Well, since I did this the other day, I decided to write it up. This is really one of the easiest jobs to do on the car, if you can believe that! Reason for replacement on mine was a suspected faulty check valve in the stock 20 year old pump, plus with the new engine I wanted to make sure I was feeding it properly. So I got a brand new walbro race pump with install kit from racetronix. Total cost was around $125 shipped. Their kit includes the new sock and tank gasket that will be required, as well as new allen cap screws with integrated o-rings, high pressure fuel line to replace the fuel dampener, and a plug & play wire harness. Nice kit for the price.



First you should run the car and pull the fuel pump fuse to relieve the pressure in the system. It's that 10 amp fuse titled "FR" in the lower right hand corner.



Once that is done, move to the rear of the car. You should see this:



Go ahead and remove the fuel door which is held in by 4 size 15 torx screws.



Next, gently push the rubber surround down and finesse it out of the hole. You may have to use some pressure to pull if off from around the fill neck. Be careful since the rubber is likely to tear. Note it is also connected to a drain line at the bottom that needs to be pulled off.



You'll see the top line is the fuel supply, the bottom right is the fuel return, and the bottom left is for the EVAP system that runs to the front of the car.

Make sure the area is clean of any gunk and debris so it doesn't fall into your gas tank. Now go ahead and remove the fuel hoses and bolts securing the assembly in. Here you can see the bolts removed, as well as the wiring harness disconnected and the fuel lines plugged with bolts:



Pull up and back and wiggle the assembly a little to get it out. Once out, you'll see this. Note the orientation of the sock (facing forward):



The fuel pickup area inside the tank looks like this:



Another shot of the assembly. The yellow part on the bottom is the float that literally "floats" in the tank. This is what give you the fuel reading. If you follow up the float arm, you will see where it connects to a little box. This can get corroded in cars that sit over time without gasoline and gives faulty readings. If you carefully pry back the three tabs holding it together, you can clean it with some very fine sandpaper. Don't clean the windings that the arm moves against, though.



Here is the new pump assembled. First remove the old pump and the rubber grommet on the bottom, along with the dampener. Slide the fuel hose over the hard line (cut to proper length) and slide the hose clamps on. Place the rubber sleeve over the new pump and insert with the new lower rubber grommet. Connect the pump to the fuel line and also the new wiring harness. You can also see I put the new pump sock in the same orientation as the stock one.



I had an issue after I installed mine where the wiring harness became disconnected after install. The pump ran for 2 minutes then died! I don't know if I bumped it during reinstall or the clip didn't seat well. My solution to this problem was zip ties:



All reinstalled with the new bolts:



Don't forget to reinstall the fuse, and you're ready to check turn the key and check for priming. If it works, you're all set! If not, you've got some other troubleshooting to do, but that won't be covered here.

Hope this helps anyone in the future.

Matthew

Nice write up. Thank you for taking the time to do that.

Luckily for me you posted lots of pictures...

Yep that is one of the easier projects on our cars. Your post just makes it that much easier for people, great write up and pics.

Thanks guys. It really is a pretty simple repair. I think it's a good way for people who are afraid of working on their own car to get their feet wet. On a scale of 1-10, this is like a 2.

Matthew