bogus wrote:
nope... not really.

I did it on the windshield. Was more annoying than hard.

Take the top off, that's the best bet. Use some wide - 2" - painters tape to cover the glass, then cover the glass with paper.

Using some cleaner and a Scotch-Brite pad to clean off the goo. Then hit with some paint prep cleaner. Dry off, prime, set, color. I would use satin or semi-gloss black. Rattle cans dry very quickly, so debris isn't that much of a concern. I recommend a sunny view, it will warm the metal and allow the paint to set faster. I also used engine paint. Much stronger than regular paint.

And it is well worth doing right.

istter1 wrote:
Thanks Bill. When I get back from the Beach Sunday I will give it a shot. The only thing I don't have right now is the paint. There has to be someone here in Pismo Beach that carries it.

Steve

BillH wrote:
Quote:

istter1 wrote:
Thanks Bill. When I get back from the Beach Sunday I will give it a shot. The only thing I don't have right now is the paint. There has to be someone here in Pismo Beach that carries it.

Steve

http://sem.ws/Suppliers2.asp?state=CA&p=1

bogus wrote:
Or use it outside?

bogus wrote:
I wonder if its even legal in SoCal... we have such tight laws about that stuff here.

BillH wrote:
Quote:

bogus wrote:
I wonder if its even legal in SoCal... we have such tight laws about that stuff here.

Well they do sell SEM in Bakersfield, no idea if it's only Lo Voc or whatever.

BillH wrote:
Quote:

bogus wrote:
I wonder if its even legal in SoCal... we have such tight laws about that stuff here.

Well they do sell SEM in Bakersfield, no idea if it's only Lo Voc or whatever.

BillH wrote:
Yea, at least 70* below that = runs in the paint.
Make sure the paint is warm too. If the can feels cool/cold, stick it in the sink in wamn water. Wipe the can off, give it a couple of shakes, if the can feels the same temp as your hand, it's good.

Fog on the first coat.

istter1 wrote:
Quote:

BillH wrote:
Yea, at least 70* below that = runs in the paint.
Make sure the paint is warm too. If the can feels cool/cold, stick it in the sink in wamn water. Wipe the can off, give it a couple of shakes, if the can feels the same temp as your hand, it's good.

Fog on the first coat.

May reach 65 this weekend The Bakersfiels story.

You can't touch up satin black easily cause there's 10+ shades of satin black (and I have most of em in the shop .

I'll deviate a bit from what Andy said (but his way works too).

1. Wash the molding with a heavy concentrate of Dawn & water. This removes any wax.

2. Scotchbrite will work OK but if there's paint missing in a larger area (like a stone chip) the edges will show up when you paint. These should be "feather edged" with 600 paper done wet, light pressure on the paper.
Wash again with dawn & water.

2. Use paint prep (automotive) one wet rag followed up immediately with a dry rag.

3. You can warm up the molding in the sun but don't get it too hot or the paint will dry too fast. If it feels hot to your fingers, it's too hot.
Now, wipe off the fingerprints where you touched it with paint prep.

4. I have a boatload of "painters blue tape" in the shop, I NEVER use it for painting the edges leak like a mofo.
Walmart just started carrying 3m green automotive masking tape in the auto section, it has a crisp edge and doesn't leak.

5. The best paint is SEM Trim Black, no primer required and is very close to OEM.

istter1 wrote:
I used an old bed sheet over the back half. No probles spotter yet. Only problem or mistake I made was I bought too much paint. Two cans. I will find a use for it. There were no leaks from the grean tape great advice.

Steve
.

BillH wrote:
OH, I C.

Well, the extra can is too hard to sell because of shipping.

You can never have enough black rattle cans in the garage. I have 7 or 8 of varying shades.

You could always paint your wroght iron around the house.