The Clutch is working fine, but when I go to "slowly" let the clutch out...as it (I assume) is making contact it makes the Squealing bearing sound.

I've heard TO Bearings make that sound when you first start pushing the pedal down...but mine never makes the noise when I first push the pedal so this one is throwing me off a bit.

At first, it only did in reverse.....just last Thursday first time. Then it started in First and Reverse....I thought it was going to be the Overdrive taking a dump.....but then I got the noise in 2nd gear...and that, you wouldn't think, but that made me feel better as I knew then it was clutch and not OD....

There are only two bearings involved with that operation.....Throw-Out and Pilot bearings.

Lend a hand with this one if you can.

I doubt it's the pilot... but the TO makes sense.

I would do this... drive it until it gets worse. These things can make a lot of noise before they fail.

It's pretty bad now......I just don't understand why it is quiet until the clutch starts to engage....

a seized bearing can mess up a shaft, which can get pretty pricey.

So pull it now?

And let me ask this, Can I get to it without pulling the bell housing?

I can get the tranny out pretty quickly.....last time I "looked" in there but I didn't mess with the Throw out or clutch....CentralCoaster put the clutch in so I am not sure about that part...I'd just like to know ahead of time.....I can always pull the bell housing after....and since the tranny is gone it looks easier to me.

once the transmission is out, the bellhousing is pretty easy.

Usually the throwout bearing only squeals at the top of the clutch pedal travel when it has slight pressure against the rotating pressure plate fingers, and the bearing is a little sticky and doesn't want to turn.

Then as you push the clutch further it gets loaded up and starts to spin.

Also if the bearing is sticking against the trans input shaft collar, it might not back up from the pressure plate and may still rub.

If you can get the car up high enough and pull the clutch fork boot, it may be possible to shoot it with some brake cleaner with a straw. The clutch dust sticks to the grease on it and tends to gums up everything.

^^Say it again....

your first paragraph is what I generally think about when thinking of TO bearing failure.

The rest...paraphrase for me. Not the cleaning part....the reason or cause....

Still kinda waitin' on this one....not sure I understand what you are saying CC

Lemme see if writing it out makes sense

Quote:

I dunno what to say, if that doesn't make sense I'll have a hard time guiding you through it.

Bellhousing showing fork, throwout bearing not installed, but it sits between the prongs of the fork and pushes against the pressure plate fingers when clutch is used.

[IMG]http://i610.photobucket.com/albums/tt181/CentralCoaster/transmissioninstall.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i610.photobucket.com/albums/tt181/CentralCoaster/bellhousing.jpg[/IMG]

Here's the throwout bearing (part of the flange is broken).

[IMG]http://i610.photobucket.com/albums/tt181/CentralCoaster/tobearingbroken.jpg[/IMG]

When the clutch fork moves, the T/O bearing slides back and forth on this collar around the transmission input shaft. None of this stuff rotates. If the shaft is gummed up badly, the throwout bearing won't pull away from the pressure plate completely and can squeal. Hard to get to from the bellhousing hole, but worth a shot before pulling the trans.

[IMG]http://i610.photobucket.com/albums/tt181/CentralCoaster/4speed2.jpg[/IMG]

If the throwout bearing itself is squealing, it's probably toast. The part that touches the pressure plate rotates with it when you push the clutch in. The inner part of the throwout bearing, and that rear flange, doesn't rotate, it is held in place by the fork. If you look at the throwout bearing pic, the black part is the bearing seal, this is between the nonrotating part, and the other part that rotates.

Understand, we both agree that the noise I am hearing is not typical for a TO bearing squealing upon the pedal being depressed......that is why I do not understand.

The TO bearing is not touching the input shaft of the Tranny in any way.

The noise can go away when the clutch is all the way depressed......and if I slowly let out the clutch....it starts making a grinding noise. but once I get past a certain point the noise stops......

It's almost more like a noise that would be made if dirt and debris were in between the clutch plate and pressure plate.

That would make more sense.....

And the fact that reverse does it all the time.

Could I have burned through that clutch this fast?? Wouldn't the pedal be low?? Could it be metal to metal?

Ok, so I got the boot off from where the Slave goes...and I can see the shaft you are talking about....Where the TO bearing slides...and yes all that in there is dry and rusty....so Brakeclean all that?? What about a spray lube?? would that get on the clutch plates or flywheel??

CC, can that throw out bearing be taken out without removing the bell housing?

I can get the Tranny on the ground in a matter of about two hours.

Yes it can. Once the trans is out you just pluck it off the end of the fork. You should also be able to buy the t/o bearing seperately. I'm assuming the clutch is ok as we just put it in, but honestly, if it's making those noises, I'd want to pull the bell and pressure plate to check it and be sure. You never know with these banana boat auto parts these days.

Is the warranty up on that thing? Some of them are lifetime. Do you have the receipt still? You can take the entire clutch set in if all you need is a t/o bearing. I think we got it at Autozone, or maybe that was just the pressure plate.

CC, So today I was trying to get a "Pilot bearing puller"

Yes I know it is called a "pilot bearing puller" but the inside puller that came in the kit was way too big to fit inside the pilot bearing.....I was asking if there was a special tool for our pilot bearing.....I remembered you inspecting the kit when we were at AutoZone.....I went to an AutoZone to see if they had the same kit as the one we had gotten before......but they had the same puller as Kragen.

So I wound up going home and grinding the one that was too large.....it was only $13......BUT it took me an hour of grinding in order to get it to the correct shape to grab that Pilot Bearing.

Anyway, it sucks to not be able to find the right tools. spend all day Sunday trying to get a Pilot bearing out....but that is OK due to me wanting to take all the parts over to OC Transmission and let them inspect.

I know what the prognoses is now.....When I had the T10 rebuilt last summer, I put it back into the Pilot bearing dry...I didn't know that you needed to put some cup grease on the end of the shaft.

it was dry in there and there are some grooves and really really dry lube left over from when CC put the clutch in.

CC you were half way right....it was just dried out in there...but it wasn't the TO bearing, it was the Pilot. And we used a bushing....we should have used a roller bearing for a pilot.

Also....in case anyone is looking, there is an adjustable pivot bolt for your Throw out fork

What?

In other words, while you have the bell housing off, you need to inspect the fork and the pivot point. There is a doodad that you put in place of that stock pivot bolt that allows you to adjust the position of the fork from the outside. So if you feel your pedal is too low, you can adjust it......this would be really nice if you are experiencing a bit of clutch drag...especially going into reverse. You could cure that issue with this doodad...I'll get more info on it Tomorrow.

As far as the tool, I don't know anything special on that, it was just a pilot bearing puller, about 3/4" in diameter that fit inside the pilot and uses a slide hammer. Sorry, I was gettin' some when you called so I didn't pick up the phone.

I know the ZF clutch pivot is adjustable, but have never heard of that on the 4+3.

Some will say a hydraulic clutch can't be adjusted, but simply changing the fork angle does actually effect the engagement point you feel on the pedal.