All Posts (CFI-EFI)
Re: cfi-efi |
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Senior Guru
 
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Thanks again to all the well-wishers for the support! RACE ON!!! jim
Posted on: 2010/2/28 1:20
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Re: cfi-efi |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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THANK YOU ALL FOR THE KIND WORDS, EVEN THE LESS THAN KIND, BUT ACCURATE CRITICISMS. I NEVER WAS MUCH OF A TYPIST. MY LIMITED LEFT SIDE MOBILITY DOESN'T HELP. BECAUSE OF THAT, I DON'T POST MUCH, NOW. I APOLOGIZE TO THOSE I HAVE OFFENDED AND AM PLEASED TO HEAR I HAVE BEEN A HELP TO SOME, HELPING HAS ALWAYS BEEN MY MOTIVATION. I AM RECOVERING AND DOING BETTER, I SPENT THE ENTIRE MONTH OF DECEMBER IN THE HOSPITAL. IT IS GREAT TO BE HOME. THANKS TO ALL. RACE ON!!! JIM
Posted on: 2010/2/27 15:08
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Re: Rear end gurus, step inside please. |
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Senior Guru
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I scanned this thread rather quickly and excuse me if this was mentioned earlier, but other than the actual diff itself, there is nothing different or stronger in a D44 over a D36 suspension. Half shafts, knuckles, spindles, etc. changed somewhat from year to year, but are the same for both a D36 and a D44 for any given year. Any one doing the conversion can save money by not buying and paying for a complete suspension. A complete WILL provide you with spare parts in case of a breakage, but no strength advantage.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/8/14 14:31
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Re: Another rough idle |
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Senior Guru
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Posts:
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With only these symptoms, it isn't fuel pressure, fuel pump, or fuel injectors. Vacuum leaks DO cause problems with the idle, but the additional air from a vacuum leak makes it idle faster, not slower. Resetting the IAC is only needed when installing or reinstalling the IAC. The IAC will self reset if the procedure isn't performed. It isn't a tune up or maintenance operation. The low idle speed indicates a lack of sufficient air. Because you report the idle speed changes as the engine warms up (as it should) it seems the IAC is working. You should be looking at why the engine isn't getting enough air for a proper idle speed. I would start by checking the IAC passage in the TB for a restriction, such as a carbon build up. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/7/14 15:07
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Re: A Different Cleaning Problem |
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Senior Guru
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Jon, Thank you. I have long been aware that the front and rear TBs used different injectors. The only difference I have heard of was in the flow ratings. I have never heard before of a different spray pattern nor have I ever noticed one. Certainly, I will look closer. With the swirl plates beneath the TBs and the plenum of the manifold as it is, I can't imagine the purpose. You are the expert. I appreciate the info. Your information and speculation concerning silicone getting into the injector is encouraging. I will take you up on your offer, and I will e-mail all the details surrounding my problem. Thank you. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/7/9 18:13
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Re: Coolant systems (clean and properly maintained) |
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Senior Guru
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Once again, while mostly technically correct, in most cases, of little practical application. Which is worse? The electrolysis enabled by water with minerals that will conduct a current or the deterioration of the metals caused by the exchange of ions?
"Phosphorous eats Aluminum by itself....add a current to that and see how quickly that process speeds up......why do you think the heater core goes so readily in our cars???" Despite the "facts not in evidence", objection, MY heater core was brass, not aluminum. "To build a Electrolysis system....you need to have DC power supply and anodes and cathodes to transmit that direct current into the fluid." In our case, here, the cooling system IS the source of dc power. The dissimilar metals are the anode and cathode and the electricity conducting coolant is the electrolyte. The cooling system becomes a battery. Even with no battery in the car, voltage can be measured in the cooling system. "Now go look at how your entire car uses the Block as the ground. A current is always (as designed) flowing through your system." Point? RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/7/9 17:55
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Re: Dana 36 Clutch Packs - where are they sold? |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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I don't question that part number is correct. Spicer has (used to at least) a habit of assigning more part numbers than necessary, and at times you had to guess how the buy the item. Based on your experience and the linked web sites, I have no doubt 706962X is the kit that services the D36 clutch pack. With out searching, as vetteoz did, it is hard to know if the part number in the book is the number serviced. Both numbers show in my kit breakdown book. Those will be the correct parts. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/7/9 17:22
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Re: Coolant systems (clean and properly maintained) |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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I, in no way, have a perfect maintenance record. I have been fairly good about keeping my cooling system flushed and maintained. And if it makes you feel better by my openly admitting that I have replaced my heater core, than so be it. I have. All the speculation and theory is mostly correct. But what will testing my coolant with a Fluke Multimeter do for me? What are the real world consequences? Will all the dissolved solids deteriorate the coolant and leave debris in the radiator faster than scheduled maintenance can correct it? I am not recommending against distilled water, but I question the benefits. Especially where there is adequate maintenance. I would avoid local tap water that has a lot of minerals, and I agree with the comment made about softened water. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/7/9 15:02
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Re: Dana 36 Clutch Packs - where are they sold? |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/7/9 14:26
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Re: A Different Cleaning Problem |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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Thanks for the reply. What I quoted is where you lost me. I have not noticed a different spray pattern between my front and my rear injectors. Have I not looked closely enough? I never noticed a "half cone pattern". Also, it isn't clear to me, which you are saying "This IMO hinders the performance.", the OEM or the after market injectors. Is the silicone a unique situation? Is this something I can deal with at home, on my own? Would it help if I posted or e-mailed the long detailed description of the circumstances? Thanks. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/7/8 19:00
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Re: Coolant systems (clean and properly maintained) |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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Posts:
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Quote:
That is an excellent point. Quote:
What about your cooling system? Quote:
And holes in your radiator. Quote:
No argument about the contamination. However, some water has more minerals than others. Well water is more likely to have dissolved mineral than rain or lake water. When you first posted, "Hence do not drink the stuff" I misunderstood and thought that you were referring to tap water. It is almost as if you believe distilled or deionized water would have prevented your brown coolant and saved you from buying a radiator. I have never used distilled or deionized water and I never seen brown coolant in my car. I think regular preventive maintenance is more important than using either. The only proof I have is a cool engine and a 26 year old radiator.  RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/7/8 0:50
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Re: check it out... |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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Posts:
372
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Do your homework before you invest in the Hella envelopes. The word on the street is that the spread between the high and low beams is too great for a lower profile car like a Corvette. If the low beams are aimed properly the high beams are in the trees. If the high beams are aimed right, the low beams hit the road too close to the car to do much good. Check it out before you spend your hard earned.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/7/8 0:14
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Re: Dana 36 Clutch Packs - where are they sold? |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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I would start by checking with Dana (Spicer) parts distributors. My older books show the clutch pack (disc kit) as Spicer part number 706876X. I doubt that part number has any other application. Many American made 4X4s have Spicer (Dana) axles. People specializing in 4X4s and off roading constantly deal in Spicer (Dana) parts. However, I doubt there is crossover from the trucks to Corvettes. You may be stuck with dealing with one of the Corvette specialists. Good luck.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/7/8 0:06
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Re: A Different Cleaning Problem |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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Maybe I misunderstood. I thought this section was a vendor site for FIC. I am aware FIC cleans, services, and rebuilds fuel injectors. That is why I posted here. I was seeking professional advice on this particular situation. If I was predisposed to sending it out, I would have already done that. Should I have sent FIC an e-mail? Thanks.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/7/7 23:41
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Re: Coolant systems (clean and properly maintained) |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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Posts:
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Quote:
Quote:
WHAT??? Quote:
So on one hand you say, "Hence do not drink the stuff", and then you say, "Guess what that Deionized water was doing to him as it ran through his body???" I guess the point you are making is don't drink water??? Whatever works for you. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/7/6 20:59
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A Different Cleaning Problem |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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Posts:
372
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Here is a question I haven't seen addressed before. I wrote a huge post detailing all the circumstances, but long story short. How can I clean a TBI fuel injector, where RTV has been used in the fuel system? After a few weeks with no apparent problems, suddenly it no longer sprays at all. Is there help for this?
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/7/6 19:20
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Re: Coolant systems (clean and properly maintained) |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
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Scold all you want. YOU have replaced your radiator. I haven't. The proof is in the... I don't recommend water that is heavy with minerals. The clean, clear, odor free, tasteless, tap water where I live seems appropriate for cooling systems. Distilled water has no, or few, ions. It will be hungry for ions and the ions will come from your radiator. I use a lot of water when I flush my cooling system. My reasons for not using distilled water have nothing to do with cost. Convenience and need are the bigger factors. If I thought there was much to be gained by using distilled water, I would. My coolant, with or without antifreeze, has never been brown. Ions, no ions, minerals, no minerals, etc. theories make great conversation. I don't care about the argument. My car runs as cool, if not cooler, than it should with a 26 year old radiator. Scold me, beat me, whip me, then tell me what I would have gained using distilled water? A brighter smile? RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/7/5 18:03
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Re: Coolant systems (clean and properly maintained) |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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Posts:
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"Completely stock" would include a 195° thermostat that would only allow a temp of 179°, as pictured, during warm up or cool down. I use a 180° thermostat and altered fan on and off temps. I really should change back to a 195° stat so it will run at warmer temps. Mine will run that hot in bumper to bumper city traffic or sitting still idling. My fan comes in at 206° and the temps drop to 196° where the fan shuts off. The water pump was replaced with a stock replacement back in the 80s or more likely the 90s. My radiator has the factory installed core. On occasion, especially when my track didn't allow antifreeze, I used Water Wetter for the water pump lubricant and rust inhibitor package. Other than that, green antifreeze and tap water. I have tried to flush and maintain it fairly regularly. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/7/3 14:57
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Re: Driveline assembly procedure |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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???? How do you adjust the drive shaft alignment? RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/6/29 14:41
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Re: Dana 36 Pinion Seal |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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372
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The seal seals against the drive line yoke installed on the pinion, not the pinion (shaft?). The seal surface on the yoke could be worn or grooved as suggested or possibly the pinion nut wasn't properly tightened and the pinion is moving. Of course that would likely ruin the pinion bearings. There is a baffle or slinger on the pinion between the bearings and the yoke. If left out it would tend to over load the seal with grease to try to control.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/6/29 14:35
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Re: mallory distributor 474B201A D70-9 to a 84 xfire a/t |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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372
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Quote:
You neither did nor said anything wrong. I am happy if you didn't see my original post. Your opening post wasn't very clear and I was rude in dealing with it. There really isn't anything about the original computer controlled HEI to rebuild. If the shaft is tight in the bushings and they aren't worn, about all you can do is make sure the electrical components are in working order and make sure the cap and rotor aren't excessively worn or burnt. It really isn't a formal spec, but I like to shim the end play on the distributor shaft to between .006" and .010". The factory HEI not only is, and looks stock, it is an excellent distributor for mild ,plus, performance work. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/6/11 23:57
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Re: Progress on temperature |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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Posts:
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On your 1987, the main fan is controlled by the computer. Only the auxiliary fan, if so equipped, is controlled by the aux fan switch in the left head. Without additional wiring you can't change the main fan temps with a just a switch change. I don't know what switches or switch kits you might be considering. 210° for the main fan to come on is a very good choice. I wouldn't go any lower. My fan only comes on in heavy stop and go traffic or idling. I have the factory installed radiator core. Driving down the highway below 90° ambient temps my car barely hits 180° with a 180° stat (too cool, really). On the highway the oil eventually tops out at 230°, cruising. I also have a manual fan switch for track use. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/6/11 16:08
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Re: mallory distributor 474B201A D70-9 to a 84 xfire a/t |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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Larry,
I apologize for my initial response. It was an inappropriate and thankfully it and reactions to it have been removed. Hopefully you didn't get to see it. Your posts are a little vague. Is the Mallory distributor made to be computer controlled? I am curious about the statement, "I found this distributor listed. for my 84,as a replacement.". A replacement distributor should need little or no "adapting" to your cars wiring. Trying to adapt a non computer controlled distributor to your car will be difficult at best. The stock ECM looks for pulses from the distributor to know when the engine is rotating. Without those pulses the computer doesn't know the engine is turning and among other things, won't energize the fuel pump. The ballast resister is one clue you've that you have a non computer controlled distributor. The resister is common for the old points type distributor, but shouldn't be necessary to install a compatible electronic distributor. Good luck. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/6/11 15:43
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Re: Digi Dash Tachometers & Repair |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
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Thanks for the help guys. Obviously I hadn't thought out the situation when I mentioned the switch. I agree a shift light is a valuable asset. I have just never used one. I'll be looking for dash repair info and vendors as well as shift lights. Thanks for the feed back and info.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/5/30 17:17
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Re: Digi Dash Tachometers & Repair |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
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Quote:
As little as possible for a decent visible light. Thanks for the references. I hadn't none any shopping, at all. Quote:
I will look into the Raptor also. I like the idea of placing it in the A/C vent where it isn't noticeable. I would also want an on/off switch for daily driving. I have been shifting at 6000 rpms, sometimes 6200. I think the valve float, flat cam, and clicking lifters, are the reason I've lowered my shift point to closer to 5600. I like to be able to read engine temp and rpms when racing. I am headed for the track shortly. I hate "flying blind". Thanks guys. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/5/29 18:10
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Re: Digi Dash Tachometers & Repair |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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Posts:
372
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I don't know that a faster ECM would improve the the tach. This is a common complaint from digi dash owners of all years. I think the tach signals are processed in the dash and not the ECM for display purposes. There are ECM conversions done to the Crossfire to the TBI pick up truck computers that are easier to change the programming on. A few years back when I broke one of the wires off of my tach filter, I bypassed the filter. It has worked great until just recently. The distributor seems to be fine. The goofy, infrequent speedometer reading seem do come only after a fairly hard bump. It reads "288" as if all of the elements of the LCD display are activated. The tach seems fine until over 5000 rpms. Then it displays nonsense, random numbers. The causes and the effects are both different for the tach and the speedo. They appear to be unrelated. I have no problems with any of the other readouts. A shift light would definitely solve the one issue, but I would still like to monitor my engine speed. Do you know of an economical shift light? Wasn't there a Corvette owner building them as a sideline? Your colors and gels are way beyond me. Thanks, and... RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/5/29 15:32
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Re: Digi Dash Tachometers & Repair |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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Posts:
372
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Thank you both of you. The second, corrected URL looks a lot like the original where the "continue" button doesn't work. When I wanted to continue I altered the URL in the address box of my browser by changing the "1" just before ".asp" to a "2". Page two appeared and the continue button worked on all the subsequent pages. Unfortunately, I had already done everything in that article before I let the "expert" fix my solder joints. I will proceed to check out Batee. Thanks for your help. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/5/29 15:10
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Digi Dash Tachometers & Repair |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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As most have probably noticed the tach in the digi dash (1984 - 1989) leaves a lot to be desired. It is slow, it lags, and it can't keep up. Does anyone have or know of someone that has a cure? Is there a way to move, remove, or substitute some resistors? Different transistor(s)? Etc?
Besides my slow tach, my speedo would go nuts for a few seconds, once in a while after I hit a bump. The tach worsened to where besides lagging started producing nonsense in the upper ranges. A couple of times I have blown the 3 amp "Inst lmps" fuse that protects the 4 bulbs that illuminate the panel, only when the headlights are on. The fuse has blown twice and only at the track. With malfunctions adding up, I took the unit to a local repair outfit that has had success in fixing these things by checking and correcting bad connections. He said he didn't see any problems with mine, but that he re flowed the solder on some of the joints that looked questionable. Now the dash doesn't work at all. I am looking for someone that not only can repair it but also improve it. I know I am not the first. Does anyone have any recommendations? RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/5/28 15:04
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Re: 410 CFM Miniram... |
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Senior Guru
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372
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I'm sure my project wasn't 1% the work of your, but I know how you feel. That is a great post with a lot of detail. Thanks from me and I'm sure all those with Mini Rams will be inspired to create Mamo Rams. Great name! I'm looking forward to watching it run. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/5/28 14:36
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Re: 410 CFM Miniram... |
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Senior Guru
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2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
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372
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It adds material where there was none. Either because it wasn't there "as cast" or possibly to re-establish a shape that was altered and worked better as it was. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/5/28 14:18
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Re: speedo inop |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
Posts:
372
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Do NOT simply replace the TPS out of hand because of the code. It is too easy to test to just throw away without knowing. The code could have been caused by something as simple and cheap as a poor electrical connection. A code gets set when the ECM receives an out of parameter reading. That is a reading that doesn't match the readings of the other sensors, something out side of the expected range. The possible causes of codes are multiple. Trouble shooting is necessary to determine the cause of each code. So often I see posted, "The code (computer) said I had a bad XYZ sensor. There are no codes that call for the replacement of anything. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/5/17 16:13
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Re: Driver window issue |
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Senior Guru
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I can't question the experience of your window expert, but my similar repair has lasted countless years. It has been so long since I fixed it I don't remember when it was. Probably not in this century. The ribbon for the Mopar van sold under the Help brand is too long. I DO remember having to re-remove the regulator because as I lowered the window, the ribbon hit the inside of the door shell and wouldn't allow the window to lower, completely. If anything, I thought the replacement was thicker, beefier, than the original.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/5/12 14:27
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Re: Low Oil Pressure.....PLEASE HELP? |
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Senior Guru
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I'm not familiar with your '96, but an 800 rpm idle, warmed up sounds high to me. Is this what it has always been? Could you forgot or miss-connected something resulting in a minor vacuum leak? Oil pressure is the result of resistance to flow. Either the resistance has been reduced as in a spun bearing or some other loss of resistance in the oil system (too much clearance for a new lifter?) or the flow has been compromised. You didn't possibly drop something into the engine that could be partially blocking the oil pick up, did you? RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/5/10 15:41
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Re: Camshaft opinions |
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Senior Guru
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2005/9/9 0:00 From Top of Utah
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372
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I know of a good used ZZ9 if you decide to go that route. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/5/8 14:22
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Re: Car is running great, public thanks to Mseven |
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Senior Guru
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It sounds like the car is in it's final tune for this stage. Congrats. Josh & Mseven... quite a combination.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/5/5 14:04
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Re: Timing and Harmonic Balancer/Damper |
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Senior Guru
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372
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The timing light will flash when the spark fires. It will not be off because of where the #1 wire is plugged into the cap. You can use any terminal in the cap for #1 if the rotor is correctly oriented. If the timing marks are off, then the timing is off too. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/5/4 15:10
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Re: School me on balancing |
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Senior Guru
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The same is true of the less expensive cast parts. Cast parts don't wear more quickly than forged parts, they just aren't as strong. If your "driven as a stock type car" isn't built to produce a lot more power than stock and it is "driven as a stock type car" the cast parts will last just as long as the forged counterparts. My poor old 1984, with 165,000+ miles on it, is worn out. It has probably in excess of 800 quarter mile passes on it and my cast iron crank shaft hasn't broken yet, even under the strain of slightly more than stock horse power. What ever wear that crank has, wouldn't be any less if it were forged. Forged is stronger, but no more wear resistant. When an engine is balanced, all the components of the rotating assembly are made to be equal weight. The piston weights are equalized, the big ends of the rods, the small end of the rods, piston pins, etc. are made equal weight within a small tolerance. A bob weight is made up for each crank throw, based on the total weights of the rotating and replicating components. Then the crank is spun up and balanced. The balance is achieved by removing weight from the crankshaft in the proper places. If there isn't enough weight in the crank at the right place, it can be added to the flywheel (flex plate) at the rear or the damper at the front as the factory does in some cases. To a point, the more accurate the balance, the smoother the engine will feel and the less the strain on parts as it spins up. The higher you rev it the greater the forces of imbalance and the greater the importance of the balance accuracy. Confused yet? RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/5/4 15:00
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Re: What household product can I use for a radiator flush? |
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You might check again. After all, those are the block drain holes. In the days before knock sensors I had one that wasn't open to the coolant, I thought. With the plug out it was as dry as a bone. Finally, I took a small screw driver and with it against the bottom of the hole, I hit it with the palm of my hand enough times to break through the build up of rust and sludge. It felt as solid as a rock until I got my bath of antifreeze. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/4/30 15:21
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Re: Anyone ever run without IAC? |
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The IAC opens and closes as commanded by the ECM in order to attempt to maintain the idle speed. I highly doubt the IAC is causing your lean mixture. Especially not at 68 to 70 mph. Certainly Joe knows computers and programming much better than I do, but one problem I am aware of with cams with a lot of overlap that won't idle, is in the minimum air adjustment. With the idle programmed at a workable speed there is usually still a lope. The spec minimum air adjustment has the throttle blades closed so far that the idle speed is allowed to drop too low. As the engine lopes, and the engine drops below the programmed speed, the ECM/IAC open to raise the speed. The open IAC allows the speed to exceed programmed and the IAC closes. The ECM/IAC can't react fast enough. As the target idle speed is exceeded, the IAC gets closed again. The idle goes from too fast to too slow in a widening range. The idle speed is in a death spiral as the highest speeds and lowest speeds get further and further apart and the engine finally dies. Have your idle speed programmed into your chip where it will maintain a reasonable idle (don't forget the timing advance) and then set the throttle stop screw (minimum air adjustment) 100 - 200 rpm below the idle speed. The higher minimum air adjustment will prevent the idle speed from swinging in such a large spiral. Hopefully that will eliminate the dying at idle. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/4/27 14:54
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Re: Anyone ever run without IAC? |
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I don't know how big your cam is, but I do know that adding timing advance at idle speed can strengthen and smooth an unruly idle. Disconnecting the IAC eliminates any increased cold idle speed. I agree that the solution is more in the software than the hardware. I have seen where once the proper idle speed has been established, that the minimum air adjustment was set higher to prevent over compensation by the ECM/IAC from killing the engine.
My experience with altering the TPS voltage was that too much made the throttle ultra sensitive. It was hard to hold a steady speed while cruising on the highway. It made the car uncomfortable and of course, it didn't make any more power. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/4/25 16:07
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Re: #$&^*!@ Trans |
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Senior Guru
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I know you have the answer from reading your other thread but just to finish this off and set the record straight. As stated the shaft offset for the two VSSes is different. And the wrong VSS can be rotated 180° to save buying a VSS when making a gear ratio change. However, the VSS only changes when the drive gear changes. Since your old 2.59 gears uses the same red, 17 tooth drive gear, the VSS stays the same and shouldn't be rotated. If you were changing rear gears that required the grey, 15 tooth drive gear, you would need the other VSS or to rotate your old VSS. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/4/19 17:09
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Re: Track times for the 383/TFS heads/Mini-ram |
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Those are nice runs. The 118 MPH is the horse power indicator, the dyno. Very interesting and good job.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/4/19 16:45
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Re: Lift, coil bind, etc. |
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The figure I am familiar with is .060" clearance between the spring coils at maximum valve lift. Since you will be replacing the springs, just buy the springs the cam manufacturer specs for the cam you buy. When your heads are being set up, tell the builder the amount of lift your cam has and ask him to set the installed spring height accordingly.
Unless your valve train geometry is off, there should be no need to buy push rods. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/4/17 14:47
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Re: Air Flow Research (AFR) 195's VS Trick Flow Specialties (TFS) 195's - Test within |
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But I digress. Now back to your regularly scheduled head test. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/4/14 14:23
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Re: Air Flow Research (AFR) 195's VS Trick Flow Specialties (TFS) 195's - Test within |
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That sounds like good progress. RMR had it's season opening T&T circus last Saturday. You didn't miss a thing. Continued good luck with the comparo.
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/4/13 14:13
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Re: Post of the day |
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I am a fan of headers, especially the proper headers for the application, but wild assed claims crediting headers for all the gain coming from a complete exhaust system overhaul, where certain parts (the cats) could have been severely clogged, is nuts. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/4/8 14:55
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Re: L98, they run hot. |
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??? To be honest, I had the radiator shop supply and install the tanks. My only experience is that the repairs have lasted. My radiator core has 165,000+ miles on it and it still cools very well. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/4/5 23:01
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Re: intake manifold gasket replacement |
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I disagree on the "let it skin over" idea. I have use both RTV and The Right Stuff (preferred). I would rather have the manifold set onto the sealant ASAP, for the best bond to the manifold. If you let it skin over it may not stick or seal as well. I've never heard of anyone letting it skin over before applying it to the block. Why would it be best to have it skin over before contact with cast aluminum but not cast iron?
RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/4/5 22:55
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Re: L98, they run hot. |
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There is no question the Dewitts radiators are a quality and highly effective radiator. If one has a high output engine that can't be cooled by a well maintained stock cooling system, the Dewitts is the way to go. Even a mildly modified engine is easily cooled by the stock cooling system. My car has the factory installed radiator core, and it still cools like a champ. I have had a side tank replaced twice. I don't know if it was one side twice or each side one time only. But whichever, those "aluminum fingers, and they are a bend twice and break deal..." have been holding up just fine, for years.
If you have a radiator seems questionable, you can remove it and have it flow tested. The radiator shop will advise you as to whether it needs or even can be rodded out. I am not aware that mine has been rodded, but I can't be positive what might have been done while the tank was being replaced. I wasn't advised or charged for it. If a radiator needs to be replaced, and there isn't the need for the superior Dewitts, stick with the OE style from a quality reputable manufacturer like Modine, Delco, or the like. Don't be fooled by the hype of some aftermarket will-fit suppliers that brag about their two, three, or more rows of their copper/brass replacement radiators. It takes a two or three row copper/brass radiator to equal the cooling capacity of a good one row aluminum core radiator. The plastic tanks are a price compromise. All aluminum is a better idea, but unless price isn't a consideration, the aluminum core with plastic side tanks, OE style is still the best choice. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/4/5 17:30
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Re: Bad starter? |
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372
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Okay, but it sounds like you got a rebuilt solenoid for $225.00, the same as I described that you could had got for free. The starter still could fail. Quote:
An AZ rebuilt complete starter WITH solenoid would have been $130.00, exchange. RACE ON!!!
Posted on: 2009/4/5 0:21
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