LD85 I gave up on finding anyone who messed with this system. I have figured some of it out. I cut the top sheet metal apx 2" down between hood hinges,just the top straight bar. I haven't touched the v bar below it yet that has the wire you talked about. I also notched the radiator cover 1 1/2" on bottom in center, so AO air cleaner lid will sit flush. I also cut licence plate hole open to bumper reinforcement but haven't cut reinforcement hole yet. I was hoping not to have to cut the v bar but after getting cleaner lid to sit flush I see I'm going to have to completely cut sheet metal out between hood hinges. I was told by Tabor corvette parts that they tore a corvette apart for parts with a AO eng. ram air kit on it. It had a lot of cracks around the 5" hole in plastic bumper reinforcement. Have you had any probem in that area? They put metal around the 5" hole and fiberglassed around it in a later car they put the AO eng. ram air kit in. thanks Tim

The forced air induction setup uses a 5 inch hose from behind the air duct in licence plate to air cleaner lid.So you need that sized hole cut in bumper reinforcement. It has a new air cleaner lid that angles down lower behind bumper reinforcement. because of the way it's angled you have to cut a lot of the sheetmetal between hood hinges to get it to fall in behind bumper reinforcement. It's scary cutting perfectly good sheetmetal, knowing if you don't get it right the first time you won't be able to put it back again.I think I have it figured out . Tring to leave as much metal there as possible and have it look clean when done. Thanks Tim

there's a picture at. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/album ... lbumid=414&pictureid=6415 thanks Tim

Hi bought a used a o engineering forced air induction system[fresh air system].anyone done this before? I need advice on where and how you cut to put it in.Where did you cut Under the hood bracing and between the hood hinges? Did you cut the whole metal area between hood hinges out? Did you cut right next to hinge? Did you completely remove the v shaped metal bar below and between hinges? I'd like to keep it as clean as possible so it looks nice.What did you use to cut bumper reinforcement,A right angle drill? there's only 1 1/2" for drill to fit. Thanks Tim

Thanks that cleared that up. I bought the cam for a 94 caprice 9c1 [same as Impala ss]that I was going to drag race. That's part of reason I was confused on ends.I'm sure the cam end is the newer pin drive type. OH well I have a good used stock optispark of that newer pin drive type if I wanted to use the cam to my corvette. Thanks again Tim

thanks I thought the newer ones had splines.I bought a used probillet MSD optispark w /splined end, thinking that it was what it needed.I think I was told the 93 was crossover year though and might have either type of end. that you had to look. How big is the nose on a small nosed lt1 cam?

I'm sure it's the 846 cam now but after looking at it it has the pin on cam end for optispark hookup not the splined end I need for the 93 vette. It might have been too much for a street car anyway. Thanks for your help Tim

Well I'm going to have to look at the cam again. Bought it years ago and haven't looked at in a long time.I wanted a wilder cam than the hot cam at the time.I wanted some lope to it. I'm wondering it might be the GMPP 846 instead of the 845? What are the specs to that cam? I might be better off with the hot cam for the street but I have this one free now.Also if I used my 1:6 rockers with the hotcam, wouldn't that make the lift at valve closer to the 846's lift anyways? thanks Tim

Hi I have a cam left over from anther car. It's a Gm 845 also have lifters and 1:6 roller rockers,and Exotic muscle long tube headers. thinking of mildly porting factory lt1 alum heads adding 373 gears and 3000 torque converter. my car is mostly a street car with some small amount of drag racing and autocross. How will this cam be on the street? To high a rpm for street? Thanks Tim

Well that makes sense.The one thing that worries me about rod ends is how long they will last on the street.Have any of you used them for a long time? I worry about dirt getting in them, yes I know you can put seal savors to help keep them clean. I've read that teflon in the rod end will also help wipe the dirt out and make it last longer. Do all rod ends have teflon or do you have to special order them that way? Thanks Tim

I agree Baski arms in rear are a better choice and that's what I going to do as I can afford it. I've read that the reason delrin is bad as a street suspension bushing is because they are so hard they get hammered and over time get flattned and deformed. Poly bushings have a little more give to them but I'm sure some of them are better than others. I was hoping someone could give an idea how long they used[on the street] either delrin or poly bushings or rod ends in the rear and if they had any problems? I'd like graphite impregnated bushings, I'll check with PST about their bushings. On the energy suspension bushings is the problem that they bind up against frame to front and rear when bolts are tightened? Thanks

on rear I was going to wait till Banski does anther group buy to get his arms for the rear rather than use poly bushings there.Still debating that a little, using rod ends on the street even with the seal savers. Thanks Tim

Thanks for the replies. I was looking at Energy suspension as I can buy just the control arm bushings from them as that is all I need to finish the front end.I already have poly swaybar and shock bushings. Wasn't worried about autocross class as there are other things hurting me there anyway,c5 brakes,bigger swaybars,headers etc. I don't know if I'd try poly without grease zerts. I don't like drilling alum. arms either but every search I do on poly bushings comes up with them drying out after about 6 months and either making noise or binding up even damaging alum arms. Thought about cutting grooves on inside of bushings and pushing grease from side with pin tip on grease gun. Thanks Tim

Hi this spring I need to rebuild my front end on my 93 corvette.I'm planning on trying autocross with the car but it's mostly a street car. Can anyone give advice on what bushings to use. I've read that delrin bushings are quieter than poly but won't last as long as delrin is harder and tends to wear or warp out of shape [oblong] over time [just what I need with a street car]. Thinking of using Energy suspensions poly kit maybe as price is right and might be ok with grease fittings to keep bushings lubed and quiet. Is that a good one to use? I've heard that even some of the poly ones wear quickly. If I were to put grease fittings how would you do it? I guess you drill in middle between the two bushings and drill through the steel center bushing also? Thanks Tim

So the 700R4 in my 85 4x4 might be worth rebuilding? I've seen web sites that show how to update and improve the fluid flow of older 700R4's by drilling and changing size of holes etc.in older 700R4's. I opened it up and all looked great,even the clutches and band looked great.At the time I wondered about doing the fluid update,a shift kit and a stock rebuild kit,but didn't do it because I thought I'd be better off with newer 700R4 core. If a newer core is best, what about going to the even newer electronic shifted transmissions?What are they called 4L60/4L80e? I've seen on ebay someone sells everything needed to convert these back to old style shifting. So you don't need a computer to shift it. They want way to much for the small stand alone computers kits for them to be an option.Thanks Tim

Hey Pete A general question about 700R4's? I understand GM fixed various things and improved things in the 700R4 the more years they used them. Can the early year 700R4's be improved to same amount as later year 700R4's or is it money wize better to look for a later year 700R4 core to rebuild when you have one of the first year 700R4's they made? Thanks Tim

Summit can get them , said 800.30 Good Luck Tim

Hi I'm tring to rebuild a dana 44HD rearend this winter that I bought to replace the dana 36 in my 93 corvette. I was thinking of cyroing the stock posi housing but am wondering if I'd be better off just replacing it with a hiperformance one if there is a better one'. Thanks Tim

I used to powdercoat. When you want something to look extra shiny or if you are covering something with a lot of profile we used to preheat the part being powdercoated to point the powdercoat melts as it hits the part. this builds the amount of powder on the part and also smooths it out making it look much more shinny. The next time you need something powdercoated ask them if they will do this. This trick will make a night and day difference in how the part looks. Kind of like the difference in painting something and basecoat/clearcoating it. Good Luck Tim

Hi What I did was put car jacks under tires so some of the the car weight was on the tires before tightening retainer bolts as manual said car had to be on ground when doing that.I was wondering if I had too much pressure on tires when I tightened retainers as the one retainer snapped when I let pressure off that tire. I knew that the retainers were short so I sliped two 1/16" body shims under each side of the retainers to make up for being too short. It worked on the pass side but not the drivers side the side that's high,Probley why it broke. What do you think about slotting the retainer mount holes so I can center the spring?I don't know if centering spring will drop it but I could switch ends on spring first to see if that switches high side.Not really sure what you mean by bottoming out the spring against the chassis. I think it is.I belieive it's hitting the top of spring tunnel.one thing I tried to do was slip a peice of paper and also a hacksaw blade in to see when wedges hit chassis compared to how close and when retainer was to being bottomed out. it's too far out of wack I might have to do something drastic like take the drivers side wedge out completely[3/8" drop maybe] or sand it down[that will give maybe 1/4" drop] or maybe hammer up the spring tunnel above drivers side of spring. The pass side looks perfect right where I want it[26 1/4'] and rear is about an 1" higher for a rake effect.Sorry this got so long but If I can't get drivers side down lowering front was not worth it. Thanks Tim

Mine didn't have any shims above the spring. it did have a thin sheet metal with square pocket that the old rubber sat in [kind of glued in]. Since the new wedge wasn't square like the old rubber, I didn't see any way to reuse it. My notes say before I started the pass. side was high so it's possible I flipped the spring on putting it in. I really don't see that much wrong that could be making one side way high. I adjusted rear height,adjusted tire pressures,took front shocks out,bounced front end,drove it etc. I'm wondering if just because the retainer is cracked could make that side higher? It all looks tight though and held where it should. Thanks Tim

corvettes are reverse belt rotation from most chevy's not too manny make kits for them. The blower I was looking to use was the weiand small block truck kit. This blower has a long nose that lined up almost perfect with adding a pulley on top of stock balancer on bottom.

Hi I wouldn't do that to a vette but I have a 95 caprice cop car with a lt1 I'm thinking of adding a roots blower too. I looked into it. It would be a pretty cheap way to make power if you already had the blower. About all you have to do on lt1 is redrill a different intake bolt pattern or two different intake bolt patterns on the heads.The bolt patterns are not that different and most of the ports, pulleys and other stuff fit just fine. The only problems are with the injection setup [figure a accel unit could handle that] and the transmission being electronic[many ways around that] and having to rewire everything and hood clearence. Give the guy a little credit, I know what car I'd be looking at if it were in a car show!

Hi i cut my spring rubbers off before the lowering wedges came, when I got wedges it said to measure rubber before and after to know how much to shorten alum. spring retainers. I guessed but ended up to short and one broke setting the car on ground. First does anyone know part no. for the alum spring retainer? second any of you who have dropped their car with the wedges. What length did you end up on the retainer. Did it look like it was even with top of wedge or slightly less to kind of preload the spring in a little [Say 1/8"]? Part of the problem is car is an inch different in height side to side[ground to fender lip]. The front spring looks not centered.It's like 1/4" to 3/8" pushed to the drivers side. If I die grinded the spring retainer bolt holes more to pass side, do you think this would center spring and possibly drop drivers side height? Thanks Tim