Upgarded module would get you there.

Dont have the info on coil on plug sure its out there. $$$

THey are in fact 1.75 in long have a message in to Carolina Clutch to pick some up thanks you weenie I owe you a brewski and will give up my parking spot on Andys lawn for a day.

Now to come up with $800 to pay this wanker for a simple synchro and slider.

Im going to tear this spare apart when I get time and learn to rebuild these myself, found a nice source of every upgraded part I could want..and they ar reasonable.

Now if I could only find $450 for a scattershield now would be the time.

Out of stock


Places like that and McCleod bought all GMs bolts up, they quit making them early 09 I found out. M.C. is having someone making them for them but they have been waiting over 6 mos so far and no product.

Gonna be a bit before this is back together the trans guy aint cheap.

On a good note found I had the FW and PP clocked wrong, thought I felt a very slight vibration around 2-2200

Moved it over a notch rebalanced it within 1 gram for a whopping $20 cant complain there. Should be silky smooth now.

Pic was generic got off the phone....they are out of stock too. Wow.

Hmm...heres the McLeod part.

Doesnt even look close. Crap.
Wonder if the round part under the hex head slides off exposing more shoulder?



[IMG]http://www.mcleodracing.com/images_products/5312.jpg[/IMG]


Will call them anyway but dont know which way to go. Reuse these and if they dont stretch when torqued to spec they are still good?


I think they can be a bit longer Ill get measurements tomorrow when I pick my FW up from the balancers shop.
Measure pitch etc also. Gotta be a solution somewhere.


TONS of guys on Fbody boards looking cant believe an exact replacement isnt out there.

McCleod pn 1502

Ill have to call and check into this one.

The GM piece dont know if the Vette is the same a the Fbody LT1 piece
[IMG]http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/ChevyTransmissions/images/10079898[/IMG]

Heres some replacement a guy on a Fbody forum used not sure I want to improvise like this.

[IMG]http://www.fastenal.com/web/showImage.ex?vo=ProductImagesView&voAttr=ImageContent&idColumn=Image_ID&id=111679&cache=1260890609612[/IMG]


ARP
ARP 652-2000
They are longer though
[IMG]http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/arp-652-2000_w.jpg[/IMG]

Thanks!! Hope thats the same as the Fbody bolt

Put some technology in your car and its obsolete lol.

Looking for pressure plate bolts, 6 of them

GM PN 10079898


Discontinued, torque to yield fastener.

THanks

Mobil 1 15 w40 synthetic racing oil, has more zddp than the rotella oils hope that helps.

Agreed...wish I could find 2.75 pipe and bends to make my own system, kind of on the borderline of needing 3 but wanting 2.5 lol

Anyone have a source to buy pipe lengths and bends? Seems like an oddball size.

Better to go larger pipe to smaller rather than the other way around. Think 3" systems are overrated on smallblocks on the street and they will be loud period. Even if it costs you 5 no more than 10 up top youll gain everywhere else where it matters. Mandel bends are a good thing. You have a short exaust system 2.5 should be fine. Sure LT5s like to breathe but bigger isnt always better , there is a cap.

Messing with the rearend is a little over my head. It only has a few miles on it but was done yrs ago by the best guy around whos retired, rearend is perfect. Im afraid Ill screw it. May have to look him up and see if hed give me a hand. Doing it as far as the seal sounds straightforward Im just worried about changing something in the rearend and having noise or another issue. No fear of tearing into t amotor but trannies rearends Ill pay for. Used to anyway

Stain pics?




Magnaflow makes a resonator that flows pretty well I think they also make an LT1 style muffler that is a straight through design yet looks stock. That oughta quiet it up a lot.

Pulling that out in a C4 with no help....my hats off to you man not fun!

Got up at 5 am yesterday worked on it til I went into work last night just got home an hour ago. At least the trans and clutch are out, time for some shut eye.

Good stuff thanks for posting.

KNow of a road outside Castaic lol.

Trans is finally out think the Dshaft is too long and moving things around fine out. hope it didnt affect the motor.

Rear main is leaky, pinion seal leaks rear seal on trans was just starting to leak. Crap.

Quote:

Stick. Im hoping I need a 4 point! Will put a driveshaft loop in it and head up once I get a few hundred miles on it.
Right now about 40, trans is out, pinion seal leaks, rear main leaks, etc. Fun chit. Be a few weeks before its back up again hopefully no issues after this for awhile. Runs good though.

Without a scattershield I wont be going too nuts but should get a ballpark of what it could run.

Dont know if there is a difference between them.

Still trying to get this go@%@#@ trans out.

Mines a 12 bolt straight axle dont know how much different..


Want to do it in the car. Is there a PN for the seal, how much to torque? I know this is pretty crucial for the life of the rearend. Its all new internals so dont want to screw it up.

Mandrel bent 2.5 should be enough, kind of on the borderline. After having dual 3s on a Z Id recommend against it unless you stroked it. Larger case muffler or a turbo type will quiet it some rather than the straight through or chambered type. The non welded ones can swell a bit too where as welded ones dont. Name your poison.
Resonator will help...

Ill stand firm on air/noise. The exhaust I have on my car now was faor;y quiet with my old motor which made roughly 430 chp. The new one is more than likely 120 over that and is unbeliveably loud at anything over idle with the same exhaust.

Anything that flows a bunch of air isnt going to be real quiet especially with a modded motor.

Dont worry I still hate the rest of em .

6" long parts


So your head fits in there?

Imnot sure what year its out of and dont know the history. Supposedly a lower mile one but dont want to go through the trouble of putting it in to find it isnt right.
Some T56 came with a lower torque rating, 97 being the higest and a lower first gear. This one is "just right"

There were so many changes on things in ternally Im not sure if I can scavenge parts to use either. I just dont have enough know how to determine.

Anyway Im gtting the 40 page manual on this thing thanks to my other half Ill look it over. Maybe Ill screw this one up too LOL. And so it starts....again

Thanks Andy...girlfriend found the 40 page repair manual Im going to check it out. If it feels right may just tackle it I dont know...honestly if I had the extra money to burn wouldnt even consider it, easier to pay a pro but things are rough right now.Well see...

Hes got a round of drinks coming from Cali when he makes it out this way. Hes been a huge help here and a good friend also to boot for years.

Wow old thread. My 89 was second to last lol.

On the new ride dont know...should be in the 11s somewhere well see about that one. Sure first couple shakedown runs may be in the 12s somewhere til I learn how to drive it.

Zr1 was in the 13s, crappy 2.2 60 ft street tires. Kevins 85 would almost beat it as he could laumch on DRs pretty good lol.

Two tools I dont have. Maybe at some point Ill look into it Im sure once I start tracking this eventually Ill break something again would be nice to know I can fix it myself, hate being at the mercy of shops. Time to learn something new.

Just lots of little things that I dont know what to look for as far as wear so Id be going in blind at this point unless it was something real obvious like a bad syncro or gear. Far as shaft/bearing clearances I wouldnt have a clue.

Well after talking to a couple shops this aint gonna be cheap. Thinking about getting rid of the extra T56 I have to pay for this hate to though.

Gotta learn how to work on these things looks like.

last time I tried with a Muncie I would up taking a bucket of parts and a case to a shop and said here, you deal with it. lol They hate that!

From talking with a few shops sounds like they dont go often but 2nd gear sounds common. THere have been 7 different updates on the trans/gearset since then

Man if I had a few bucks Id love to order the Z06 gearing set and order a lower 6th gear.

Looks like 3-400 labor if I bring them the trans+ whatever parts are.Oof..Time to start ebaying stuff...lots of it lol.

Guess would be a good time do have the balance on the FW and PP double checked.

WOnder what happens when I start leaning on this thing lol.

Original owner was a middle aged woman who bought the car new. Complained a few times of an issue which turned out to be a FW/clutch defect they gave her a new trans anyway. Had this in 10 yrs ago before I took it apart put a few hunred miles on it with no issues. Havent beat on it yet myself, just layed into the throttle some but not enough to hurt it meaning barely cracking the secondaries a few times.
450 ft lbs rating doubt mine would make that til higher in the range. Few days ago 2nd was getting notchy there for a bit then acted normally??

I have searched high and low on the web and noone seems to know anythign about these no luck with Google.


2 shops wanted me to leave the car with them thats not going to happen, not comfortable with driving it like this.

Hoping someone has experienced this or by hearing the symptom may know...

Ive taken apart manuals before and wound up bringing the case and a bucket of parts in to be put together lol.

Lots of little stuff to know and too much work to have to do it over.

Weird out of nowhere this seems to happen.

Wish I knew someone to take the trans to the few Ive talked to are more interested in the car itself which bothers me...testdrivers. Guess Ive had enough nightmares with shops I just dont trust anyone with it. Worked in a hanful of them when I was younger and if you have a sports car or if it has any power at all I gurantee it WILL be joyridden.

Out of a 97 T/A has about 3000 miles on it Clutch, hydraulics etc are all new
THing has worked flawlessly up til this morning.

2nd would occasionally get notchy upon upshifting.

Then on the way home going into 2nd got an audible groaning noise almost like something binding. Put in the clutch still does it, go to neutral with clutch pedal in still does it let the pedal out all is fine.

Doesnt do it in any other gear.

hasnt been hammered on still breaking the motor in.

If I run it up higher in 1st before going into 2nd doesnt seem to do it.

What the hell is wrong with this f'n thing?
Fluid is fresh and full btw.

LT-1 started in 1970.

11-1, 186 heads (pretty sure) domed forged pistons hi rise dual plane GM intake 780 cfm Holley.

That early C5 Nassau blue is an awesome color!

Go for the Z06 yo wont regret it.


People either love or hate yellow, just like white.

If I had a nickel for everyone that said nice car too bad you painted it the wrong color...yeah fn whatever.

I hate detailing cars so its right lol.

Man if I could ever afford a clapped out C1 it would be done up similar to those, old school racer style. Awesome!

LOL thats one way Ultraman


May have to make the same thing, 1-3/4 primaries with straight plug heads have to fumble with a wrench on almost all of them that socket would be perfect.

man hiring movers is the only way unless youre young.

Hopefully you thought ahead and got a big enough place so me and Central Coaster have prime lawn parking.

Id be pounding my chest like Kunta Kinte, ruler of Zomunda after grunting that beauty out. Thats man stuff right there.

[IMG]http://www.jokespalace.com/wp-content/uploads/big-turd.jpg[/IMG]


Wait you said white hold on....

About the time I turned the key.....
Actually started raining on the fwy no turning back. Was clear and dry all afternoon so figured heck Ill run into work and pick up my check. Not in a big hurry to do it again but wouldnt cry if I did.

Guess I can never sell it as "never driven in the rain" only doused by a garden hose when washed.
Its a big white turd anyway noone wants it

Autozone they work great. If yours uses a MAF relay change that out too at the same time they are cheap. Not sure where yours were located mine used to be either on the firewall by the MS orthe battery cant remember (helps a lot huh)

Just razzin ya waiting for a tow sucks, period.

Heres the tow truck driver calming Kevin down


http://www.youtube.com/results?search ... +the+choo+choo+train&aq=1

-Spends countless years
-Obscene amounts of money
-Does a frame off resto


Then the first time they actually drive farther than the corner take it for a 30 mile run on the fwy at night...in the rain...on drag radials...with no windshield wipers?

Guess what, it didnt melt. I have now lowered all your IQs for reading this.



34 miles and counting.

Ugh, darn C4s never know when they are going to crap out on ya. Hope its an easy fix.

dont think you need all the fancy stuff huge oil pressure is overrated. A good pan is always money well spent imo

Quote:

With a little monkey hiding in the trunk and Trixie riding shotgun