Back in December I had the flow down problem from a defective injector on the #6 cylinder that caused the engine to lock. The mechanic got it to break free. We replaced 4 injectors, wires, plugs cap and rotor. I've only put about 500 miles on the engine since I got it back from the shop. Under load the engine works fine but at idle the engine slows like it's misfiring and you can see the voltmeter dip from 3/4 position to 1/2, 3/4 to 1/2 like it must be binding a little on the 6th cylinder wall. The fuel at the time of the injector failure washed all the lubricants off the cylinder wall and the ring. The engine is a 383 with about 8000 miles on the engine. Should I just run it and hope it loosens up, drive it till she dies or do the engine gurus have any words of wisdom for a brother in need.

I would NOT keep driving it until checking further. Erratic idle is probably not a problem with one cylinder, but if it is the damage could ruin your engine. Pull the oil filter and cut it open, look for any sign of metal particles. Let us know what you find (hopefully nothing).

Well, I for one always like to start off simple.
My approach would be to take out all spark plugs and to turn it over by hand. If there is a lot of drag on cylinder #6 a reason to look more into it, otherwise it's just something new .

It's in the shop and they're leaning toward a charging problem. I'll let you know the results later today.

a hydrolocked motor isn't that hard to "free". All you do is remove the plugs and let the fluid out! I did that when my Accel AFPR crapped out on me a few years back.

I had 2 cylinders full of fuel, plus, one crankcase full... at least 2 gallons in the crankcase.

It's been 3 years and ~20k miles and no problems. I also squirted motor oil into each cylinder before I restarted.

Seomthing to think about.

I would say the alternator is more your problem. If not, a bad plug or wire. I can't imagine #6 cylinder is "dragging." That sounds like crap to me.

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It isn't "hydrolocked". He has been driving it.

[quote]
Tommy T-Bone wrote:
I've only put about 500 miles on the engine since I got it back from the shop.[/QUOTE]



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Tommy T-Bone wrote:
I had an injector failure back in December that washed down and bound the #6 cylinder and loaded up the oil pan with gas.

Now, It starts fine, it runs fine under a load but stumbles at idle and at coasting speeds. You can see the voltmeter drop from 2/3 to 1/2, 2/3 to 1/2 as it sits at idle or coasting. It's as if cylinder 6 is running tight.[/QUOTE]
How do your think a cylinder binding (seizing?) up and maybe still running tight, relates to a stumble at idle and alternator output? I don't get the connection. Does the engine seem to suffer any symptoms related to cylinder wall or piston ring damage? Is it using a lot more oil since the event?

RACE ON!!!

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No oil issues. I think I just jumped to a wrong conclusion.
The exhaust manifold kept frying the # 6 wire until we resolved the issue with a metal jacket covered Oldsmobile plug cap. I know what a miss feels like and it didn't feel that way. It wasn't a consistant miss anyway. More like the engine would stumble and the volt gauge would jump. It has a new tensioner on it so it doesn't appear to be the belt binding up. Just another crazy day for me. No worries. The culprit will be found. I'll pass along the findings.

Thanks for your help and input. I always jump to something more severe than what it usually is. It turned out to be the alternator and an intermittent miss on #5 due to a burned through plug wire cap. There is a new set of Bosch plug wires on there. Their proximity to the exhaust manifold is for some reason burning through them and causing the arch. I'm going to switch out that wire in the morning and all should be well again till the next disaster I over analize.

Glad you found the problem - one more thing to keep in mind ...