All Posts (Dale1990)
Re: Broken valve spring, again... Why? |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
 
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
 |
Thanks for the info guys! I'll see if I can get one of the good ones removed and give it to a machine shop for a pressure test (unless they charge more than the tool will cost). What info will they need to know - just the installed height and the max lift? That would basically be the closed pressure and open pressure, right? I guess I'll have to pick up the valve micrometer to get those values.
I'll take a good look (and pics) at the rocker and valve tip to see if anything is amiss there, too. Since I'll have to rotate the engine anyway, I'll try throwing a feeler in there and see if anything is obvious. For removing the springs, any recommendations/tips? I've done it with the pry-bar style (like this) and it went OK. Would one like this be easier? When I did this last time I had the head off the car and used the big c-clamp-looking thingy which was really easy. PeteK, you're impression is spot on. I'm just a little shaky on what I'm doing so I'm asking a lot of questions  EDIT: Churchkey, thanks for looking up the cam specs! I'm going to see if the cam sheet from the "tuner" is still around in the files and see if that matches - hopefully it does so we have some good numbers to work with.
Posted on: 2010/4/13 14:21
|
|
 Transfer
|
 
|
|
Re: Broken valve spring, again... Why? |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
I don't know much about this stuff so please forgive the questions.
If I get the pressure tester, what is that going to tell me about why I'm breaking springs? I can see using the micrometer to get the installed height then subtracting the total lift and see if I still have >.060 left. How do I get the total lift? Do I hope the cam card the previous owner gave me is right and use the lift * 1.6? Would I be better off just rotating the engine and use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the coils on an intake and exhaust spring? Sorry for the questions - I'm just trying to wrap my head around what I'm trying to do.
Posted on: 2010/4/12 15:09
|
|
|
_________________
86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
||
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Broken valve spring, again... Why? |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Quote:
Thanks for the info. Removing the springs won't be a problem but how do I "check the open and closed pressures at your installed heights"? I assume there is some spiffy tool I'm going to have to buy for this. Is there a decent tutorial anywhere on how to do this? Thanks! Also, if this is a fairly well known thing that stock springs won't work in this setup I'm a little miffed that the "tuner" would have done this.
Posted on: 2010/4/11 19:15
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Broken valve spring, again... Why? |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
I'm in the middle of buttoning up the 86 after installing an LT1 intake thanks to "project creep" after finding some bad injectors. While cleaning things up and poking around with a flashlight, I found a broken spring on #2-exhaust. I guess I found why she was running rough. In hindsight, I should have done a compression check.
Anyway, this is the second time I've had to replace a spring on this car. The last time was a few thousand miles ago on either #6 or #8. I replaced all 16 springs on that head at the time. The replacements were from LPE but they turned out to be Melling and probably stock (judging by what is on the '90). As far as I know, the setup is an LPE 219 cam, 1.6 roller rockers (unknown brand) all riding on ported '113 heads with what appears to be stock springs. Am I just this unlucky or something funny going on here? Are these the wrong kind of springs for this application or did I just get 2 bad batches? What should I be looking for? Thanks!
Posted on: 2010/4/10 18:45
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Tips on part-throttle tuning |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Using an emulator would be the way to go but, unfortunately, I don't have access to another driver so I have to do things the old-fashioned way.
Thanks for the tips on adding advance as the fuel is pulled.
Posted on: 2010/3/22 19:46
|
|
|
_________________
86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
||
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Tips on part-throttle tuning |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Hey all,
I was hoping I could get a few tips on part-throttle tuning my 90 6-speed. The engine is running fine with no noticeable mechanical issues but during datalogging I can see that my BLMs are not great - fairly rich overall. No major knock events though thank goodness. I already know how to use TunerPro and my Autoprom to change settings and burn chips for simple things like fan temps, injector constants, EGR flags, etc. but I haven't really messed with the VE or spark tables. I'm not planning on using a Wideband until I get my feet wet a little. I've read that starting with getting the VE straightened out first is the way to go - then spark then back to VE. How do you guys get decent data to find the VE changes? Take a long drive then mull over the thousands of data points? Short drives targeting certain regions of the tables? What's the best way you've found to calculate the changes? I've got a nice long trip coming up this week so if a long drive is the way to go then I'm set. If I know what to look for in the data, I'd probably write an app to do most of the figurin' for me. Thanks!
Posted on: 2010/3/22 18:24
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Paint |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
We used a quite a bit of filler on the 86 when we repainted it - removing a body kit. We didn't have it in the sun nor did we bake it and we never had any paint bubbles. Interesting.
EDIT: It probably did sit a day or three in the garage between filling and priming.
Posted on: 2010/3/15 21:26
|
|
|
_________________
86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
||
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Resonated core catalytic converters |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Once upon a time I was going to switch to an LT1 exhaust to help with the racket and resonance but after I fixed my C-Beam most of that disappeared. All that is left is a little bit at cruise (sub-2k). I was hoping this gizmo might fit the bill a little cheaper.
I may still wind up doing an exhaust setup as you suggest. My problem is finding a decent exhaust shop around here. So far I have been less than impressed with the shops around here. Thanks!
Posted on: 2010/3/15 12:20
|
|
|
_________________
86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
||
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Corvette chiropractic treatment |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Hmmm... Good idea. I did have to take the beam out to prep it for the sealant so I could have done it then. I hadn't planned to pull it completely when I started, though, so I put the plates together first.
I'll have to think about that for next time. I don't want to touch this thing again for a long time
Posted on: 2010/3/9 13:16
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Corvette chiropractic treatment |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
I thought about brazing the nuts to the plates but I figured that between my measurements and the alignment of the beam I might not be able to make it go together without some "slop" built in. Someone with better fabrication skills could make it work, tho.
On the way home I noticed that something is still moving around under there on bad bumps. I'm going to have to do some more looking around. It sure was nice to drive tho.
Posted on: 2010/3/9 3:46
|
|
|
_________________
86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
||
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Corvette chiropractic treatment |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
"You'll feel fine when your spine's in line!"
Just a friendly reminder to make sure your C-beam (driveline support) bolts are tight. In the last few months my 90 has been getting louder, looser and rougher. Lots of noise going over bumps, interior vibrations and just general crappy driving experience. My tip-off as to the cause was a lot of shifter rise on heavy acceleration. After some reading, this pointed to C-Beam trouble. After pulling the x-brace and exhaust I found that 3 of the bolts were barely snug and only 1 was actually tight. Not good.  Since I had so much fun putting a wrench on the nuts during removal, I decided to weld (actually braze) a few pieces of plate and angle iron to replace the washers and hold the nuts so I don't have to. Pics. Kinda like beam plates but probably not as strong and definitely not as pretty. They did make it much easier to install the bolts tho. I also grabbed a tube of spiffy urethane sealant for the mounting flanges as the manual recommends. I found a few random posts on various forums mentioning using RTV but I don't think it would work based on what I saw with the urethane - same stuff used to glue windshields according to the manual. Nasty stuff. I hope it helps. As for the results... it's like a completely different car. Very tight and very confident. The "squat and go" acceleration is back. I'd say about 70% of my rattles and noises disappeared. There is still some shifter rise, tho. I am very happy even tho it took probably 20+ hours over 3 days to do it although a bit of that was teaching myself how to weld/braze.
Posted on: 2010/3/8 16:23
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Resonated core catalytic converters |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
That sounds pretty expensive since it would mean redoing most of the current piping. I'd have to lose the Hooker front Y pipe and the Flowmaster rear Y. I'd rather not do that if possible. This would be a bolt-in (sorta) and I could do it in my driveway.
Posted on: 2010/3/8 15:30
|
|
|
_________________
86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
||
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Resonated core catalytic converters |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Does anyone have any experience with resonated core catalytic converters? Ex. Magnaflow 94409. How effective are they at quieting exhaust? Are they going to cause a big performance hit?
My current exhaust setup is Hooker LTs to a test pipe to a Flowmaster 50 series cat-back. I want to chuck the test pipe and go back to a real cat again - thinking green and all that. Also, I'd like to cut the noise at cruising speed. I used a regular Magnaflow cat on the 86 and it did cut the drone a little but not much. I didn't notice any significant performance hit. Thanks!
Posted on: 2010/3/8 15:13
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Banski MotorSports in Corvette Enthusiast and Vette magazines |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Sounds like it might make a nice upgrade/replacement for my current poly setup. I'm getting tired of the squeaks considering my quest to make my car more livable/refined on the street.
Posted on: 2010/1/20 13:58
|
|
|
_________________
86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
||
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Help removing SuperRam |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
I appreciate the input but I really want this thing gone. It may be a great intake for performance but I refuse to put up with the PITA it brings for maintenance. I've probably blown about 10hrs trying to get this thing off between drilling out all of the lid bolts and trying to pry the lid and plenum off. Having to remove the valve covers to get the runners off because the designers were too stupid to notch the runner flange to remove the injectors was the last straw.
As to the lost torque, we'll see what happens. I can always switch it back. Although if I do that I'll have to make some adjustments.
Posted on: 2010/1/11 0:53
|
|
|
_________________
86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
||
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Help removing SuperRam |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
I got a PM from someone on CF that is willing to part with his converted LT1 setup for a reasonable price so if all goes well that is probably the route I am going to take.
Once that is installed and going the SR will be on the market. It's only the runners and plenum, tho. When LPE did the install in the early 90's they used the stock base (emissions?). I don't know if it is ported or not but I'll find out tomorrow when I pull the runners off.
Posted on: 2010/1/8 3:41
|
|
|
_________________
86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
||
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Help removing SuperRam |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
I'm not completely up on the going rate for SR runners and plenum but $100 seems a bit low but tempting. I will be putting this thing up for sale tho if I can find either a reasonably priced MiniRam or someone who does the machining for LT1 conversions.
Posted on: 2010/1/7 14:59
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Help removing SuperRam |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
OK. I got the lid and plenum off. As with most car projects, I just needed a bigger pipe and a larger hammer.
Now the fun part. The fuel rail doesn't look like it will come out w/o removing the runners. Problem is, the bottom bolt on each runner pair doesn't look like it can be taken off w/o removing the friggin valve covers. I hate the Super Ram. They took the worst parts of the old TPI and made them even worse - amazing.
Posted on: 2010/1/6 23:17
|
|
|
_________________
86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
||
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Help removing SuperRam |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Yup, all the bolts are out. I can vividly remember drilling out each one
. It's only the top lid so they are easy to see. I can't wait until I have to remove the plenum... YayI was using large screwdrivers to pry at the TB flange but they were too small. I'll head out and try to find something wider and stronger. I'll also take a peek for that RTV solvent. This thing really makes me want to drop a MR or converted LT1 on here. Thanks for the help!
Posted on: 2010/1/6 15:43
|
|
|
_________________
86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
||
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Help removing SuperRam |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
I am trying to replace the leaking injectors on the 86 and have hit a snag. I removed all of the bolts but I can't remove the lid. I've tried prying the lid at various points around the outside but it seems that it is recessed so I can't get under it. I've also tried to pry up from inside the plenum by standing on a large pipe run thru the TB mounting plate (TB is removed) with no luck.
To try to eliminate the numerous vacuum leaks we had, the last time we had it apart we used the Right Stuff smeared on the gasket material on reassembly. Not a good idea, apparently. Any other ideas, tips, tricks? Are there any nifty chemicals to loosen up the RTV? Would applying heat help any? Thanks!
Posted on: 2010/1/5 23:34
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Are Dogbones Easy? |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
I used an El Cheap-o hydraulic press from Harbor Freight. It popped right out with no drama.
Posted on: 2009/12/28 23:39
|
|
|
_________________
86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
||
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: ZF6 Fluids |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Quote:
Unfortunately, I don't have the email anymore - that was about 6 years ago. I do remember that the guy's name was Martin Vogel (I can't remember what I had for lunch but I can remember that?). I may still have the list he sent - it was in a Word doc that I think I printed out and stuffed in the car file. EDIT: My last 2 changes have been with the BMW stuff and I have been pleased with the results but I'm probably going to try the Amsoil MTF next time (15k miles or so). No particular reason. Altho, CC's suggestion in that Cf thread of Canola and Mayo might be worth a shot.
Posted on: 2009/12/28 23:28
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: ZF6 Fluids |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
I guess I wasn't aware that was considered a "story". I emailed ZF a few years ago and was told that the GM fluid, BMW/Castol TWS 10w60 and a select list of ATF were all acceptable for the S6-40.
Posted on: 2009/12/28 20:05
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: ZF6 Fluids |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Quote:
What internet story? The one that says the BMW oil is recommended fill for the ZF6?
Posted on: 2009/12/28 19:21
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Recommended replacement for leaking injectors |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Cool! I'll be ordering them soon. Thanks for the the help!
Posted on: 2009/12/28 13:37
|
|
|
_________________
86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
||
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Recommended replacement for leaking injectors |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
In a different thread I found I have at least one leaking injector. Any suggestions for a replacement?
The engine is a Super-Rammed 383 with ported 113 heads and an LPE JL2 cam, I believe. Basically, a mild 383. The last time these injectors were send in for cleaning, they flowed 24.4-24.8lbs IIRC so I would guess some 24lb-ers would fit the bill. Thanks!
Posted on: 2009/12/27 20:22
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: 86 running rough, hard starting and power loss |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Sorry, I forgot to mention the engine... it's a mild 383. The injectors coming off were cleaned/tested a few years ago and the print out shows they flow 24-25lbs.
Thanks!
Posted on: 2009/12/27 0:30
|
|
|
_________________
86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
||
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: 86 running rough, hard starting and power loss |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Thanks for posting the tech manual! My copy is about 160 miles from me :D
According to A-7 we have leaking injectors as I thought. I was hoping it was something else so I didn't have to touch the cursed intake again. I was thinking of replacing them with these. The injectors in there are 24lbs so would these make a nice replacement? Thanks again!
Posted on: 2009/12/26 19:08
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: 86 running rough, hard starting and power loss |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Quote:
If I block the pressure line, wouldn't that be cutting off the fuel flow from the pump to the rail and give me 0 pressure? I'm going to give the car a test drive with the gauge attached tomorrow so I can get some readings under load. I broke one of the plugs yesterday and have to wait for the parts stores to open to get a replacement before I can get her back on the road.
Posted on: 2009/12/25 22:40
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: 86 running rough, hard starting and power loss |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
I forgot to mention that I did change the fuel filter Tuesday. But, I'm not sure how a clogged filter would cause the pressure to drop to 0 so quickly.
I still need to check the pressure while the engine is running, but it holds the rail to 43 fine while it's on.
Posted on: 2009/12/25 14:20
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
86 running rough, hard starting and power loss |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
In the last few weeks, I've noticed the the 86 has been running very rough particularly during warm-up but still quite noticeable when up to temp and cruising. Cranking is taking longer than usual when cold or hot.
Acceleration is not what it used to be, either. It used to be very crisp/sharp when rapidly hitting the gas but now it feels very dull - almost like the engine is "laboring". I started pulling the plugs and found that 5 were a little carboned but that may have been from just pulling it into the garage with no warm-up. The center electrode and ground strap were a light to medium gray. One plug was very black. No large chunks of carbon build-up but it was obviously very rich. I didn't pull the other 2 plugs (6 and 8) because of the retarded LPE headers. I didn't have that many hours to kill. The dist. cap and rotor are 18k miles old and look OK - no major buildup or scoring on the tips or button. For fun, I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and turning the key to run brought the pressure right up to 43ish PSI. However, once the pump stopped, the pressure dropped to 0 within 1 second. I'm guessing this is bad. I carefully used a Vice-Grip to close off the return line at the tank and the pressure dropped at the same rate as far as I can tell. Does this sound like a fuel injector problem? Is there anything else that I should check? This is a Super-Rammed car so I'd like to be as sure as I can before I pull that nightmare intake off. Thanks!!
Posted on: 2009/12/25 13:46
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: What about my rear end... |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Unless your differential has been modified from stock, it does not have a drain plug. I would suggest buying a suction gun from your favorite auto parts store and use it to suck out all of the old fluid (not grease). Clean the gun out and use it to suck the fluid from bottles of new fluid and refill until the level is just below the plug when the car is level.
The type/brand of fluid is debatable. Personally, I would steer clear of synthetics unless you race the car. The chance of creating leaks is fairly high and they are a pain to fix. I would just use a decent brand 70/90 or 80/90 gear oil and call it a day. Be sure to add 2 bottles of posi additive. This is available from the dealer or there are some gear oils with a comparable additive already mixed in.
Posted on: 2009/9/22 20:05
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Engine buildup questions |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Quote:
Haha! Ain't that the truth. Quote:
Thanks for the ideas on prices - it really helps with getting a handle in the budget. Those prices are not too far off from what I figured.
Posted on: 2009/9/21 15:43
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Engine buildup questions |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Quote:
My engine will be backed up by a ZF6 and I've never dealt with a performance car with an auto so you'll have to forgive me if I don't know how stall speed translates into driveability. I assume an engine designed for a 2800 stall speed would probably not be very street friendly with a ZF6, right? After having to R/R the SR on the 86 a few times, I'd rather never have to even look at one of those intakes ever again. I checked this link posted by vetteoz in another thread, it looks like the HSR or the MR might be a good match to my goal altho it looks like I might wind up losing too much on the low end with the MR. How does the LT1 intake compare as far as powerband? Somewhere between the HSR and MR? I'm willing to sacrifice high-end to maintain low-end driveability.
Posted on: 2009/9/21 15:19
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Engine buildup questions |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Quote:
Honestly, I don't have one at the moment. This whole plan is still in the spit-ball stage so w/o knowing what I need it's hard to figure out a budget. But, I am not looking to build something uber-expensive - judging by the other responses, just a mild 383. This car will not be regularly drag-raced and only occasionally autocrossed. Most of its life will be spirited daily-driver duty so the latest/greatest/most expensive parts are not really necessary.
Posted on: 2009/9/21 15:15
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Engine buildup questions |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
I would seriously doubt I could get a decent LS1 into my Vette for $2k. I could get the engine for that, maybe. But that is less than half the total project.
I just want to replace my tired L98 with something more powerful but still retain good driveablity and have a broader powerband than the TPI. Ignore the C6 comment. The 86 Vette in my garage with an LPE 383 is pretty damn close to what I am looking for - 365 rwhp, fairly smooth idle, and power up to 5500ish (SuperRam with stock base). It does have some drivability problems that could most likely be tuned out. But, it was built in the mid 90s and I had assumed Gen1 tech had moved on for the better. I also do not know what the specs are on that engine besides a SR 383 with ported 113 heads. This thread is probably shot to hell at this point - I had no idea that one off-hand comment about a C6 would screw everybody up so much. Forget I asked. I'll try again some other time.
Posted on: 2009/9/19 23:35
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Engine buildup questions |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
I considered an LSx conversion but it would wind up being way too expensive after all is said and done. I would be better off buying a C6 - which will happen eventually.
So, you're all saying it is not possible to make a 383 that can rev to 6k, has a street-friendly torque curve and smooth idle? I find that hard to believe. I am well aware that I can't replicate an LSx engine w/o using one. That is why I said "as possible".
Posted on: 2009/9/19 19:28
|
|
|
_________________
86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
||
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Hard starting |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
A bad filter could cause the problem but I would think you would also have problems while driving, too.
If you turn the key to "run" (not "start") with the engine off can you hear the fuel pump running? May need to have someone put their ear near the fuel cap to hear it. If not, the fuel pump relay could be on the blink. If you have a fuel pressure gauge you can do the same test and also check to make sure the pressure holds after the pump stops.
Posted on: 2009/9/19 17:07
|
|
|
_________________
86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
||
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Engine buildup questions |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
As promised at the end of this thread, here is my first set of stupid questions regarding engine combos
I'm starting with a 1990 Vette engine that has no known problems (according to the seller) and has ~90k miles. Coincidentally, this will be replacing a 90 but with 170k+ miles. So far, the only real plan I have is to make it a 383. Beyond that it gets foggy. I am not really up on all of the latest and greatest heads, cams, intakes, rotating parts, etc. so I am hoping I can get a little direction on where to start. What I would like out of the new engine: - Stockish driveability and reliability. The key word here would be "smooth". - I'd like to see a shift point somewhere near 6200RPM. No more L98 4800RPM stuff. - Decent low end torque. This will still be a daily driver so I'll still need to lug around town in high gears at low speed. - HP... dunno. I'd rather let the rest of the combo take shape and go from there. More power than a base C6 would be nice but...? I fell in love w/ the C6 engines in the cars I drove at Spring Mountain and I'd like to bring as much of that to my car as possible. Powerful but still smooth and quiet. What kind of ideas do you folks have on combos, parts, techniques that might make this all happen? I'm an engine rebuilding noob so any advice will be appreciated. This will be a pretty long term build up so I can wait on sales and maybe used parts where possible. It'll be a month or two before I finish painting the car. My mod budget took a hit with that one - forgot how expensive paint was. Thanks for the help!
Posted on: 2009/9/19 16:58
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: C4 Speed/Performance Parts |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Quote:
Then build it yourself. All it takes is a McMaster-Carr catalog, a hacksaw, a drill and a tape measure. But, I agree that the prices businesses charge for some of this stuff is unreal. Some of it is adding unnecessary fluff. Polishing or chroming, for example. I hate chrome, and don't really care about polish where my engine or suspension parts are concerned... just make it work.
Posted on: 2009/8/27 17:12
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Price for an L98/ZF6 combo |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
The seller is willing to accept $1k so I think I am going to go for it. I'm hoping to pick everything up this weekend.
I think the tranny may have a B&M shifter on it but I'll have to look closer. That would be a nice little bonus. Woohoo! Prepare for stupid questions about engine rebuilding and part selection 
Posted on: 2009/8/17 17:04
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Looking for a quiet exhaust system |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
I thought about having it cut. There seems to be quite a bit of long straights in the pics so welding it back together should fairly easy. Didn't think about the x-pipe... good idea.
Dino's might work if I have to but it's about 900mi round trip. That's about $100 in gas and probably 15hrs of driving. There's a few people parting out LTx cars on CF. I'll see if I can strike a deal over there. If all else fails, one of my coworkers has a 92 and I'm sure he'll never notice his exhaust missing when he leaves work
Posted on: 2009/8/15 19:11
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Price for an L98/ZF6 combo |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
I found a somewhat local 90 L98 and ZF6 with 90k miles on it for around $1200. I've been looking for a replacement ZF6 since 3rd gear on mine has been going for some time (new hydraulics).
And, with 170k on my engine, starting a nice slow rebuild might be a good thing. Give me time to watch for deals on good parts. So, does $1200 sound like a deal for a 90k mile L98 and ZF6 or is this definitely a pass? I haven't decided if I really want these parts but if its a deal I might not want to pass it up.
Posted on: 2009/8/15 17:35
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: 1" hole behind front license cover |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Isn't the outside air temp sensor behind there?
Posted on: 2009/8/15 17:28
|
|
|
_________________
86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
||
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Looking for a quiet exhaust system |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Sweet! Those pics really help. It looks like I might actually be able to make this work. Even tucks under an x-brace.
Magnaflow has a Spun Cat that is pretty cheap that might work in place of the RTs that seem to be quite a bit more expensive. Not SS tho. Now I just need to find an LT1 exhaust system.
Posted on: 2009/8/15 17:03
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Looking for a quiet exhaust system |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Nice pics!
So with that setup, I'd have to get the LT1 hangers and have a shop bend 2 pipes to go from the 3" headers to the resonator (2.5"?). Looks fairly simple assuming I can find a decent shop around here. The only prob I see is the cat. It doesn't look like there would be enough room to shove it in there. If the system is quiet enough w/o a cat I could survive.
Posted on: 2009/8/15 5:16
|
|
|
_________________
86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
||
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Looking for a quiet exhaust system |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
I did try something like the banana pic.
I tried putting a towel in each of the inner pipes hoping it would kill off some of the noise but no joy. Too bad, making an NPP style exhaust would have been pretty easy and fun.As for the Corsas, I'm not convinced they would do what I am looking for. I've haven't experienced them personally but from the vids, they seem anything but quiet. No droning at cruise would be nice but there is no way I could justify $1k+ for a cat-back unless it included a turbo. I didn't even want to pay $350 for the one I have. tobijohn, that sounds a lot like what I am looking for. I'd like to be able to hear the radio when I'm driving to work. And, if it works well with an LT4, my lowly L98 should be happy with it.Does anyone have a pic of the LTx exhaust? I'd like to see just what I would be getting myself into. Thanks for all the help guys!
Posted on: 2009/8/15 0:46
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Looking for a quiet exhaust system |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
I've had my current exhaust system on the 90 Vert for about 6 years and I have had enough of it. It's loud, causes the interior to vibrate and is generally annoying on trips over 30mins. After doing a class at Spring Mountain, I fell in love with the nice quiet sound of the stock C6s I got to run around the track. I think I have become "old".
 My current setup: Hooker Coated LTs -> Hooker Y-Pipe -> 3" "Test" pipe -> Flowmaster 50 cat-back (Force II?) Even tho I don't have to worry about emissions testing, I plan to add a cat. Magnaflow cats are pretty reasonably priced and they seem to have a wide variety of styles - hopefully I can find one to work. The big question is: What should I do for the mufflers/cat-back portion? Cost is a major concern. I'd rather not lose too much power, either - it's still a stock L98. I need something reasonably quiet. I saw in one of the other threads about adapting a stock LT1 system. I don't really know what that setup looks like or how easy it would be to do. Would that kill most of the noise w/o completely choking the engine? I'm open to suggestions. My current system is driving me nuts. Thanks!
Posted on: 2009/8/14 20:31
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: Driveline assembly procedure |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
Trying to move all that as one piece to get the input shaft aligned would be a nightmare. It's bad enough with just the tranny.
Posted on: 2009/6/21 18:25
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
Re: E85 |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
|
The big stuff will obviously be new injectors properly sized to the engine, a new tune and possibly a new O2 sensor.
You'll have to check every o-ring, seal and gasket that comes in contact with fuel to make sure it will survive. One of the CF members did this some time ago - JoBy maybe? I don't recall if the fuel tank had to be changed but pretty much every bit of "rubber" had to be swapped out. I think it also depends on what year the car was made - later years may have had ethanol compatible bits.
Posted on: 2009/6/20 15:14
|
|
|
Transfer
|
|
|
