I'd still recommend going the exhaust shop and having flanges welded into place........

Luckily for me you posted lots of pictures...

did you see it through the rubber boot that covers the slave inlet or did you get the tranny out already???

The Fork and pivot ball all have inspection criteria...I'd look at that criteria prior to ordering....

You may have just gotten a bad TO Bearing that came apart prematurely.

I got your PM....I'm glad "We" could all help....I know half as much as CC...and when I am in your shoes...I call him...

So we are all paying it forward

The engineer at Magnaflow chuckled candidly when I asked this question......He said "All cats are high flow, but don't tell anyone"

That one had me scratching my head...not because what he said wasn't plausible, rather, why is he the only one that seems to openly admit this??

^^Zactly............

OP, I just went through this and let me tell you what I found.

There is a good chance that the TO Bearing may not have been put on the fork properly. Yes, it can slip off if it not on just right. It is hard to explain over the web....or even in person...but once you "see" it, you'd understand completely.

As CC said....a couple of pumps by you....and with nothing pushing the Slave cylinder piston back up into the Slave.....it soon reaches the limits....then one more pump and the thing shoots out with fluid flowing.....You were sort of panicked as all this was occuring and you were trying to grab a gear and get off the road or back up and running...and you pumped it.......this explains the fluid.

This whole thing sux ass as it is a big job to get to that TO Bearing or fork.....but I think that is where you'll find your trouble.

The Clutch itself is most likely fine.

The point I am trying to make, that clutch fork is deceiving to the inexperienced amongst us. So much so that the tranny shop I talked to said "Most people do 'X' wrong"........and I did "X" wrong......just like they said I would....Your Mechanic could have made a mistake whereas it held for just a while and then fell off. The pivot ball could have come loose....the fork could have come off the pivot ball.....the TO Bearing could have fallen off the fork.....A whole slew of things are possible. But since you say it happened with a "pop"......it is more likely to be the things I listed rather than the clutch......A clutch failing is a whole lot of other symptoms.

Seriously, I feel for you as I "just" went through this crap...I put it all back together just to have to pull it all apart yet again....and on mine....it takes the better part of a day to get the tranny on the floor. So two days to do it "wrong" then 3 weeks later two more days to redo it correctly.

That being said, I think once your tranny is on the ground and you can see inside the bell housing, your problem will be revealed and you may not have to even take the Bell Housing off the motor....leaving the clutch in place and just addressing your hydraulics or TO Bearing assembly.

Now that there is a real product and not just a pipe dream...I might be interested in discussing it....

I'd like to see actual dyno results prior to having that discussion.....Time is your friend.....Hype is not.....Remember how great "Waterworld" was going to be??

Remember, the grinding didn't take off any structural integrity....and it is much easier to put in.

Running 1 1/4" adapters (or whatever they are called..) on the rear of mine. No problems yet...but I've not had a lot of miles on them as I've had issues with other things

here is the mod pic I promised

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  C-Beam mod 0011.jpg (39.00 KB)

And the auction itself cost....the Tickets are at Barrett-jackson.com

the auction itself is at the OC Fair Grounds here in Costa Mesa

does it cost?

There is a 3amp fuse that is blown ADH or something like that. It doesn't have a name that seems like it should belong to anything....try to replace that one.

Well, we get a second chance to take pics as I messed up the installation somehow....

I'll have to take it all back out again and see where I made my mistake.

I'll take photos this time.......

^^I thought about taking pics....but my issue is that, once I get working, I am hell bent on finishing that task.

The camera gets in the way....

The c-bean sort of has a slope next to the two bolt holes...it gradually slopes out to it's full thickness.

Rather allow that slope to be there....I cut it off parallel to the Holes.....Just passed the second hole, I cut straight inward.....so the inside of the cut is now a right angle.

Once I got the C-beam on the D36.......I just used the rubber hammer to pound it backwards a bit...and then the C-Beam was able to be slid up and mounted onto the tranny. No need to pry the tranny to the side or anything....it was nice for once.

Aight!!

I cut off about 1/2" in width and about 3" in length....

Worked like a charm.

Once I got the rear started..the front slide right in without issue at all.

CC, So today I was trying to get a "Pilot bearing puller"

Yes I know it is called a "pilot bearing puller" but the inside puller that came in the kit was way too big to fit inside the pilot bearing.....I was asking if there was a special tool for our pilot bearing.....I remembered you inspecting the kit when we were at AutoZone.....I went to an AutoZone to see if they had the same kit as the one we had gotten before......but they had the same puller as Kragen.

So I wound up going home and grinding the one that was too large.....it was only $13......BUT it took me an hour of grinding in order to get it to the correct shape to grab that Pilot Bearing.

Anyway, it sucks to not be able to find the right tools. spend all day Sunday trying to get a Pilot bearing out....but that is OK due to me wanting to take all the parts over to OC Transmission and let them inspect.

I know what the prognoses is now.....When I had the T10 rebuilt last summer, I put it back into the Pilot bearing dry...I didn't know that you needed to put some cup grease on the end of the shaft.

it was dry in there and there are some grooves and really really dry lube left over from when CC put the clutch in.

CC you were half way right....it was just dried out in there...but it wasn't the TO bearing, it was the Pilot. And we used a bushing....we should have used a roller bearing for a pilot.

Also....in case anyone is looking, there is an adjustable pivot bolt for your Throw out fork

What?

In other words, while you have the bell housing off, you need to inspect the fork and the pivot point. There is a doodad that you put in place of that stock pivot bolt that allows you to adjust the position of the fork from the outside. So if you feel your pedal is too low, you can adjust it......this would be really nice if you are experiencing a bit of clutch drag...especially going into reverse. You could cure that issue with this doodad...I'll get more info on it Tomorrow.

You just missed when you were putting the pads back in on the clip.

Mine did this as I didn't quite understand how the clip fit through the Caliper on top.

Once I inspected it closer I figured out the clips and put them in properly and that light clunk went away

^^Ahhh...nice tip....

See that is the way I did it with the D36.....everything sort of slowly meshed together prior to anything being tightened down.

The C-beam was slid onto the D36 and then the two pins that held the D36 to the body were put in...then the c-beam bolts were hammered in place...you get the picture.

This time I guess I need to be more fluid with the assembly

I'm still going to grind off that area....LOL

You guys (most of) are missing it. The side where the C-beam has to slide down past the tranny is what I am referring to.

The Floor board for the passengers knee area is so close to the snout of the tranny that it is hard to get it past the tranny/floor board.

Once you get it down from there it comes out......You have to slide the thing backwards and then using a screwdriver pry it to the side and downward to get it past the shelf of the tranny snout. Once you get it on it's way down...it is still real tight.

I want to grind that upper part......next to the holes......not make the I.D. clearance greater. the I.D.s slide around ok.....I have done that one twice already...it's just with the tranny and D36 still in place...it is tight.

Being a lazy person at best, I want to grind off that area and make the installation/removal easier.

CentralCoaster, you stated at one time that you wish you had ground off the front-top of the C-Beam so that it wasn't so tight getting it and out.

Today, since I was pulling mine out, I was thinking about what you said.

The last two times I did mine, it was at the same time as when I was doing the D36, so, it wasn't as hard. But today it was beotch getting it to drop.....now I am wondering about going back with it.

Should I use a cut-off wheel and take off a 16th of an inch??

CC, can that throw out bearing be taken out without removing the bell housing?

I can get the Tranny on the ground in a matter of about two hours.

Ok, so I got the boot off from where the Slave goes...and I can see the shaft you are talking about....Where the TO bearing slides...and yes all that in there is dry and rusty....so Brakeclean all that?? What about a spray lube?? would that get on the clutch plates or flywheel??

If you can see it hopping like a basketball, how old are the shocks?

Understand, we both agree that the noise I am hearing is not typical for a TO bearing squealing upon the pedal being depressed......that is why I do not understand.

The TO bearing is not touching the input shaft of the Tranny in any way.

The noise can go away when the clutch is all the way depressed......and if I slowly let out the clutch....it starts making a grinding noise. but once I get past a certain point the noise stops......

It's almost more like a noise that would be made if dirt and debris were in between the clutch plate and pressure plate.

That would make more sense.....

And the fact that reverse does it all the time.

Could I have burned through that clutch this fast?? Wouldn't the pedal be low?? Could it be metal to metal?

Lemme see if writing it out makes sense

Quote:

make sure your line wrenches are quality....the cheapo ones round off the fittings

THE GYNECOLOGIST WHO BECAME A MECHANIC




(If you do not laugh out loud on this one, your "laugher" is broken!)




A gynecologist had become fed up with malpractice insurance and

HMO paperwork, and was burned out. Hoping to try another career where skillful hands would be beneficial, he decided to become a mechanic. He went to the local technical college, signed up for evening classes, attended diligently, and learned all he could.

When the time of the practical exam approached, the gynecologist prepared carefully for weeks, and completed the exam with tremendous skill. When the results came back, he was surprised to find that he had obtained a score of 150%. Fearing an error, he called the Instructor, saying, "I don't want to appear ungrateful for such an outstanding result, but I wonder if there is an error in the grade?"

"The instructor said, "During the exam, you took the engine apart perfectly, which was worth 50% of the total mark. You put the engine back together again perfectly, which is also worth 50% of the mark." After a pause, the instructor added, "I gave you an extra 50% because you did it all through the muffler, which I've never seen done in my entire career".

Still kinda waitin' on this one....not sure I understand what you are saying CC

^^Say it again....

your first paragraph is what I generally think about when thinking of TO bearing failure.

The rest...paraphrase for me. Not the cleaning part....the reason or cause....

So pull it now?

And let me ask this, Can I get to it without pulling the bell housing?

I can get the tranny out pretty quickly.....last time I "looked" in there but I didn't mess with the Throw out or clutch....CentralCoaster put the clutch in so I am not sure about that part...I'd just like to know ahead of time.....I can always pull the bell housing after....and since the tranny is gone it looks easier to me.

It's pretty bad now......I just don't understand why it is quiet until the clutch starts to engage....

The Clutch is working fine, but when I go to "slowly" let the clutch out...as it (I assume) is making contact it makes the Squealing bearing sound.

I've heard TO Bearings make that sound when you first start pushing the pedal down...but mine never makes the noise when I first push the pedal so this one is throwing me off a bit.

At first, it only did in reverse.....just last Thursday first time. Then it started in First and Reverse....I thought it was going to be the Overdrive taking a dump.....but then I got the noise in 2nd gear...and that, you wouldn't think, but that made me feel better as I knew then it was clutch and not OD....

There are only two bearings involved with that operation.....Throw-Out and Pilot bearings.

Lend a hand with this one if you can.

yup....

CC, Will it pass at a "Test only"??

The one I use has the rollers that go down into the ground.....when rolling onto them...it is almost completely flat.

^^That is good for a ~20 year old car.........

LOL......Poor it down the sink or toilet. That way it goes to the sewage treatment plant prior to directly to the ocean.

Next time, Smart and Final has the water for .79 cents each gallon.

Wal-mart has Ramen for .18 cents a package and Castrol GTX for $13 per five quart jug

Before you go to far with the paint, try the Mop and Glo trick on the plastic parts.

I'm in the club (for now)

Nice and clear....sure there is some rust in it.....you should have seen the clay like crap that came out the first time.

I like to post results rather than conjecture.

So after a year or maybe more.....

Remember, The coolant was ruddy brown thick stuff when it came out.....when I bought the car, the heat didn't even work. ( think it was clogged with sediment)

I am heading to Vegas on Monday so I thought I would swap the coolant out.

over a year later here is what running Deionized water looks like

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  Radiator Water 0022.jpg (55.72 KB)

I've got to get one of those things.....that is great@!!!

I can't get that version to load...

Oh I've watched that Vid over and over again.

The only thing is that it doesn't have the Roval part in it

Price drop!!!

$1995...better run!

Tax Return!!!

Lemme ask you this, When you made that film of the time you ran out there, you didn't run the Roval. I was watching and I noticed that you never really got into 4th.

I know the Roval will get us into fourth and for me O/D. If I cannot find this (now very small) vibration...it'll be hairy heading into turn one.

I'm thinking I could get "things" ready to run at Cal Speedway...

http://www.speedventures.com/events/eventdetail.aspx?id=288

Anyone else in our region interested? It's $190 for a day of track fun.

But tires, Gas and brake pads....ya know....runs the total up.

There's no hating there at all. That is the way I pictured those pumps working from the moment I saw them.

Since I had my D36 out twice in 2009, and both times I chose not to put a drain plug in the housing due to having one of those pumps.

Remember, you can link two small compressors together for a total SCFM. So if your friend has a small one, you can borrow it for a day, or buy a cheap Harbor Freight one and then sell it afterward.