Well, in terms of goal, the idea is twofold, basically. First, get rid of a rotary that someone has just gone overboard on.
I got it super cheap out of CA, guy couldn't register it since it won't meet emissions there. Transport cost more than the car. Haltech, water injection, I actually had the turbo rebuilt...so it will move, but reliability on a rotary, especially one that's built is a huge question mark.

With the LS1, the car is faster, lighter actually and gets a huge increase in mpg. The electrical has been figured out and the RX7 systems stay. Gm computer is tied in.

The operative idea is an LSI out of Camaro, T/A or GTO.

Bottom line is speed and dependability. MPG is a great benefit as well.

I'm just starting to think seriously about this particular project.

What i want to do is put an LS1 with T56 manual transmission into my 89 RX7 Turbo. Its a fairly well known swap and the hardware is all available for purchase. Electrical has all been figured out.

What I am less sure about is buying the actual LS1. I'm thinking of the latest or newest version if you will, probably put in a 2004 or so GTO. Though I can get the takeout combo from a variety of sources, does anyone know what I need to look for or how to do it when sourcing the motor? I've also read a bunch on Norotors.com, but some of these guys are fairly advanced.

Further, what should I do to the motor in terms of minor upgrades or maintenance while the motor is out? Some of these guys upgrade to LS2 intake manifolds etc, double roller timing chains, etc. Not quite sure if that is necessary, but I thought I'd ask here. I'm comfortable here as opposed to on someplace like LS1Tech where I would be really new.

Ralf

Great links, thank you. I guess I have to find out what is broken and then work from there...!

Ok as background I've got a 95 with manual transmission. Last year...August maybe, I put the car in the garage. Just one thing after another with one of the plug wires, front right, coming loose and falling off. Turns out the spark plugs were loose. I know when I installed they were tight. One thing after another so I was just sick of all the issues.

That said, I cleaned the car the other night, jumped the battery and took it for a drive. Got the car back home without issue and stalled it out backing into the garage. Great. Couldn't get it started again as the battery was dead so we pushed it into the garage.

Today, I get into it and the battery has nice charge to start the car. Can't get the darned thing into any gear. Just grinds and then the clutch pedal goes soft.

Check the reservoir and it needs to be cleaned as the fluid is dirty, but very little fluid in it left. Fill it up and pump the clutch. So i get some action after pumping a while and I can get it in gear...no more grinding.

So, where do I start? 70,000 on it...change the master, hose and clutch slave? Is that slave accessible from underneath? I think I've found several people talking here about bleeding the slave. Can I get the parts from Napa or Rockauto and are they worth getting or are these dealer parts?

Thanks Bill, good point on the spark plug. After work today, I put the plug wire back on. It got me off site, but I had to pull over after about 10 miles and had to put it back on. HOT!!!

Drove home...another 10 miles or so and the boot is off again.

I will look at the plug when the motor is cold. I expect that the plug wire would then grip and not let go if I put it back on. Seems to have something to do with the car warming up. IN the morning it takes longer to pop off.

I'm going to get another plug and play with the boot as well. Maybe i can get it to click. Weird!

Hot, humid and 100% humidity off and on at times. Drove the vette in today without the top down. Just too rainy. Otherwise, mornings is the only time to have the top down.

Decadence of course being driving with the top down and the A/C on!!!! That is, when its not coughing up a spark plug boot...the newest enjoyable issue!

Not having fun here. Oh, and I do have those removal tools, just not at work

I planned to take the wire to task yesterday...of course it started raining, but that didn't deter me. The darned boot would barely come off the plug! (Cold motor)

So I squeezed the boot a bit. Its not very long, just a right angle, but the pliers just did not really do a good job as the boot angle gets in the way of the metal piece inside. Anyway, managed it and could not really pull the boot off after putting it back on, yet it rotates and feels loose! Just have real trouble getting it off the plug!

So, this morning, almost at work, car starts acting wonky again...park and open the hood, sure enough, the boot is hanging off the side. Definitely Mallory plug wires. They seem to be fused to the end of the wire though so I can't really push the boot down to get at the metal inside.

Now what...new plug wire and take the motor apart at the front to get it on the distributor?

Is this a tool to close the metal terminal end inside the boot?

http://www.samstagsales.com/images/mt0568-20-01x.jpg

Went out to the car, put the plug back on, drove to a service station for fuel and checked the plug. It had worked itself loose again. That holder is not engaging the plug top. I can press it back on, but it is working itself out.

Tough to get to as well in terms of heat, already burned myself on the manifold. Now I've got another meeting I have to drive to. So, back under the hood, maybe with a wet paper towel and push it back on. This just started so its weird.

...sitting here with ice on my fingers...

Thank you!!

No click heard though I thought that was weird when I put it back on yesterday. I'll take a look following that procedure as referenced.

Basic, because the issue is right there in my face. The plug wire, Mallory wires if I recall, closest to the front of the car, passenger side, has popped off the plug twice now. This is why frustrating...

First time, car ran rough, you could tell something was wrong, but got me home where I checked and put the plug back on.

Now compounding any issue is the fact I work on a DOE facility so security out the ying yang, big deal, squad cars, etc. all for a break down. Special tow trucks with access to the site, etc. Read $$$. (The Y12 issue out in Oak Ridge, TN, break in has all security factors on edge anyway...)

So, this morning, driving on a 55 mph stretch (tightly controlled, 55mph on the nose!), car starts to buck and lose speed, power. Service engine light comes on, security light comes on, no power, pull over. Idle at 900 or so. The warning lights go off and I have power again to an extent. Get it back on the road to avoid tow trucks, security cars, etc. No warning lights, other issues outside of running slightly rough again.

Get to the parking lot ok, no further warning lights, etc. I check that plug wire and sure enough its hanging off again. This after I pushed it on. Do I need to somehow tighten the metal inside the boot or something?? All the other plugswires are on without issue...

Left side, like the original poster I believe...

^
That one took me a second...funny.

Hot and humid. But, yesterday, temp readout on the vette read 101 yet the car was running very nice, not hot at all.

Does make your back sweaty though against the leather seats. Running with the top down and AC on is an interesting combination.

Hawks here are hunkered down waiting out the blazing heat for the humidity of the night

Sorry to raise this issue again, but I'm having the same problem on my lef theadlight. Motor spins for a while after the headlight closes and opens and the headlight will only come up halfway and then feels loose, bouncy like in the holder. I wonder if my "shaft" is stripped as well, I just don't know what shaft is being referenced.

I also have the glass housings as my lights are Cibie and I don't want to switch to inferior lighting.

I'm trying to see some of the pictures but no luck. Is there any help for that. Trying to figure out what is stripped. (This is what a search gets you, more questions )

Ah, thank you. I was wondering about the periods. I did not know that's how it works with "smart" phones (The smiley is for the smart part of the phone statement. It really is news to me. Trying to make sure I'm not taken the wrong way.)

Always learning something new!

I looked up that TJ quote, Marcus, the one you posted above. Jefferson said something vaguely like it, but not as quoted in a variety of postings all over the internet.

I'm not saying it doesn't make sense, it does, but he did not put it that way.

Thanks Bill, enjoyed reading the obit for common sense. It makes sense!!

Seriously, you guys are amazing. I could not make head or tail of that posting.

I'm always trying to learn symptoms and cures on these cars, but that one had me puzzled simply due to the language barrier!

Huh! Why the starter bolts? I drove it couple places today. No issues. Making me real nervous.

That's all I've been dealing with lately. I'm wondering if these old harnesses are showing their age. Though the SAE changed the composition of the insulation in 91 if I recall.

Thank you for the kind words. I'm thinking it's not the VATS. It actually cranks. So it's something going out I think! Well, makes life exciting.

Long delay. I Was getting my Rx7 ready for shipping to new owner. I wanted to move the corvette since I needed to get the car trailer out.

I got in and cranked it to see if the battery had gone flat and it started right up. No issues. So maybe I'm having that I mobilizer issue? Is there a fix?

The car starts up fine now but I'm leery of driving it in case it cuts out again.

Strong crank, nothing wrong with that part of it. I'll pull an "easy" plug, not the one by the firewall and check for spark.

I haven't seen a "check engine" light so pulling codes wasn't really on the radar screeen, but will do.

It did run when I parked it. So when it did not start yesterday morning, that was a surprise. Been raining here too.

I'm wondering if it cut fuel and the sound I associated with the starter was just it kicking out. "Shrug"...don't know enough about these cars yet even though I'm learning all the time.

My comment on the 350 went to this motor as I've had several others that have gone to high mileage with a lot less trouble...actually no trouble.

Its turning over fine now, no wizzing as in the solenoid, but its not starting.

Tommy, I would dread having to do the plugs again as I just did them not 5000 miles ago. Ugh, especially that one on the passenger side against the firewall. Anything but that!

I'm going to change the oil, but how can I have injector failure at this low mileage. What is it with these 350's anyway?

I'm still not sure why the car won't start, but turns over very strong? (Battery in good shape!)

Yep, oil smells of gasoline and it jusr turns over, does not start...

Since I"ve been reading and trying to educate myself, could this be a symptom of the fuel pressure regulator? Car has about 69,000 on it.

Ultra, what is P90X? Some sort of a workout program?

Did not sleep well last night, trying to track down an irritating ground issue on the RX7 which blows a fuse not allowing car to start.

Then get in the Vette to go to work and that won't start, making strange noises. I've already posted a question on the scant information I have. Took Miata to work.

Hope you guys have a good day!

That sound kind of worried me. I was imagining flywheel teeth being sheared off and $$ signs like on a headsup display!

On my 95 LT1.

Get in this morning, crank it over. All of a sudden, while starter engaged, I hear a mechanical clank and the starter cuts out. I thought i let my foot off the clutch so turn key off and try again. Nothing happens.

Try again and the starter spins but like its hitting against something. That goes away and car now just turns over but there is nothing else happening. I do get a strong odor of gasoline now.

Jumped into the Miata and got to work, but I'll have to check this thing tonight. Where do I start? Definite strong odor of that gas. It spins strong but won't start.

Going down the mental checklist, it would seem I have fuel, spark may be an issue...air as well? The starter thing may be a red herring, I don't know where or what that could be or lead to. If the starter somehow screwed up or the solenoid(?) could that cause these problems?

Ok, you guys should go to Wikipedia and check out the LASIK article. Its a good first start.

RK or radial keratonomy was started by the Russians long ago. It does make the small cuts. Not done anymore from what I understand.

Today, PRK is done or LASIK and both are variations on each other. I believe with PRK, they ablate the cornea and then you get to wear a clear lens over it while the cornea heals. That may be an oversimplification.

I had the IntraLASIK done in March where only lasers are used, no mechanical knife as in regular LASIK. My doc was also one of the top recommended practitioners and only worked with the complete laser surgery. Had been doing this since the '70's and taught this surgery.

He determined before surgery that my eyesight would be 20/20 far and that I would need reading glasses for near as opposed to one eye far and one near sighted. So now I wear reading glasses for close up work.

The process is simple, recovery is remarkably fast and two days after my surgery I was released for driving. I drove up to Greenville to get the MINI serviced. No issues. Night time I had the halo effect but that goes away. They'll tell you that. Get the drops for dry eye and use them. Its part of the recovery period.

All in all, I'd worn contacts for 35 years. This is much better and when I'm working in a car in the driveway or int he junkyard, no worries about a contact slipping out!!!

Why oh why do you guys remind me of paying my taxes? I've been putting it off, yech, not that I wouldn't get some sort of hate mail with more serious follow-ons if I don't do them...

Actually, these days, your security clearance depends on paying your taxes or even filing.

We had a high ranking patent attorney over at the contractor's office who did not pay his taxes for several years. Lost his security clearance and consequently his job. Don't know what he's doing right now. Not smart unless he wanted to retire...but he would still have to pay his taxes, fines and penalties...

The new RX7 is scary and the Corvette needs fuel...$3.69 here at Kroger this morning. Miata only took 7 gallons though

I've learned alot from Bill over the time I've been here, but one thing I disagree with is Bill's opinion on the Miata. I'm speaking from owning them for a bit of time...had 4 at one time.

Excellent little cars, great autocrossers, especially set up...drifting...not so much! Besides, putting large tires and wheels on them ruins the handling. The stock sizes are fine. The BBS wheels even better on the NA's.

Thanks also here, Bill. My daughter just got her license. My son went through that up in richmond, VA. Now its her turn and she'll just have turned 16. It will be a good course for her. My son learned much!

Marcus, good to see your daughter did not get hurt. Its always a worry with them on the road and the experience factor.

On another note, I recently picked up a new RX7, came in on the transporter from California. Pretty gone over in terms of rebuilt/built rotary, tranny, rear end. Turbo is a T3/T4 hybrid from what I'm told and I'm learning the systems. I've had rotaries since '99 but this turbo is a monster. Now I've got three I think that's enough for right now, but this one should be fun.

Ha!!! So there is a throttle body!!!

I've got tomorrow off. Will pull some codes, do some cleaning and publish what I find.

It was doing the rumbling again after being started after 15 minutes. Coming from work, hard starting. Three go arounds turn key off then on.

When it was doing its shaking, something was catching it, then couldn't keep up and it would start shaking again. Weird...

I still need to, so have to dig up Bill's explanation of how its done again.

I want to clean that IAC as well. I'm so invested in my Jap stuff and Ford, I feel sheepish about checking, but there's a throttle body to clean, right? I really need to get more acquainted with this car, but it seems I'm just chasing issues instead of doing preventive stuff...I think its getting better.

I never did get into drinking all that much but when I joined the military, we were in an anti-alcohol mode Air Force wide and prosecuted any number of kids with DUI on base or when received off base, they usually were up for some administrative action. As a JAG who prosecuted DUI's, it was certainly something I did not want to be on the wrong side of. Besides, it was a career killer.

As a JAG, its something you could not even consider. It wasn't a big deal for me as the O'Club was never a big draw but a friend of mine got nailed for drunk driving by the German police, received the Article 15 and eventually had to go into the reserves.

I was at someone's house for dinner the other night and they were going pretty good into the champagne and then wine. Its easy to refuse based on my USAF experience now. No issue. They were also partners from a friends law firm, so there was no way I was going to drink anything and risk something embarrassing. Not that those guys didn't like to argue anything anyway!

Beautiful top down weather here as well. Though people are comlaining about allergies and pollen.

I'm getting over seeing my fair share of the medical practioners. Had LASIK last week and promptly cracked a tooth on Monday so had to go in for a crown yesterday. Now I've got those follow up appointments. Never saw so many doctors, just the annual stuff while in the service.

Great suggestions! Thank you!!!

Matt, it sits outside, yes, but it really hasn't been that hot! It will, but not right now. How does that change the equation?

This is getting expensive sounding. That PCM does not look cheap. Same for the ICBM
I'll see if there are any codes, but I have no check engine light. Coil should not be too bad, but what is the recommned brand or factory?

OK, thanks. I replaced the Coil wire when I did the wires at the time I did the water pump. I'll check again.

I know where coil is, but I don't know where PCM or ICM is...always learning...Is one of those the big unit over the battery?

Oh for goodness sake, does it ever stop??? Thanks Andy. What's the PCM? Have not checked for codes at this time...

When completely cold, the car starts without issue. Driving around, not a problem.

If I leave the car and then come back after 5 or 10 minutes, the car will start ok. Again, not much of an issue.

If I leave the car outside at work and come back after 8 or 9 hours, it likes to crank over before it finally starts. Might take several sequences of turning off and cranking again.

Anything over 10 minutes or so and the car was shaking, idling very rough and sounded like knocking. The last time it did this, something came on line and the idle settled in and it idled naturally.

Do these things have an IAC that needs to be cleaned? Do I need to clean the Throttle body? Fuel issue?

Matt, my plan exactly. Except for the part about cutting off the connector. They just put it in the package. Don't need to cut!

Got my parts from Superior Chevrolet today that I ordered on Friday and that Chris had to order from the warehouse.

I had to order a new plug for the Blower Control Module as I broke the locking tabs. I was going to hit you guys up for a tutorial in how to remove the wire from the old plug and insert it into the new plug.

So what came from ACDelco was the correct plug with a wire attached and a butt connector! (No Jokes). Would make the connection easy but I think I'm going to solder it anyway. Wow!!!

You guys are just all out impressive. I just forget about buying cards. Its the bane of my existence.

Brought home handmade cupcakes a lady at work made! That went over well.

That crud going around is bad. Had it last week! Not fun!!

I'm thinking they are about the size of the unit you pictured. Maybe picture 09 just makes it seem larger than the pad. I'm going to have to crawl under there and look when I get off work.

That said, when I use the lift pad at the base hobby shop, does the lift pad then contact those two flanges bridging that gap? I've got to get over to the base to do that.

In picture number 9, I see the two pieces of tape with that recessed area between them.

Does the jack stand sit/contact the car between the pieces of tape in that recessed area?

Or does the car sit on the jack on one of those flanges (doesn't seem right).

Or does the jack stand bridge the recessed area and the car sits on the stand on both of those flanges that the tape is on? I don't think my jack stand pad is wide enough to meet both flanges bridging that recessed gap??

Please post picture. The more information the better. I was dealing with this last week and looking for Andy's PDF.

Is the convertible different than the coupe in this regard? I remember the directions for this guys ZR1 said to put the stands inboard of the seam where you lift the car.

My jack looked like it was bending the crossmember in that first picture as I had it there after getting the car on ramps.

I think we'll definitely have to get him a winter kit together. That dually is great, but if the 6.0 Ford, its trouble. Even the later ones have issues.
My Dodge Dually Megacab diesel is great, but the ancillary systems are garbage!
Also, Ford has a lock on interior appointments.

It was cold here today. But, no humidity!

BTW, not familiar with that thinset on the tile job. Did you check on the John Bridge forum to see what the long term effects are?

That is very funny!!! Not for the money spent on the snowblower though!

I gotta say, living here has been nice. I'm from the midwest, originally, but having been stationed all over, this is better than Virginia.

Hit the nail on the head!! He hates the humidity.

I was thinking Subaru as well. Looking at a couple of them in the junkyards this weekend to see how difficult the motor looks. It seems its a boxer design(?)

I know what you mean about 4x4's and the overexuberance of their drivers.

Has it been mild this year as well? Flowers were blossoming out here.

Good morning, cold but sunny here in South Carolina. Little pond we have froze overnight.

On that note, my son has been accepted to the Univ. of South Dakota. I know some of you guys live near that area of the country. I think he's nuts going to Vermillion(?). Do we need to get him an all wheel or 4 wheel drive? He''s driving a Miata right now and with snows they get along ok but not great.

On that same note, he told me he does not want to go to the Univ. South Carolina branch in Hilton Head as he does not like the warm weather. Ooookay! Wondering about this kid. What can you say to that?

Coming in late, but it was the optispark replacement? I thought the replacements had been upgraded?

By the way, I couldn't log on today as Safari said the page could not be found...all day.