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This is the manual transmission from 1984-1988.

It’s a Borg-Warner Super T-10 with a planetary overdrive attached to the tail shaft housing.
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95Vert Clutch Hydraulics
Senior Guru
Aiken, SC
440 Posts
Member since:
2008/6/2 1:15



Offline
Ok as background I've got a 95 with manual transmission. Last year...August maybe, I put the car in the garage. Just one thing after another with one of the plug wires, front right, coming loose and falling off. Turns out the spark plugs were loose. I know when I installed they were tight. One thing after another so I was just sick of all the issues.

That said, I cleaned the car the other night, jumped the battery and took it for a drive. Got the car back home without issue and stalled it out backing into the garage. Great. Couldn't get it started again as the battery was dead so we pushed it into the garage.

Today, I get into it and the battery has nice charge to start the car. Can't get the darned thing into any gear. Just grinds and then the clutch pedal goes soft.

Check the reservoir and it needs to be cleaned as the fluid is dirty, but very little fluid in it left. Fill it up and pump the clutch. So i get some action after pumping a while and I can get it in gear...no more grinding.

So, where do I start? 70,000 on it...change the master, hose and clutch slave? Is that slave accessible from underneath? I think I've found several people talking here about bleeding the slave. Can I get the parts from Napa or Rockauto and are they worth getting or are these dealer parts?
Posted on: 2013/4/27 1:48
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bam Re: Clutch Hydraulics
Senior Guru
missouri
250 Posts
Member since:
2010/8/20 19:44



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memory is a little foggy here, hope some others will chime in and verify if I am wrong. Got both master and slave from Rock Auto, be sure and get the cast slave and not the tube steel one. The hose I got from someone who I heard about from Carolina clutch, give them a call. Yes the slave is easily accesable from below. Before you install the slave point the valve down and gravity bleed it by allowing fluid to simply run out until no more air bubbles, keep the resivor full above, then install slave. After that pump the clutch, checking fluid level and it is designed to self bleed. There are some good guides out there, I will try and locate a link for you.
Posted on: 2013/4/27 2:30
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bam Re: Clutch Hydraulics
Senior Guru
missouri
250 Posts
Member since:
2010/8/20 19:44



Offline
good link from ZF doc.
http://zfdoc.com/clutch_hydraulic.htm
hope this is not against rules but this is a good how to; http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-ge ... on-zf6-pics-included.html
Posted on: 2013/4/27 2:41
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95Vert Re: Clutch Hydraulics
Senior Guru
Aiken, SC
440 Posts
Member since:
2008/6/2 1:15



Offline
Great links, thank you. I guess I have to find out what is broken and then work from there...!
Posted on: 2013/4/27 3:21
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TommyT-Bone Re: Clutch Hydraulics
Chair-man of the bored
Homestead USA
33782 Posts
Member since:
2007/12/10 0:00



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Sounds like it could be a the slave or hydraulic lines leaking. After you fill it up, why don'y you wait and see how long it takes to drain down again? Is there any puddling on the floor or under the carpet? I had my slave replaced a few years ago at the Chevy dealer. The replacement is leaking now with less than 4000 miles on it. I thought that going through them I wouldn't be subjected to the bad lot of slaves that were produced. I thought wrong. Of course there was a 12 month 12000 mile warranty that has long expired. Looks like I get to revisit that issue all over again. As far as stuff getting loose on it's own, that's a mystery. Does the car suffer from heavy vibration? If just a plug wire is falling off, a litte adjustment on the plug clamp inside the boot should take care of that. Did you torque your plugs in or manually tighten them till they set? Is your alternator charging? Batteries go bad. You can have it tested at a number of parts places or you can pay for a system check to isolate the specific issue. Overall, those issues are easily addressed and you should be on the road in no time flat. Unless there is something else ......
Posted on: 2013/4/27 11:14
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bam Re: Clutch Hydraulics
Senior Guru
missouri
250 Posts
Member since:
2010/8/20 19:44



Offline
I would guess you need to replace the master, slave and the braded line between the two. On my 93 the clutch started slipping under WOT. When I would drive into the garage there would be a small puddle of oil on the floor. I checked underneath and it was leaking from the bell housing. It was the clutch slave. I just decided to replace everything after almost 20yr. I also had to replace the clutch and flywheel, went with a single mass and spring clutch discs from Carolina clutch. Hopefully your dual mass is still good. Good luck.
Posted on: 2013/4/27 13:06
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