OK. Found different information in a different section of the FSM. Figures. So, I assume page 8A-31-1 is incorrect. It is a schematic page.It shows the information as closed 240 and open 190. On page 6E3-C12-3 the information on the switch is different. Page 6E3-C12-2 shows pressures at open 233 closed 185. I hope this helps someone else in the future. What a pain the FSM has conflicting information.

Am I reading the FSM correctly? My 89 stops blowing cold in town and the engine gets HOT. Fan comes on with the high engine coolant temp but not with the refrigerant pressure switch. The FSM says the switch should open at 190psi and close at 240psi. In the closed state my fan stays off and comes on in the open state which I must simulate by unplugging because it does not go open. Obviously a bad switch but is my ECM working the fan in reverse? Am I confused? I assumed high pressure would turn the fan on not low. What am I missing here? Show me the light Guru's as I feel as though I am wandering aimlessly in the dark. My apologies for the long post...

Run a wire from the battery negative or the seat frame and koeo plug it into f. Not sure I trust pin "A" for ground sourcing. You should hear it click. Changing it is easy though. A couple 10mm bolts hold it in. You can get it with the harness or the cheaper one you splice in. There is also a fourth gear pressure switch wired into the harness. FSM has Chart C-8A for diagnostic testing. Did you drive it and see the light go out (voltage between f and ground "not A" = 0v)when the car is at temp and running steady in fourth gear?

you can test it at the aldl without the car running and hear it click... you should be using a test light btw as the f is the return path of voltage. It will be lit if the brake switch is good. The ECM provides a ground path. When driving the test light plugged in f will go out when the ECM closes the circuit to lock it up...

My solid SMC not plexi top is starting to release from the frame. What do the Guru's suggest as the best/most appropriate adhesive to bond the SMC back to the frame? I only wish to seal it back where it is beginning to release and not remove it and start from scratch if at all possible...

Is the fan on my 89 supposed to run when the AC is on? I just had a compressor failure and I had noticed before the failure lack of cooling when not moving. Instead of taking the time to figure it out before it failed I am doing it the expensive way and learning now hopefully. It seems that at a stop if the ECM does not call for the fan to run the ac head pressure would be self destructive. Any advice would be appreciated.

Seems feasible. Three position switch. You are simply providing (or not) the ground to complete the circuit (that is how the ECM does it). You could also break the hot at the brake switch ahead of the transmission but that would not allow a forced lock but would stop the lock up.

The motor that drives the blend door is hidden under the "hush" panel above the passenger floorboard. I found it simpler to remove my seats to get under both side of the dash. You did check the programmer? The resistor solder joints failed on mine. Real pain to get to and remove. All of the vacuum lines are controlled by it. It is above the hush panel on the drivers side. On mine when the unit first comes on it actuates the blend door as if it is relearning its position. When my blend door was not actuating it turned out to not be the blend motor but the solder joint on the resistor in the programmer.

What is the easiest way to make an 88 top fit an 89? Why should I not simply remount the bracket on the top where it needs to be? I know this requires drilling.

Have Bosch III's from FIC. It is an L98.Pumped out fuel. Added some new. Appears to have lost three cylinders at the moment. Unplugging the injector on these three change nothing. It is late. I am tired. I will pull the plugs on those three tomorrow after work. Contacted the company and now I have to have an ASE certified mechanic and garage check it out to file a claim. What a pain. I guess there are just too many dishonest people anymore.

Looks like I bought a little over 15gal of contaminated fuel Friday evening. I did not drive the car all weekend and only drove straight home from the station. Went out after work and was going to head off and the car was missing terribly. Then shut down and would not start back up. Thinking the pump quit I got out the tester. Upon hooking it up I noticed the fuel did not smell right. Pumped the "fuel?" in a bottle and found I have a nasty mix of yuck lemonade looking stuff floating on top of orange looking water stuff. Any suggestions on removing this crap without causing damage to anything?

This article led me to my solution
http://www.batee.com/corvette/acrepair/c68pgmrboard/index.htm

I used Willcox. Everything fit as it should. It has only been six months so I can not comment on longevity...

Sell the c4 and buy a C5... I saw one this weekend for 13. I fear that may be my next endeavor.

My injectors acted this way when failing. Ran great cold. Dont know how though. Good thread here with lots of info.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-te ... videos-and-questions.html
I am not trying to push CF by any means BTW...

On my Coupe I have replaced all of my weatherstripping except for two pieces that I do not see listed at Willcox's site. They are small pieces located on the body in the door jamb and do not look bad but I have water coming in at the front of each door running into the floorboards. I cant imagine it being anything other than these and wonder if the new stripping is holding the doors from sealing on these older pieces. Any ideas? I have been reading 10-1-4 in the FSM and it shows 5 known leak paths!

There is a local listing on craigslist here for a 96 corvette engine with heads 70k miles supposedly for 500.00 Listed feb 1

http://wilmington.craigslist.org/pts/2192268184.html

I have a couple questions about the Corbeau A4 seats. You installed the standard seats not the wide I am assuming. The seat fits on the power base without too much hassle and or welding? I do not understand the passenger side seat as the driver side comment. Could you elaborate?

This information would be very helpful to me in making my decision to replace the seats versus recovering the not so comfortable standard factory ones in my 89.

Victory! Dibbs go to Woodstock for enlightening me and simplifying my procedure. I was trying too hard to remove a wasted part in a delicate manner. I took his advice and put channelocks on the valve and bent it in each direction gaining access to each of the bolts for simple removal. Maybe next weekend I can get back to the transmission. Thanks all...

I was worried that if I broke off the diaphram the actuator might fall into the intake. I guess I should have looked closer at it. I am using a 3/8 craftsman 12 point box end and it is starting to get loose on the bolt and the bolt is not getting loose. That was the point of going to a six point before I screw myself. As far as the lock up there is a previous post about it. I will break the diaphram and I have a similar tool set by B&D. I will break it out too. Thanks for the suggestions. I will post if and when I succeed. Soaking now...

Ok. So I have been getting intermittent code 32 on my '89 and pulled a vacuum on the EGR valve and it did not hold vacuum. Ordered a new valve with gasket and proceeded to replace. For the life of me I can not get out the two bolts out that hold it on. One of them is starting to round. I am off to buy a six point box end 3/8 and/or maybe a six point 1/4 drive ujoint socket. I am hoping someone will tell me what they used so I can get past this and on to the previous project of figuring out my no lock up torque converter. On that I am hoping to find a bad pressure switch upon Mr Pete's guidance. I just thought I would knock out this "simple" (funny isn't it) task first. Thanks...

I believe the temp switch is set high as in overheat protection trying to force lock up to cool the tranny. I may be wrong though. Sure would not be the first time. Governor seals went out in the ZF tranny in my Saab so I was doing that today. Might wait a week or two to start back on this one. Drives perfect except for the no lockup. I also see the Transgo Kit has a no wire lock up I assume for retrofits. Just an idea. I would prefer to make mine work as intended so I will follow Pete's suggestions and start checking the four (is mine the only year with four?) pressure switches.

had 11.6v and switch works and the test light on aldl term f shows everything checking out as it should. According to the FSM the light goes(grd solenoid/energizing) out above 40mph and when temp exceeds 135. Comes on (ungrounding solenoid/open)with brake tap. No change in RPMs... so I thought it had to be the solenoid sticking but it appears not. Freaking thing is driving me nuts. And on the test ride after all that I get a 32 code thrown. Looks like the EGR diaphram is gone. I see the sensor on fleabay for 500!

I followed the flow chart in my FSM and all things checked out fine with the test light so I spent the day pulling the pan and changing out the solenoid hoping that maybe it was a piece of thrash keeping the converter from locking up.I was wrong.My tests tell me the converter should be locking but it isn't and I do not have the tools to check the fluid pressures while running. Does anyone have any ideas and or suggestions? I have never had the torque converter lock since I have owned it BTW (less than a year). I believe it has been out of the car before because the clip on the VSS connector is broken. I did not think the converter clutches are prone to failure. 89 C4 132000miles...
Thanks

Still lurking...

Any suggestions on a new radiator? I have an 89 daily driver. Radiator is leaking where the tank meets the core. Are the two or three row worth the difference? Should I make sure the new one is plastic free? Thanks...

They are worth something to those who show their cars as anything not original would be a deduction...

Digital dash speedo acts funny. Sometimes stops working after hitting a bump. Starts back on the next. Quit one time and I wiggled the connector at the tranny and it started back. Also when working it acts like it is on a delay. Slow reaction time. Takes a while to read the correct speed once rolling. Speed sensor failing? Dash issue? Definite connection issue. But it still reacts slowly when working. Ideas? Hope someone else has been down this road and will give me some insight. Thanks in advance...

My 89 came with a red top optima with dual posts. Now I have to look and see if it was modded. The PO pointed out the battery but did not mention modding anything to make it fit.

My first Vette was a 77. Got it cheap when I was young because it wasn't running right. Got it home and started pulling it apart and the factory cam had worn one each of the lobes in front of the bearings to almost perfectly round. The lifters stopped spinning on these lobes and the cam had cut a groove in them. Real pain to remove those lifters. Replaced with a cheap Sig cam and lifters from the speed shop and never had another problem. I believe it was a problem with the metal of the casting of the original.

Mine does the exact same thing. My injectors ohm'd bad so I am hoping that is my fix. I believe a cat failure could cause this also. My vacuum readings suggest I do not have a back pressure issue though.