I would seriously test the IAC /and clean it.
http://shbox.com/1/iac2.jpg

This a good thread. Thanks

What would be a good system or type extinguisher for your C4?

Tom has the parts, 200 for both housings shipped to Hawaii. I already had the pins from Chris May.
I replaced them all, then did front suspension etc. TIGHT. Amazing the difference in the steering column when not wiggling around etc

I did my 93 using this. Not too bad. I replaced the housing and the pins. I called Tom Reina in S Carolina. This is all he does for a livng and had the housing and support GM doesnt carry anymore. The pins were worn, but they are a harder material than the housing, go figure, so it was worn too, which entails the support within the housing,. Tom Reina (864 287 9990)
http://domesticmisfits.net/forums/vie ... rvette+steering+clumn+fix

1996 for me, and its easier to say it needs seats, and carpet as it has everything else replaced at least once, twice, three times.....

It shouldnt be more than a couple burgers, If you are bored, and take paypal, let me know. PM when/if you want to send it, and I will giv eyou my address.

I saw the wreck live, and Gilles Villenueve. It was sad to say to the least. I still have the video clip of Arytons wreck. Its almost like Dale Earnhardsts, just didnt seem bad after watching. But video wasnt all that back then,

Central Coaster, I believe, had a write up about it. Its the way they go in, with aluminum washers.
I put the bushings in the freezer, and the Control arms in a warm area. Slid right in with grease.
http://www.corvettefever.com/techarti ... ension_install/index.html

So how are the rear end trailing arms etc working out for ya?
I just ordered the trailing arm kit as the binding/squeaking noise of the poly bushings are annoying.

Thanks Joe. I am going to do some scans soon, to see how she is running.

I have been doing light tuning for a while, messing with little settings etc. Now I stumble on this little function of Deceleration fuel cutoff. The impala guys have some data on it, but I noticed that the settings arent ever touched by tuners (three different tuners I looked at were identical for my engine). The Impala guys have been and even getting better fuel economy etc due to resetting parameters to allow fuel to be cut off during deceleration.
Has anyone ever played with this feature.
Here is a Impala guy discussing it. But, all ecms are a little different, so I thought I would bring it here.
http://www.monodax.com/forums/tunerca ... impala-f-body-ee-eeb.html

I just checked my bearings on the rear, for example and they are ready to be replaced. The front more than likely also due to 100000 miles since last change. They were AC Delco up front, and BAE? for the rears. I have to say, its amazing the bearings cant be taken apart, as someone out there has to have a tool to do it. Someone.
I have a machinist here that would love to attack one of these. Anyone have an old one willing to ship to Hawaii?

It works, but I dont like the fact I am getting lower gas mileage. Now I know what to mess with when a person wants to see very good gas mileage
But, this is just a calculation as gasoline has different weights due to alcohol content and its supposed to be measured at SAE standard of 72 or 75 degrees F

I got it. Now I looked up the constants and it showed, after initial install, Display injector flow in gals/hr.
It shows 4.09 right now and I have 30# injectors which is what the constant in Injector Flow rate states.
What should I make the Display injector flow rate in gals/hr? 4.09 seems a little weird.
I think its supposed to be injector constant divided by fuel weight, which is about 6.25 pounds per gallon.
So, 30.1 (my injector constant)/ 6.25 = 4.816
Thanks for the help. Steve

I have this video on VHS.

Do you know the new files version? I have version AK

The LT1's use a little filter as they needed clearance due to the fat catalytic converter. With LT's, am able to use the old style filter adapter and use the 91 and older sized filters.

I use a "PH5" size, which still cross references with NAP Gold/WIX. I have Long Tubes and it is right at the headers.
There are cross references available online.
On my LT1 I went to the older style filter with the long tubes for extra filtration, and got rid of that little offset adapter from the factory.

Well anyways, here are the new stiffer OEM bushings.
The poly bushings are offset to pull the bar forward. Wonder why?
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF0074-1.jpg[/IMG]

I AM SO STUPID
Well guess what, GMS Quality assurance isnt all that either.
The bushing is 30mm. I squeezed it real hard and it is 30mm. There is a piece of rubber where they cut the bushing to allow you to put around the bar, and when they cut it was causing it to not compress correctly.
I feel like an Opti SPark

I purchased my sway bars many years ago from Jeff Kopp, and I have the 32 S 26 S set up. But no where on the chart for suspensions is there a 32S sway.
Just curious, as I have measured it and it is a little over 1.25 inches, which is 32mm.
I lost all paperwork and logs years ago (2001) when I moved, so I am curious how I got this bar from Jeff.

So, as long as the rear camber bars aren't pointing up towards the knuckles I am good, in the rear?
I just checked the rear camber rods. They are dead on level. So when I get in they probably start pointing up. So, should I raise it up a little.

Spectator, I have QA1's now. Maybe I will call Gary. I have some Old Bilsteins too, and will call Bilstein to get an idea.
Thanks everyone.

I am not here much, as my internet is pretty blocked at work. But I know Andy, had dinner with ya in Hawaii.

Thanks

Not really. I put a zip tie on the front shock, and it barely had any room left, when the shocks were on mid range, after driving it around.
But, teh pucker factor is high over some speed bumps, as I take them at an angle anyways.

[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF1631.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF1632.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF1633.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF1634.jpg[/IMG]
Before and after lower even more
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/Together-1.jpg[/IMG]

I think I am going to raise mine up to 26 inches front and 26.5 rear. Right now I am at 25.5 front 26 rear. Factory was about 2 inches higher than mine is right now. Hawaii roads arent forgiving. Its manageable with the ZO7 springs and HAL/QA1 shocks, but the pucker factor is tight once in a while. Also, does too low affect handling,even with a good alignment?

Ona side note for the dirty oil etc. Mine, my 396 LT1 from More Performance, had dirty oil within a few miles of running it. I used AMSOIL, Mobil1, Rotella and all the same, with AMSOIL and WIX filters. COme to find out, the pressure was over 60 psi till warm, which caused the oil to bypass the filter (GM's answer to oiling regardless). I believe factory bypass valves are 50-60psi? The white Z28 spring many use is 70 psi. Well mine was around 80psi till 180-200 degrees.
So, I changed the spring (lowered my mellings pump down to about 50 psi cold, Hawaii cold 80 degrees) and I blocked the bypass. I have now gone 400 miles and oil, Shell Rotella Diesel still clean.
I also changed rings to standard tension. I am not sure how much this affected the dirty oil, but my clearances were .018 on rings. w/SRP pistons.
Also, on lifters, I was told HR factory GM is fine till 6500. This was LPE and several others. Granted your lift is pretty high, but it is a reputable company, LPE.

Interesting about cost/warranty and madatory re-rod. I also heard that TPIS used to sell revalved Bilsteins, and they were painted Black and sold as "TPIS" shocks.
I will give them a ring.
I dont know why a mandatory re-rod is necessary. Thats seems kinda overkill, unless you need them.
How hard is it to revalve tehm yourself?

Or can Bilstein revalve tehm to whatever you want, as I want some revalved/rebuilt for autocross?
1993 Shocks, OEM FE1 standard base shocks, to be revalved for ZO7 springs etc for autocross.

The more and more I read on C4's, I am thinking leave well enough alone, as there are just too many suspensions quirks.

I wish I could afford this stuff. I would like to make them myself, can you help a poor fella out with dimensions, material type etc etc

Well, they sent me an email for the tranny pan, 53 dollars plus shipping. But, it may be more, but when it comes to discontinued parts, there are some we would rather have new then used, especially electronics.

I will find out soon, as I just emailed them for a price. Vette 2 Vette want 35 bucks for the dust shield, plus shipping. Corvette Central wants 48 I believe.
So, we shall see.

Needed a transmission dust cover pan for the converter, they had em.
http://www.vpartsinc.com/index.php

Okay, will change it this weekend, then go from there. I use WIX filters now, which are pretty good, IMHO.

I have regular dino in there now, Shell Rotella. How many miles of driving should I go before intial change of oil and filter?

Well, Knock on Wood, she is back on the road. So far no leaks or issues. I have about 30 miles on her. Now I need to get her aligned after having the suspension done before this engine tear down occurred.
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF0007-1.jpg[/IMG]

14 days is the most, in 20 years

I pm'd you.
Here is a pic of mine. I am not sure if they are the same, as mine is a vented Opti.
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF0006.jpg[/IMG]

I thought I would share this as it is interesting. We tried to locate this part through a military site and couldnt even find it. Interesting. I emailed Mitsubishi about it too. Maybe it is available.
I am searching for a good used one.

Basically it turned out to be the Optical sensor. I know because I use a DELTEQ and the rotor isnt in there. I brought it to work, and it was one pin within the circuit board that wasnt attached.
Obviously allot of corrosion. Regardless it worked, but one pn in the second picture, pin 4, was not even attached. Thats why no spark, as no signal made it to the DELTEQ.
Also, It was sealed with The right stuff, but I dont know how old or long it ran as I bought it used.

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It seems like there is always something that needs to be done. I think the most important thing that my car needs done is driving it. I have accepted its condition etc, and once i get her back together, again, I will drive it!

LPE got a Firebird to 193mph years ago with 440 chp. Then again, it was LPE.

I wonder what a company like Ferraris shocks would do?

I think 800 chp with proper gearing would get you there.

Was there any data ever done on this camber brace? I havent read the hole thread. Sorry

What does it cost to get shocks dyno'd?