....this is going to be one of those "early '84" issues.....that only the misfir....er...Crossfire guys has to deal with...

OK you got me on the Stat.....I've told you before that I am not too smart.

Anyway, I will scold you on the Tap water thing. You need to get jugs of distilled water from the grocery store and use it. You've created a de facto electrolysis system in your cooling system....metal particulate is being dissolved into the coolant as we speak....

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Water itself will not conduct, it is the particulate present in the water that is conductive.......solution.....remove the particulate.

Here is a good article that states that "grounding" is the cure.

http://www.search-autoparts.com/searc ... ticleDetail.jsp?id=154932

Well there is that big hose that is on the bottom of the pump....but it is hell reaching it for sure. The Pulley are in the way.

I've had a leak there for weeks...I bought the replacement hose weeks ago...I just cant see how I'm going to get to it without taking lots of things off first.

Keven says you can get to it...it is just tight as hell.

That pesky side panel has to come off when you need to change the battery.

It's pretty much straight forward until you come to that last 10mm screw that is located under the Rocker panel.

Once you get it out, and before you button it back up again, get your trusty Dremmel out and make an oval into a slot for reassembly and future battery issues.

Once you do this, you can then slip a 10mm into the thin open area between the rocker and panel and just loosen that 10mm screw enough to slide the panel out...this makes it so you don't have to remove the screw all the way. A real time saver.

Pictures 1, 2, an three are of the hole that is now a slot....

Pictures 4 and 5 are reassembly with a nifty slot

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The only way I could get it out was with the Turkey Baster.

^^That is a good idea. Just understand, letting it sit was not by choice.

I had everything from the Flywheel to the rear hubs lying around on the garage floor. the tranny, D36, u-joints were all getting serviced.

I'd work some days and sit and stare other days.

^^Who is to say that the Stat closes exactly at 185°??? No one calibrates those things.

I do know that I had a lower temp Stat in there at one time and on cool days (~60°) the temps would drop into the 150s on the freeway.....the overdrive kicks out at exactly 159°. It is an frightening moment when your car, seemingly for no reason, downshifts on you. If you are not expecting it, you may need to clean your trousers.

So I am grateful that the stat is doing it's job. And who knows, with my limited I.Q. I may have put a 180° stat in there and forgot.

I think it had to be the CPU or the charging system....

I had the battery tested it is sorta weak....but it is starting the car every time now and.........

The stumble is gone....

Oh and guys, thanks for working it out with me.....I know it is hard over the net....

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I know I know....yeah and you are right.

Idle is smooth. no bouncing and sits at about 800.

It's just when you let out the clutch....under a load it stumbles just a tad and then goes

Well, it was almost empty when I parked it...it had about a gallon in it. My first run around the block ran out all the gas. So I had to go back home and get my wallet to put more gas in it to go on the freeway.

When the battery is weak enough not to get a crank on the starter.....The mileage averages and all that gets reset to zero...could the CPU get reset and then take time to learn again?

^^Shouldn't it be 14.4 volts???

oh c'mon guys, this is the Guru site....spit out your theory..no need to be perfect, that is the 'other' forum.

OK, since the '84 sat up for 6 weeks or so, it has now developed a very low rpm stumble.

I'll admit things that have been neglected.....
1. Air Cleaner.....filthy
2. Distributor cap (does it have a Rotor inside?? If so add that to the list)
3. TPI adjustment
4. injector cleaning
5. Timing Chain...not sure when I should have changed that.
6. Ignition coil or whatever it is called.

And before anything else.....The battery has been trying to die...I may have to get a new one as I have no idea how old this one is and since the cars been going again I've had to nurse the battery by charging it etc. The voltage gauge has been reading only 13.3-13.7 and sometimes 14.0....but never 14.4.....could a weakly charged system be the culprit here?


I hate the stumble, I love to ease out on the clutch and have a good running motor and allow it to climb out.....but this is sucking wind....

What would you guys suggest??

I can get it down to 48° on a good 30 minute drive on the freeway. However, with that small cabin and that blower on high....you'll be switching to "norm" cooling before too long and turning down the fan....even at 52° blowing in there.

ya know, me and Bogus went round and round about that......and then I decided to ignore him about it.....

When I had the "bad" oil leak, that gauge would definitely let me know when I was low...however, when I have it full of oil it goes straight to 80...and stays there.

So maybe it is malfunctioning, I'm not sure and I have not gotten to it just yet.

It's like the Back up lights not working really well....Rather than crawl under there and address that single switch....Wisely, I just waited for the tranny to go out....while I was rebuilding the Super T10, the back up light switch got some attention...problem solved.

Using this logic, I'll wait for the motor to go south at which time I'll take a peak at the oil sensor sending unit...

*Edit*
I need to add that Bogus is correct about the oil pressure gauge malfunctioning.....

yup..

Yesterday it was 90°....

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I like that debris screen...I've seen pics already...I also heard it works for deterring small rodents from getting in....

yup.......

My coolant system is completely stock. I replaced the water pump, thermostat and radiator with NEW components last summer.

I cleaned out between the condenser and radiator and I keep it clean by pulling the cowling off every now and again. I cut the cowling so that the holes that the hoses go through are now slots. I only need to take the ~20 screws out of the top and lift it off to see the trash in there. I use the cordless drill and a nut driver set from Target to make the screw removal a very quick process.

I've flushed my system ~6 times and yet it still turns ruddy brown within days. there must have been a sh!tload of corrosion in there. Each time I do it, I pull the over flow bottle and take it to the sink where I can clean all that rust out of the bottom.

And yes the fuel average changed...the reason is my battery is trying to die on me after sitting dormant in the garage for 6 weeks. I had to have it jumped just a few minutes prior to taking these photos.

Maybe the battery will come back...maybe not, I'll see over the next couple of days.

No silly mods to the fans...no fancy snake oil water wetter...and on a 90° summer day

First picture is driving in city traffic, Then I got on the freeway and took the second pic.

I have a 185° Thermostat in the car.....

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Frigid temps with 134a

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What you are seeing up there...I had to go to the "coolest" muffler shop ever.

Fantasy Muffler
Buena Park Ca

I bought one muffler from him a few years ago and he has fixed my muffler issues for free ever since.....

First couple of pics show the Muffler had cracked and then completely fallen off when I pulled the exhaust....so I went there and He welded (patched) it back together.

Then a pic of the Trans....yes I have an oil leak....Not in the tranny but further forward....(oil pan and power steering)

Last is looking back at the D36...all nice and clean. YOu can see that the stock exhaust is about to be all done....

Finishing up.....

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^^I wonder, did He switch those components (not the injectors) because He was told to do so or did they actually fail first due to the Ethanol.....

What did Lc1vette have to do??

And actually if what you say is true, this is a good thing. I thought you were being a Huckleberry and just yankin' my chain.

If you are really interested, I've been trying to figure out a way to grow switch Grass and using solar heat, distill my own Ethanol....

http://bioenergy.ornl.gov/papers/misc/switgrs.html

This document tells you tons of info

http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_l ... nol_manual/manual1-2.html

This guy told me via email that they have a kit even for a CrossFire. However, I didn't get the warm fuzzies from his answer.....not sure why...I just didn't think he any practical experience with my type of intake.

http://www.fullflexint.com/

I particularly like this one....this is about building a Solar Still for distillery of the switch grass mash. The way this works is you.....go look first and I'll rap it up

http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_l ... anol_manual/manual15.html

The way this works is, you can cut Switch grass three times in a year. Then you can create the mash and let it ferment. Then you distill it and run pure alcohol/Ethanol in your car.

I use 1100 gallons of gas per year in my job....two acres is what I need to produce that much fuel.

You cut switch grass with a regular tractor like hay......then you process it. Two weeks later your solar still is filling up a barrel with pure Ethanol that you take home. You fill your cars tank before you leave....simple process.

I'm not talking about E85.....I want to cut the Government and the Gas companies completely out of the loop.

Two weeks ago, I tried to buy 3 acres but the seller had accepted another offer when I walked into the Realtor's office.

My next plan is to try to talk to Edison (Electric company) about using some land underneath the power lines here in Irvine. I'm just not sure they'll allow me to be making moonshine out in the open like that.

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DAMN!! I don't see the front ones...does he carry fronts?

It's obvious you don't like the idea.....just let it go.

Just go out to your local dragstrip and see who is running Alcohol and what they had to do to get it to run.

The Carburetor guys have to put jets in three times the size of the gas jets.....

^^Three times......Three times is the number.

The model T was designed to run on nothing other than Ethanol...

^^Well, there is that one sticky on "the other forum"....but the pictures are removed....

Then here is a good one that is specific to your years

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2002/february/c4lights/light1.asp

It shows a few ok things. There are things I would revise from that document but I don't remember the differences now....it's been almost two years since I broke into mine.

It's one of things where you are following step by step and you find yourself kinda not understanding what they are trying to say...then you just bull your way ahead only to discover your common sense would have been better off to start with......that sort of thing.

Ah, you are wrong young grasshopper......now I hate the Exhaust!!!!

All went back together....Took a test drive last eve.

albeit better....the sad thing is the Vibration is still there.

OK..judging from my past post...what is it that I hate now??

^^IT SHOOK THE CONCRETE FLOOR in the garage. My kid was sitting on the couch here in the garage...he nearly shat in his pants...he came off that couch running and looking to see what is was at the same time.....classic

So, with the drive shaft in there, there is no way to tighten the two c-beam bolts....I had to pull the DS and then take the rear on out in order to get past the nut and get to the front one.....then replace the rear one....SOB!!! I hate the C-Beam

Exhaust and I'm all done

Almost done.....Diff is full of oil....got the spring on...Now that rear caster adjuster and the exhaust...

I started it one time with the headers completely open.....sounds cool like an old boat with a V8 in it. Not anywhere as loud as the RX7 was with open headers