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Joel -

The 4th gen f-bodies have a master cylinder that is compatible with the system. It requires a small spacer, and a different flare fitting on one line. It has a different low fluid switch (2-wire) that I haven't figured out how to convert, but that's no big deal to me.

Here's a previous post:

http://www.corvetteguruforum.com/modu ... e=&topic_id=13069&forum=1

Thanks.
I missed that original thread! Good info.

Joel

I'll take some pictures when I do it. It seems the hardest part will be putting a bubble flare on the front line while it's on the car. Not a ton of room to work and you have to crank down on that flaring tool like a mofo. I put a cheater bar on the clamp part to get it tight enough when I was doing practice flares.

I'm making good progress!

Yesterday I did the master cylinder conversion and bled the system. I also installed the new IAC.

Today I fixed the neutral safety switch and installed my o/d (off) switch.

Matthew

Spring project. Went and filled up my 91 with fresh fuel at $4.29 a gallon. $65.00 total.

My 83 911 needs a fill up too. Probably another $65.00

Well that's all the project money I have to spend this week.


The 87 has 1/2 a tank and the 90 has about 1/2.

Guess that'll be my next project.


The 79 928 is coming along. Looks to be about 3 months away from completion. When I get it back the drive train and associated systems should all be functional. Then I'll get to dig in on cosmetics/interior/switches/knobs/etc. It was about a year ago that I went up and had it shipped from Boston. Time flies. This car is a side project at a Porsche mechanics shop. It gets worked on in the down time when they're waiting for parts for other cars. No rush. It's stored in the garage at no cost to me ...... other than parts and labor.

Soooooo...you can add heater core to the list. Darn it. It seems like every time I get one step ahead...it's two steps back.

I also need to redo the o/d switch. Oh well.

Matthew

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Ooooorrrr you could...... a .....

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Get a divorce?

A quick picture of my temporary bypass. You can get a 3/4 to 5/8 hose reducer for about $3 at the parts store. Be aware that the lines going in/out of the heater core are different sizes. I then used my old TB hose for the curve since you can't properly bend the lines without them kinking. They also sell new u-shaped hoses for this.





A side note is I noticed the car is running cooler with the bypass. Must be 20 years of gunk built up in the heater core blocking the flow rate.

So tonight I ordered a new accumulator/drier and an orifice tube for the ac. Still need to decide on the refrigerant... r-134a or 12a (blended r12 replacement).

I also ordered the heater core along with it since it all ships out together. Not sure when that will be fixed.

Apparently I need to change the title of this thread

Forgot, I've started the air pump eliminator. My machinist friend made the spacer for the pulley but didn't like the online specs for it so he made some slight mods. I have to do measurements for the final mounting then I can mock it up, turn down the final spacer, and install.

I assume you're going to install a new shaft seal and case O-rings in the compressor?

Joel

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Hadn't thought about it.

I guess if it's easy enough?



I also bought a new accel 1000 cfm throttle body tonight to mate up with the SR.

It is really easy to re-seal these Denso's. This link has the best info I've seen, and any part you will need.
Click on the You Tube in the left corner for a good video.

Joel



http://www.centuryautoair.com/index.html

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Awesome. I found that link last night actually, but I appreciate you posting it! I'm gonna email them later.

Matthew

I was like a kid on Xmas today. Had my boxed up superram and recent rockauto order waiting for me when I got home.

I should note that the new AC Delco orifice tube and accumulator both say made in China on them. Oh well, no real choice there.

I still need to email that a/c company, Joel.

Good videos:

Bob from Century Auto Air emailed me back today reference parts. He also advised changing the pulley bearing since they can go bad. Good advice since I'll already be deep into it.

This is what I am ordering:

SPGM SEAL PROTECTOR DENSO 10PA / GM LIP SEALS-SPGM 0.00 $12.00 $12.00
SK-732N NIPPONDENSO 10PA SERIES SHAFT SEAL KIT - SK-732N 0.00 $12.00 $12.00
FJC 4958 UV SAFTEY GLASSES FJC 4958 0.00 $8.00 $8.00
KT-10PA20CN NIPPONDENSO 10PA20 O-RING KIT KT-10PA20CN 0.00 $10.00 $10.00
FJC 2205 MINERAL OIL 1 QUART FJC 2205 0.00 $12.00 $12.00
BG403 NIPPONDENSO 10PA15-10PA17-10PA20 BG403 0.00 $24.00 $24.00
Sub-Total $78.00
Shipping and Handling $8.50
Total $86.50

A good video on replacing the bearing:

That's all the o-rings you'll need. This needs to be done in a very clean area. I did mine in a large oil drain pan that was clean and washed out several times.
Be careful when you remove the clutch assembly, there are shims behind it that are easy to lose.
As the video shows, seperate the end case halfs one at a time.

And be generous with the oil when installing the shaft seal!

Good luck
Joel