Is there a lighter alternative to the stock driveshaft? Not looking to spend alot just weighing the option.

What is the stock one made of? Would Aluminum be lighter?

Mine is coming out in a few weeks for new U joints anyway.

Stock is aluminum. There might be a carbon fiber version available but I'm not sure where. Van Steel has CF axle shafts.

Ehh cf driveshaft just doesnt sound as stout but Im sure it is. Ill pass and keep the stocker until I twist it in half

I have heard of halfshafts going before driveshafts...

These are pretty light already, too.

I doubt I will ever break a halfshaft. Maybe the D36 in general but i wont have enough power to smash a half shaft.

I was thinking of this to reduce unsprung weight in the driveline

The stock shafts are pretty light already, both drive and half. A carbon fibre shaft would be lighter, but you'd have to use a steel yoke on both ends so you'd probably come out heavier if anything. The flex effect of the carbon is worth something though, so if you come across a good deal on a carbon fibre shaft I think you should do it. I don't know if the difference would be able to be quantified, but the slight twist the carbon will accept should theoretically help the rear end survive a shock load, and then when the shaft straightens back out it should give the car a little push, assuming the tires are hooked.

Wheels/tires are the easiest way to reduce rotating weight, followed by rotors.

Getting the half shafts as level as possible will also allow for more power transfer to the tire instead of the power being absorbed in the angularity of the shafts.

Some higher end stuff might be titanium lug studs or other air craft hardware.

Also, I broke several half shafts with stock power. You've got an auto though, so I doubt you'll have that problem.

Not drag racing here. All road and autox

How does the auto hold up doing that kind of stuff? I've always heard that the auto cars cook the transmission doing that kind of stuff.

Ive only done autox locally and we have a fairly big area. Once it shifts to 2nd it usually doesnt downshift. Fluid looks fine after 4 months.

I am going to run a trans cooler and temp gauge before going to my first road race. I will set it in D (not OD) and let it go. With 3.08 rear diff I have plenty of room to play without shifting gears much. With 3.54 or 3.73 I would see the temps rising quickly.

my 700r4 is a stock. Nothing special. I have 3 extra and 1 is going to my trans guy eventually to get a power overhaul. I do notice that before I added power I could shift into OD at 35mph and now it wont until 42mph. Might be slipping or my stock TC is going. Either way they are both on the list.