I'm glad to hear the engine is back together. Good luck with it Will. Shoot me a note the next time you head to Richmond or VMP, maybe the stars will align and I can make it out there.

That's awful Will. Good luck with the repairs.

I've been away for quite awhile, what's the scoop on your nitrous set up? Direct port or ???

What were your jet sizes? Are you using a Lamba adder (which actually subtracts from the target Lambda number but the still call it an 'adder') or just the jets to dial it in?

I ran Akebono ceramic pads on the front/rear of mine and liked them. I never did any HPDE or anything with my car, but it saw a fair number of mid 120 to zero stops.

I didn't ever push the brakes on the car very hard, I can't ever remember slamming on them in a panic type scenario, so I don't have input on how they stopped compared to anything else.

The thing I liked the most about them was little to no dust on the wheels. That was something I had to deal with a lot with the other pads because I drag raced the car so much. 100+ to zero half a dozen times and the front wheels were a different color than the rears until I switched to the Akebono pads.

I got a round of drinks with your name on it if you can swing up I95 into NC.

No nitrous, that's on motor.

I did eventually put the bottle on it, but never made it back to the track with it on the jug.

On some big jets (about 200 HP worth, according to the online calculators) it made 550 RWHP / 600 RWTQ. I'd like to think it would have gone mid 10's at 135 or so pretty easily, but that's just conjecture since I never put up the number.

Ran across this while digging through an old computer. For those of you who don't know, this is the 383 car that was involved in the AFR / TFS head comparison that this forum sponsored.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zSfrX7QbhO8

The car is a 6 speed, on 315/35-17 nitto drag radials. This is with the AFR heads on the car, in this configuration it made 415 / 395 at the wheels on a dynojet 224.

The 60 foot on this pass was a 1.67, which isn't horrible for a nitto drag radial in a stick shift C4, but you can still hear the engine bog down a bit about about 15 feet off the starting line.

The car is a 95 Mustang GT.

The VIN swap trick is a felony, I'm not willing to get a yard of prison cock shoved up my ass just to drive a 15 second Mustang, lol.

I talked with the DMV about the car, and there is a process I can go through to get the car on the road. There are a few hurdles, but it looks like it can be done.

There is no title for the car.

In NC, if you are convicted of prearranged speed contest, your car is sold at public auction, and the proceeds go to the public school system. However, the car must be returned to stock if it is modified. In the event that the modifications are so extreme that returning the car to OE isn't practicable, the car is re-titled as 'Junk'.

Once the title is tagged as junk, the car can never be titled or tagged again.

To register the car, the first step is to get the 'junk' tag off the title. There is a DMV inspector that can inspect the car, and if they deem the car roadworthy they have the power to remove the 'junk' tag.

Once that's done, I can buy an indemnity bond and transfer the title to my name.

Last, I can register the car.

As long as the DMV inspector is willing to play ball, and the old owner of the car doesn't pop up and claim that I stole his car or something - it looks like I can get the car legal again.

I recently bought a car that was seized for street racing a few years ago. When the guy got convicted, the judge ruled that the car could never be registered again and the VIN was tagged in the DMV computer as a no-go.

I bought the car with the intention of parting it out, but it is such a nice car... It runs great, the AC is cold, everything works, it's in really good shape cosmetically, etc...

As I stood there looking at it, blow torch in one hand sawzall in the other, preparing the hack it to pieces for the part-out process, I started to feel a little piece of my soul die. The car would make an amazing first hot rod for a teen / tween. It looks great, has great brakes, and enough horsepower to get you in trouble, but not enough that it gets out of hand easily, it's got low miles, seems dead reliable, etc... It seems stupid to destroy such a nice car because some judge wanted to make an example out of someone 4 years ago.

Instead of killing my soul a little, I thought I'd ask around and see if someone had a suggestion on an appeals process that might get the ruling reversed or something. Any help is appreciated.

In your original post you say it made 434 RWHP / 470 RWHP.

Is that the difference between the tunes, or did you mean to say 470 RWTQ?

A buddy let me borrow his go-pro camera last weekend at Rockingham Dragway in NC.

On this pass the car went 11.3 @ 125.

http://youtu.be/pvYYJWBzEJM

For anyone who reads this far, final ET and MPH for the AFR heads after getting some seat time is 11.37 @ 122.

Thanks for the compliments on the WS6.

Will-

Ya, getting a softer a clutch in the car would definitely help you get it off the line without destroying XXX in the rear. I have a dual friction Centerforce in mine and really like it. It handles the power well, and has some give to it. I'm on less tire than you (315 nittos) and attribute my ocassional 1.65 short time to the clutch.

Good luck with it Will. What's it going to take to get you to bring that thing down here and go with us to the track? That ten second slip is only a state away man!

Thanks for the kind words guys. Yes, that is my daughter.

The T/A is a tank compared to the vette, completely different experience to drive. The T/A is like a heavy axe, the vette more like a scapel. Both are in the business of cutting things, but are dramatically different instruments.

Washed up both cars today, here's a couple pictures:

Any plans to go with some gas on that thing? It would really scoot with another 150 HP, lol.

That's a wicked combo man, it's got to be making high 400's or maybe low 500's to see that kind of MPH. 100 more HP than CID is impressive fo' sho'. What kind of RPM is it capable of?

What tire are you on? What's the clutch/FW combination?

Mind sharing some of the details with me? PM is fine, or if you wanna brag, post it up!

And when the Hell did you start trapping 127? That is STRONG for an NA C4, congrats!

I dunno man, we go almost every weekend with some car or another. I still have quite a bit to do before it's track ready with spray, but it'll happen before the end of the year.

I still need to get it on the dyno, figure out what kind of timing it will tolerate on the gas (right now, I'm 10 degrees less than my base tune), dial in the AFR, etc... I'm using hardware store tubing fittings on the end of the hard lines, and (big surprise) they leak a bit when I spray, so I'll have to order some AN hose ends and replace those. The kit isn't wired into the Mallory box, so there's no window switch right now and the only way I can pull timing is in the tune, so on motor it's down probably 30-40 HP, and there's a million other little things that need to happen before I can set the car on 'kill' and take it to the track. All that stuff takes time, and worse, money.

New pad, new garage, new Firebird, new daughter, etc... All that shit is expensive, and now my stupid ass wants to take the only paid for car I own, smack it with 250 HP of dope, and try to run the quarter in single digits. I should just put the car on the market and use the cash to pay bills, but fuck man... I really think the car has a 9 second pass in it on a 250 shot and the perfect run. I'd probably kill myself if I sold it and never even took my shot at single digit ET's.

I haven't been around much lately, but I thought I would share that I finally put some nitrous back on my car. For those that don't know, my car is a 1991 C4, M6, with a pretty basic 383 and some AFR heads. When I did the motor I did wider ring gaps and a bit more bearing clearance in anticipation of doing a big N20 shot, but I never got around to putting the jug on the car.

Well, I took it out tonight jetted for 200 HP. The car was reasonably strong on motor (414 RWHP, consistent 11.50's @ 122 N/A) but on 200 HP of dope it's pretty nasty.

Here's a couple pics I took before the test drive.





This silver 02 Z28 was hydro-locked a month or so ago by a co-worker of mine. Tired of hearing him bitch about his busted car, I drug the car to my garage and we pulled the engine. The motor is at the machine shop now, and should be ready to go back in the car any day now.



And here's my new ride. It's an 02 Trans-Am, WS6. Navy blue metallic outside, black interior, and a 6 speed. I love the vette, but I can't bring my Lady and my 15 month old daughter with me in the 2 seater. The T/A has 4 seats, Patriot heads, cam, SPEC clutch, 12 bolt solid axle, and a 125 shot of nitrous.

I have been through several iterations, and the most effcient way I've found to do it is everything in a large single drawer; I use the Hansen trays to organize my sockets and 1/2 inch thick foam cut outs to organize the ratchets and extensions - all in the large top drawer of my bottom box.

I normally take a 1 x 4 and screw about 60 dry wall screws partially into it at 1 inch intervals. I attach that to the wall and then hang my wrenches on it. I had my girl run a piece of green masking tape above the wrenches and label their locations with a black marker. Now, she can find them when I ask her to grab one. I've done it like that for years now, and just build another one when I move. It looks pretty professional if you paint the 1 x 4, I like the look of 'cast aluminum' paint.

In my current garage, I hung up some pegboard and am using that to hold wrenches and other tools. Thus far, I like the 1 x 4 method better for wrenches. The peg board hooks seem to fall off if I'm not careful grabbing wrenches.

I'm sure you've been there, but www.garagejournal.com is a great resource for garage stuff. The signal to noise ratio is kinda high, but if you can get past that there are some great ideas on there.

God Speed Jim, hold a spot in the pits for me.

RACE ON!

Can you convert to a C5 or C6 dash cluster? That would solve the gauge issues, right?

I was looking at a C5 Zo6 cluster the other day, and it looks feasible from a dimension stand point.

Why are you hooked on keeping the ASR? Is that a requirement where you are?

A guy did mine and murdered it way worse than that. He used a ring/pinion combo out of a Jeep D44 and used a piece of pipe to take up the extra pinion diameter.

Forgot about this one, sorry guys. Ya, it's a supercharged V6. It's the same Eaton blower that the OE's have been using forever, just with shorter rotors.

Well? Times?

Fuck.

Every time I see something you do I feel like an inferior human being. Do me a favor, and go straight to Hell. Do not pass go, do not collect $200.

The right stuff sets up very quickly. Once it's out of the tube, set your parts in place as quickly as possible.

I don't know anything about them, so it's entirely possible that they are 300C's with the 5.7.

Are they really that fast stock? I've never seen one get out of the 14's at the drag strip?

www.bobistheoilguy.com is the best website/forum I've found for oil related questions. Nearly everyone bases their opinion on some X factor, almost no one takes the time to actually do an oil analysis and make decisions based on real data. It's always, "I know this guy who lost an engine because he used QuakerState on the circle track... I won't use Quaker State because of that." Who the hell knows why some redneck lost a motor, it could have been a thousand things other than the oil. "My cousin took apart a motor and it looked like the rod bearings had machined the crank surface... He was using Mobile 1, so Mobile 1 is junk." Almost everyone has some bull shit story like that has guided them to one brand or another. There was a guy on here years ago, Casethecorvetteman, he was like that. He swore up and down that Royal Purple was junk and that Castrol was the best motor oil available. When asked about oil analysis, he admitted that he had never taken the time to have it done, he was basing his opinion on some engines that he had seen torn down that were using Royal Purple. He didn't even lay a micrometer to the parts, his entire opinion was based on data he acquired by LOOKING at some parts from a distance. He was willing to e-fight to the death on oil because of something he never touched or measured.

I don't know your builder, but I would be very surprised to learn that he is basing a recommendation for you on oil sample data. Most shops that I have experience with use an oil that hasn't directly caused them any comebacks. I would trust the builder on viscosity, since he set up the bearing clearances, but on brand... Do your own research. Doing your own research on it doesn't mean you won't go with your builders recommendation, but being informed can't hurt.

Oil analysis is cheap, $10-$20 at nearly any heavy equipment place. Dropping off a sample of your oil on the first, second, third, fourth, fifth, sixth, etc... oil change and looking at the data will tell you if you are making the right choice. For $15, there's no reason to keep guessing.

I'll jump in too, if you need a hand let me know. I do the Raleigh to Baltimore drive pretty regularly, so Woodbridge isn't out of the way much at all.

MD is fucked up. The entire state needs to be cut off from the rest of the country and set adrift in the Atlantic. Fuck that place.

While active duty military I lived all over the place, and I've never hated a place more than Baltimore, MD. Korea, Canada, Japan, Turkey, and Afghanistan all have Baltimore beat. Fuck Baltimore, that place is a shithole.

Regardless of which component has failed, you need to inspect the replacement carefully. I can't count the C4 cluch hydraulic jobs that I've done, but every single replacement part (master or slave) had crap in the bore out of the box. It doesn't matter where you get it or who makes it; there is junk in the bore every time.

Take it apart (the only 'specialty' tool you'll need is some snap ring pliers) make sure the seal is installed correctly, clean the junk out of the bore, and install.

Wait... Men and women are different? I thought everyone was equal? Why should anyone get in trouble for grabbing the chest of another EQUAL in a wrestling match?

If it were me, I'd probably do headers and nitrous. You don't say if the car is an auto or stick, but a converter is another great mod for automatic cars.

My dead stock 2000 Grand Prix GTP managed to eek out a 14.0 @ 96 the other day at Fayetteville Motorsports Park in Fayetteville, NC.

R/T - 1.4451
60 - 2.0609
330 - 5.8323
1/8 - 9.0011 @ 78.00
1/4 - 14.0525 @ 96.55

DA at the time of the run was about -300.

Not bad for a stock 6 cylinder.

Quote:

Ya, if I could go back I would probably go bigger. The only reason I have the 280 is because I ran it in the stock motor with TFS heads and the LT1 intake. When I did the 383 build, I couldn't afford another cam so I stuck with the 280. Don't get me wrong, I like it, and the car runs great, but I think you could go quite a bit bigger and not sacrifice much.

How does your car act? To me, it seems like that cam would be on the upper limit of what you could make reasonably streetable. That's just a guess though, I've never had a cam that large or tried to tune (or more accurately, have Mick tune) for something like that.

The F-body masters do have an angled bolt flange, so they aren't a direct bolt in for a C4. I don't know about a C5 master, it may work out of the box.

I didn't see anywhere that you mentioned final displacement? 383, 396, 355 or ???

I was also curious about cam specs and if the car is an auto or stick.

Thanks for sharing!

EDIT: Just found it in the other post. 383, 224/230.

Lol, I wish we had a 30K daily driver. My 00 Grand Prix GTP cost me $6100, and her 03 Pontiac Vibe cost us about $14,000.

Besides, we all know that the value of the car in the garage isn't important. I'm not spending the money on the garage to protect the car, I'm spending the money on the garage so I can enjoy myself when I'm out there. It doesn't matter what rust bucket I'm dinking with.

Ya, I am pretty excited about it.

She can park her shit outside, she's lost her God damn mind if she things she's getting a bay for her daily driver.

I did my time in a gravel driveway, I did my time in a storage unit, did my time in an undersized 1 car apartment garage, and have now done my time in a 2 car apartment garage. I spend roughly 30% of my life out there, and I'm sick of being crammed, cramped, uncomfortable, not having the room, not having enough power, etc... I'm done with it. I'll have a nice place to do the hobby, period. If she can't handle that, then she's with the wrong fella.

Here's some shots of my old 2 car garage at my apartment complex. Not bad as far as apartment garages go, but it's small (20 x 21), only has one power outlet, isn't tall enough to put the car up real high if the hood is open, etc...

[URL=http://s652.photobucket.com/albums/uu241/joshkinzey/Garage/?action=view¤t=Aptgarage.jpg][IMG]http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu241/joshkinzey/Garage/th_Aptgarage.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s652.photobucket.com/albums/uu241/joshkinzey/Garage/?action=view¤t=Aptgarage2.jpg][IMG]http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu241/joshkinzey/Garage/th_Aptgarage2.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s652.photobucket.com/albums/uu241/joshkinzey/Garage/?action=view¤t=Aptgarage1.jpg][IMG]http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu241/joshkinzey/Garage/th_Aptgarage1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

The old lady and I just accepted an offer on this place. The garage layout is kinda strange, so the first pic I've attached is a quick sketch I made on some graph paper to help everyone understand the layout.

[URL=http://s652.photobucket.com/albums/uu241/joshkinzey/New%20garage/?action=view¤t=GarageDiagram.jpg][IMG]http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu241/joshkinzey/New%20garage/th_GarageDiagram.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s652.photobucket.com/albums/uu241/joshkinzey/New%20garage/?action=view¤t=DSCF1614.jpg][IMG]http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu241/joshkinzey/New%20garage/th_DSCF1614.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s652.photobucket.com/albums/uu241/joshkinzey/New%20garage/?action=view¤t=DSCF1616.jpg][IMG]http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu241/joshkinzey/New%20garage/th_DSCF1616.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

10 foot ceilings, 4 bays, 220V... I'm in freaking love with this place. I guess there is a house somewhere on the property as well, lol. Here's a shot the old lady took of the backyard:

[URL=http://s652.photobucket.com/albums/uu241/joshkinzey/New%20garage/?action=view¤t=DSCF1621.jpg][IMG]http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu241/joshkinzey/New%20garage/th_DSCF1621.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

I'm pretty excited. Never been a home owner before.

My car starting running like you describe out of the blue about 2 months ago. The problem wasn't consistent in nature; car wouldn't idle, then it would idle at about 1200 nice and smooth but drove terrible, too rich, too lean, etc... No consistency at all with the symptoms. It ended up being the TPS sensor. The TPS would read normally on datamaster, had a nice sweep of voltage, etc... I was logging it one day and saw the TPS drop to zero voltage for a split second. I replaced the sensor and the car runs great.

I doubt you have the same issue, but it's an easy one to swap out.

Not bad for a stock car at all. With some minor tweaks and a good tune you should be able to put down another 30-40 RWHP. When my car was bone stock it made 230 RWHP on a dynojet. After doing the headers, exhaust, the free mods, 1.6 rockers, and spending an eternity on a dyno tune, it made 275 RWHP and ran high 12's at 106.

Wheels look great man! I don't have any answers as far as stud dimensions, but the wheels look awesome. Can't wait to seem them powder coated.

My car was doing that and it ended up being the TPS. The TPS would show no signs of a problem on a scan tool, but the car ran terrible. One day, while logging the car, I saw the TPS voltage drop to zero for a split second. I replaced the sensor and the car runs great now.

I'm using the XFI 280 cam in my 383. No problems, runs great with my Mseven tune.

I use the copper header gaskets from the chain stores. I've had the same set since 2005, taken the headers off/on 4-5 times, and never had a leak.

The one you are looking at, it's not through RedRose on the other forum is it? The one I got from him years ago was advertised much as you describe; distributor hole done, ready to bolt on and go. The distributor depth was incorrect, I didn't check it, and the oil pump drive was only engaged by about .010. The drive let go at 6K on the dyno and I lost oil pressure. That's the reason there is a 383 in my car now.

Regardless, be sure to check the depth on the distributor. A simple paste on the cam gear is all it would have taken for me to see there was a problem.

www.auveco.com

Download their catalog, it's great.

Just spray it. I probably ran 200 bottles through my stock motor and never broke anything. I wouldn't hesitate to spray an 80K LT1.

Do you know what clutch the car has in it? A stock replacement VS an aftermarket unit makes a good bit of difference when it comes to what kind of abuse the rear end will take.