OK, so I've already got my motor out but having a little trouble with the trans. I need to remove the trans cooler lines and the TV cable - both are on the passenger side. I can't properly get into remove the cooler lines. I got a wrench on one but it felt like I was gonna round the nut off, so I stopped and shot it with some pb blaster. On the Tv cable, there is a nut on the top of the trans, I don't even know what size. But looking at the diagram it seems it hooks into some valve body inside the trans. Does it just pull out, or do I need to remove the pan and unhook it?

So...what is the best way to get off the cooler lines? Is a flare wrench or crows foot or something else necessary? If so, what size? And what about the TV cable?

Thanks,

Matthew

Matt,
The tv cable is held in by a 10MM bolt. I use a box wrench.
Once the bolt is out, the link is bent like the letter L, and slips into the cable end. It will easily wiggle out once unbolted.
Flare nut wrench works best for the line, but be sure to hold the brass adapter behind it at the same time. By stetting the wrenches up carefully, you will be able to squeeze them together to crack the line.

Thanks, Pete. Do you happen to know the cooler line sizes? I'm gonna go to the store and buy some more wrenches

1/2 inch for the line
11/16 for the adapter

Thanks Pete. Gotta love these F'n GM engineers. Think they sat back and said "Hmm....we'll make this nut metric, then the one right next to it will be SAE. That'll really mess up guys trying to fix it!"

matthew

I disconnect the TV cable at the TB and remove with trans

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Yep, makes it easier.. and he already has the motor out...

On the cooler lines on trick the trans guys do.. and if you have a "show car" and use mirrors under your car you might not want to do... The trick is to cut the lines with a small pipe cutter, where they are straight at an accessible location near the front of the trans/back of the motor. Then use compression fittings to re-attach the lines later. It works quite well.

-=Rick

BTW once you can access the lines when the trans is out.. make sure to use a line wrench this helps keep you from rounding off the hex at the fitting...

make sure your line wrenches are quality....the cheapo ones round off the fittings

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Good Tip!

Thanks for the replies, guys. I'm gonna try to tackle this today.

Matthew

Little update:

Couldn't get the trans cooler lines off while it was on the car and I wasn't gonna fight it. I just cut them and I'll put compression fittings on it. Once I got the trans off, I saw the flare nuts were boogered up and a bit rounded, that's why I had so much trouble. So I'm glad I cut them. I already bought some new line to bend with new fittings on the end. I also left the TV cable on, much easier.

Dropped it off and the builder, he ordered me a 2400 stall while I was there from a local shop that does good work. I also dropped off my transgo 2+3 kit to go in it. Guy was already starting to dismantle it as I was leaving. He told me I could stick around and watch but I had other things to take care of, unfortunately. Looking forward to getting this done.

Thanks again for the help.

Matthew

The last time around I got tired of working with the stock lines making them fit everything/working around them and swapped them out for braided lines w/an fittings.

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$$$$$$. It would be nice, but compression fittings cost about $8 for two sets.

compression fitting always leak btw, i usually lower the trans enouguh out of the car that i can access the fittings better. but since you cut them you won't have to worry about that. i would double flare the cuts and put unions in there..

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I've been running with one for over a year on the line near the radiator with zero problems. Just my personal experience.

Oh yeah, talked to the trans shop today. Converter is in, trans should be ready Monday.

Sounds good.