What locks those bolts to the studs? I would be concerned with those walking off.

I don't recognize that brand... so I may be speaking from total ignorance... just sharing an observation.

Same rockers I'm using. Nice stuff

It is impossible to make a judgment as to the push rod length from the
pictures posted. As biggrizzly's second post points out, the correct length
rod is revealed in the path the rocker arm roller traverses during a cycle.
Your snap shot doesn't show the pattern. At best, it just shows the
position at some arbitrary, unknown, point in the travel.

Especially in the top two photos, are the Allen headed set screws
installed? If so, they look set awfully deep into the adjusting nut. If the
screws are in there and the preload is anywhere near where it will end up, I
would remove an adjusting nut to see how many threads of the stud are
engaged by the nut. My guess, from what I can see, is not enough.
Based on a photo, and not being there, I'm guessing you need rocker
arm studs that are about a 1/4" longer. Maybe I'm wrong and it's just the
pic, but it's a lot cheaper to check, now, while it's going together than to
check to see why the adjusting nuts stripped out and flew off of the studs,
later.

RACE ON!!!

Nylok is a type of nut you simply will never find in a valve train. Its the type of locking nut that has a nylon washer built into it, and in an ideal world, this creates enough friction to prevent the nut from working loose.

CFI is right (and hi CFI, good to see you ) that the pics don't tell anything for sure. I was looking at the pic that looks like both valves are closed, and it appears the roller tip is near or just back of the center of the tip. That is how mine look, and when I turn the motor over till the valves each open it is just past center. The black marker method is a good idea. I used some thread sealer for pattern checking paste as that is what was laying near me at the time. My pattern was almost dead centered in the valve tip but was a little wider than the one that biggrizzly posted as a good one. But I would assume the more lift and higher the rocker ratio the wider the pattern. I know I'm fine because it is in the center of the valve tip. I bought 7.15" chromemoly pushrods used as they were a steal and I figured I could sell them if they weren't the right length for me. I was pretty sure they were, and after installing and checking the pattern I am sure. As far as the locks being deep, mine are too. Maybe not quite as deep as yours but again it is hard to tell from pics. I did take one of mine back off and to my surprise it has plenty of threads engaged. I'm surprised how much adjustment those nuts and locks have. The one question that I can never get a consistent answer on is, with stock type lifters but stronger valvesprings and higher lift cam and 1.6 rockers, should the preload be changed from stock or should it still be 1 turn past 0 lash. Answers are always different so I decided since I'm running stock rockers I went with the stock 1 turn setting. I guess I'll know when I get my intake and get it fired up!

Just 2 Cents. I think you need a push rod length checker. I don't think you can adjust the valves when it is running unless it is pre 70. It will idle fast and squirt oil everywhere.

What length studs did you buy? I'm getting ready to order a set of ARP studs and don't know if I should go with the 1.75 or 1.89 length?