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bam tuning questions
Senior Guru
missouri
250 Posts
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93 vett, 6spd, hot cam, trick flow 185 heads, LT headers, 52mm TB.
I have had two pro's "tune" my car and they get close but not close enough. I am trying to tune it myself. I use cats to make changes to the chip. Here are my problems.
1) WOT is too rich, initial is running in the 10-11's then pulls back to very low 12's. Sometimes there is a hesitiation when floored, after that pulls really hard. I want to lean it out just a little at a time, how do I do that?
2)When using VE master does it make changes to the tune itself or do I have to go back into the tune and do it myself manually?
3)Initial tip in when accelerating (part throtle) is very lean, around 15.8 up into the 16's then pretty quickly settles down to 14.7 under part throttle acceleration, how can I make the initial tip in a little richer.
I have a wide band installed, and I data log with Datamaster.
Thanks for any help.
Posted on: 2013/4/22 13:11
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bogus Re: tuning questions
Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
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I am surprised neither Will or Woodstock have chimed in yet...

Give you a bump!
Posted on: 2013/4/23 17:43
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Education is the best tool to overcome irrational fear. - me

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bam Re: tuning questions
Senior Guru
missouri
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GIPB, thanks I was starting to feel like the lonely Maytag repair man.
Posted on: 2013/4/23 19:27
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djxib Re: tuning questions
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North Georgia
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Quick answers to your questions, will allow you to experiment a little:

1. PE vs RPM allows you to fine tune WOT fueling
2. VE Master creates a new BIN file. Check it in CATS afterwards and you'll probably see some peaks and troughs because the datalog will not have touched all areas of the BIN. Use the new BIN as a guide to where you are running rich/lean
3. Yes - Initial tip in is one of the hardest things to tune. Get the VE tables right first, then (from memory) the best place to start on the AE vs Coolant table which provides general enrichment on part throttle (i.e. the bridge thru to PE).

Hope this helps
Posted on: 2013/4/24 14:54
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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bam Re: tuning questions
Senior Guru
missouri
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Thanks.
I understand 1. PE vs RPM table, ok.
however 2) you lost me on this. Are you sure VE makes a new bin file because the version I have made a new text document that has to be opened with a word processor. The version of cats I have can't open it as far as I know. What are "peaks and troughs"? I presume they are related to rich and lean but how and what do they mean? Is high rich or lean? What I was trying to ask is; How does the new VE table created in the text document by VE Master get into the bin file, do you compare the two and manually make the changes? or am I missing something simple.
Posted on: 2013/4/26 1:45
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djxib Re: tuning questions
Senior Guru
North Georgia
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Quote:

bam wrote:
Thanks.
I understand 1. PE vs RPM table, ok.
however 2) you lost me on this. Are you sure VE makes a new bin file because the version I have made a new text document that has to be opened with a word processor. The version of cats I have can't open it as far as I know. What are "peaks and troughs"? I presume they are related to rich and lean but how and what do they mean? Is high rich or lean? What I was trying to ask is; How does the new VE table created in the text document by VE Master get into the bin file, do you compare the two and manually make the changes? or am I missing something simple.


Hmm (scratches head). The version of VE Master that I use actually takes the old BIN file and creates a new one based on the data log. If your version creates a text file you'll have to take the new values and key them manually into your BIN.

When I say 'peaks and troughs' I was referring to the VE tables once the new values have been plugged in from VE Master. So, if you look at the VE table in graph view, you will see the new values have created mountains (richer) and valleys (leaner) in the picture - these will give you an idea where you need to do some work in smoothing out the table.

Good luck!
Posted on: 2013/4/26 14:19
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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bam Re: tuning questions
Senior Guru
missouri
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Thanks a bunch! Is there any way you could email me a copy of your VEMaster, or send a link where you downloaded it. It's not very easy to find on the internet. It's kind of daunting thinking of manually changing the whole VE table.
Posted on: 2013/4/26 15:20
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Schrade Re: tuning questions
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Quote:

djxib wrote:
Quote:

bam wrote:
Thanks.
I understand 1. PE vs RPM table, ok.
however 2) you lost me on this. Are you sure VE makes a new bin file because the version I have made a new text document that has to be opened with a word processor. The version of cats I have can't open it as far as I know. What are "peaks and troughs"? I presume they are related to rich and lean but how and what do they mean? Is high rich or lean? What I was trying to ask is; How does the new VE table created in the text document by VE Master get into the bin file, do you compare the two and manually make the changes? or am I missing something simple.


Hmm (scratches head). The version of VE Master that I use actually takes the old BIN file and creates a new one based on the data log. If your version creates a text file you'll have to take the new values and key them manually into your BIN.



This is critical OP.

Was the car 'in tune' when the mods were done???

If the 'new BIN' was created with an out of tune engine, you might never get it right.

Mods are fine, BUT YOU NEED BASELINE SPECS integrated into the new BIN, not specs for a degraded tune...

However, if you're lucky, it might be as simple now as just checking static and dynamic fuel pressure, and injector spray quality.
Posted on: 2013/4/26 15:21
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bam Re: tuning questions
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missouri
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here is what VE Master created.

Attach file:


txt 9 6 2012 reduced timing, richer_vem.txt Size: 22.08 KB; Hits: 215
Posted on: 2013/4/26 15:22
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bam Re: tuning questions
Senior Guru
missouri
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Quote:

Blade_1 wrote:
Quote:

djxib wrote:
Quote:

bam wrote:
Thanks.
I understand 1. PE vs RPM table, ok.
however 2) you lost me on this. Are you sure VE makes a new bin file because the version I have made a new text document that has to be opened with a word processor. The version of cats I have can't open it as far as I know. What are "peaks and troughs"? I presume they are related to rich and lean but how and what do they mean? Is high rich or lean? What I was trying to ask is; How does the new VE table created in the text document by VE Master get into the bin file, do you compare the two and manually make the changes? or am I missing something simple.


Hmm (scratches head). The version of VE Master that I use actually takes the old BIN file and creates a new one based on the data log. If your version creates a text file you'll have to take the new values and key them manually into your BIN.



This is critical OP.

Was the car 'in tune' when the mods were done???

If the 'new BIN' was created with an out of tune engine, you might never get it right.

Mods are fine, BUT YOU NEED BASELINE SPECS integrated into the new BIN, not specs for a degraded tune...


"was the car 'in tune' when mods were done" No, after the mods it needed to be tuned, I kinda thought that would be obvious, am I missing something here?

"If the 'new BIN' was created with an out of tune engine..." Why would you create a new BIN with the engine already being in tune, what is the purpose? Maybe you missed something, I am trying to tune my engine for new mods. Maybe I am really missing something here, I must be or I would understand your comments more.

"Mods are fine, BUT YOU NEED BASELINE SPECS ..." By base line do you mean the original stock tune from the factory? (grab some hair, pull some out, this gets pretty frustrating) I have no idea what you are talking about here, could you be a little more specific? Thanks
Posted on: 2013/4/26 15:32
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Schrade Re: tuning questions
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Quote:

bam wrote:
Quote:

Blade_1 wrote:
Quote:

djxib wrote:
Quote:

bam wrote:
Thanks.
I understand 1. PE vs RPM table, ok.
however 2) you lost me on this. Are you sure VE makes a new bin file because the version I have made a new text document that has to be opened with a word processor. The version of cats I have can't open it as far as I know. What are "peaks and troughs"? I presume they are related to rich and lean but how and what do they mean? Is high rich or lean? What I was trying to ask is; How does the new VE table created in the text document by VE Master get into the bin file, do you compare the two and manually make the changes? or am I missing something simple.


Hmm (scratches head). The version of VE Master that I use actually takes the old BIN file and creates a new one based on the data log. If your version creates a text file you'll have to take the new values and key them manually into your BIN.



This is critical OP.

Was the car 'in tune' when the mods were done???

If the 'new BIN' was created with an out of tune engine, you might never get it right.

Mods are fine, BUT YOU NEED BASELINE SPECS integrated into the new BIN, not specs for a degraded tune...


"was the car 'in tune' when mods were done" No, after the mods it needed to be tuned, I kinda thought that would be obvious, am I missing something here?

"If the 'new BIN' was created with an out of tune engine..." Why would you create a new BIN with the engine already being in tune, what is the purpose? Maybe you missed something, I am trying to tune my engine for new mods. Maybe I am really missing something here, I must be or I would understand your comments more.

"Mods are fine, BUT YOU NEED BASELINE SPECS ..." By base line do you mean the original stock tune from the factory? (grab some hair, pull some out, this gets pretty frustrating) I have no idea what you are talking about here, could you be a little more specific? Thanks


If the engine was out of tune BEFORE the mods, then the fuel trim / BLM parameters that the computer had 'learned' were skewed - out of normal.

New parts will NOT fix this, unless one of the new parts JUST HAPPENS TO be a replacement for the broken part. This is the 'Plug n PRAY' tune strategy, and almost NEVER works.

Now, THAT skewed data is integrated into NEW BLM values. And since there's STILL a problem, the new parts NOT ONLY DID NOT SOLVE THEM, BUT POSSIBLY ADDED TO THEM, since you don't know that the NEW PARTS are all in order.

If it was in perfect tune before, with a bad tune NOW, THEN you could say, "There's something wrong with the new parts" (and that IS possible).

If it was in tune before, you could look at IAC stepper count, or injector pulsewidth, for example, and know that they were right. With mods, if all of a sudden they're wrong, guess what parts get the rap? The new parts.

But you don't know what they were before, so it puts you in the dark on diagnostics, since you NOW have MAJOR new parts.

Hope you're starting to get some idea here...

But just in case, since I'm a good teacher, let's consider a food analogy.

You've got the flu - pukin' like a fountain, and startin' to feel better. Then you eat, and :20 minutes later, it's heave ho with the grub that you just ate. You say to yourself, "I don't get it - I just ate a balanced meal, and I puked it up".

You have no clue if it was the bug you had, or if it was tainted meatloaf, bad veggies, Mexican E. coli salad, or a NEW problem you might have, IN ADDITION TO THE FLU.

SO...

Get static fuel pressure, and leakdown time, for starters.
Posted on: 2013/4/26 17:02
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Schrade Re: tuning questions
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These numbers indicate lean mix, not rich, as you said.

I'm going to guess, based on the readings, and you saying 'rich', is that you have low fuel pressure, and maybe a leaking injector too.

This will make poor spray quality, and a bad burn. O2's will pick up UNBURNED HC's, and attempt to lower injector pulsewidth.

The unburned HC's will look like a rich burn at the tailpipe.

The poor air/fuel mix will burn HOT.

Can you post all the other log data?

Do a static FP test, with leakdown time.

Is it loping idle when warm?

Quote:

******** Fuel trim table statistics ********

Cell # recs map range rpm range
min LTerm/avg LTerm/max LTerm (left and right)

0: 58 map: 0 - 35, rpm: 0 - 1800
109/112.466/117

1: 163 map: 0 - 35, rpm: 1800 - 2000
93/102.564/128

2: 69 map: 0 - 35, rpm: 2000 - 2200
98/108.029/125

3: 10 map: 0 - 35, rpm: 2200 - 7000
123/127.5/128

4: 135 map: 35 - 45, rpm: 0 - 1800
104/111.681/128

5: 49 map: 35 - 45, rpm: 1800 - 2000
110/116.918/127

6: 69 map: 35 - 45, rpm: 2000 - 2200
102/109.884/128

7: 11 map: 35 - 45, rpm: 2200 - 7000
126/126.727/127

8: 47 map: 45 - 55, rpm: 0 - 1800
114/122.851/128

9: 4 map: 45 - 55, rpm: 1800 - 2000
128/128/128

10: 0 map: 45 - 55, rpm: 2000 - 2200

11: 2 map: 45 - 55, rpm: 2200 - 7000
128/128/128

12: 17 map: 55 - 104, rpm: 0 - 1800
125/127.588/128

13: 0 map: 55 - 104, rpm: 1800 - 2000

14: 0 map: 55 - 104, rpm: 2000 - 2200

15: 9 map: 55 - 104, rpm: 2200 - 7000
127/127.889/128
Posted on: 2013/4/26 17:31
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bam Re: tuning questions
Senior Guru
missouri
250 Posts
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Quote:

bam wrote:
1) WOT is too rich, initial is running in the 10-11's then pulls back to very low 12's. Sometimes there is a hesitiation when floored, after that pulls really hard. I want to lean it out just a little at a time, how do I do that?
2)When using VE master does it make changes to the tune itself or do I have to go back into the tune and do it myself manually?
3)Initial tip in when accelerating (part throtle) is very lean, around 15.8 up into the 16's then pretty quickly settles down to 14.7 under part throttle acceleration, how can I make the initial tip in a little richer.
I have a wide band installed, and I data log with Datamaster.
Thanks for any help.


Thanks for the reply. To be exact, WOT is rich, Initial tip in on very moderate aceleration is lean, and you are right the car at cruise (idle to 2000 rpm) is slightly lean. Wide band keeps reading at cruise 14.7 to 15.7 it almost never goes toward the rich side of the scale. I have tested fuel pressure in the past but I will check it again later today, it has always been good with very little leak down. Also new injectors from FIC, Bosh 3's at the stock 24lb rating.
Posted on: 2013/4/26 19:20
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bam Re: tuning questions
Senior Guru
missouri
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newest data log, DataMaster
Posted on: 2013/4/26 19:33
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bam Re: tuning questions
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missouri
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somehow the data log won't load as an attachment?? Can I email it to you? Send me a PM with your email and I will send it.
Posted on: 2013/4/26 19:35
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Schrade Re: tuning questions
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Quote:

bam wrote:
somehow the data log won't load as an attachment?? Can I email it to you? Send me a PM with your email and I will send it.


Will do.

I'll see if I can post it when it comes through, if you want; there's a few more folks here who can probably make more of a scan log than I can. Some things WILL stand out pretty much tho'...
Posted on: 2013/4/26 22:31
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bam Re: tuning questions
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missouri
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Thanks a million, yes post it up for all to look over. I appreciate you stickin with me on this one, I have a ton to learn.
Posted on: 2013/4/26 23:24
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Schrade Re: tuning questions
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eMail not in yet there bam...

See also if you can get specs for ALL the hardware you bought too - ESPECIALLY the cam; lift, in+out overlap, duration, etc. Most of the guys here know more cam tech than I do anyway.

Posted on: 2013/4/27 0:06
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Schrade Re: tuning questions
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Need some Guru feedback on bam's cam here:
218 intake, 228 exhaust duration @ .050 .525 lift intake and exhaust with 1.6 rr's

------------------------------------------------

Got the scan data there Thomas; but it's .uni file format, and don't know if it's hexadecimal, or ACSII encoded. Can't open it in Linux (which will do ANYTHING), or in Windows UGH.

Does the scanware allow saving a scan in other formats?

Also try to get not a CONTINUOUS scan, but a single frame shot / preferably in Closed Loop.

If not, see if you can convert it before uploading, described here:
http://forums.introversion.co.uk/upli ... g.php?mode=quote&p=361217

ed.:
File format convertors are trying to convert it to music, since it's a stream of data. Won't work on the back end, so you'll have to convert it front end before uploading...
Posted on: 2013/4/27 16:29
Edited by Blade_1 on 2013/4/27 16:45:20
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Schrade Re: tuning questions
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Any luck on format conversion there Thomas?

Quote:
Also new injectors from FIC, Bosh 3's at the stock 24lb rating.

Jon's injectors are good. Probably not leaking; but FPR diaphragm, if ruptured, can allow fuel to get drawn through the vacuum line - same effect as leaking injectors. Will show in FP leakdown time, or smell of gas in the vac line. THis would also make a lean burn, heavy HC's in the tailpipe (since fuel isn't being atomized), and a lean fuel trim @ lower RPM's, as your scan showed.

Will also foul the cats in short order...



Quote:
******** Fuel trim table statistics ********

Cell # recs map range rpm range
min LTerm/avg LTerm/max LTerm (left and right)

0: 58 map: 0 - 35, rpm: 0 - 1800
109/112.466/117

1: 163 map: 0 - 35, rpm: 1800 - 2000
93/102.564/128

2: 69 map: 0 - 35, rpm: 2000 - 2200
98/108.029/125

3: 10 map: 0 - 35, rpm: 2200 - 7000
123/127.5/128

4: 135 map: 35 - 45, rpm: 0 - 1800
104/111.681/128

5: 49 map: 35 - 45, rpm: 1800 - 2000
110/116.918/127

6: 69 map: 35 - 45, rpm: 2000 - 2200
102/109.884/128

7: 11 map: 35 - 45, rpm: 2200 - 7000
126/126.727/127

8: 47 map: 45 - 55, rpm: 0 - 1800
114/122.851/128

9: 4 map: 45 - 55, rpm: 1800 - 2000
128/128/128

10: 0 map: 45 - 55, rpm: 2000 - 2200

11: 2 map: 45 - 55, rpm: 2200 - 7000
128/128/128

12: 17 map: 55 - 104, rpm: 0 - 1800
125/127.588/128

13: 0 map: 55 - 104, rpm: 1800 - 2000

14: 0 map: 55 - 104, rpm: 2000 - 2200

15: 9 map: 55 - 104, rpm: 2200 - 7000
127/127.889/128


Cells 12-15 show high IAC stepper count, if that's what 'map' translates to - I know someone else can post up here on that...

If it is IAC count, high numbers means:
Quote:
· There is carbon buildup on the IAC pintle, or in the idle air passage restricting air flow

· There is carbon buildup on the throttle blade or throttle body bore

· The throttle stop screw is adjusted incorrectly (throttle resting closed too much)

· There is a mechanical problem with the engine resulting in lower than expected vacuum levels at idle (this will require the IAC to open further so the engine gets the required amount of air to maintain the preset idle speed)


Carbon build-up would come from unburned fuel going back through EGR.
Posted on: 2013/4/28 21:55
Edited by Blade_1 on 2013/4/28 22:15:51
Edited by Blade_1 on 2013/4/28 22:19:27
Edited by Blade_1 on 2013/4/28 22:20:55
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bam Re: tuning questions
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missouri
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Have not tried the conversion, I did try to save the data log in another format but could not find any other way of saving the file in DataMaster, anyone else know how to do this?
I have a rebuilt TB with new IAC, both are super clean, like brand new when I installed them a year ago. The hot cam does have a lope to it, and idle vacuum is around 13 at 800rpm, I think that is pretty normal for that cam. 112 lobe separation. Stock cam is 114 I believe. I don't have cats so no problem with them plugging. I did not check FP today, hopefully tomorrow. It was such a great day today I had to take the car for a nice drive. Can you explain what the fuel trim stats numbers mean, at least the basics, I have no idea what I am looking at. thanks
Posted on: 2013/4/29 3:30
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Schrade Re: tuning questions
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Posted on: 2013/5/1 16:58
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bam Re: tuning questions
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3-5" of snow here in the good ole midwest - yuck!! Here is what I have so far;
1)WOT still too rich. Adjusted the PE% Change to Fuel/Air Ratio vs. RPM table back off stock settings, result; WOT is a little less rich but now initial tip in at very low rpm's at part throttle is going very lean.
2)VEMaster is really messed up, I can now read the bin file it creates with C.A.T.S. but all the new numbers in the VE tables are really wacky, all over the place, really strange. I even tried it on another computer with no better results. I have a feeling this will never be figured out?! frustrating.
3)Initial tip in is worse as 1) above but I am thinking that I will go back into PE vs rpm and increase it below 1200 rpm and cut it back some more above that hopefully that help both, we will see.

One extra note, in C.A.T.S. I have adjusted the VE tables in the full graph mode. I could much more easily see peaks and troughs and smooth them out. The VE table is really smooth now and I can really tell it in cruise, the bucking is finally totally gone. nice!

I still could use some help here, any knowing comments appreciated.

Plus checked plugs yesterday engine is not running major lean or rich. All plugs a nice clean, tan color.
Posted on: 2013/5/3 14:27
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djxib Re: tuning questions
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Quote:

bam wrote:
3-5" of snow here in the good ole midwest - yuck!! Here is what I have so far;
1)WOT still too rich. Adjusted the PE% Change to Fuel/Air Ratio vs. RPM table back off stock settings, result; WOT is a little less rich but now initial tip in at very low rpm's at part throttle is going very lean.
2)VEMaster is really messed up, I can now read the bin file it creates with C.A.T.S. but all the new numbers in the VE tables are really wacky, all over the place, really strange. I even tried it on another computer with no better results. I have a feeling this will never be figured out?! frustrating.
3)Initial tip in is worse as 1) above but I am thinking that I will go back into PE vs rpm and increase it below 1200 rpm and cut it back some more above that hopefully that help both, we will see.

One extra note, in C.A.T.S. I have adjusted the VE tables in the full graph mode. I could much more easily see peaks and troughs and smooth them out. The VE table is really smooth now and I can really tell it in cruise, the bucking is finally totally gone. nice!

I still could use some help here, any knowing comments appreciated.

Plus checked plugs yesterday engine is not running major lean or rich. All plugs a nice clean, tan color.


Glad you're making progress! I recommend that you dont mess with PE for your low RPM tip-in issue (unless PE is set to come in at 30% throttle, you should check that).

I suspect that as you've cleaned up the VE table it has highlighted an Accel Enrich problem that was maybe being masked by a poor VE before. You can try AE vs Coolant (which is kind of a global modifier on AE) to see if it improves tip-in - you can be fairly aggressive on this table (i.e. multiply the existing number by 1.3) to see if it helps or hinders. AE is very hard to finely tune - I am going to be trying to get mine correct soon and I have bought an Ostrich for real time updates and I will be using dyno time so I can do hundreds of tests under load.

Good luck!
Posted on: 2013/5/3 15:37
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Andy

1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4

Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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bam Re: tuning questions
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I really appreciate the comments, feedback here, otherwise one feels lost in the woods!!

I will try your suggestion on the PE, I was going to change it but for now I will leave it alone and do another data log first.

One question I have is; why the two 02 sensors? My 08 Grand Prix only has one located back of where the two manifolds join into one. The timing, map readings, temp readings are all the same for both banks of the engine,if so then why change the fueling. I can still see the split BLM's (although I have not logged since smoothing the VE tables, they may have improved but I doubt it) I am thinking this is because of the hot cam (112 lobe separation) and the LT1 intake short runners?? If I am right the problem is enhanced by having 2 02 sensors which are always trying to compensate for the reversion in the intake and constantly fighting against themselves. Andy any thoughts, have you been able to eliminate or improve on the split BLM issue with these motors?
Posted on: 2013/5/4 14:57
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djxib Re: tuning questions
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Quote:

bam wrote:
I really appreciate the comments, feedback here, otherwise one feels lost in the woods!!

I will try your suggestion on the PE, I was going to change it but for now I will leave it alone and do another data log first.

One question I have is; why the two 02 sensors? My 08 Grand Prix only has one located back of where the two manifolds join into one. The timing, map readings, temp readings are all the same for both banks of the engine,if so then why change the fueling. I can still see the split BLM's (although I have not logged since smoothing the VE tables, they may have improved but I doubt it) I am thinking this is because of the hot cam (112 lobe separation) and the LT1 intake short runners?? If I am right the problem is enhanced by having 2 02 sensors which are always trying to compensate for the reversion in the intake and constantly fighting against themselves. Andy any thoughts, have you been able to eliminate or improve on the split BLM issue with these motors?


Ahh - split BLMs. The curse of LT1 hot-rodders everywhere.

Firstly - 2 x O2 sensors allows for more fine tuning of the feedback to the ECM. In batch fire systems like 92 and 93 vettes it can adjust for general imbalance per bank. However it really comes useful for individual cylinder trims in 94 (95?) and later cars, - I'm told that the O2's are fast enough to allow the ECM to trim fuel per cylinder.

Split BLM's seem to have a lot of theories - many people have had success by fiddling with the VE table, IAC ports, throttle adjustment screw.. or even finding imbalances in the per-cylinder idle holes deep within the intake. I run my car in open loop all the time - I have a wideband gauge hooked up so I can see AFR, and it completely fixed the 'cam surge'. Not sure if I have any advice for you except that I chased my split BLMs on and off for 6 years before going open loop.


Posted on: 2013/5/6 12:12
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Andy

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bam Re: tuning questions
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You run in open loop so that means you never use your 02's right? Was the reason for doing this the supercharger? Or something else? Can you give me a brief idea of how this works? I am thinking that the split BLM's what ever the cause (unless it is vacuum leak, exhaust leak, which I am sure mine is not, I've checked this out really well several times) just makes no sense, there is no hot rodding reason (maybe for fuel mileage or emissions)to have one bank of the engine rich and the other lean all the time. I am thinking of running just one 02 and running it to both banks in the computer and then tune that side with my wide band. That will eliminate split BLM's, any thoughts? A guy with 6 years of working on this stuff, what you have learned is invaluable, thanks for the help.
Posted on: 2013/5/8 12:57
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djxib Re: tuning questions
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bam wrote:
You run in open loop so that means you never use your 02's right? Was the reason for doing this the supercharger? Or something else? Can you give me a brief idea of how this works? I am thinking that the split BLM's what ever the cause (unless it is vacuum leak, exhaust leak, which I am sure mine is not, I've checked this out really well several times) just makes no sense, there is no hot rodding reason (maybe for fuel mileage or emissions)to have one bank of the engine rich and the other lean all the time. I am thinking of running just one 02 and running it to both banks in the computer and then tune that side with my wide band. That will eliminate split BLM's, any thoughts? A guy with 6 years of working on this stuff, what you have learned is invaluable, thanks for the help.


The fact that it took me 6 years before giving up should tell you I'm not very good at this stuff :-)

Actually the reason I eventually went open loop was because I was struggling to get the idle right after rebuilding the motor and upgrading from an S-trim to a YSi supercharger. I just couldnt get the idle right so I disabled block learn... and in conjunction with a permanently installed wideband things became much easier. (For giggles you can see my car idling here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zy49rCeDWDA&feature=youtu.be)

I'm not sure I would recommend going with one O2 sensor - but I would like others to chime in here..





Posted on: 2013/5/8 15:31
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Andy

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Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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bam Re: tuning questions
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Nice car!! Green like mine and nitto tires, same as me. You car idles really smooth, I presume you have a cam in it? My whole car shakes when it idles, however I have almost totally eliminated the bucking, it is gone above 1000rpm but if you try to actually drive anywhere below that it bucks still. I do know that some drill out the idle circuit hole in the TB, I may try that though I know it is drill a little see if it helps then open it up a little more, just a little at a time so you don't go too big. I am going to try switching the 02's and then the injectors to opposite banks from where they are now, maybe that will tell me something, maybe not. At least I will know if it the split BLM's are related to those two items or not. When I rebuilt my motor I didn't have the intake boiled out, should have now in retrospect. It was really super dirty inside from the EGR, just got in a hurry to get my motor back together and drive it.
Your wide band has only one 02 right? How do you know then if the other side running? Do you run cats and headers?
Posted on: 2013/5/8 17:10
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djxib Re: tuning questions
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Yep - my car has a cam - its 236/242 with .6" lift, headers and a 3" exhaust with 'H' pipe. I have a heated O2 in the passenger side and the wideband O2 in the drivers side. I have installed a switch that allows me to hijack the AC pressure signal with the O2 wideband output; this allows me to monitor AFR using Data Master.

Some people have had success with the TB throttle stop screw as a test for split BLMs - where you screw it in and out while watching IAC counts and the BLM splits... and choose an optimum position for the screw.. maybe you should try that before drilling out the TB.

One other thing - its easy to confuse bucking with cam surge. For me the cam surge was only evident at very light throttle under about 2000 RPM, whereas bucking was a huge hole at throttle tip-in (i.e. pulling away from a light)that is a result of too little AE.



Posted on: 2013/5/8 23:04
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Andy

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Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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bam Re: tuning questions
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That's a healthy cam for a 350 (or is it a 383?). I would really like to have my wide band log with data master, could you give me more detail about the AC pressure switch, any place I could read up on how to do this, you wide band looks like mine - inovate?
I have split BLM's all through the rpm/KPa bands, so if I want to correct VE tables by dividing the BLM recorded with 128 then use that as a multiplier which BLM do I use since they are split, or do I simply take the average of the two and use that? Say one is 140 the other 120 do I use 130 then?
As for bucking, I call that steady cruise in lower rpm's (1000-1900 where you can't cruise w/o the car "bucking" like a mule. But even very slight acceleration of deceleration will immediately stop it. I have no hesitation when pulling away from a light either with WOT or part throttle. I think what you call cam surge is what I call bucking, it's exactly what I have below 1000 rpm which is really not a problem, the only time I drive that slow in first gear is pulling up the driveway.
My throttle stop screw allows the blades to be completely closed, I have heard you want all the idle air to come thru the IAC, right?
Posted on: 2013/5/9 3:20
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djxib Re: tuning questions
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bam wrote:
That's a healthy cam for a 350 (or is it a 383?). I would really like to have my wide band log with data master, could you give me more detail about the AC pressure switch, any place I could read up on how to do this, you wide band looks like mine - inovate?
I have split BLM's all through the rpm/KPa bands, so if I want to correct VE tables by dividing the BLM recorded with 128 then use that as a multiplier which BLM do I use since they are split, or do I simply take the average of the two and use that? Say one is 140 the other 120 do I use 130 then?
As for bucking, I call that steady cruise in lower rpm's (1000-1900 where you can't cruise w/o the car "bucking" like a mule. But even very slight acceleration of deceleration will immediately stop it. I have no hesitation when pulling away from a light either with WOT or part throttle. I think what you call cam surge is what I call bucking, it's exactly what I have below 1000 rpm which is really not a problem, the only time I drive that slow in first gear is pulling up the driveway.
My throttle stop screw allows the blades to be completely closed, I have heard you want all the idle air to come thru the IAC, right?


Yes - fully built/forged 383.

For the A/C pressure signal approach - start here:

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/compu ... aster-%96-writeup-535603/

You'll need to look at the pinouts on your ECM to see what signal to switch.

OK so you have the classic cam surge associated with split BLMs. The problem with trying to average the BLMs across the split is that you'll end up in a less than ideal situation, but you could argue its not ideal anyway. Your next step will depend on what you want to do with the car.. let me give you a scenario:

You're staging at the drag strip and the BLMS are split - the ECM is pulling fuel one side and adding fuel on the other side. You hit WOT and the ECM will use the PE tables 'as-is' on the side it thinks is rich, but will add fuel to the PE values on the side it thinks is lean. This means that you potentially run rich down the 1/4 and post a slower time. Therefore a drag racer 'might' consider adjusting the VE table in the areas with worse split BLMs to be rich overall (i.e. therefore the ECM is pulling fuel both sides at idle and the PE tables are always used as-is). This makes the 1/4 performance more predictable.

Ultimately the choice is yours, I dont have a good recommendation for you other than:

1. Triple check everything and try all the tricks that other people have tried with the TB
2. or...Consider a band-aid with the VE table to 'protect' PE
3. or... Go open-loop

Like I say, I'm no expert in this so it would be good for some more opinions!
Posted on: 2013/5/10 17:43
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Andy

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Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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bam Re: tuning questions
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Ok one last question; when you went open loop did you do it so you could get away from the sthometric A/F ration of 14.7 and run you car a little richer? Or was it something else too?
Posted on: 2013/5/13 3:02
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djxib Re: tuning questions
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bam wrote:
Ok one last question; when you went open loop did you do it so you could get away from the sthometric A/F ration of 14.7 and run you car a little richer? Or was it something else too?


Great question. I did it initially so I could get a true read on the AFR at idle and part throttle cruise (i.e. without the ECM screwing with BLMs). However, when I started testing I realized that the driveability was so much better so I decided to keep it permanent.
Posted on: 2013/5/13 15:42
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Andy

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Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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bam Re: tuning questions
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djxib wrote:


Great question. I did it initially so I could get a true read on the AFR at idle and part throttle cruise (i.e. without the ECM screwing with BLMs). However, when I started testing I realized that the driveability was so much better so I decided to keep it permanent.

Do you mean the BLM's were all over the place so you could not get a clear reading on actual A/F as a basis to start changing the VE table?
How did you set the prom to stay in OL move the temp up where CL kicks in so that the 02's would never come on?
Your wide band 02 is in only one side right? Or do you have two wide band 02's one in each bank of the exhaust, if not then how do you tune the "other" side? Or do you just figure it's not really a problem having one fueling for both banks?
How exactly do you tune your car in constant OL? Do you take the readings of your wide band combined with rpm, KPa data from data master and use that to adjust for lean/rich conditions? How do you know how much to adjust the VE numbers if your data comes from the WB 02?
Posted on: 2013/5/15 16:14
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djxib Re: tuning questions
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bam wrote:
Quote:

djxib wrote:


Great question. I did it initially so I could get a true read on the AFR at idle and part throttle cruise (i.e. without the ECM screwing with BLMs). However, when I started testing I realized that the driveability was so much better so I decided to keep it permanent.

Do you mean the BLM's were all over the place so you could not get a clear reading on actual A/F as a basis to start changing the VE table?
How did you set the prom to stay in OL move the temp up where CL kicks in so that the 02's would never come on?
Your wide band 02 is in only one side right? Or do you have two wide band 02's one in each bank of the exhaust, if not then how do you tune the "other" side? Or do you just figure it's not really a problem having one fueling for both banks?
How exactly do you tune your car in constant OL? Do you take the readings of your wide band combined with rpm, KPa data from data master and use that to adjust for lean/rich conditions? How do you know how much to adjust the VE numbers if your data comes from the WB 02?


Great Questions.

From memory (I'd have to check in the tune) I simply changed the block learn enable threshold to a coolant temperature of 300 degrees or something - so it never gets enabled. I might be getting the terms wrong I can check on my tuning laptop at the weekend.

WBO2 only on one side. I assumed it would be fine for initial tuning, I may add another in the future. Even with Block Learn disabled you will still see the millivolt output from the other O2 so you can crudely correlate what the WBO2 is saying and what the stock O2 sensor is saying. (For the stock sensor it's a little inaccurate but pegged above 900mv is definitely rich, pegged close to 100mv is definitely lean - you can draw your own conclusions).

In terms of adjustment of the VE tables (or % fueling) you still use RPM/KPa in the log. If you are datalogging the wideband you need to work out the percentages. So for example if you see 10:1 on the wideband you have 1 part fuel for 10 parts air. You need to get to 14.7:1 (1 part fuel for 14.7 parts air). Fractional math needed which isnt my strong point so I built a spreadsheet for it. If you are not datalogging the wideband just use the stock O2 millivolts as your guide. Not an exact science but you'll feel it (and smell it) if you are on the wrong track.

Hope this helps!


Posted on: 2013/5/15 16:45
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Andy

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Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs...
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djxib Re: tuning questions
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One other thing - 14.7:1 is good for cruise but you'll want richer than that (I'm told about 12:1) for acceleration events.
Posted on: 2013/5/15 16:47
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bam Re: tuning questions
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On the initial hit of WOT I am running 11's on the wide band then it backs off to low 12's, should be ok there.
Posted on: 2013/5/17 1:54
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djxib Re: tuning questions
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bam wrote:
On the initial hit of WOT I am running 11's on the wide band then it backs off to low 12's, should be ok there.


:-)
Posted on: 2013/5/17 15:31
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