Guy goes home from work and finds suitcases packed by the front door............

"honey, I'm home" he says.

Well, I'm leaving you " comes the answer from the kitchen.

"Darling, why are you leaving me? " he asks.

"Because the neighbours told me that you are a dirty pervert, thats why" !!

"Oh dear " says he, " such harsh words from an 8 year old ".

There is a video that may assist you with your deliberations..........


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ET0tTZgS1tc

(NOT WORK SAFE)

Thailand has many helpful assistants........for example...........

[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o132/Hensen666/Thailand2010370.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]


[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o132/Hensen666/Thailand2010320.jpg[/IMG]



[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o132/Hensen666/Thailand2010163.jpg[/IMG]

Last week was in North Thailand / Laos border. There under a tree was a 1966 Tempest.......... and a photo of my assistant.........


[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o132/Hensen666/Thailand2010348.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o132/Hensen666/Thailand2010071.jpg[/IMG]

Got another C3 - a 1980.


Recently when warmed up, the trans is not shifting up until the engine has about 3000 revs.

Thought it might be the vacuum modulator, but I have sucked on the pipe at the carb end and its not leaking........ anything else cause this ??

Many thanks - will do the work pretty soon.

Where do I find the info on how to install a switch and hotwire the system to manually use the converter lock up on my 1981 Vette.
CCC has been removed. Thanks.

How do you do it...3.8 V6. They seem impossible to reach! Is there a hole behind the glovebox or some other trick ??

Any ideas please.

Why would the increased voltage make the gearbox change up and down all the time ??

Alternator recently new...........

1989 C4. This just started on a trip home. While cruising along under light load, the gearbox started hunting between 3rd and top , and at the same time the voltage warning red light came on and read between 16 and 17.3 volts. As the voltage danced the gearbox hunted. Had to drive about 100 miles to get home. At the same time my dash was also going bright and dull. Checked rotary dimmer - not doing anything, then about 20 miles from home, I lost all my sidelights, front and rear.

Whats going on ??????????

Many thanks.

Drove home about 180 miles, with the hotwired AC fan going and the heater on full, doing about 50 - 60 mph, just to put as little heat as possible into the engine. On the open road, will good cool air going through the rad, plus the above help, the guage was still showing 220 - 250 degrees.

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So, go for a spin - about 400 miles, driving gently enough to average 24mpg.
Gauge shows 190 for a few miles, then 230, then as I slow down in a town, 250, than a little later 295!!!!!!!!! Red light comes on. No fans have cut in, so I stop and hotwire the AC helper fan, this gets me home OK.

Ordered 2 new relays, engine temp sender and coolant switch thats located just at the front below the thermostat housing. Just fitted all 4 items.
Have not run the car yet - its a bit too late at night here, but with the engine totally cold - 74 degrees, the dash gauge is showing 174 !!

What is going on ????????

Problem sorted. Turned out to be a fuse that was not blown, but did have a sort of "clear " rusting on one side. Fooled me because I used a tester in place, rather than pulling each fuse and looking at it with binoculars

Problem sorted. Turned out to be a fuse that was not blown, but did have a sort of "clear " rusting on one side. Fooled me because I used a tester in place, rather than pulling each fuse and looking at it with binoculars

The engine was running when I noticed that the digital section of the dash was not lit up - speedo, gas level etc. So, I started pulling fuses, looking for a blown one. During this messing around, I switched off the engine, and a few seconds later tried to start it again - nothing at all, no cranking, just dash lights.

Has the VATS system decided to play silly buggers ??
Metered my key 681 ohms. Cleaned the key, but no luck. disconnected battery for 20 mins and hooked it up again, still no luck.

Any ideas anybody

Its working again - well, for a while anyway. Got noid lights, and the spare ECM. Tested for pulses, and the noid light flashed OK. So, with engine running, gave the first injector a gentle tap in the side, yes, that cylinder cut in, So, I tapped the other two, no luck. Decided to take it all apart and swop injectors around. Got it mostly apart, then, as it was gonna get dark, decided to put it all back together, and do it tomorrow. Guess what, they were all working, drove it a little, all OK !!!

The engine was running when I noticed that the digital section of the dash was not lit up - speedo, gas level etc. So, I started pulling fuses, looking for a blown one. During this messing around, I switched off the engine, and a few seconds later tried to start it again - nothing at all, no cranking, just dash lights.

Has the VATS system decided to play silly buggers ??
Metered my key 681 ohms. Cleaned the key, but no luck. disconnected battery for 20 mins and hooked it up again, still no luck.

Any ideas anybody ???

Problem seems to have changed. Spent some time this evening checking out whats working. No longer the roadside panic situation.

Now discovered that its misfiring on the 3rd cylinder on the left bank and the 3rd and 4th on the right bank.....so have 5 out of 8 working !!

Checked plugs and spark etc - all OK.

Cannot think that 3 injectors all decided to die at the same time.

Injector caps giving 12 volts with ignition on, engine not running.
Any thoughts, please.

Quote:

Here is where I live........welcome to West Wales.

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgur ... um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN

Tested, all 16ohms.

I used the nautical terms because there can be no arguement, talk about offside, etc , when you live on another continent that drives on the other side of the road, and you are tempting fate.........

Think you hit the nail on the head, and I gotta say, I am kinda choosey and having lived cars for over 50 years, know a good un from a bad un.

Took a long time for me to find exactly the right 1971 Mach 1. And I put this C4 TR up against the best of them.
We have new Astons etc around here, and the owners drive by and look at this red beast and think it cost half a million......if only they knew the truth.

The downside is, forget it if you are shy, everyone wants pictures, and to sit in it, etc. You CANNOT have an evening out without being stared at.......no chance of a secret date.

Truthfully, I have only had it up to 73mph, once, I prefer 30mph and seeing peoples faces. WOW, what a kick.

Buying a ECM from a man in Michigan who has one out of the car his young daughter took for a "spin" after it was rebuilt........
Hope that cures all the problems.

Quote:

Possibly for the same reason that women have boob jobs and facelifts, and men always clain to be related to donkeys.

Two things come to mind for me;

1. The Ferrari owner probably doesn't care for it.
"Buy a Ferrari if you want one"

2. Corvette owners will say, "If you want a Ferrari, buy one"

I don't see the relevence of doing something like that.
Why try to make one thing into something it isn't?

Just my opinion.

Well,for me the only good thing about a Testarossa is its looks, apart from that they are crap,no power steering, and not very safe with the engine behind you. The C4 is safer and better appointed and gets 4 times the gas milage, and needs less repairs, etc.

How do I know all this ?? We have a real one as well.

[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o132/Hensen666/Wallstreet9-11-2007scaffoildinga-2.jpg[/IMG]

Its this wide........
......


[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o132/Hensen666/FerrariMarch2008Latest002.jpg[/IMG]

Took a while to work out all the paperwork, but it goes something like this.
Its a 1989 C4, that was unused and then shipped to Italy, in 1992. The " Brilliante" car Company carried out the work with many correct / original Testarossa parts, including wheels, lights, etc. Having checked out the workmanship, it musta cost a ********* fortune to do. So, then sent to Japan, where it stayed till I bought it in December 07. Got it shipped to the UK, and the total bill for purchese and taxes, etc is $20 grand. It gets so much attention I will not sell it for even $100 grand, - - - I LOVE it. My garage will have 4 cars, this, 1971 Mach 1, 1985 BMW M5 and 1934 Wolseley........

[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o132/Hensen666/America31andWolseley048.jpg[/IMG]

Only seen one other - recently sold in Vegas for $30 grand. In black with poor photos etc. Not good, but sold immediately.

PS, milage is still only 13,700 from new.

Oh yes - its correct TR width - very wide indeed.

[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o132/Hensen666/FerrariMarch2008003.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o132/Hensen666/FerrariMarch2008017.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o132/Hensen666/FerrariMarch2008011.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o132/Hensen666/FerrariMarch2008008-1.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o132/Hensen666/FerrariMarch2008006.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o132/Hensen666/FerrariMarch2008010.jpg[/IMG]

Latest update.

Took the pump out and its fine - healthy 40psi. Next stop, injectors, All OK at 16 ohms. All fuses in o/s panel OK. Next stop was to test for an injector signal, so put a meter on the starboard rear injector top and got a friend to crank it over - damn me it started !!!!!! So, put injector top back on, but revs did not pick up because its only firing on the port bank. Now the only thing thats been done since the problem started is the connecting of jump leads to top up the battery as it was nearly flat from all the cranking.

So, drove it home 9 miles on the 4 port cylinders. Not very fast, but got home anyway. So, did another test, pulled the 2 fuses that control the injectors. The lower one caused a dead stop, the upper one caused a gradual stop, maybe 3 seconds, each test at idle.
So, as it must be the control of the starboard bank of injectors, I am starting to think ECM.........is the anything else it could be ??

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Lent car to a friend. Car is low milage - 30k. Driving fine for 40 miles, then starts to miss. Over 10 mins missing gets worse. Then stops totally. Cut a long story short, we got spark. Spray " easy start" into intake and it fires up immediately and then dies as soon as the easy start runs out.
Cracked open the petrol / gas
pipe joint close to the front of the engine and the pressure seems good. Checked the fuses that I can see behind the cover on pass side. Seem ok. Car has had little use over the last 3 months but up till now always started up fine and drove fine.
So, any clues ?? Any thing hidden, that I should know about. A fuse somewhere/ a relay somewhere thats famous for giving trouble ??
How do I test an injector with limited tools to see if they are firing, but no gas.
Is it likely to be something not allowing the injectors to work, or a blockage in the rail area? Seems to be a clue that it took 10 mins to gradually die..........maybe like a blockage getting worse....or is it a case of an electrical problem getting worse.
Please remember I live in west Wales, no napa, no chevy dealers, etc. Just the advice of uneducated sheep.