Maybe photos n fun stuff; move accordingly.

Got them for < $30.

Before - D Side took a few hits here...

cleaned

Flat Black

taped off

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Wet sanded w/ #800; drying.

(GENTLY sand - let the block ride atop the high spots first! )

Easy part over...

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Looks great

sweet!!

I'd go back with the white lettering

NOT going well.

Unable to keep a 'plane' with the block sander, such that tape is leaving horizontal lines in lettering...

Additionally, adhesive is rolling onto lettering surface. Soap was necessary to stop this, and THAT's gonna' be a problem with outlying tape...

This might be futility exercise - calling for adhesive lettering.

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Can't quite get that in my head, You're having trouble keeping the block flat on the lettering?

The tape is leaving lines in the black paint before you paint the white?
Lines at the edge of the tape or where 2 pieces of tape meet?

And what kind of tape are you using?

you may be close to the answer...

instead of cutting letters, cut the vinyl to create the outline to paint the letters.

negative lettering, so to speak.

As you can see, the Masking Tape has not sanded down to a perfect 'plane' (hard to see with remnants of original White; see the tape).

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So you tried to sand the masking tape on the letters off?

First. kudos for trying something like that.
Secondly, you picked a rather hard to do project no matter how it's done.

I do some custom paint/graphics on cars.

I asked about that tape because it looks like regular Masking tape from Home Depot if so, the problems you had with the adhesive aren't surprising. I don't keep any of that tape in my shop and the blue tape at HomeD isn't much better.

Really, the only tape to use on projects like this is automotive masking, it's either green (3M) or orange, sometimes available at Walmart it the auto section. It's designed to not leave adhesive when pulled off.

And, in the pic, the tape is already pulling away in places.

But, as you know, taping these letters would be a bitch due to the rounded ends of the legs.
It would even be very hard to put tape on the letters and cut the tape with an Xacto knife though that's done on some custom work.

Personally, I'd try and hand pint the letters with 1Shot pin striping paint (because it lays down smooth) and a very good pin striping brush.

Where you are at now, I'd just shoot it the way it is now after sealing up the masking tape.

If you are still trying to get the adhesive off , don't use soap. The best would be Goo-Gone on a small rag with your finger and a wipe with plain water. You could also try lacquer thinner on the rag but that's iffy.

BTW, here's some of my custom paint work, probably used a couple thousand feet of masking tape.

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Ok - send a shipping address there Mr. H; take CC payment?

3M Tape - that's one thing I'm doin' wrong here; usin' budget masking tape. (and 3M has done me WELL for many years @ wall street)

I did use 3M masking on the plenum, and it sanded off very neatly, to leave tape in the conCAVE lettering. Can't remember anything conVEX I've done...

The adhesive isn't actually remaining; it's what's rolling up onto bare surface FROM the remaining tape, as I sand further. Wet sanding further, WITH soap, prevents this, but the soap also solves the tape. Soap wouldn't touch it if it was 3M tape. Gonna' try once more therewith...

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Hell, I couldn't stand the frustration.

The standard 3m tape is just OK.

They do make a white automotive refinishing tape (under the Scotch brand).

You can get good automotive at an auto paint supply in your town.


https://www.amazon.com/3M-06652-Automo ... m+automotive+masking+tape

My local Walmart had the green 3m back by the Bondo in the automotive section. Them had switched to Rustoleum (orange) which is good but not as good as 3m, the last time I went in there.

On the cars, you figure that anytime you wet sand, you'll have to retape but the automotive tape will hold up much better than the standard tape.

The plenum looks great.

I go thru a lota tape.

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Need the blast cabinet for my guns.

What kind oscilloscope to right?

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You mean the white one to the right of the glassbead cabinet? Ha! That's a microwave oven.

That's my friend's shop, he has a new private paint booth.

The cabinet in that pic runs $2,200 with the vacuum attachment.

For smaller stuff, the one from Summit Racing or Harbor Freight works fine. I have the Summit, best damn thing I ever put in the shop.

However, the main expense for a blast cabinet is the air compressor.
The minimum you need is a 60 gallon, 3.75 horse (220v)

I looked for 6 months to find a used one and gave up.

I bought a Husky 60 gal at Home D. like this one:
11.5 cfm @ 90 psi

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-60-G ... ompressor-C602H/205389936

It does keep up with my glass bead cabinet, runs air tools, spray guns.

At $490, it's a good investment for a shop. Mine's probably 7 years old and runs great (2ond best thing I bought for my shop). To go a step above this compressor would be at least 4x the price.