I grew up on carbs and advance weights, too. I am being dragged, reluctantly, kicking and screaming into the 21st century. My C4 hasn't had any type of computer mods, just old school stuff. Still, I hate to see a modern, first generation, electronic fuel injected machine, retro fitted back in time. I feel if that is what one prefers to play with, they are starting with the wrong foundation. However, to each there own.

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The only interaction between the ECM and the trans, is the converter lock up as you mentioned. You could install a manual switch or there are aftermarket converter controllers available. The car will get better mileage and the trans will run cooler, and therefore last longer, with the lock up clutch in the converter functional. The only thing in the dash that relies on the ECM is the fuel mileage readout. All the other gauges will work fine without the ECM. Use extreme care in setting up the TV cable connection at the carb. The proper kit for the exact carb being used or very precise geometry must be achieved, or you may end up with a lump where your transmission used to be. If you stick with an electronic speedo, you shouldn't need to make any changes, there as long as it is set up for the same number of pulses per mile as the stocker.

You really ought to be sure this is what you want to do. It is a shame to take an EFI car and convert it back to old technology. Maybe you can find an old flathead to swap in there.

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Although some aftermarket gaskets have the bore (of the gasket) listed, that is more for figuring compression ratios and information for people doing strange or unusual things. Any gasket listed to fit the LTx engines will fit any bore size the block will take. You can leave the overbore of your block out of your gasket selection decision.

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Does this help?



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I can't avoid commenting on the opening post. That is a remarkable improvement in your communication efforts. Although is still has room for improvement, mostly capitalization and punctuation, it IS decipherable. Keep up the good work. You can do it.

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Quote:Are you sure you need a radiator? These C4 radiators are an aluminum core with plastic tanks crimped onto each side. You very possibly just have a gasket that let loose. I have had cracked plastic tanks replaced on mine, twice. I am still running the original 24 year old core and it cools like a champ. You can R&R your own radiator and take it to a radiator shop to have them check out. IF you need to buy a radiator, stay away from the copper/brass, multiple row radiators. Other than the DeWitt, and possibly that, unknown to me, all aluminum rad on eBay, stick with the OE style, aluminum core/plastic tank construction. A.C. Delco (Delphi?) and Modine are excellent, reasonably priced radiators.

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Quote:

Where do you think the choked down Crossfire intake manifold came from?



See the family resemblance?

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It seems as thought many of you have driven further, but I attended 6 NHRA Division 7 Summit Bracket Racing Finals in a row.

1998 L.A.C.R at Palmdale, California
1999 The Strip At Las Vegas, Nevada (The old track)
2000 Sears Point at Sonoma, California (Now Infineon)
2001 The Strip At Las Vegas, Nevada (The new track)
2002 Top Gun Raceway at Fallon, Nevada
2003 Southwestern at Tucson, Arizona

I loaded up the car with luggage, racing paraphernalia, and the dog, and headed out. I drove straight through, even on the 850 mile drives to Sonoma and Tucson (Palmdale was a long day, too). Then I raced for 4 days, straight. On the Monday, I repacked everything and headed back.

These things do like to cruise. I am looking forward to being able to do it all again.

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I haven't had any leaves between my radiator and condenser since I installed an auxiliary trans cooler.

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Have you run this engine at the track? Do you feel the stock pump isn't doing the job? The labels, "high volume" and "high pressure" don't necessarily mean what you might first think they mean. Unless you know the stock pump won't do the job, and you understand the oiling system and what the pump "labels" mean, you are best off sticking with the stocker.

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Keep doing what you have started. You are using the exact correct method of testing. Unfortunately, you will have to wait for the problem to reoccur to know if it is a fuel pressure problem or not. It could be the sock as Case suggested or possibly something floating around inside of the tank, intermittently getting sucked to the sock, blocking the fuel getting to the pump. Your symptoms don't sound like any fuel pump failures I have experienced. The pumps I have seen go, either slowly weaken, where their output and pressure gradually reduces, or they just flat die instantly with no prior warning. I have never known a fuel pump alternate between working just fine, start to run weakly and then recover. My experience is that once they start to go bad, they continue getting worse until they totally fail.

If it isn't fuel, again, I agree with Case on the ignition module. But as much trouble as you are having with the fuel pressure testing, the module will be worse.

I wouldn't jump around trying a bunch of different things. Be patient and keep to a diagnostic plan. If you are getting restless waiting for another incident in order to check the fuel pressure, you could pull the pump and check the sock, the tank for debris, loose wires or any other anomalies.

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Quote:They are bad enough. They are in excess of the generally accepted problematic 10%, but they aren't so bad that it can't run decently, for now. I would definitely be making plans before it becomes a serious problem. Mine is my DD. Even though I have a back up, I'd hate to make the back up my DD for long.

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Quote:Does that say, I reckon I are smart enough not to be lead into trouble by Corvette Forum. As in last site. Ony(???) comment to to you sir. If n(???) it's out of your way to help me then don't fucking help me.? I don't know the swear word policy on this forum, but I would think that is over the line. Even decoded it is poor English.

In any case, you don't say to whom you are speaking. If it happens to be me, as I've said, I have already given the correct solution to the problem, as originally stated. Should I retract it?

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Quote:You assume correctly.

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Quote:I never knew that any IACs were adjustable. How does that work?

To the OP, It wouldn't hurt to check that the ECT sensor is working consistently.

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Quote:Spell check passed on it. Now that I think of it, I think I have been corrected on that word previously. I am a poor speller. To compound that I am a very poor typist. I type a lot of "O"s for "I"s, etc. Spell check doesn't check syntax. I end up with a lot of "on"s where I meant "in", "if"s instead of "of"s. I have to constantly proof read, but now the wrong words are starting to look correct. Between slow, poor typing, proof reading and spell checking, it takes me a lot longer than most to create a post, but I do try to make it as correct and legible as possible. Regardless of the facts, I try not to look like an idiot. I'll try to do gooder.


Thanks, Brian. I DO know the 1984 fan circuity pretty well. I've had this car for 21 years now, and I'm starting to get to know it.

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Quote:Because the whole world isn't going to change because YOU say so. And because it is the language of the land. It will allow you to better communicate thoughts and ideas among those with which you wish to converse. Why Learn? Several good reasons. You are already asking people to go out of their way to help you. Many of us are willing and able do that. It isn't fair or even common courtesy, to ask your willing helpers to undertake the additional task of decoding your gibberish into English, to understand what you are trying to say. Regardless of the language, sentences start with a capital letter. Words are separated by a space. Sentences end with the appropriate, single, punctuation mark; a period, question mark, etc. There are two spaces between sentences. And proper spelling goes a long way toward making a post legible and understandable. Many of your colloquialisms aren't poor spelling, but for some unimaginable reason, just rebel language that isn't native to most of us.

I posted the solution to the problem on the old forum. For some reason you seem to think you know better, but yet you still ask. You have added a new symptom to the problem, since then, and I have the solution to that too, but since you know better and prefer to ignore the proper answer, I see no reason to push the issue. After all, I have to be me.

If not as a common courtesy to those willing to help, at least for your own selfish reasons, so people will understand what you are writing, and so they CAN help you, start writing in proper sentences, using the afore mentioned common rules of the English language. Also, start using real words and spell check.

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You have a car with a lot of miles. The 140# to 160# spread shows it isn't a new engine, but also, that it isn't on it's last legs. The puffs of blue smoke on start up are from oil passing through the valve guides. Very often on a high mileage engine after a new valve job the rings become overpowered and a new set of symptoms appear. You could try installing new valve stem oil seals if the smoking really bothers you, but the chances are that the guides are worn so badly that the valves, loose in the guides, will batter the new seals into a short life. The seals are about a $40.00 gamble for seals and gaskets. The valve job is a bigger gamble. My advice is to live with it until you are prepared to do it right. We all have different ways, but I would go out and buy a core engine I could build up while I was using the last of the old engines capabilities. In fact I am in the middle of that plan as we speak.

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I don't know if this illiterate is stroking people or if he really has a problem. I think 'nawt" means "not". If typing is difficult for him, I would think 3 letters would be easier to type than 4. Single letters,"r" for "are", for example, are either just plain lazy, ignorance, or a total disregard for the ease of reading, by the people he is asking for help, if he really is. If someone wants help, don't give the the knowledge pool a double challenge; first decoding the question and second, answering the decoded question. I have answered and written the solution to the original question, as it was asked on that old, less popular forum, where he originally posted it. He isn't smart enough to construct a sentence, but he is so smart he can refute the true solution to the problem as originally asked.

Check [color=blue:3cb570aaa4]HERE[/color:3cb570aaa4]. Item #7.

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Quote:Give him hell, Casey.


Quote:No cars built to be used in the US have been able to use leaded gasoline since 1971.


Quote:Left head, temp gauge. Right head, fan switch. Front of the intake manifold, slightly right of center and pointing forward is the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor.

Quote:

There is info in the FSM that will guide you to testing the ECT sensor. Just because it is a Crossfire with throttle bodies, it DOES indeed have injectors that CAN leak. Try starting the engine with the throttle wide open. That puts the ECM into the "clear flood mode", where it will shut off the fuel while cranking. If you have leaky injectors, flooding the engine, this can help. Also, keep a fuel pressure gauge handy. Possibly the fuel pump relay is bad which will eliminate the 2 second priming period and increase the cranking time while the oil pressure builds.

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The flywheel should be match balanced to the engine. All 1986 and up Gen I and Gen II engines are externally balanced in the rear. It makes no difference to the trans. I can't imagine why the flywheel is included in a trans sale. If you are going to build up an engine, you can supply any flywheel you might care to use, dual mass or one piece when it comes time to balance the rotating assembly. For the sake of future interchange, make sure the clutch in independently, neutrally balanced.

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It is just the basics, to start with. Air, fuel, spark, compression. What is missing? If the fuel volume isn't sufficient, the pressure will drop. So if the pressure is steady you can forget that idea. You didn't mention that it did drop off, but that doesn't mean that the pressure at the Schrader valve is making it to the injectors. or through the injectors. From your description of symptoms, I'd have to guess the problem is with the ignition system. The 10° base timing has nothing to do with the problem. How long has it been since you worked on it before the problems? What work did you do at that time?

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