Contact Van Steel. They have way better customer service than VBP.

The PDF file for Scott

Attach file:

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C4 Corvette Window Guides.pdf Size: 295.85 KB; Hits: 908

First I would like to say thank you to Robert Ibarra(VetteUSA). Five years ago he started a thread
with a DIY instructions on how ti replace our infamous window guides.

[url]http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-tech-performance/1721996-the-official-c4-corvette-window-alignment-write-up-pdf.html[/url]

Back in 2006 I was driving from Graceland to the NCM, and suddenly both windows made a weird noise.
I think it was the high winds in Kentucky that broke the window guides. The windows always worked, and
I got used to work around it. In 2007 Robert started his thread, posted a PDF file, and I was lucky enough
to save it.

Last year road trip made the windows worse, and finally I bought the guides. Finally today the new guides
are now installed.

I started with the drivers door. removed the panel and all the BS that comes with it.







You can see it is broken in half allowing the window to dance all over the space.





I removed the whole aluminum panel, it made it easier and faster to complete the task. This is the door handle
snap, and it was very friendly.





Special tool



The good and the bad.





Replaced all nylon fasteners. The old ones were like the rest of the C4 plastic; cracked and unserviceable.





Window no longer hits the pillar.



Passenger side.



This one was totally destroyed.



I had to use Robert's trick on the passenger side.









The PDF is no longer available on-line, but I will attach it to this thread for you guys to save it. Trust me, this is gold.

I considered new seats, drank the kool-aid, and right before I was about to place the
order. I wondered how black seats would look with the light gray interiors. Betty Boop
had black floor mats, and they looked alright. The light gray seats wee old, but in good
condition. The Ghost's seats are black, and they look great! Got them ordered last
week, and arrived yesterday.

I started the installation while South Park was in the air. It was great I was LMAO.



















Al Knoch makes great seat, but for $1,000 [B]I expec[/B]t a flaw-free product. The anchors are f*ucking
backwards on both cushions.



I think the black seats with light gray looks awesome. I also bought a second weather tech for Betty Boop's
cargo space.

The radio came in on Thursday. This replaces the receiver.



A regular antenna is needed for the new radio.



An adapter is needed to connect the Vette's OEM antenna cable to the new cable.



Disconnected cable from receiver.



Connected adapter.



All cables or connections go thru and under the middle carpet.



Don't let it scare you.



Unplug all old connections from the receiver, and make new connections





New radios rear. See that small hole?



need old bose's rear guide.



This needs to be used on the new radio
.












The radio fascia needs to be trimmed. I over trimmed it, it may not looks bad, but
I'm too picky, and ordered a new one today.





View



Re-installed the rear compartment tray, and velcro the carpet back into place.



Reinstalled the center console frame, power seats controller, connections, and connected
a tri 12V outlet to the auxiliary power cable.

I started this project with the 12V outlet and it evolved into many other things I have
been letting them slide.

The goal here is to replace the Bose (what a great "radio") with Corvette Central's Pioneer
direct plug like the one I already have in The Ghost. To remove the Bose is easy, but the
new radio comes with multiple connection which travel from the console to the receiver in
the jack box. The cables must be placed under all the plastic and carpet between the
seats and cargo area.



Crud from the rails





The infamous hidden screw.



Remove side skirts



Before the center console is completely remove the power seat controls must be
disconnected. The cables run from the control thru the carpet and underneath the seats.







Lazy GM worker did not installed the power cables properly :D



Realized there is another/extra set of power cables available.



Power Seat Connectors





Cassettes are long gone:seasix:



View from the rear



The emergency handle was full of drirt, junk, hairs and rust.



Did the best I could



Back on the sill



A quick carpet cleanup



Realized it was a great time to finally fix the high-beam lever actuator. It broke back in
2007. Remove the 4-bolts from the rear and remove the airbag.



The horn buttons worked, but they were cracked. Luckily, I bought the horn set for
The Ghost. His left horn buttong has been down for ever, and now Betty Boop will use it.





Remove wheel



Remove clip



The infamous C-Clip





I got help from John[I] "Gear Jammer"[/I]:seasix:

To replace that POS plastic lever actuator was not easy. Had to disconnect all wires from
underneath, loose the steering column and pull the cables for the air-bag plate, horn
connector, and signal lights connector would come out.







This is how it looked once I realized what to order and fixed the high-beam rod. It was out of
place. I have no idea how that thing got inside the steering skeleton.



This is what actually broke. Another excellent piece of C4 plastic which pushes a long steel rod into a switch.







To install it it had to be packed with grease for it not to move and after five attempts it worked out.



You may think it could be slide, but there is a tab that goes into the actuator from the side cover.



I got it all back, had to crawl upside down and reconnect all wires, re-insert the plastic
slide, and reconnect the air-bag yellow cable.



Being a midget has it's advantages.

Try Summit Racing

I would wait for warmer weather. I let it seat for an hour after the third coat.

I would say that masking all around is the only way and it was the way I did mine.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Interior/CELT4190.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Interior/CELT4191.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Interior/CELT4212.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Interior/CELT4213.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Interior/CELT4214.jpg[/IMG]

I use Mobil 1 engine oil on all my vehicles but, currently I changed from TWS Castrol (ZF Doc recommended) to Amsoil Synchromesh in my Manual transmission.

Im very satisfied with the results, it has smoother and easier shifts. I guess the TWS is too thick for it.

I had a new Duynac and no codes. Your diagnosis is exactly what I had. I wish I had the old OEM opti for you to have, I threw it away.

I assume this is the digital gauge.

Is this only happening in the morning? How cold is it outside?

The word "LO" will show on the orange LED display if the oil and coolant temperatures are below 32*F

At 31*F weather an running a 177*F I would say it is normal. I run 175-180 in the Summer but I have Dewitts and 160 stat.

Quote:

I had that issue when I bought the Dynacrap. I replaced it with the MSD and all issues disappear. I love to bash their product every time I read that word anywhere.

Dynacrap=Crap-Crap-Crap

96 dont have the plate, they put the oil info on the oil cap.

very nice

Quote:

Oh God NO, I will not pay $1K for that. It is true, all that cheap 16-28 year old plastic breaks if you look at it wrong.

Steve,

If I knew you could have tag along or drive Betty Boop with us on the Bomber Run yesterday. I just read this one now.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/Bomber%20Run/9-24-2011/DSC07517.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/Bomber%20Run/9-24-2011/DSC07519.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/Bomber%20Run/9-24-2011/DSC07521.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/Bomber%20Run/9-24-2011/DSC07527.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/Bomber%20Run/9-24-2011/DSC07531.jpg[/IMG]

Quote:

I wonder how much it would be at the dealer. I bet it is pass the $500 mark plus parts.

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agree, I used few of those and had no issues. They sell all over the place.

I removed mine with a 15mm twice with no issues. I wonder why a 15mm is not working for you.

FYI, you can find those rubber gaskets at the dealer

My builder recommended me to break the LT4 with regular oil and to change the filter only. I did the 20 minutes, 500 miles, 1,000 miles and a full oil change to Mobil 1 at 3,000 miles.

The first filter was cut it open and yes, it was full of metal shavings.

The LT4 FSM calls for 30 lbs-ft.

For my 3.91 build up, the builder recommended me to use Lucas 85/140.

Quote:

Its the age, I bet its not coming off its breaking apart. They sell those and are not difficult to replace.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Interior/CELT4194.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Interior/CELT4195.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Interior/CELT4196.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Interior/CELT4197.jpg[/IMG]

Quote:

I assume this is the leather boot.

Remove the shifter knob, pry the button out, remove C clip.

I dont know you year but for the 92-96 Vettes, there are few screws to remove the center console.

Two are in the center/glove compartment, one underneath the ashtray and the most lovely one you have to reach it with an extension thru the right side of the ashtray lid. Be careful with the hatchback release cables.

The leather boot is held by four phillip screws and a metal frame.

nice video Brian

Today I drove thru AK and stopped
by the Clinton's Presidential Center.

It was a good experience, the place is not small and it's not huge. It was perfect never
got bored and enough to walk out.



























I wonder who did I thought at the moment I snapped this one...





























































This was parked outside but, I never saw Flavor Flav inside the center.



I know you wonder if there was a picture of Lewinsky but, her name was no-where to be found there.

YouTube - ‪Citizen Butthead‬‏

***Edited the url and img tags. This was created under the old software and the new software has issues with them capitalized. - bogus

Here it is, forgot to post the end of this nightmare.


Last week almost immediately after I posted my comments on their facebook page they gave Midas the green light to replace my Magnaflow mufflers.

Today I took Betty Boop and they installed the new mufflers.

:leaving::leaving::leaving:

The same crap. It will also fail within three years.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Exhaust/Replacement.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Exhaust/Replacement1.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Exhaust/Replacement2.jpg[/IMG]

Magnaflow Failed

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Exhaust/Replacement3.jpg[/IMG]

This picture is dedicated for those who are thinking about this product.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Exhaust/Replacement4.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Exhaust/Replacement5.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Exhaust/Replacement6.jpg[/IMG]

New coat of paint...nice

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Exhaust/Replacement7.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Exhaust/Replacement8.jpg[/IMG]

Yes, they warrantied the product but, the anger, the time, the money I spent with the temporary bracket and the labor Midas charged me to replaced this POS is just not worth the savings. The muffler's bracket is weak and it holds the weight from the muffler to the resonator.

Thats good enough for me. Thanks

Anyone with any type of experience with the OBX exhaust system for 92-96 Vettes?

It looks like the Corsa and it is stainless steel.

Quote:

I agree but,

-I was technically stranded

-It was a Saturday

-Rapid City, South Dakota

-I was 2,000+ miles away from home

Quote:

Maybe, but the noise started on Montana. Two days later

I purchased a set of Magnaflow Mufflers 15623 back in May 2008. I bought the thru an authorized Muffler Shop-Magnaflow Dealer/Distributor and they did the installation.

Lets go forward to April 2009 when I bought the Magnaflow Cat-Back Performance Exhaust System. The same shop sold me and installed the system. Not even a year later, the muffler's hanger bracket which is welded to the muffler came loose and ripped the muffler. The shop honored Magnaflow warranty and welded back for me.

[URL="http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Exhaust/MagnaflowPerformanceExgaustinmyotherCorvetteTheBracketalreadybrokeayearagoandfixedbythemufflershop.jpg"]I took this picture of the weld today.[/URL] It is in good shape taken into consideration it was not weld with a TIG.

This is what I got going with Magnaflow today. I contacted Magnaflow because the bracket got to have a design flaw. The muffler sheet metal is very thin, thinner than you think and Betty Boop's muffler's hanger bracket were ripped while I was driving towards Mt. Rushmore.

While I was driving thru Montana, I started to hear a clunk noise coming from the center of the Vette everytime I would cross over a bridge or overpass. I stopped and what was holding the exhaust system was the differential's brackets/springs. It was already bent and bouncing all over the place. It was Friday afternoon and needless to say I was driving thru Montana about 40 miles from Wyoming.

I arrived to Keystone around 7:00PM and my GPS had listed two places in Rapid City. First thing on Saturday I drove there to get it fixed. The first shop was booked, Midas look at it and told me they could not fix it because they needed the OEM brackets (fail). The showed me their Midas rubber hanger and told me they could not do it. I was the one that gave them the idea of what you see in the picture. ...and yes, it cost me $80 to patch it up but, the exhaust was no longer hanging and bouncing from left to right.

I hope Magnaflow stands behind their warranty. Stay tuned!

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Exhaust/MagnaflowSSMufflersBentExhaustduetoweight.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Exhaust/MagnaflowSSMufflersBracketfailure.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Exhaust/MagnaflowSSMufflersDriverSide.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Exhaust/MagnaflowSSMufflersDriverSide1.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Exhaust/MagnaflowSSMufflersDriverSide2.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Exhaust/MagnaflowSSMufflersPassengerSide3.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Exhaust/MagnaflowSSMufflersPassengerSide4.jpg[/IMG]

I've read about this issue few times on multiple forums. I guess I would invest on rubber lines if I run out of patience.

In my Auto the drive-shaft slides in tight but it does. In my manual, I had to use a BFH and dented the thin part of the frame a bit, worked like a charm.

Looking good

Rest in peace Jim

Quote:

The ones on my 95 are stuck, I was on a hurry because I had a run to Lone Pine so I left it alone and just added new Dexcool and water. One of these days I'll need to use a pipe wrench to get them out. One of these days...

The knock sensors use sealant and torqued.

Quote:

I disputed the credit card charges. Unfortunately, I paid some cash. I've learned from now on for any service I will use my Credit Card even if I have the money.

It's cold up here and I'm waiting to be nice and warm for me to start assembling
parts and torque all to specs.

I started to clean the Batwing and noticed a mark on it. When the Corona Diff Shop
did the crappy hog work the carrier gear was rubbing on the top of the carrier, to my
surprise [B]today[/B] it was also rubbing on the differential cover plate B.K.A. "The Batwing"

I know I wrote this before but, this was a time bomb ready to blow on me. WOW :eek:

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/39049.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/39050.jpg[/IMG]

Quote:


Thanks

[IMG]http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj23/angel-de-guarda/Emoticons/mega-icon-smiley-thumbs-up.jpg[/IMG]

Just returned from pick up the differential.

There is a big difference between a pig farmer and a professional.

This time was fixed at GS Gears in Huntington Beach, CA.



[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/29041.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/29042.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/29043.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/29044.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/29045.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/29046.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/29047.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/29048.jpg[/IMG]

The Differential Shop in Corona can only dream to do it like this. I wonder how many customers they screwed like this.

Visited two Car Shows in Rancho Cucamonga today. Too many pictures, I'm posting the slide show.

enjoy

http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj ... onga/?albumview=slideshow

Many are saying no to the 9th so will do on the 23rd of April.

cool mod

Quote:

You can find them in eBay.

Quote:

Who? How do I contact them?

I got a question

What would be the clearance for the gears and the case? It looks too damn close at the top.



Yes, I knew about the shop in Huntington Beach but, the one in Corona was closer. I wish I would driven there.

Quote:

How you found out?