|
|
Register To Post |
| sliding | 350 L-98 block questions | ||
|
Senior Guru
 
|
I've got a used L-98 block for free (still have to go and pick it up) and I
still haven't decided if I should use it for my motor build. I have a few questions: 1. Are all L-98 blocks 2 bolt? 2. How hard is it to prepare block for 4-bolt splayed main caps? 4. Would it be better to find 4-bolt block? |
||
Posted on: 2008/2/17 16:16
|
|||
|
_________________
'90 L98 auto with a lot of mods |
|||
 Transfer
|
 
|
||
| MK 82 | RE:350 L-98 block questions | ||
|
Senior Guru
 
|
L98s are two bolt. Any good machine shop can do the 4 bolt mod.
Do you need to do it? Tell us what kind of horsepower you are planning on. |
||
Posted on: 2008/2/17 16:33
|
|||
|
_________________
96 CE Roadster LT4 |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| bogus | RE:350 L-98 block questions | ||
|
Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
 
|
two bolts are surprising strong. It takes a lot of power to overpower them.
Are you going well over 500hp??? then yes, otherwise, na... not worth it. |
||
Posted on: 2008/2/17 17:13
|
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| CFI-EFI | RE:350 L-98 block questions | ||
|
Senior Guru
|
[web]http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showpost.php?p=1564136455&postcount=2[/web]
RACE ON!!! |
||
Posted on: 2008/2/17 17:27
|
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| sliding | RE:350 L-98 block questions | ||
|
Senior Guru
|
Quote:
Do you need to do it? Tell us what kind of horsepower you are planning on. Quote: Are you going well over 500hp??? then yes, otherwise, na... not worth it. I'm still in planning phase. My first thought was to find 400 block and build that, but it seems that finding one could be difficult task. So, I can say that I'll go with 350 block for sure. In a few sentences, here is what I want; I want to build engine that will be rev happy (read 7500 redline). It has to be N/A engine at first, but I'll go with all forged internals and max 10.5:1 CR so maybe later I could add SC. I know that it's high CR for boost but if I ever add SC it won't be more that 6PSI max boost. I would like to get as much as possible out of that engine, so 383 stroker seems good, but I'm not sure how much strokers like high rpms. I know that there are a lot of factors to consider, but I'd like to set my mind about what block and what CI to go with. Please feel free to input all your thoughts and advices. Quote: Changing main caps is a machine shop operation. At the very least the engine has to be line bored when the original main caps are replaced. This is what is bothering me. There are only 2 machine shops in Croatia are able to do line boring, and both have qestionable reputation. |
||
Posted on: 2008/2/18 16:02
|
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| dan0617 | RE:350 L-98 block questions | ||
|
Senior Guru
|
Find a 400 block and destroke it to a 377. I think it is basically a 350 crank in a 400 block. You will have to research rod lengths and deck heights and all, but you would be able to rev way past 7500 if that is what you want. I can't give much advice there because I haven't done it myself but have heard of it being done for high rpm circle track cars. Be careful, most engines that make good power that high tend to lose alot of streetable torque on the low rpm end. You will need really low gears to help make that up. Consider the ultimate use of the car, cam selection and valve train components will be of utmost importance in a pushrod engine revving that high.
If you run a 2 piece rear main seal block in your vette I think you need to buy some sort of adapter to use the stock trans, I'm not sure there either tho because that is something else I haven't done myself. Maybe a search will give you more info on that. |
||
Posted on: 2008/2/18 16:53
|
|||
|
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| Jer | RE:350 L-98 block questions | ||
|
Guru Newb
 
|
Want revs? Buy a sport bike. V8s are about torque. I'd build that 350 into a 383 with a balanced stroker kit. A torquey engine is way more fun on the street than an engine you have to spin way up to get power from.
|
||
Posted on: 2008/2/19 1:02
|
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| CFI-EFI | RE:350 L-98 block questions | ||
|
Senior Guru
|
Quote:
If you run a 2 piece rear main seal block in your vette I think you need to buy some sort of adapter to use the stock trans, I'm not sure there either tho because that is something else I haven't done myself. Maybe a search will give you more info on that. A post on the "other forum" says to convert a 2 bolt block to a splayed 4 bolt, cost him approx $600.00, parts a labor, so it is not an operation to be taken lightly. Converting a factory 4 bolt to splayed would cost even more. Some people toss around the splayed caps suggestion as if it were like changing spark plugs. It ain't. For that kind of money you are about 1/4 to 2/3 the way to an after market Hi PO block, like World, Dart, Bow Tie, etc. And that isn't ALL the machining, just the main caps. RACE ON!!! |
||
Posted on: 2008/2/19 1:19
|
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| dan0617 | RE:350 L-98 block questions | ||
|
Senior Guru
|
Quote:
No! No! No! The different type seal cranks have different crank flange bolt patterns and a different type of balance, but any trans that works with one works with the other. Cool, thanks for the info. That's why I said I wasn't sure. I had heard something was needed but didn't know. So if a complete, assembled, balanced 2 piece rear main seal engine was built or bought, it could be dropped right in place of a 1 piece rear seal engine? Could be a good option for the original poster, and maybe me someday. |
||
Posted on: 2008/2/19 21:48
|
|||
|
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| MK 82 | RE:350 L-98 block questions | ||
|
Senior Guru
|
The flexplate and or flywheel is different.
|
||
Posted on: 2008/2/20 0:42
|
|||
|
_________________
96 CE Roadster LT4 |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| CFI-EFI | RE:350 L-98 block questions | ||
|
Senior Guru
|
:withstupid]The different type seal cranks have different crank flange bolt patterns and a different type of balance[/quote]
Quote: So if a complete, assembled, balanced 2 piece rear main seal engine was built or bought, it could be dropped right in place of a 1 piece rear seal engine? RACE ON!!! |
||
Posted on: 2008/2/20 1:07
|
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| sliding | RE:350 L-98 block questions | ||
|
Senior Guru
|
The block that I can get for free is 1-piece RMS, 2-bolt, pulled from
'91 vette. Since it's for free, I'll take it anyway, and when I transport it to my place, I'll check it's condition. Engine had broken piston top, bent rod and some serious damage to one cylinder head. Is there anything I should especially look out for before starting to put money into this block? |
||
Posted on: 2008/2/20 13:36
|
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| Slalom4me | RE:350 L-98 block questions | ||
|
Guru
 
|
Quote:
Engine had broken piston top, bent rod and some serious damage Errr, maybe look for cracks in the vicinity of the cylinder associated with the broken piston, bent rod and seriously damaged chamber? Pressure testing is one method. I am unsure whether there is any reason why it is not possible to Magnaflux the block - if not, this would be on my list, too. Examine the webs of the main bearing saddles and cam journals, as well as around the cylinder(s). . |
||
Posted on: 2008/2/21 16:06
|
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
You can view topic.
You cannot start a new topic.
You cannot reply to posts.
You cannot edit your posts.
You cannot delete your posts.
You cannot add new polls.
You cannot vote in polls.
You cannot attach files to posts.
You cannot post without approval.
|
|