The pan was pulled this evening and I've got pictures below. Here is what I now know after pulling the pan.

1. Definitely have a HV oil pump.
2. No windage tray was on the block.
3. Pickup seemed placed in appropriate place (center of stock pan, just off the pan floor).
4. Crank bearings are in great shape. No problems there.

Will, I hate to admit it, but I think you are right. Cavitation??

So, what should I do to correct?













If I need a new pan, are these the studs that need to be cut?

I would say, yes, those studs go. But those studs support the OEM windage tray. I would almost try installing that...

But... considering the HV oil pump and the drop in pressure, you are sucking air at some point. I would:

a. update those studs to fitted bolts - no cutting. I would be worried that the heat from cutting would effect their strength.

b. get a good, hi-cap oil pan with flapper doors and all that cool stuff, with an 8 qt capacity.

Yep, looking at a Canton with built in windage tray. Do you have a link or know where I can get 3 fitted bolts?

Thanks for all of the advice folks!! I'm feeling confident this problem has about been verified...

How many QT oil pan are you using.

I have read if you use a 5qt pan a HV oil pump will suck it Dry at high RPM's.

You need to use a larger oil pan with a HV pump.

Stock pan. I believe you are correct... I'm looking at 7 - 8 qt pans right now.

Quote:

I am sure they exist... It might be hard to get just those three bolts tho... damn... Maybe as replacement parts from ARP?

If it were my LT4 (sadly, it's not )....
I'd go with a new stock volume pump, oem tray, and keep the stock pan.

I've always heard that sbc's have very good stock oiling systems, that they do not need HV pumps. Indeed, the HV pumps always seem to cause the problem you're having. That's likely why the windage tray has been removed......having it w/HV just makes the starvation worse.

JMHO

I have a stock pan, a high pressure STANDARD VOLUME pump, a nice windage tray, and no problems at all.

Your problem is your high volume pump and lack of windage tray. As mentioned in another thread, I had the same problem as you on an engine I bought with a stock pump and no windage tray. Don't cut those studs off, install a windage tray on them. Use washers and/or lock washers to get whatever windage tray you buy spaced down so it doesn't contact the crank. You will have no problems at all then (given that you haven't hurt the bearings yet). Cut the oil filter open and make sure there is no bearing material caught in it. If there is, then you must change the bearings while you are in there.

If you are dead set on buying an expensive pan with windage tray in it, then just take a dremel and cut those studs off, won't hurt anything.

Thanks for all of the advice. For this motor, I really would like the extra oil volume, so I'm going with a larger pan. I don't mind spending ~$280 for a Canton.

I got lucky; the bearings are in great shape. No damage to them, so all I need is a new pan, pick-up, and button everything back up. This should fix the problem (I hope)!

Thanks all!

Ok. Now we know what the problem is.

99% of your problem is from the missing windage tray.

My recomendation would be to get a stock windage tray and install it. I personally would re-use the stock pan and that M155 oil pump. This is the cheapest way out.

Of course you can buy a new pump, new pan with an integral tray and solve your problem as well.....

The reason whoever (built that engine) removed the windage tray is because they probally couldn't get it to clear those cap screw rods..... This is the kind of stuff that seperates the engine builders from parts assemblers.....

It's really easy to hammer some dents in the windage tray or shim it down with some washers....

BTW your bottom end consist of - SCAT 9000 Crankshaft, Scat I beam 3/8 cap screw rods and KB hyper pistons.
Will

I like the idea of reinstalling the windage tray.

But part of me likes the extra 3 quarts of oil... the cooling capacity... the extra protection... However, it's all good.

Yep on the Scat and rods. I thought the pistons were Ross? I was a little taken back on the GM caps though..... By the way, DRM (Doug Rippie Motorsports) built the motor for a few owners ago. I'm not sure if either previous owner swapped out anything.

I looked for windage trays and after pricing them out, I'm about convinced to get a Canton with a Canton pick up. The price difference is about $200 (about $150 - $160 if I got a stop volume pump). I know it's more expensive. As Bogus stated and the way this motor revs, I'd like the extra few quarts under the motor. The Canton also has an integrated windage tray. Would this solve the problem?

Thanks to everyone on the advice!! I'm just ready to get this thing back on the road for some spring and summer fun!

I don't know what your pricing to compare the new pan to, for "fixing it" but Moroso has a windage tray that bolts to the factory studs. Moroso PN 23020 and it's only $30.00....

Milodon also has one. Milodon PN 32102 and it's $32.00.

A Melling M155 pump is $30.00

It would only cost about $60 (and a couple of hrs fitting/shimming the tray) to fix it reusing the stock pan and pick up....

Having a bigger pan on it is nice but it's not the only fix.... Of course if you get a new pan you can put whatever oil pump you want in it.

If your dead set on buying a new pan, pick up and oil pump then buy the Melling Select PN 10553 ($85) or the Milodon PN 18755 ($40). They have better housings and billet gears.

Yea, the Canton pan has an integrated windage tray and should also solve your problem.

You will need to shorten those factory main studs for any pan with an integral windage tray...

I don't know what the orginal owner paid for that engine but there is a HUGE difference between Keith Black Pistons and Ross Pistons. Those are definatly KB Hyperutectics....

Unless you were under the assumtion that it was something better, You have nothing to worry about with a stock 4 bolt block.
Will

You all have great comments here !
I would just run the stock pump/ windage tray with the original pan... So lond as bearing clearances are ok.
I wouldnt change or cut existing main cap bolts either.