Any opinions/thoughts on the Classic Tube products? Looks like they carry a replacement fuel line from rail to filter for a 89 L98. Thanks

Joel

WOW! That was a good price! I won't admit what I paid.

Joel

Yea, I saw that also! Does that mean that all those folks with the braided lines now have to replace theirs often? If that's the case, I'll just buy from Classictube. Just didn't want to spend almost 200.00 for lines.

Thanks
Joel

I have read where a lot of you guys here have replaced original rubber lines with braided line. Did you replace from the fuel rail back to the filter with this or just replace the flexibe rubber section? I've got to educate myself on these fittings that you guys use, but I'm sure I'll find that info. I'm sure these lines on my 89 are original so it's time.
Any pictures or details would be appreciated.Thanks

Joel

I would be going without food and sleep to fire that engine as close as it is! Good luck, and not trying to "arm chair your build" but please add coolant into that engine before it runs.

Joel

I use a Actron CP9145 also. I bought this one about a year ago and have been satisfied with it so far. I have used Actron scanners for years with NO complaints. I also bought the adaptor cable to use with OBDI. But there are much better scanners on the market, for much more money! This one does just fine for my needs. It is a good value for a good tool IMO.

Joel

Good morning! You guys hit the floor running today. Can't offer any advice on these new bikes, been awhile since I two-wheeled. Sure do miss it. Guess I'll break down and go get a hair cut, real exciting. Have a good day.

Joel

Good morning. Not much for me today. Have a good one!

Joel

I've had good luck using a section of coat hanger to get thru the firewall "boot". Try to slip the new rubber line over the coat hanger, a little tape might be needed to hold it. Lube it up good and fish it thru. Good luck.

Joel

Good morning! Not much for me today. Thinking about washing my Firebird, there's a big F-body show at Summit on Sat. Would like to go but I'm sure something will come up. Always does. Have a good day


Joel

Good Morning! Well I think my roof leak was just a small nail that had worked loose. Replaced a few shingles, should be good. Same as usual otherwise, need to cut some grass, need a road trip soon. Have a good day.

Joel

I agree with BillH. SEM products cost a little more, but the quality is well worth it.

Joel

Good morning. I need to get to the pool store also, seems like it always costs me 100 bucks when I go! Found a small roof leak last night, that will be my first project. Have a good one.

Joel

Adding some to post#2. Might want to check with a paint supply store and add some flex-agent. At least on the bumpers. Otherwise you will get the spider-web cracking shortly after.

Joel

I have not used it yet, but have read several good reviews on it. Myself I do like painting with laquer, dries fast and easy to repair those "oh no" moments. Good price also.

Joel

Good Morning/Afternoon! I know the feeling of having doctors bounce ya all over town. It's like they have a club, and they want some of that insurance money. But it's nice to have them around when you need them. Have a good day.

Joel

That does sound like a very labor intensive project! But looks like you have a very qualified helper. All my "helpers" bt now are dead or in jail. The removal of the VATs system was very interesting, sure would be helpfull if you could have a detailed write-up with pictures of this.

Good Luck,
Joel

It is a little late, but congrats Chris. I noticed the change last week, kept forgetting to post.

Joel

I thought NAPA had these.

Joel

Yea CC, I would have thought FSM would have had it also. I'm not going to check at the ECM, I was planning on checking at the relay. Just a lot easier to get to. Should be same. I just didn't want to see a puff of white under the IP. I'll try this in a few days. Thanks,and problem is
intermittent but frequent.
Hey Blade, thanks but that info really doesn't apply to what I'm trying to check.

Joel

This is my ongoing battle with a code 36-MAF Burn-off-. Been screwing with this for a long time now,but I will win. I have the FSM and have followed the procedure exactly several times. I always get to the last box,which is faulty ECM or connections.
I have looked at all connections at MAF and relays at least a dozen times, they all look good. Changed both relays several times. In other words I have done all of the usuall checking and re-checking.
Now, it seems to me that the test procedure outlined in the FSM does in fact verify all circuits and relay function under the hood. But it does not verify that the ECM does in fact ground the circuit 900. And this is how voltage is applied to the burn-off relay, then to the MAF. I want to check this by inserting a back-probe "needle" in this circuit 900 on the burn-off relay. I will have a continuity checker or a DVM set up with one end already connected to a good chassis ground. I'll have a helper in the car, and when ignition is turned off I'll instantly touch the "probe". If infact my ECM does what it should this circuit should then be grounded for 10-15 seconds for the burn-off cycle. Anybody see a problem with having this external monitor to check for ground? It should show a ground? ANY thoughts on this would be welcome, good or bad. Thanks for reading this long dry post.

1989 L98

Joel

Good morning! Not much for me today. Need to cut the grass. Much cooler and cloudy, still looking for some rain.

Joel

Good Luck! Hard to concentrate talking to a naked woman!

Joel

Yea, those are some sweet cars. Still love those 59&60 Impala fins! Can you imagine using a 55 Nomad as a push car? I'd like to push it right into my driveway and just look at it.

Joel

Good afternoon. Looks like we will not be getting any of that "liquid gold" rain from the storm coming up from Fla. Sure could use some rain here in Atlanta. Had plans, just got informed this might be a shop for granddaughter furniture day! But I can do that, and enjoy it.
Have a good day.
Joel

Good morning! Have not posted much lately, a little lazy. Good weather so far around me, but it is coming. Hey Matatk, I was going to ask you how close are you to Gurnee? My daughter lives there and it sure is a nice area. I visit a couple times a year and really enjoy it. Have a good day!

Joel

Yea I know this is a old thread, but I said I would check back with any progress on my Code 36 saga. Like I said earlier I did replace both relays with GM parts. After finally driving the car some the trouble code is BACK. So, guess I'll go thru the procedure one more time. Hope yours is fixed by now. Sorry it took so long to get back with you.

Joel

Yes! with that amount of money spent show the world what's under that plastic hood. I'm old school, still remember how seeing those "427" badges would strike fear in your heart!

Joel

Hello Andrew. First thing is do not let the term "hot & "cold" plug confuse you. This is only a guide for what temp the plug is under normal operating conditions. A "hot" plug will retain more heat in the porcelan between firing cycles, a "cold" plug will cool down slightly. It has nothing to do with the amount of voltage passing over the tip. A "hot" plug will have an extended tip and porcelan, where a "cold" plug will a much shorter tip. Also a wide gap versus small gap will not increase voltage. Gap only determines how long the spark is present. I agree with Mekanic on a smaller gap. A lot of cylinder pressure will sometimes "blow" a wide gap spark from the ground. Hope I did not come off as trying to sound like a expert on this, I've just spent a fair amount of time and money on plugs over the years experimenting, and time reading! Hope this helps.

Joel

Yea on that, I have visited him in person a few months ago and was very impressed. I would not even consider buying from anyone else!

Joel

That is good news for you! Just find out a little more info on those "tricks". Good luck.

Joel

Quote:


Could not have said it better! They do look good.

Joel

Enjoy the trip and be safe!

Joel

Quote:

Thanks for the info on this forum. Got several replies, you were right, no big fans if the adjustable type.

Joel

OK, thanks for the replies. I was thinking the same thing as CC. But I'm far from a AC expert. I'll peep around on the AC forum. Don't think I'll spend that much money for this type of orifice, the 3$ AC Delco works just fine. Anymore thoughts would be welcome!

Thanks,
Joel

Hey guys, got a AC question. I'm getting ready to convert my 89 over to 134 freon. I've had a article from a Corvette magazine for about a year now, saving it mostly for the part #s. I finally took the time to read the article again today. I noticed they used a Napa orifice tube that was described as "adjustable flow for maximum cooling". The part # is 207325, sells for about 30$. I have never heard of these before, anyone with any experience with this?

Thanks,
Joel

That drive makes all those sore knuckles worth it! I do enjoy the drive to Gatlinburg from my area. I always go into Pidgeon Forge also. Glad you had a good trip. Nice car also!

Joel

I almost forgot the question! Hey Dale, I agree also this does sound a lot like a coil. But, I have had heat related module problems too. I would change the coil if you suspect it is original. If you pull the cap for this, mark the plug wires first. Couldn't resist that, sorry.

Joel

I'm late on this, but congratulations! Beautiful name for a beautiful girl. Hope all is good.

Joel

Good job! Didn't doubt you couldn't do it. It just gets a little confusing until you do it a couple of times. That's good advice on checking all the lines just be sure all is connected.

Joel

OK, if all else fails. Yes you can just keep moving #1 around the cap followed by the rest. It can only be 8 different locations. The only thing that will happen be be a "spit" back or possible back-fire. I agree, the other way will be to start at square one and set dist to #1 comp and then set timing. Myself I would just keep trying to move plug wires first. One question, did you replace the coil? And are you sure all wires are hooked uo to dist cap and locked in? And I am sure about the rotor. Look at your old one and you'll see what I mean. Look at the bottom.

Joel

Rotor goes on one way, It's indexed to prevent 180 degrees off. Assuming your dist is set in the traditional location, the normal location for #1 plug is the first hole to the left of the "harness" block. #1 is on the left, #2 is on the right.

Joel

Did you remove all of the old plug wires at the same time, or replace one at a time? It is EXTREMELY easy to cross plug wires. Pull the cap off and check the rotor, be sure the tip is still OK. I understand what you're saying about the orientation of the dist cap and #1 plug wire location. This sounds correct. And you did go 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.
Be sure the coil wires inside the cap did "lock" in. I have seen these push up when the harness was plugged in.

Joel

Actually, for me it's #2 and #8 being the most difficult. Just takes different combinations of flex and ext., etc. I use the "snug" setting myself.

Joel

Do the passenger side first, before your back, arms , and fingers get wore out.

Joel

OK, first I assume you have the FSM as per post #9. I removed the fender, and the battery for a better working area. I know someone will jump on this, but it makes all the difference in the world to be able to reach those relays without excessive bending and twisting those 20 year old wires! I just used a set of jumper cables to feed power back to the car when I needed to. Second, the burn-off relay is the inboard relay, having 4 wires. One large orange, one smaller orange, one small black,one dk blue. The only " back-probe" is in step #3, "ground burn-off relay ckt 900." This is the small black wire on the relay. I used a paper clip that I sharpened the tip with a disc sander. A good straight pin might work also. Also in step #3: probe terminal "D" of MAF sensor harness, on my MAF the terminals are lettered A thru D. So you will just have to look at the harness end as they attach to MAF for correct terminal.Mine checked out thru the entire test. But notice the last paragraph on page 6E3-A-45, refers to possible high resistance in relay. I'm going to replace both relays with AC Delco and drive it. One more thing you might want to read, page 6E3-C1-2 talks about when a code #36 is set. Good luck now that I've got you totally confused.

Joel

Any static in the radio? Sounds like a diode failed.

Joel

Hey Dan, just curious did you find any problems yet with your code #36? I finally dedicated some time today to go thru the test procedure on mine. All was good, so still no closer. But before I type in a long dry paragraph on some suggestions and tips thought I would check in.

Joel

Can you hear the fuel pump prime for 2-3 seconds when you turn key on? If so, VATS is not the problem. Turn radio off and listen very carefully.

Joel


Hold on, I'm thinking of the injector pulse not pump. I'll have to recheck on pump not running. Sorry

Joel

I'm sure I saw a diagram of the plug wire route in my FSM for a 89. Should be the same? I bought the retainers from my local GM parts counter. Here is the only part# I have, it's for the 4 wire close to the distributor. Don't have part# for the 3 or 2 wire.

#12043550

Joel